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H8QGL VRM Locations?

plext0r

[H]ard DCOTM x3
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
780
I'm wondering if someone could highlight in this picture exactly where the VRMs are located. I've seen a few pictures (Harbringer, etc) but I'm not certain exactly how many heatsinks to purchase and where to place them. I seem to remember someone told me 36 heatsinks are required. Also, why is Enzotech MOS-C1 out of stock everywhere I check?

Thanks!

 
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MOS-C10 also work, I got 1 pack of ten and it covered the VRMs on 2 CPU slots on my Gi board. So 3 packs of ten each would do for a GL. You do have to remove the stock aluminium heatsinks but they are usless anyway.
 
You do have to remove the stock aluminium heatsinks but they are usless anyway.

The heatsinks are fine, it is the crappy thermal pads that SM uses is the problem. Add real thermal paste and apply a little more tension with the aluminium heatsinks and things are good.
 
The heatsinks are fine, it is the crappy thermal pads that SM uses is the problem. Add real thermal paste and apply a little more tension with the aluminium heatsinks and things are good.

Enzotech Copper ones will be better at cooler then the aluminium ones. The Enzotech ones have a better design as well.
 
Guys, I updated the picture. If you look at all the devices in the blue circles above, which ones are supposed to have the MOS-C1 or other copper heatsinks? I didn't realize some folks were removing the existing aluminum heatsinks. I thought people were putting 30+ 6mm x 6mm heatsinks on all the little VRMs. Thanks.
 
Guys, I updated the picture. If you look at all the devices in the blue circles above, which ones are supposed to have the MOS-C1 or other copper heatsinks? I didn't realize some folks were removing the existing aluminum heatsinks. I thought people were putting 30+ 6mm x 6mm heatsinks on all the little VRMs. Thanks.

zanol.png

Areas in red, some are under the aluminium heatsinks.

it looks like MOS-C1 has been discontinued so you might want MOS-C10, but yo use MOS-C10 you need to take the aluminium heatsinks off as MOS-C10 are bigger then MOS-C1 and won't fit with the aluminium heatsinks still on.
 
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This is kinda GL specific, but the concept could apply to any MB. In the photo a couple posts above, where the two CPUs are close to each other, my VRMs were getting up to 97C as measured with an IR probe room temp 20C, although this varied quite a bit, say 15C along this row. As the VRMs on the other side were only hitting 55-60C, I deduced that this variation might be down to airflow, or lack thereof.

Note that I am using NH-U12DO A3 heatsinks with Gentle Typhoons @ 5400 rpm on the two close CPUs. These are loud and push a shed load of air. I noted that the amount of air coming off the top and sides was non-trivial, so figured if I move the fan down the heatsink so there is only a 1-2mm gap to the RAM, I'll get more flow below the HSF and thus to the VRMs. Lo and behold a result for 5 mins of work, temps on the VRMs dropped by 7-20C. In order to maximise this advantage before summer rolls around, I've ordered some MOS-C1 to increase the advantage.

Photo%252010-03-2013%252011%252056%252051.jpg
 
Use some fans too to blow air across the board. I mounted my boards on 1.5" stand offs and then put some pwm fans on there.
 
I bought two packs of the BMR-C1's (16 total) and I used 15 of them. CPU 1 has little capacitors between the VRMs which meant I needed to cut two of the BMR's into 2/5 and 3/5 sections. It seems to have worked well.

Caps highlighted (they are taller than the VRMs):


CPU 2's VRMs got the best coverage:


CPU 3's VRMs are spaced such that I needed to install one heatsink crooked:
 
I made some cuts using a dremel to avoid bad contact right where those caps are. I'll probably spend some more bucks and get one of the boards that have no sockets next to each other, they don't seem to have this issue (ccorect me if I'm wrong). I'll also use just fans over the teritary areas instead of cuttin a gazillion sinks. There's really no need for anything else. You can use the mobo mounting holes to get some "altitude" for the fans, I used spare parts from this kit: http://www.dazmode.com/store/uploaded/thumbnails/db_file_img_1442_800xauto.jpg (as an example). Plastic washers on both sides of the hole, nut on the back, and 4 of those "screws" found on the mid-right side of the picture stacked on the front side of the board, with a fan on top, secured with a hex screw you see in the upper-right corner.

Hopefully this explanation makes sense :)
 
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