How could I improve my Sound Gear??

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Ezekiel33

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Hey guys,

First of all, sorry for my english.. I'll try the best I can to be clear and simple.. :p
Secondly I'm not an audiophile expert.. so use words I'll understand please :rolleyes:

My concern is pretty simple in reality....Last year I bought a new computer and equiped it with some nice Passive Monitors + Receiver.. my receiver is going straight to my mother board Realtek ALC889A codec which has support for S/PDIF In/Out
Here are the pieces :

Dayton BR-1 -- http://www.parts-express.com//pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-642

Yamaha HTR-5940 Receiver -- http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/productdetail.html?CNTID=200504

Gigabyte UD4P Mobo -- http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Motherboard/Products_Overview.aspx?ProductID=2986


The question is.. how could I improve my gear.. do I need to buy a new sound card, etc?
thks a lot!
 
Well you can buy new speakers if you want better and the most noticeable improvement.

You don't need to buy a new sound card if you're sending out a digital signal since they will probably sound the same.

What are you using the sound system mainly for?
 
Games and music that's it

Ha okok so it's the receiver that does all the job than? Sound card is important if you have active speakers if I understand... Will changing the receiver for a better one improve the sound?

Well I pretty like my speakers .. sound is rich and for the price it's hard to find better.. Maybe I should only buy a sub to improve low frequencies... I'm not rdy to buy new speakers yet :p
 
Its not the receiver in particular that does all the work, its just the DAC within the receiver.

You can upgrade your gear in pretty much any imaginable regard, but you haven't stated a budget, so, what is your budget? :p

I would say a subwoofer would pose the greatest upgrade.
 
I'm pretty open on prices.. if I ever buy a subwoofer it would be cool if it's a DIY.. I had a pretty good experience with my dayton BR-1 construction project hehe!!

let's say... between... 100$ and 300$ for the upgrade :) will getting a new DAC greatly improve my sound? Ive seen long time ago posts about Fubar and Other little DAC that looked sweet and performant.. can it be an option?
 
It could be an option, but I still think getting a subwoofer first would benefit the upgrade the most. A DIY sub works.

I also agree with aZn_plyR, that even better speakers would a good improvement.
 
I say the speakers are fine and that you should go with a better DAC, internal sound card like an Essence STX or an extrnal option. Thus just using the receiver for management and power.

A sub would be good a good option, but what's the receiver like in regards to bass management? A simple cutoff frequency control?
 
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hehe sounds good I'll have a look for the DIY sub soon than! ;) but If I ever change my speakers I'll need again some passive bookshelf .. I dont want to spend tons of cash on a new sound card .. I already have the receiver so... maybe in couple months I'll buy some very good used speakers from someone.. that could be a good idea.. but for now the subwoofer idea sounds excellent!! Thanks for the advices guys ;)

if you ever have other ideas I'm open :)
 
Rossi~ said:
I say the speakers are fine and that you should go with a better DAC, internal sounds card like an Essence STX or an extrnal option. Thus just using the receiver for management and power.

A sub would be good a good option, but what's the receiver like in regards to bass management? A simple cutoff frequency control?
Click to expand...

oh I could benefit from both the receiver and sound card? Damn I'm confused now lol.. :confused: Is there and external option that can regroup both the receiver and sound card benefits lol?
 
If you get a decent sound card like the Xonar Essence STX that has your DAC sorted. I've been looking at review's on this as i'm looking for a new DAC myself and it's looks like a damn good piece of kit. Most probably better than what a mid range Yamaha receiver can offer.

It will make your set up look like so

Xonar Essence STX ----- Anologue (phono) lead ----> Yamaha Receiver ----> Speakers

Depending on how much the sound card will cost you wherever you live, you may have some pennies to put towards a sub as well.
 
SolidGoldstein said:
Are you staying digital from mobo to receiver? Too lazy to read, sorry. If you are, there is no DAC involved, thus you do not need a better one. A better SPDIF cable might be the cheapest upgrade. Personally I would buy better speakers. A good 6" will have more bass than a crappy 8".
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart&A=details&Q=&sku=407268&is=REG
Click to expand...

I'm not sure to understand what you are saying .. I'm using a s/pdif cable from receiver to mobo so isnt it the Receiver's DAC that does all the job? If I buy a good sound card will it make the sound better? I like my speakers to be honest they sound great and I dont want to spend hundreds on new ones for now :/
 
Rossi~ said:
There's always a DAC involved, unless you have special speakers, ears and brain.
Click to expand...

I think he was talking about getting a better sound card.... but I have no idea what he meant by getting a better digital cable? there should be no audio degradation with digital!

to the OP. You could improve your sound setup by:

1) adding a sub (my recommendation)
2) getting nicer speaker
3) getting better receiver (pointless)
4) move to 5.1 (second recommendation)
5) sound treat your room
6) better speaker wire
7) snake oil
 
jhalf said:
I think he was talking about getting a better sound card.... but I have no idea what he meant by getting a better digital cable? there should be no audio degradation with digital!

to the OP. You could improve your sound setup by:

1) adding a sub (my recommendation)
2) getting nicer speaker
3) getting better receiver (pointless)
4) move to 5.1 (second recommendation)
5) sound treat your room
6) better speaker wire
7) snake oil
Click to expand...

hehe now that's clear and simple thanks for the advice! :)
Jhalf do you think that by buying a soundcard I will optimize my sound?

Im kinda sceptical on the 5.1 setup.. How can I organize this for a computer.. there will be the middle speaker above my screen I guess.. but I dont have a 3rd ear in the forehead lol :( do you have any suggestion to build a good 5.1 system? :)
 
Yes, I just did it, and since your gaming the additional positional audio will help a lot. Also, you don't need an ear on your forehead to notice the difference provided by an expanded sound stage. The sound will be "fuller" to you, and the center channels main job is to provide audio for dialogue and it helps transition sound to the right and left speakers.

You are going to need to save up and build it piece by piece. Since you already have a receiver and two bookshelves, great. That's, what I had to start out with too.

Since your motherboard cannot handle DDL or DTS, needed for 5.1 encoding of games, you will have to by a soundcard that handles this. Obobski is a very nice source of knowledge for recommended cards that will do this.

He recommends the HT Omega Striker, Auzen X-plosion (what I got), X-fi Titanium, or the b-gears b-Enspirer.

I purchased the X-Plosion for 90 dollars, and although it doesn't make anything sound "better" it does provide awesome surround to my receiver through it's optical out.

After you purchase a capable sound card, you will need a sub, 2 more speakers, and a center speaker. The front 2 speakers and center should be matching brand/line of products. I ended up moving the bookshelves I was using as fronts to the rears, and bought a set of Yamaha ns-333's and a yamaha ns-c444 that Obobski recommended and I could not be happier. I also got a cheap Polk Audio Sub that was highly recommended and on sale at amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Monitor-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA

You can find the Yamahas on sale at amazn too. All in all the speakers cost around 350, and the sound card was another 90.

The difference in sound was amazing and I highly recommend taking this route.

How big is your room?
 
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Damnit Jhalf that makes a lot of changes!! but it looks so sweet that I think I'll do it :)

Ok first of all my room is 12f 8" by 9f (4M by 2m77) approx...very small room. Really not sure what to choose from for the sound card so many choices I'll need help there lol :p hmmm I live in Québec so I cant order your Polk Audio 10 inchs it's US shipping only :( I'll have to find another one..It looked sweet and affordable :/ For the speakers I'm using Dayton, so I should buy a Dayton middle speaker that's right?

For the rears I'll have to look carefully the prices here in québec really dont know what to choose from.. damn your gear looks really great! Games must be so much more immersive ;) I tend to listen to a lot of music too. I hope this setting will improve both games and music! ;) thanks again for the advices friend! Let's the journey begin mhehe
 
Alright good choice..

Buy this
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271001&cm_re=ht_omega-_-29-271-001-_-Product

find a nice subwoofer for around a hundred dollars. It doesn't have to be the biggest and the baddest for a smaller room. A little goes a long way here, and will overall compliment and complete your sound stage.

then go to your local electronics store and look at some nice bookshelves. If I were you I would move the Daytons to the rears and get new, nicer fronts and center. Look at Polk Audio or something similar. Try to spend around $150-200 U.S. for fronts and another ~$150 U.S. for the center.

How does that sound?
 
Nice sound card.. but whats the difference between this one and for exemple this one : http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=35724&vpn=XONAR ESSENCE STX&manufacture=ASUS
Ncix canada offer the Omega Striker for 84$ :) sounds affordable

Is there a world between these 2 cards? I'll try to find a nice 10" or 12" sub.. As for the Dayton I think they will be my main.. I mean the sound is amazing seriously... it was a DIY project and they can easily compete with 200-300$ speakers.. lows are deep.. the sound is rich ;) I'll try to find some very good used speakers for the rears I think..

The bad thing is that for the middle Dayton only offer this : http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-674
:(
 
That sound card would be better for stereo imaging and headphone use. You don't need these extra feature when you are using your receiver. Grab that striker deal..

and the reason why I keep saying buy new fronts is because you want the same type of drivers for your fronts and center and it may not be possible to find something that will do that, but of course it is your choice
 
Ezekiel33 said:
Nice sound card.. but whats the difference between this one and for exemple this one : http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=35724&vpn=XONAR ESSENCE STX&manufacture=ASUS
Ncix canada offer the Omega Striker for 84$ :) sounds affordable

Is there a world between these 2 cards?
Click to expand...

If you're going to run 5.1 via a digital connection there isn't much point in using the Xonar Essence as it's mainly the DAC quality that you'd be paying for.
You're wanting to use 5.1 via digital conenction therefor you just need to make sure that the soundcard can send 5.1 to your receiver properly and then the receiver will handle the conversion.
If you were going to stick with 2 channels and upgrade the DAC quality then the Xonar Essence would be a good buy, then you would use a high quality analogue cable to your receiver providing left/right channels.
 
hmm ya I understand.. I'll think about it than. I'll try to find a nice pair of bookshelf + middle all the same brand if I can :)

By getting the striker card I will unlock the DDL and DTS features for the 5.1 right? Things my actual on-board 5.1 cant do is that it? ..

thanks to both of you Jhalf and Rossi! ;)
 
Yep... all set. You will really be surprised at the audio fidelity you will gain.
 
Rossi~ said:
There's always a DAC involved, unless you have special speakers, ears and brain.
Click to expand...

jhalf said:
I think he was talking about getting a better sound card.... but I have no idea what he meant by getting a better digital cable? there should be no audio degradation with digital!
Click to expand...

Rossi~, you think I don't know what I'm talking about? See my post below. I was speaking to your post above mine on the first page which mentioned a soundcard replacement. Since the receiver is doing the Digital to Analog Conver(ting/sion) (DAC), the sound card won't help quality, but it might be good for gaming / surround sound.

Even with digital, the cables are important, but not as important as with analog signals. It becomes more of a problem over long cable lengths. Don't get caught up in the "it's Digital, so it's flawless" ignorance. ;)
 
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Rossi~ said:
I say the speakers are fine and that you should go with a better DAC, internal sound card like an Essence STX or an extrnal option. Thus just using the receiver for management and power.

A sub would be good a good option, but what's the receiver like in regards to bass management? A simple cutoff frequency control?
Click to expand...

Rossi~ said:
If you get a decent sound card like the Xonar Essence STX that has your DAC sorted. I've been looking at review's on this as i'm looking for a new DAC myself and it's looks like a damn good piece of kit. Most probably better than what a mid range Yamaha receiver can offer.

It will make your set up look like so

Xonar Essence STX ----- Anologue (phono) lead ----> Yamaha Receiver ----> Speakers

Depending on how much the sound card will cost you wherever you live, you may have some pennies to put towards a sub as well.
Click to expand...

Rossi~ said:
If you're going to run 5.1 via a digital connection there isn't much point in using the Xonar Essence as it's mainly the DAC quality that you'd be paying for.
You're wanting to use 5.1 via digital conenction therefor you just need to make sure that the soundcard can send 5.1 to your receiver properly and then the receiver will handle the conversion.
If you were going to stick with 2 channels and upgrade the DAC quality then the Xonar Essence would be a good buy, then you would use a high quality analogue cable to your receiver providing left/right channels.
Click to expand...

It took you fools a whole 1.5 pages to say what I said on the first page. You think I don't know what I'm talking about?

I have a $300 "sound card" and custom Mogami cabling with an amp and speakers that can reach 40KHz, all put together by my own hands. And, I have heard pro studio monitors, so I have a good reference.

beat my specs:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/samsontech/related_docs/Servo201a.pdf
Frequency Response ......................... 10 Hz – 20 kHz +0, -0.5 dB
3 Hz – 65 kHz +0, -3.0 dB
Rated Output Power per Channel Stereo (@ 1 kHz)
......................................... 4&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 100 W
......................................... 8&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 65 W
Rated Output Power per Channel Bridge Mono (@ 1 kHz)
......................................... 8&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 200 W
Typical Distortion per Channel ........... THD+N (80 kHz LPF @ 1 kHz
rated output power): 0.01%
......................................... IMD (SMPTE 4:1, 60 Hz & 7
kHz @ rated output power):
0.03%
S/N Ratio ........................................ 22 Hz – 22 kHz bandwidth
@ 1 dB below rated output
power: 105 dB

you 3 need to get a room.
 
SolidGoldstein said:
It took you fools a whole 1.5 pages to say what I said on the first page. You think I don't know what I'm talking about?

I have a $300 "sound card" and custom Mogami cabling with an amp and speakers that can reach 40KHz, all put together by my own hands. And, I have heard pro studio monitors, so I have a good reference.

beat my specs:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/samsontech/related_docs/Servo201a.pdf
Frequency Response ......................... 10 Hz – 20 kHz +0, -0.5 dB
3 Hz – 65 kHz +0, -3.0 dB
Rated Output Power per Channel Stereo (@ 1 kHz)
......................................... 4&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 100 W
......................................... 8&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 65 W
Rated Output Power per Channel Bridge Mono (@ 1 kHz)
......................................... 8&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 200 W
Typical Distortion per Channel ........... THD+N (80 kHz LPF @ 1 kHz
rated output power): 0.01%
......................................... IMD (SMPTE 4:1, 60 Hz & 7
kHz @ rated output power):
0.03%
S/N Ratio ........................................ 22 Hz – 22 kHz bandwidth
@ 1 dB below rated output
power: 105 dB

you 3 need to get a room.
Click to expand...

What do you mean us three?

I jumped on this thread this morning to help the OP out cause he still seemed really lost.

I also don't think anyone here is interested in "beating your specs"
 
SolidGoldstein said:
It took you fools a whole 1.5 pages to say what I said on the first page. You think I don't know what I'm talking about?

I have a $300 "sound card" and custom Mogami cabling with an amp and speakers that can reach 40KHz, all put together by my own hands. And, I have heard pro studio monitors, so I have a good reference.

beat my specs:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/samsontech/related_docs/Servo201a.pdf
Frequency Response ......................... 10 Hz &#8211; 20 kHz +0, -0.5 dB
3 Hz &#8211; 65 kHz +0, -3.0 dB
Rated Output Power per Channel Stereo (@ 1 kHz)
......................................... 4&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 100 W
......................................... 8&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 65 W
Rated Output Power per Channel Bridge Mono (@ 1 kHz)
......................................... 8&#937;, <0.05% THD+N: 200 W
Typical Distortion per Channel ........... THD+N (80 kHz LPF @ 1 kHz
rated output power): 0.01%
......................................... IMD (SMPTE 4:1, 60 Hz & 7
kHz @ rated output power):
0.03%
S/N Ratio ........................................ 22 Hz &#8211; 22 kHz bandwidth
@ 1 dB below rated output
power: 105 dB

you 3 need to get a room.
Click to expand...
Seriously, beat your specs? Are we in elementary school now? Congrats on being able to copy and paste info.

BTW-Put together by your own hands? How exactly do you figure that? You bought off the shelf components and connected the cables, a little modesty goes a long way. Rossi~ was just trying to clarify.
 
65W at ~0.05% THD at 8 ohms?

B&O Class-D modules can put out 600W at 8 ohms, 0.003% THD per channel.
 
You need to learn how they publish specs, and how to read them. The majority of specs are inflated, BS, not representative of actual performance, etc.

My "beat my specs" tease was to make a point. The point was that companies publish specs that are not real, not accurate, not of the actual ranges that matter in the real world, etc as stated above. Most likely, your receiver is by design not capable of performing as well as a stand-alone power amplifier, and people act like their word should be taken like the word of Moses or some other worshiped figure because of what exactly? I value the person who comes up with a better system for less $$$ and more hands-on work than those who buy the most expensive piece they saw in a magazine or wherever. What you have accomplished means much than the way you word things, unless you're an orator.

It was a very simple project, but nonetheless I soldered the cables, and you know... knew what needed to be purchased, unlike most people you meet on the street who don't know what a TRS connector is or why it's superior to phono. I have built audio boxes. It's like the special Olympics here...I gave the solution that you arrived at like how many posts later?? And you still don't even understand how to follow the ideas in the thread - it's all like reacting to anyone who posts - you go off on some tangent that has absolutely nothing to do with the point. We're hear to answer the question and think-tank.

Aastralite - Class D? NO THANKS, and learn to read through marketing BS specs. Do you even know what Class D is? Are you one of those people who just lists off the most expensive product they can think of when people are talking about realistically budgeting for their system? Pffft. Aside from that you have to look at how the product is tested and what the product IS - range, application, etc.
 
skyline889 said:
Seriously, beat your specs? Are we in elementary school now? Congrats on being able to copy and paste info.

BTW-Put together by your own hands? How exactly do you figure that? You bought off the shelf components and connected the cables, a little modesty goes a long way. Rossi~ was just trying to clarify.
Click to expand...

Heh. I love when trolls, who no one was talking to, come into threads and make fools of themselves.
 
Uh, so? THD+N at 1KHz is the industry standard.

Here's the THD+N of a well-designed amplifier. As you can see, THD+N remains at a low level at all frequencies.

chart3.gif


So, nice, your amp measures at 0.05% THD+N at max output at 1KHz! High five!

And I know what Class-D is. Maybe you should start reading up on the spec sheets of the current generation. They are being used in the highest end receivers and amplifiers these days. If you don't know what ICEpower is then I really can't help you. These aren't your 1990s car audio Class-D amps. You talk like you have a Class A amplifier.
 
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SolidGoldstein said:
You need to learn how they publish specs, and how to read them. The majority of specs are inflated, BS, not representative of actual performance, etc.

My "beat my specs" tease was to make a point. The point was that companies publish specs that are not real, not accurate, not of the actual ranges that matter in the real world, etc as stated above. Most likely, your receiver is by design not capable of performing as well as a stand-alone power amplifier, and people act like their word should be taken like the word of Moses or some other worshiped figure because of what exactly? I value the person who comes up with a better system for less $$$ and more hands-on work than those who buy the most expensive piece they saw in a magazine or wherever. What you have accomplished means much than the way you word things, unless you're an orator.

It was a very simple project, but nonetheless I soldered the cables, and you know... knew what needed to be purchased, unlike most people you meet on the street who don't know what a TRS connector is or why it's superior to phono. I have built audio boxes. It's like the special Olympics here...I gave the solution that you arrived at like how many posts later?? And you still don't even understand how to follow the ideas in the thread - it's all like reacting to anyone who posts - you go off on some tangent that has absolutely nothing to do with the point. We're hear to answer the question and think-tank.

Aastralite - Class D? NO THANKS, and learn to read through marketing BS specs. Do you even know what Class D is? Are you one of those people who just lists off the most expensive product they can think of when people are talking about realistically budgeting for their system? Pffft. Aside from that you have to look at how the product is tested and what the product IS - range, application, etc.
Click to expand...

cool_story_bro.jpg
 
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SolidGoldstein said:
You need to learn how they publish specs, and how to read them. The majority of specs are inflated, BS, not representative of actual performance, etc.
Click to expand...

1) Specs are not the word of Moses
2) Specs are inflated, strengthening point #1
3) Actual performance &#8800; Actual sound
 
SolidGoldstein said:
You need to learn how they publish specs, and how to read them. The majority of specs are inflated, BS, not representative of actual performance, etc.
Click to expand...

Anyone with an elementary school education would be able to read a spec sheet and understand it. If it makes you feel special that you can read a graph and fine print that's your prerogative, just don't expect the rest of us to pat you on the back for being able to do so.
SolidGoldstein said:
My "beat my specs" tease was to make a point. The point was that companies publish specs that are not real, not accurate, not of the actual ranges that matter in the real world, etc as stated above. Most likely, your receiver is by design not capable of performing as well as a stand-alone power amplifier, and people act like their word should be taken like the word of Moses or some other worshiped figure because of what exactly? I value the person who comes up with a better system for less $$$ and more hands-on work than those who buy the most expensive piece they saw in a magazine or wherever. What you have accomplished means much than the way you word things, unless you're an orator.

It was a very simple project, but nonetheless I soldered the cables, and you know... knew what needed to be purchased, unlike most people you meet on the street who don't know what a TRS connector is or why it's superior to phono. I have built audio boxes. It's like the special Olympics here...I gave the solution that you arrived at like how many posts later?? And you still don't even understand how to follow the ideas in the thread - it's all like reacting to anyone who posts - you go off on some tangent that has absolutely nothing to do with the point. We're hear to answer the question and think-tank.
Click to expand...

Wow, you know what a TRS connector is?? That's great man. Really, your wealth of knowledge amazes me.

Soldering cables is quite possibly the easiest DIY task one can undertake. Even complete noobs, with absolutely no experience, can learn how to solder a basic audio cable off an online tutorial, just look at the DIY forum at Head-Fi. I'm sure your parents are real proud of you but you might want to keep "accomplishments" like that to yourself. Learn how to read a schematic, build an amp, then get back to me.

And you did not "give a solution" so many posts back . You couldn't even communicate the simple fact that the OP would indeed need a DAC and that the task would just be handled by the receiver and not the sound card.

Keep digging that hole bud. It's highly enjoyable for the rest of us.

SolidGoldstein said:
Aastralite - Class D? NO THANKS, and learn to read through marketing BS specs. Do you even know what Class D is? Are you one of those people who just lists off the most expensive product they can think of when people are talking about realistically budgeting for their system? Pffft. Aside from that you have to look at how the product is tested and what the product IS - range, application, etc.
Click to expand...

Do you even know what Class D is? It's certainly not the most expensive method of amplification. Compare the cost of a 250w or 500w Class A amplifier to the cost of a 250w or 500w Class A or even a good Class A/B amplifier, unless you're an idiot and buying for a name like Jeff Rowland or Bel Canto, Class D is a cheap way to get massive, massive power. B&Os ICEpower modules are used in some of the most popular Class D amps and since they are basically plug and play units, the modules in even the basest amplifiers perform the same as the top echelon amplifiers using the same ICEpower module. Anyways, real "audio snobs" won't even be caught dead with Class-D amplifiers so you clearly don't know what you're talking about.
SolidGoldstein said:
Heh. I love when trolls, who no one was talking to, come into threads and make fools of themselves.
Click to expand...
It's great that you're able to describe yourself in such a succinct manner.
 
Man.... you guys are amazing... I'm not the type to act like forums are beneath me, but this experience has got me considering it.

Using "DAC" implies a standalone converter. This guy is on a budget... which I don't think he even specified yet.

Empty_Quarter said:
1) Specs are not the word of Moses
2) Specs are inflated, strengthening point #1
3) Actual performance &#8800; Actual sound
Click to expand...

What I said already.
Not ALL specs are inflated. None of you looked at the PDFs so you're running off of delusional, baseless preconceived notions.
Performance in audio equipment = sound quality. That's what it's all about. The only thing is, it's subjective sometimes.

astrallite said:
So, nice, your amp measures at 0.05% THD+N at max output at 1KHz! High five!

You talk like you have a Class A amplifier.
Click to expand...

Which is better than your 5%...

And, I have built amplifiers before. And, I do own Class A tube amps. And, once again you twisted clowns are missing the fact that I know that Class D is not high end. The B&O chip is new, high-end Class D. Who's going to seriously compare a $250 Class A/B amp to a $800 Class D amp??? You are out of your head!

Skyline, seriously dude, the words you use are FAR TOO large for your ideas. The bottom line with what you say is no more than immature drivel. You don't get it. So far you've shown the complete inability to understand. You don't understand why I mentioned the cables - No, not because I soldered my cables...with a cleaner and shinier joint than you, no doubt... but because I don't need to explain every minutia I learned 15 years ago. So far, your best ideas - stripped down the core - are that "more power is better", apparently I'm trying to impress you with soldering my cables, and that I'm talking about myself when I say troll. Do you have ADD? How old are you? I mean mentally. I bet you hear that "keep digging that hole" a lot in real life.

Amazing. It's just offensive how stupid some people are. I say cable you think sound card? How does that weird form of dyslexia happen? Then, the guy has cheap speakers and someone suggests a sub? Wow that's genius! I need to remember not to get involved with people with terrible taste and lack of discernment.
 
Yeah, Jhalf, you three are like in your own little world or something... You know when you see kids at the store talking all weird like little girlfriends... clearly not in the world the rest of us are a part of.
 
aZn_plyR - right on Broski... keep on douche-in it up brah... how's the body kit on your Acura Integra / Honda Civic? LOL
 
SolidGoldstein said:
Man.... you guys are amazing... I'm not the type to act like forums are beneath me, but this experience has got me considering it.

Using "DAC" implies a standalone converter. This guy is on a budget... which I don't think he even specified yet.



What I said already.
Not ALL specs are inflated. None of you looked at the PDFs so you're running off of delusional, baseless preconceived notions.
Performance in audio equipment = sound quality. That's what it's all about. The only thing is, it's subjective sometimes.



Which is better than your 5%...

And, I have built amplifiers before. And, I do own Class A tube amps. And, once again you twisted clowns are missing the fact that I know that Class D is not high end. The B&O chip is new, high-end Class D. Who's going to seriously compare a $250 Class A/B amp to a $800 Class D amp??? You are out of your head!

Skyline, seriously dude, the words you use are FAR TOO large for your ideas. The bottom line with what you say is no more than immature drivel. You don't get it. So far you've shown the complete inability to understand. You don't understand why I mentioned the cables - No, not because I soldered my cables...with a cleaner and shinier joint than you, no doubt... but because I don't need to explain every minutia I learned 15 years ago. So far, your best ideas - stripped down the core - are that "more power is better", apparently I'm trying to impress you with soldering my cables, and that I'm talking about myself when I say troll. Do you have ADD? How old are you? I mean mentally. I bet you hear that "keep digging that hole" a lot in real life.

Amazing. It's just offensive how stupid some people are. I say cable you think sound card? How does that weird form of dyslexia happen? Then, the guy has cheap speakers and someone suggests a sub? Wow that's genius! I need to remember not to get involved with people with terrible taste and lack of discernment.
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You are too funny. Thank you for your valuable contributions to this thread.
 
SolidGoldstein said:
Yeah, Jhalf, you three are like in your own little world or something... You know when you see kids at the store talking all weird like little girlfriends... clearly not in the world the rest of us are a part of.
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In all seriousness, did you get drunk and necro troll this thread? I was never even in your little debate. I was just trying to help the OP with some advice.
 
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