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Help, I gotta Leak

M

magoo

[H]F Junkie
2FA
Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
14,697
Ok, here's the deal.
All this is brandee new.
All Swiftech stuff, 3/8" tubing and fittings, nothing exotic.
Loop: Radiator(dual 120mm with reservoir)>MicroRes>pump (Swiftech 350)>CPU(Apogee GTX)>DangerDen 8800 GPU cooler>radiator.

I have a slow leak at the fillport cap of the Radiator, its on tight with a gasket,the reservoirs are not full (actually about 2/3 full) and the loop is intact. No kinks ot bends.

I leak tested the loop for 24 hours before using it for computing and it was fine. Under normal computing and gaming the fill cap leaks. If I take the cap off it doesnt leak at all.
All my temps are great under stress.

What gives???? arrrrrrgh. Is it me or a faulty cap?
 
Is the reservoir cap on top or upside down ?

Also, since you have a Apogee GTX, make sure you have a anticorrosion additive in the fluid or you use HydrX due to the aluminium top.

 
I just resolved several very-slight, but nevertheless troublesome leaks during my testing phase. I was getting a slow seepage from the intake barb on my Fuzion, and a consistent leak from my MCRES MICRO whenever the pump was shut off.

Turns out the that the D-Tek leak was due to the pre-assembled barbs not being tightened correctly. The O-Rings didn't compress properly, and all it took to fix was a wrench to re-tighten the barbs. The MCRES MICRO was caused by a silly, newbish error on my part -- I left the fillport cap on while bleeding, which apparently caused pressure to build up causing the leak. A simple bleed with the cap off stopped the leak.

My suggestion is to make sure that there isn't a build up of air pressure anywhere in the system, and that all of your barbs are tightened properly. What I learned was to finger-tighten each barb until the o-ring compresses, then do a 1/4 turn with a wrench. Unfortunately I don't know the layout of the res/radiator combo, so I can't say if there is any specific problem with the fill port.

Also, what sort of clamps are you using between the tube and the barb?
 
Markyip1 said:
I just resolved several very-slight, but nevertheless troublesome leaks during my testing phase. I was getting a slow seepage from the intake barb on my Fuzion, and a consistent leak from my MCRES MICRO whenever the pump was shut off.

Turns out the that the D-Tek leak was due to the pre-assembled barbs not being tightened correctly. The O-Rings didn't compress properly, and all it took to fix was a wrench to re-tighten the barbs. The MCRES MICRO was caused by a silly, newbish error on my part -- I left the fillport cap on while bleeding, which apparently caused pressure to build up causing the leak. A simple bleed with the cap off stopped the leak.

My suggestion is to make sure that there isn't a build up of air pressure anywhere in the system, and that all of your barbs are tightened properly. What I learned was to finger-tighten each barb until the o-ring compresses, then do a 1/4 turn with a wrench. Unfortunately I don't know the layout of the res/radiator combo, so I can't say if there is any specific problem with the fill port.

Also, what sort of clamps are you using between the tube and the barb?
Click to expand...

Yes, had the same issue with another MCRES (was defective but leaked only when the fill cap is screwed). You must bleed with the cap removed till it's free from air then put the cap back.

 
Thanks.
The fill port is on top.
I bled the system via the reservoir(s) during the leak testing phase.
My connections are all secured with those re-useable plastic ratchet clamp deals, the ones Swiftech includes with all their kits. They were/are all brand new-never used clamps.

I also check all my barbs before placing tubing and generally also tighten the barbs with a socket wrench.

I use Hydr-x in my loop, always have. The green color is easy to spot if you have a leak.

I think what I'm going to do is remove the fill port from the Micro-Res and let the system run normally for a while to see if there is any air left behind. I've bled out the system twice already so i cant see that as a problem, BUT there has to be some pressure problem here due to the leak, a screw cap with a gasket just shouldn't leak.:(
 
Got an email from Gabe at Swiftech.....
the thing is not supposed to leak under any circumstance......
I removed some coolant and bled the system last night and it still leaks.BAHHHHHHH.

RMA.
 
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