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Help me hit 250FSB!

N

nst6563

2[H]4U
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
4,023
Just got a 3.0c yesterday. Unfortunately, it's the SL6WK and not the ever so easily overclockable SL6WU.

Currently I can run it at 247fsb and hit 3.7Ghz and be perfectly stable (I can run 3dmark loops, aquamark, I've played BF:V for about 4 hours last night also). Temps never get above 38c.

I have some shit sticks of Geil ram (although, they do run at their specs...so I guess I can't bitch too much). Have to run them at Cas 2.5, 4-4-7 ...even at 3.2v. But that's what they're rated for. So if I can get 250fsb at their spec'd settings then I'd be happy.

My cpu voltage is about 1.6v-1.67v (Thank you Asus for the nice fluctuating Overvolt feature), althought it's set to 1.55v in Bios.

My Ram timings are as relaxed as they can get.
CPU voltage is about as high as I want to go with it since this Asus board fluctuates so much I never know if it will be in the 1.7v area.

I have raised the AGP voltage to 1.7v. I haven't tried 1.8v yet though.

Any thoughts? Suggestions??? I'm -SO- close to that magic 250fsb mark it hurts.

considering the SL6WK I got, I should be happy from what I hear. Most people can only squeeze about 3.4 out of these chips and that's with more voltage than I'm putting to it.

thanks in advance.
 
Try running your ram @ 5:4 divider and see what it does, try running 1.7V+ to the vcore. You're going to get into a danger zone if you want the magic 250FSB on a 3.0C chip.
 
The only reason I want to stay away from 1.7v+ on the chip is to avoid SNDS (and it would be a while before I could replace it).

the 5:4 divider didn't do anything for it, so it's the cpu running out of steam before the ram (ram is rated for at least 250Mzh anyway...if it didn't make it there, I'd RMA the stuff).

I was just hoping for some "magic" words of wisdom that I haven't tried already to squeeze out the other 3fsb I need to hit 250fsb.

I'll try upping the Vagp to 1.8 when I get home and trying again. If all else fails, I guess I could *settle* for 3.7Ghz on Air from a 3.0c...:rolleyes:
 
btw, if anyone is running a P4P800-d over 200fsb and DOESN'T have the full PAT mod...they really NEED IT! It kicks ass. There is a noticeable difference in the "feel" of the quickness the board has. Really cranks the speed of the NB too from what I understand.
 
Raising the Vagp will not help you achieve 250FSB, all that does is supply more voltage to your agp slot. :rolleyes: Your going to have to go 1.7V or higher to get your 250FSB. It wont magically appear, I run 1.725 everyday and have had for 3 months now. I know a guy who ran 1.8V for over a year on his 1.6a @ 2.8. I also ran a p4m 1.7 @ 1.775 12 x 217. It's all a matter of how you much guts you have.
 
damn. I may try it. It's just too tempting for 250fsb on a 3.0c...especially a SL6WK. I don't think it'd be a problem with the SL6WU.

I'll try to up it tonight and see what happens. I read somewhere that the Vagp also was used for the chipset voltage. I figured that maybe it's my chipset that could be holding me back.
 
maybe some active cooling on the northbridge. Although the stock heatsink looks mighty beefy. But you never know, maybe the board is crapping out before the CPU
 
I'm not quite sure what to make of it. I'm only 3Mhz shy of 250fsb. However, as soon as I hit 250, BOOM, won't load windows 50% of the time, the other 50% windows will load, but crashes before you can open much of anything.

I've tried voltage up to 1.75v, no go so I backed it back down to the 1.6v I was running before. I still haven't tried upping the Vagp to 1.8v, it's still at 1.6 or 1.7v. Running the ram slower doesn't make a difference. And true, the NB is passively cooled right now. If I have some time tomorrow night I may remedy that with an extra fan.

Another interesting fact I just came to realize is that at my current 247fsb, the sound crackles in BF:V. However, if I back it down to 240 or 245 the sound is fine. Almost like the PCI bus isn't being locked at the 33/66 in Bios (it's set as locked in Bios).
 
about the sound: i believe the lock on canterwoods doesn't go away until you hit 300fsb or so. although my asus board (nf2 though) has crackly sound even at stock speeds (shudder) i think asus may just use a crappy codec.

on to the oc: better cooling may help (cpu as well as nb, i think asus boards read tetmps low) and a better psu would probably do a world of good as well. what's your current psu?
 
my current one is an Antec Smartpower 350. I tried my Enermax 450 here just for kicks (after reading your post) but didn't see any improvement. All the fans except the CPU fan are run from a seperate PS (I think it's like 50-80w or something...really small, it fit on TOP the Antec PS in that little space between the Antec PS and the case). Got it from inside an External drive enclosure. Just perfect to run the fans off of.

Thanks for the suggestions...keep them coming...hopefully I'll figure out what's holding back my 3 measely MHZ!!!! If all else fails, I guess 245fsb is decent enough :rolleyes:
 
If your getting sound distortion, that is a southbridge overheating issue, I suggest replacing your NB with the Intel Thermalright NB HSF, and moving your NB HSF to the SB and there by active cooling both. Also remove hte little pink tap and use some as5 on the NB. Starting to sound more like a heat issue. But my buddy Merlin here on the forums had the same problem.
 
Originally posted by nst6563
btw, if anyone is running a P4P800-d over 200fsb and DOESN'T have the full PAT mod...they really NEED IT! It kicks ass. There is a noticeable difference in the "feel" of the quickness the board has. Really cranks the speed of the NB too from what I understand.
Click to expand...

can you elaborate on this? i have a P4P800 deluxe running at 270fsb right now,
 
it's a little complicate to explain myself, but actually *VERY* simple.

What is done, is the bios from the P4P8X is flashed to the P4P800-d over-writting the bootstrap.

Then, you flash the p4p800-d bios but DON'T overwrite the bootstrap from the P4P8X bios.

You must use an old version of AFUDOS. Windows flashing or new version of AFUDOS don't work.

BigToe originally came up with the hack. Here is the link to his thread on ABXZone

follow the instructions to the T. I used the newest bios for the p4p8x, and bios 1016final for the p4p800-d. I do indeed have PAT enabled at 200+ fsb. The board "feels" quicker and more responsive - but that could be perception - and scores higher in benches (memory of course).
 
Originally posted by eViL_M@LuM
If your getting sound distortion, that is a southbridge overheating issue, I suggest replacing your NB with the Intel Thermalright NB HSF, and moving your NB HSF to the SB and there by active cooling both. Also remove hte little pink tap and use some as5 on the NB. Starting to sound more like a heat issue. But my buddy Merlin here on the forums had the same problem.
Click to expand...

I'll try that when I get home today then :)

I really hope it is heat with the NB/SB. That's something I can solve without too much hassle. I was messing around in there this morning before work and did touch the NB while the machine was booting. It did get quite warm...almost downright hot really. I've got a PIII heatsink here I can mod that should do the trick, then move the NB to the SB and replace the thermal paste (gonna have to buy some more as5 soon :rolleyes: )



Plur: - I don't think so. There are lots of 3.0C's that are hitting 3.8 on air - stock hsf too (of course, they are all the new SL6WU's). I had my 2.4B running at 3.3 on air. The near-1Ghz overclocks don't all have to be gotten with water/prommies.:D
 
Originally posted by nst6563
I'll try that when I get home today then :)


Plur: - I don't think so. There are lots of 3.0C's that are hitting 3.8 on air - stock hsf too (of course, they are all the new SL6WU's). I had my 2.4B running at 3.3 on air. The near-1Ghz overclocks don't all have to be gotten with water/prommies.:D
Click to expand...

I've not had the same good fortune as yourself with P4s :(
My 2.4B would only do 2.88 prime stable, my 2.6C did 3.2 and my 2.8C doesnt do much better. SLK900U/delta 80mm/IC7MAX3 etc etc. Could all be down to my PSU I guess but I've lost interest in it now since I started driving :)
 
Originally posted by plur
I've not had the same good fortune as yourself with P4s :(
My 2.4B would only do 2.88 prime stable, my 2.6C did 3.2 and my 2.8C doesnt do much better. SLK900U/delta 80mm/IC7MAX3 etc etc. Could all be down to my PSU I guess but I've lost interest in it now since I started driving :)
Click to expand...

haha, yes,....Luck does have a lot to do with it. Unfortunately, my overclocking is the only good luck I have I guess...:rolleyes:


I've been driving for long enough that I almost prefer not to now :p
 
Originally posted by Kolya
Anyone else have good luck with the full PAT mod for our boards?
Click to expand...

Most of the people I've seen in threads try it have had very good results. Some people report that they lost a few MHz on the o/c, but I haven't. I was running 245fsb before the mod, and I'm running 245fsb after the mod. PAT enabled and Turbo mode on.


(yes I've tried disabling PAT and Turbo to get 250fsb also. I'd rather have PAT and Turbo enabled than to have 3-5 more MHz on the fsb)
 
What is the max fsb that you were hitting before the volt mods?
My board refuses to go above 225fsb. :( 2.5-4-4-8
I can go 1.675 on voltage but @ 1.70 it restarts. 226fsb it restarts.
But - I can set it on turbo, set timings to 2-2-2-5 and select 20% and the damn thing runs 3.6GHz 24/7!?? :confused:

The brown truck brought me a True Control 550w today, will that do it or do I still need to droop mod this P4C800 E Dlx?

3.0c
P4C800 E Dlx
Corsair XMS Twin 1G 3200LLPT 400mhz
Antec 350 Smart Power 350w

Sorry to crash your thread... :eek:
 
well, before the mods, I had a 2.4B that I was running at 3.3Ghz on default voltage. I was originally only able to run it at 3.2 (175fsb) totally stable, I could run up to 185 with intermittent crashes during load. After doing the droop mod, it kept the voltage fluctuations to a minimum and I was able to run at 185fsb stable.

The ONLY thing the droop mod will get you is stable voltage. If you can run at a higher fsb but it crashes under load, then chances are you will benefit from the droop mod.
Asus boards (and I think others do to) drop the cpu voltage when it's under load. This is in the Intel Spec sheet, and I assume it's to aid in thermal control.

That's odd on the 20% deal. I'll try that just for grins to see what happens.

I'm still thinking of swapping this 350w Antec for my 450w Enermax. I don't think it will gain me anything (but a more powerful psu) but I'm just grasping at straws now.
 
Originally posted by nst6563
haha, yes,....Luck does have a lot to do with it. Unfortunately, my overclocking is the only good luck I have I guess...:rolleyes:


I've been driving for long enough that I almost prefer not to now :p
Click to expand...

yea driving does get boring...i was all hyped up about it, upgraded my car stereo subs amps, the whole shebang...now im bored with it...comps seem much more interesting now... btw i've only been driving 2 years. hahaha
 
well, it doesn't seem that I'm gonna get 250fsb from this chip. The most I can get is 240 perfectly stable. 245 is -OK-, but depending on the game I get sudden reboots.

So, I guess 3.6Ghz from a 3.0C that's NOT an SL6WU stepping is pretty good.

thanks for all the suggestions though. I now know some things I hadn't thought of before :)
 
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