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*Grabs Head..AHaHhHhh***

W

WithoutATrAce

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
205
Ok, just posting up for a pre-order checkup. Like I said before, Im looking for more of the Looks and silence rather than overclocking. Within the year I'm going to be selling my computer anyways and building a new rig. Then I'm going to overclock.

-MCP655 pump
-Storm 2 CPU Block
-7/16" MasterKleer Tubing

Thats about all that i KNOW I'm getting. The other parts I'm confused about. Because I'm not really going to head into overclocking, is it worth the extra money and hassle to get a maze4 block, a bigger radiator, and a $25 radbox. *to cool my vid card* I would need the radbox for the GT240 to fit on the back of my case since I have the cables on the back.
W/O it, I would save a good 80-90 dollars. Is it really worth it? I'm leaning towards no, as much as I would like to have it I dont THINK its worth it right now. BTW, I have a Radeon 9800.

If you guys agree with no, then Im going to get the 120GT rad, and then just mount that either inside or on the back with 1 Yate Loon Fan.

Other than that I think thats all I need to know. Im getting the metal clamps, and T Line.
O, wait, question....
In order to mount the block on my cpu, do i have to take the motherboard out? I know, dumb question, but I really have no clue....I have an Asus K8-n mobo. And then once i fill it up from my Fillport, how should I get everything running? Because the t line doesnt go into the input of the pump, and you shudnt run the pump without any liquid in it....So how does that work? Whats the proper way of filling it....
O, and with the power...I have a 550 watt Ultra x2. How do I give power to only the pump and Rad fan? Just unplug the connectors from the drives and motherboard and let it rip or what?

So sorry for beeing so stupid:( But thankx for your help. Pretty much Im lost and i need it...
 
since your not really o/cing then the only benefit you would gain by putting the vid card in the loop would be noise. i guess if you find the fan on your vid card is too loud then get the maze4 block. i dont think the fan on the 9800's is that loud anyway... at least not in comparison to the 1900xt.

i believe with most amd setup's you shouldnt have to take out the motherboard as the required back plate is there already.

the t-line should be placed before the inlet of the pump... fill as much as possible and then start the pump and keep adding fluid as required. then its just a matter of getting all the air out of the lines. you would basically unplug the atx power connector from the mobo and "jump start" it to get the pump working without powering up the rest of the pc. just have to short 2 of the pins...
 
I'll attempt to answer a couple of your questions.

First: order what you can from dangerden.com and use the coupon PAGLAN06, it'll get you 20% off.

In terms of your setup the first thing I would personally do is switch out that block for another if you're not going to OC. The storm is a pretty hardcore block and so is the price. I would consider going with this deal which after the coupon would get you your pump and block for $87. That pump is the same as the MCP655 BTW, just the DD version. In turn you'll need to move up to 1/2" ID tubing but IMHO that wouldn't be a huge deal just snag the clearflex off the DD website.

In terms of cooling the video card; if you really want to go with silence I know that my video card really makes a racket with that tiny high RPM fan When you cut back on noise from other parts of the system you really notice it in my experience. I would go ahead and grab this radiator and this block. Even with the rad box the cost of those additional purchases would be offset a bit by the fact you're getting 20% off everything but the rad box and saving cash by going with the TDX instead of the storm.

To address your last few questions: you will have to remove the mobo to mount the CPU block. You have to do a little trick to have the PSU run w/o booting up your system. Just google PSU wire trick or paperclip trick. You can find video guides on using the fillport here.
 
What more people cant answer the thread? LOL

Ok, hopefully I get answers within the next half hour because I need to order. O, and thank you for the help with the Danger Den stuff. However , as usual, I have a few ?'s.

How will the TDX and DD5 compare to the Storm and the MCP655? Also, I'm going with 1/2ID Tygon tubing, with that included i get the TDX, DD5, MAze4 chrome edition, 20ft tygon tubing, 14 clamps, 240GT stealth rad for about 250. GREAT!

Does it matter though what OD it is? Or is only the ID important? Because I am going with the 1/2". And what does that deal come with....fittings wise? And what material does it use*the tdx*, i think its some kind of plastic????
 
The OD really ony depends if you are using compression fittings. You don't want the size tubing with larger outer diameter if you are planning on using those type fittings. The fittings simply won't fit unless you can find special ones. If you aren't using compression fittings, then you should be ok. A larger OD tube is good to help prevent kinking.

Edit, 3/8 and 1/2 are good ID tubing sizes to use. Its the most common, you can find plenty of stuff to fit it, and its has a pretty good flow rate if you are using a decent pump and blocks. I see you already planned on 1/2 ID, that should work great.
 
tdx is copper base w/ acrilic top
OD matters because it determins the radius or turn the tube can perform w/o kinking...
I would get 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer

you dont have to use clamps b/c the tubing is really tight... use hot water to soften the tubing and fit.
 
any other replies? Personally i would want to get the tygon...I have the money for it np. Plus its 1/2" which is better. Please answer quickly....
Heres my setup, tell me if everything wil fit...

DD TDX and DD5 Pump combo...I guess 1/2" ID barbs
Maze4 Chrome GPU 1/2" ID barbs
240 GTStealth 1/2" ID
Swiftech Radbox
2 120mm Yateloon Fans
8 ft Tygon 1/2" ID tubing
Bunch of clamps *dunt care that i need to use em*
DD fillport
T-Line
Koolance liquid *dunt want pentosin or wat not*
and i think thats it? Hows it sound?
 
You need to do more research... LOADS of threads detailing why 7/16" is considered better than 1/2".

Price of the tubing is irrelevant. Just cos tygon is more expensive doesn't mean it's better... it's more porous than other tubing so more susceptible to staining. It has builtin UV Filters which dull the effects of any UV Lighting / Dye in play, thus meaning you have to use more uv dye, thus resulting in even worse staining.

Slow down. Read up on what it is that you want to do, or you'll just be pissed off with the end result.

And the Swiftech MCR / Cooltek rads will outperform the Black Ice GT range...
 
Marci said:
You need to do more research... LOADS of threads detailing why 7/16" is considered better than 1/2".

Price of the tubing is irrelevant. Just cos tygon is more expensive doesn't mean it's better... it's more porous than other tubing so more susceptible to staining. It has builtin UV Filters which dull the effects of any UV Lighting / Dye in play, thus meaning you have to use more uv dye, thus resulting in even worse staining.

Slow down. Read up on what it is that you want to do, or you'll just be pissed off with the end result.

And the Swiftech MCR / Cooltek rads will outperform the Black Ice GT range...
Click to expand...

really? hmm weird, i would think a GT would def. outperforman a swiftech mcr, guess I was wrong? what did you conclude that info?
 
The Gt rads and the Swiftech MCR rads are about equal.

Tygon tubing is overpriced, crappy and a total waste of money. A year and a half ago, there were very few people or threads deadicated to this stuff. That has changed, as an early adopter of Masterkleer (a former Tygon user) I can truthfully say that tygon was a pos waste of money. It's sooo expensive because it's certified for lab use etc.
 
Arcygenical said:
The Gt rads and the Swiftech MCR rads are about equal.

Tygon tubing is overpriced, crappy and a total waste of money. A year and a half ago, there were very few people or threads deadicated to this stuff. That has changed, as an early adopter of Masterkleer (a former Tygon user) I can truthfully say that tygon was a pos waste of money. It's sooo expensive because it's certified for lab use etc.
Click to expand...

i've used all tygon,masterkleer and pvc in all 3 differernt setups and in the same setups
they're all basically the same but my fav has been 7"16 masterkleer or pvc

the tygon stuff gets stained easily, using the same amount of coolant for masterkleer, it didnt get stained as bad. I even steamed both tubings at one point and ended up throwing away the tygon.Oh and the tygon imprint on the tubing is aestically displeasing as well

stick with masterkleer or pvc

oh and regarding the gt and mcr comparision, I guess it makes sense that they both offer the same performance but the guess the gt has an advantage because its super thin
 
Very happy with Masterkleer 7/16... it's strong and very forgiving... also it looks darn nice and clear.

Haven't tried Tygon tough.
 
really? hmm weird, i would think a GT would def. outperforman a swiftech mcr, guess I was wrong? what did you conclude that info?
Click to expand...

See independant test results halfway down the first post... http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=77260

1 - Flow Restrictivity - flow set at 4lpm at pump, measured after radiator. % loss shown - smaller the loss, better the flow... listed best to worst.

Least Restrictive to flow...
ThermoChill PA120.3 - 6%
Watercool HTFX3-x - 14%
HWLabs BlackIce GT360 - 17%
HWLabs BlackIce GT360 XFlow - 17%
HWLabs BlackIce Xtreme - 17%
HWLabs BlackIce Xtreme XFlow - 17%
Watercool HTSF - 17%
Cooltek MCR320 - 18%
NexXxos Xtreme - 23%
NexXxos Pro - 27%
...most restrictive to flow

As you can see, you could theoretically run TWO Thermochill rads, and still have better flow than if you were using a SINGLE rad of any other brand.

2 - Performance order (best to worst) based on final coolant temp, cooled with YateLoon 120mm fan - lower the "k" figure (difference between coolant temp and air temp), cooler the coolant, therefore better the performance...

At 600rpm:
Thermochill PA120.3 - 7k
Watercool HTSF - 8k
Watercool HTSF3-x - 8.4k
Cooltek Maxistream / Swiftech MCR - 8.4k
Black Ice GT - 9.2k
Black Ice Extreme - 11k
Alphacool NexXxos Pro - 11.2k
Black Ice GT X-Flow - 12.1k
Black Ice Extreme X-Flow - 12.3k
Alphacool NexXxos Extreme - 14k


At 900rpm:
ThermoChill - 6.2k
Cooltek - 6.9k
BIGT - 7.2k
WC HTSF - 7.3k
BIGT-XFlow - 7.3k
WC HTSF3-x - 7.4k
NexXxos Pro - 7.5k
BIX - 8.5k
NexXxos Extreme - 8.5k
BIX-XFlow - 9.5k


At 1200rpm:
ThermoChill - 4.2k
Cooltek - 5.6k
BIGT - 5.7k
BIGT-XFlow - 5.9k
BIX - 5.9k
NexXxos Pro - 6.1k
NexXxos Extreme - 6.1k
HTF3-x - 6.3k
HTSF - 6.3k
BIX-XFlow - 6.6k
Click to expand...
 
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