Hardware needed to mount A.C. Ryan Radgrillz?

I was wondering this myself. From what I've seen it doesn't look as if they provide anything other than the grill and template.
 
You need:

Holes. Large ones. Small ones.

screws - you can use machine screws and nuts, or hex head cap screws and nuts.

The smaller holes are just right for #6 machine screws/cap screws, and the larger ones are just right for #8.

I purchased stainless steel socket head cap screws and stainless steel nuts to match them for the mounting. (8/32)

I got my stuff ultra cheap from www.boltdepot.com
 
mwarps said:
You need:

Holes. Large ones. Small ones.

screws - you can use machine screws and nuts, or hex head cap screws and nuts.

The smaller holes are just right for #6 machine screws/cap screws, and the larger ones are just right for #8.

I purchased stainless steel socket head cap screws and stainless steel nuts to match them for the mounting. (8/32)

I got my stuff ultra cheap from www.boltdepot.com
Click to expand...

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not familiar with the numbering systems of tools, etc.

What do you mean by "#6" and "#8"?
 
Cool site. Bookmarked.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Machine-Screws/Machine-Screw-Diameter.aspx specifically shows the size realationship.
What’s up with so many ways to indicate the size of something. Numbers, letters, decimals, fractional, gauge, caliber…
The material doesn’t look thick enough to countersink, but countersunk holes would make the cleanest look. Then you could use regular fan screws at the fan hole location. The countersink depth would be critical. Deep enough to be flush, but not too deep to expose the colored anadized coating. Dimpling the countersink would be better on thin material, but then you need a countersink underneath for the dimple to fit inside of, but that process after the fact would likely damage to anadized coating.
 
unless you are getting specific hardware for use in countersinking, you don't want to countersink. countersunk holes look clean on wood. they do not look clean with radgrillz and aluminum, and the radgrill is FAR too thin to countersink meaningfully anyway.
 
Meaningfully? It depends on the results you are after. Yes it’s an extra effort. Countersinking the hole on thin material will oversize the hole, but so what. It’s not the space shuttle. Look at the radgrills gallery and you can see where countersunk screws were installed without countersinking the holes. Looks bad. Look at all the ones with protruding screws. Nat as bad, but not a smooth professional clean look either. Countersinking aluminum is no harder then wood. Just go very lightly to remove the right amount of material from the top edge and you are golden. Countersinking bits are not that hard to find, and I’ve even simply used a larger drill bit before. It doesn’t have to be air-worthy. Just be gentle and work your way up to the right size/depth.
While harder to pull off, dimpling doesn’t have to be hard either if you have the right something underneath the material for the female die. I’ve used a countersunk screw itself for the male. Hammer-punch-screw on top, support on the bottom. Again, the problem with a dimple is the need for the material underneath to be countersunk or dimpled.
 
delbert said:
Meaningfully? It depends on the results you are after. Yes it’s an extra effort. Countersinking the hole on thin material will oversize the hole, but so what. It’s not the space shuttle. Look at the radgrills gallery and you can see where countersunk screws were installed without countersinking the holes. Looks bad. Look at all the ones with protruding screws. Nat as bad, but not a smooth professional clean look either. Countersinking aluminum is no harder then wood. Just go very lightly to remove the right amount of material from the top edge and you are golden. Countersinking bits are not that hard to find, and I’ve even simply used a larger drill bit before. It doesn’t have to be air-worthy. Just be gentle and work your way up to the right size/depth.
While harder to pull off, dimpling doesn’t have to be hard either if you have the right something underneath the material for the female die. I’ve used a countersunk screw itself for the male. Hammer-punch-screw on top, support on the bottom. Again, the problem with a dimple is the need for the material underneath to be countersunk or dimpled.
Click to expand...

What would you recommend I do if I'm not familiar with anything you're discussing? I'm not even approaching mechanically inclined.
 
Take your grill to a local hardware store and find screws of proper length that fit the holes.
 
When they are this size they are typically referred to as screws. You can call them small bolts if you wish. You will need nuts for the screws. Washers are always a good thing to put under the nut. Lockwashers between the flat washer and nut even better.
 
delbert said:
When they are this size they are typically referred to as screws. You can call them small bolts if you wish. You will need nuts for the screws. Washers are always a good thing to put under the nut. Lockwashers between the flat washer and nut even better.
Click to expand...

So it should go:
screw --> radgrill --> case --> flat washer --> lockwasher --> nut?

Should I use nylon washers, metal?
 
screw --> radgrill --> case --> flat washer --> lockwasher --> nut?
Click to expand...
Sounds good..
They also make locknuts which would makeup the lockwasher and nut. Look at the boltdepot link above or the guy in the hardware isle will show you.
Not sure why you would need a nylon washer, but if you use a nylon washer dont use a lockwasher. They are meant more for a metal to metal interface.
 
delbert said:
Sounds good..
They also make locknuts which would makeup the lockwasher and nut. Look at the boltdepot link above or the guy in the hardware isle will show you.
Not sure why you would need a nylon washer, but if you use a nylon washer dont use a lockwasher. They are meant more for a metal to metal interface.
Click to expand...

Alright, so the flat washer should be metal?

Like I said, I don't know a whole lot about stuff like this. I knew there were nylon washers, so I figured I would ask if that's what I wanted.
 
OP, best bet is a socket head cap screw and a nut. You don't need a washer or a lockwasher, you're not building a robot here. Nylocks (nylon insert locknut) are nice, but not required for a radiator. My last radiator stayed screwed in tight for 4 years.

The proper size is 8/32

The 4 mounting holes in the corners - You should be fine with the 3/8 length one:
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=13&cs=71&cm=6&cd=1209
Nuts for the 4 - again, you want the nuts for 8/32:
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=7&cs=59&cm=6

I believe the 8/32 socket head cap screw requires a 9/64 allen driver.
 
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