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Help with Leaktest!

U

Ubermouser

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
255
I cant get the bloody thing to stop leaking. It'll sit perfectly fine for ~12 hours and then suddenly gush out a few drops. it annoys me to no end.. Here's a pic to keep you happy. The computer has been leaktesting since Thursday night.
537593598_img_1426.jpg


How can I resolve these leaks? Please help..

**things I've done so far:
Coated all connections with plumber's grease
Tightened all the plastic clamps with a steel C clamp
Tightened all barb connections (already coated with plumber's grease)
 
the second radiator to the lower right - the Black Ice Micro 2x80mm. Right barb. (last time is was the left barb.)
1368646815_IMG_1424.jpg
 
I assume that they are NPT threads???

If so, they are notorius for either being screwed in too loose or too tight. The result either way are leaks. FWIW, I recently got an Apex kit, and Swiftech preinstalled the barbs with what appears to be clear silicone sealant.

So... Perhaps you might want to drain, unscrew the fittings, and silly-cone 'em in!;)

I have a Chilid fish tank. Lot of fancy filter stuff, with lots of NPT fittings. Nasty things!

Jim
 
First of all, those clamps you are using never worked for me. Always leaked 'til I swapped them out for some metal clamps. Be careful with metal clamps as it is possible to have them cut your tubing when overtightened.

Also, I have found that plastic barbs (my danger den radiator came with them) are much more prone to leaking than metal.

That's just my two cents
 
no plastic barbs except for those on the reservoir, which hasn't leaked at all so I'm not dissapointed. I'm also suprised you think the device could leak if it were screwed on too tight... :eek:

I've been using ZIP TIES and Silicone grease before and have had no leaks.. (danger den v4, 350gph, 5psi). The difference being with this setup the maximum theoretical PSI is 22. (Danger Den DDC-12V) and the tubing is 3/8 inch. instead of 1/2.

I've had no leaks since that last outburst and have subsequently monkeyfisted the barb onto the radiator, but untill I've tested it for 36 hours mounted as it would in operation, I wont flick that power switch.
 
I would just use teflon tape on those threads and switch to metal hose clamps while I was at it...Silicon might work, but it might not be easy to remove the barbs in the future and silicon takes at least 24hrs to fully cure. The cure time might also be a bit longer because it's sealed between the threads.
 
Just use teflon tape on the threads and it should seal. I really dislike the plastic barbs that DangerDen includes with their radiators. I need to get some brass barbs to go with my PA160 because I also had problems with it leaking, even with teflon tape on the threads....first time I have ever had a leak.
 
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