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Got new GPU, now I can't overclock the CPU?

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1_rick

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Feb 7, 2017
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Apparently the last time I updated the BIOS on my Ryzen 1600x, I lost the overclock settings. Coincidentally, I upgraded from a GTX 950 to a 1060 this weekend. I put the new card in Sunday night, then Monday I tried putting a mild OC back on the CPU (just 3800MHz). As soon as Windows started, the nVidia driver (latest from their website, 398.11, never used the Asus drivers that came with the card), failed to start. Symptom is that the screen would blank for seconds at a time as soon as Windows came up. I guess it's constantly trying to restart the nVidia driver, giving up and loading the "Basic Microsoft VGA driver" one, and then trying to restart the nVidia one again. As soon as I power off, turn off CPU OC in the BIOS and restart, everything is fine.

I did use ASUS GPU Tweak to set the GPU in OC mode instead of Gaming mode for higher clocks, but I tried turning it back to Gaming Mode, which didn't seem to make any difference.

I haven't messed with (for example) BCLK because that's not an option on my motherboard. I have a Corsair CX450M. I guess theoretically if I ran a CPU and GPU stress test at the same time I could maybe go past the limits of the PSU, but this happened immediately on boot, when the GPU should be more or less idle (and ASUS' gpu monitor tool says the GPU's clock is like 139MHz).

CPU was set to 1.375V, which it previously worked fine on--I could get this chip to run at 4GHz with that speed.


Any ideas? Could the video card be bad? It's this card: ​
www.microcenter.com/product/467997/GeForce_GTX_1060_Overclocked_Dual-Fan_6GB_GDDR5_Video_Card
 
Did you do a fresh install with the Nvidia installer?

Also and I could be wrong but I think when windows loads it puts your card in to 3d clocks when it starts the driver.

It very well could be a power issue.
 
Yeah, I put the card in the case, swapping out the older 950 (which had a driver from January), then got the latest installer from nVidia.com & installed it. It worked fine Sunday night.

I have a kill-o-watt I can plug in tonight and check actual power draw at non-OC speeds. I'm not positive it's a CX450M, but it probably is--can't check until I'm at home.

The 950 is supposed to be a 90W card & the 1060 a 120W card in general, according to Wikipedia.
 
you could try ddu and then reinstall the driver but...
iif you only have a 450w psu youre probably pushing it too hard. the 1060 requires a 400w to account for spikes etc. do not fall for the current trend of running your psu on the very edge, you want headroom on your wattage.
 
Ok, at home now, I can see it's a grey-label CX430 that I bought new last year. After getting to the Windows desktop it idles at 70-80W, measured by the Kill-O-Watt. During the boot process it goes as high as 120W. Running Prime95 bumps it to 150 or so. OCCT's GPU test hovers around 115-125. Both together runs around 155W.

Bear in mind I'm seeing the screen blank as soon as the Windows boot screen shows up, before I log in, so I don't dispute your mention of spikes to 400W, but it doesn't seem like that's happening here. (When I unplugged the computer from the wall to plug in the meter and turned the computer back on, the GPU ramped the fans to 100% a couple of times but the wattage held around 60W, I believe before the Windows boot started.

I let the desktop sit for a couple minutes this morning with the CPU overclocked--again, only a 200MHz OC, and the voltage is only 1.375--and it never seemed to settle down. I'd get a second or two of the desktop, and then 5-10 seconds of blank screen. The Windows notification area kept telling me the driver failed to start & the Microsoft Basic driver was running.
 
OCCT's Power supply test + Prime95 peaked at 260W or so, and a CPU temp (Tdie) of 58C. After a minute or so the whole machine froze.

Thoughts? I will buy a bigger/better power supply if it makes sense. Brand recommendations would be welcome.
 
ok that's what the psu is drawing, what is it outputting though?
try another higher wattage psu even a 5-550w would be enough. I like seasonics but any brand with a good rating will do.
 
pendragon1 said:
ok that's what the psu is drawing, what is it outputting though?
try another higher wattage psu even a 5-550w would be enough. I like seasonics but any brand with a good rating will do.
Click to expand...

The only other ones have handy are a new CX450M that was going to go into a low-powered server an RX650m that's currently in my son's computer and i can't borrow until tomorrow.
 
borrow the 650 tomorrow then. one other this is to try reseating it and the cables, make sure all the pins are inserted correctly. someone else around here was having issues under load 'cause a cable was loose. I just remembered...
 
Ok, put the 650 in, set a 200MHz OC (3.6 -> 3.8, and I know this CPU can handle 4.0), powered on, same thing: when I get to the "press space to get the login prompt" screen, it starts in with the screen: a couple seconds on, and then off for maybe 20 seconds or whatever.

Swapping out the PSU was fun, too. Had to unhook the radiator so I could get to the ATX12V cable.
 
ok good not the psu but is still think your pushing it with a 430/450 and OCing. did you ever ddu and reinstall the driver?
 
No on the ddu. I will try that after I get it put back together. I'm taking the opportunity to do a little cable moving.

I assume the tubes for my watercooler should not touch the back of the video card.
 
As I said I am not opposed to as bigger PSU but I want to see if I can get this resolved.
 
1_rick said:
I assume the tubes for my watercooler should not touch the back of the video card.
Click to expand...
Should be fine as long as they aren't metal or wet, although you should keep them from pressing against the card if possible. Excess torque on the pci-e slot can cause bad contact, although it'd have to be a pretty good amount of force.
 
Nah, they're wrapped, it's a kraken x52, and it turns out they would just touch the top edge of the card's PCB.

Downloaded ddu and windows wanted to install the latest insider preview build, so I'm waiting for that to finish now.
 
Can you try your original card ? The numbers you're seen from the kill a watt seems rather low when loading the GPU... I would compare against original card number.
You could also try a fresh windows install on another partition or a linux live CD.

EDIT: You connected the ATX12V + the other 4/8 pins connector to motherboard right ?
 
Hilariously, I forgot to plug in GPU 6-pin connector. Once I did that, the machine powered up at the non-OC speed, but shut down after a few seconds. Then I noticed the radiator fans weren't spinning. Oopsie. Good news! Ryzen CPUs are smart enough not to fry themselves under those conditions!

I have an Ubuntu 18.04 disc I can try out, and I can plug the original card back in and check the power usage, but not tonight.
 
[never mind, I was remembering something wrong.]
 
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OK, found my Ubuntu livecd, booted up at stock clocks (took forever off a USB drive) fine, rebooted & set CPU to 3800MHz and booted into the livecd (forever again! it felt like it took 3-4 minutes) and I didn't get the video failure thing. I got Prime95 and ran the blend torture test and lscpu showed ~3800MHz, and again, no video problems.

Edit: If it matters, I didn't bother getting the nVidia proprietary graphics drivers, I just used whatever was on the livecd.
 
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1_rick said:
Edit: If it matters, I didn't bother getting the nVidia proprietary graphics drivers, I just used whatever was on the livecd.
Click to expand...
thats good, hardware is prob fine then. it might. try a fresh load of windows on a different drive with the newest driver.
 
Glad to read that ! A Fresh install would be a good idea, maybe a SSD upgrade ? (Not sure what you use a OS Drive, but that would be a nice timing to get a M.2 or bigger SSD if needed)
 
Trying a fresh install now, although the only spare drive I have handy is an old 2.5" laptop drive, which is kinda slow. The main drive in the machine is a Patriot Hellfire NVMe m.2.
 
1_rick said:
Trying a fresh install now, although the only spare drive I have handy is an old 2.5" laptop drive, which is kinda slow. The main drive in the machine is a Patriot Hellfire NVMe m.2.
Click to expand...
unplug the nic and grab the video driver on another system. that way windows doesn't try and update.
 
Already got the driver installed, rebooted to a 3800MHz OC, no blinky. I guess that means "reinstall Windows."

Before that I'll try a higher OC, just to check. I won't do more than a really short Prime95, just to make sure it doesn't blink at faster speeds.
 
Seems fine at 4.0 at the desktop. 2 minutes of Prime95 blend and it's a bit warm but all the panels are off. I guess that means formatting the main drive and starting fresh.
 
well either keep TSing or reload, your call on the time you want to put in. any gpu oc software on the original os or control suites?
 
TS?

The card is an Asus, and I have their GPU Tweak software installed but it's not set to OC, just to run in normal "gaming mode".
 
oh, lol.

So get this: Windows be weird, amirite? I powered down, unplugged the extra drive, and yoloed and rebooted the PC without turning the OC off. And it booted fine. I'm in GW2 right now at 3991.3MHz (let's here it for inexact clock generators!) with the GPU clock at 1911MHz pulling 206W from the wall.

Edit: I DID, before this, set the GPU Tweak software to not start with Windows. I don't know if that matters, since it doesn't start (I think?) until after I log in, and the blinking happened before I log in.
 
yeah the blinking could be caused by the software trying to set the clock speeds incorrectly.
 
I'll leave it off, just in case. I don't really need the graphs running all the time.
 
give it a good thrashing and then if you want to fiddle with the gpu try afterburner.
 
works for pretty much every card. I have here controlling an evga 970 and a gigabyte 560ti and sapphire in the past.
 
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