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Good set up for watercooling?

C

CaptainSoble

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
282
Definitely new to watercooling, not sure exactly what I"m doing. Decided to go with a watercooling / Yate Loon set up since I already have the case for the job. What do you guys think of this set up...and what else will I need? Plan to OC the GPU to 700 and the CPU to 3.2 to 3.6.

XSPC GTX260 Full Coverage Water Block

Swiftech Apogee GT CPU Block
XSPC RS360 BLACK - 3x120 Copper Fin Radiator
EK-Multioption RES 400 rev.2 water reservoir
Dtek Liquid F/X UV Dye: Clear Blue


Leaving the stock fanless chipset cooler alone. Should I use a coolant or should I just use distilled water / UV Dye. Also does the size of the tubing depend on the gpu block / cpu block I use? Just not too sure what size tubing to go with, and other additional accessories I would need. I am only cooling one GTX260 but might get another one down the road which is why I figured a bigger radiator might be the best choice. O
 
Make sure not to mix metals, and generally some UV dyes can make things corrode over time and lead to nasty build up...
 
I would rather get UV Blue tubing than UV dye. Most dyes will end up getting gunk buildup in your waterblocks.
 
+1 for the UV tubing.. that's what i get now.. saves having to clean crap out of blocks / reservoirs.
 
Alright, I'm going to go with the UV tubing. Should I go with the 1/2" barbs or 3/8" barbs
on the cpu block. And a review for the Apogee CPU listed the plastic barbs that come
with it as a CON. Should I go ahead and go with the Apogee GTZ or DTEK V2 instead?
 
I would recommend the GTZ, excellent mounting system and great performance. The Dtek V2 is pretty good as well but the mounting system isn't as good.

1/2" barbs with 7/16" ID 5/8" OD Tubing is my personal favorite.
 
Ok, changed my list of components to:

Swiftech Apogee GTZ - This seems to be the best one out there according to reviews, and the best mounting system, thought a bit pricey. Also it will be compatible with intel's 1366 socket processors according to this review(http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=655&page=6) , so it's nice to know that I can at least use this if I do upgrade the board, which I will if I want to run SLI.

Swiftech MRC 320 Radiator With 3 Scythe Slip Stream Kaze Jyuni 1200RPM Fans
Supposedly this is a good Rad for Low Speed fans from what I've read.

XSPC GTX260 Full Water Block: Getting this one because it seems like a good deal for $40. As long as it's better than the stock cooling and load temps improve by 10c that'll be good enough for me. I'll get two of these since they are so cheap and save one for when I upgrade.

Blue XSPC UV Tubing as suggested by another member instead of using dyes.

EK-Multioption RES 400 rev.2This one is big, but I figured bigger is better? Should I go with the Swiftech MCRes-Micro instead. Seems like people with SLI rigs or a 4870x2 use that one and do just fine.
 
Depends on the room in your case. The MicroRes is a good reservoir, but if you have the room the Multioption res 400 is a good reservoir to grow into. This will be going into the rocketfish case I take it...

What do you plan on running for fluid? Distilled water? Any Biocide in the mix?
 
CaptainSoble said:
Ok, changed my list of components to:

Swiftech Apogee GTZ - This seems to be the best one out there according to reviews, and the best mounting system, thought a bit pricey. Also it will be compatible with intel's 1366 socket processors according to this review(http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=655&page=6) , so it's nice to know that I can at least use this if I do upgrade the board, which I will if I want to run SLI.

Swiftech MRC 320 Radiator With 3 Scythe Slip Stream Kaze Jyuni 1200RPM Fans
Supposedly this is a good Rad for Low Speed fans from what I've read.

XSPC GTX260 Full Water Block: Getting this one because it seems like a good deal for $40. As long as it's better than the stock cooling and load temps improve by 10c that'll be good enough for me. I'll get two of these since they are so cheap and save one for when I upgrade.

Blue XSPC UV Tubing as suggested by another member instead of using dyes.

EK-Multioption RES 400 rev.2This one is big, but I figured bigger is better? Should I go with the Swiftech MCRes-Micro instead. Seems like people with SLI rigs or a 4870x2 use that one and do just fine.
Click to expand...

The Apogee GT is a great block for the money, the GTZ will perform better and does have a better/easier mounting system. Tubing size does not matter, go with what looks best or is easiest to run in your case. Distilled water with petrocide is the best, however if you want color go with a coolant like Fesser pre-mix. This will do a few things for you. 1)You will not have to worry about mixing metals, not that you are mind you, everything you have is copper. 2)Because it is pre-mixed it is less likely to gunk up your system, I have yet to have any gunk in any of the builds I have done. 3)I like the color better than the colored tubing, this a personal preference. If you decide to go half inch barbs, go with metal and get 7/16" tubing. It will be a little tight getting it on, but I doubt it will come off, still use some sort of clamp, zip ties are the easiest and cheapiest. If you wanted something more reliable to hold the tubing on, use compression fittings. Koolance fittings run $9 a pair, look nicer and the tubing will not come off once the compression is screwed down. The XSPC block for the video card is a great choice and at $40 how can you go wrong. By the way, I did not see a pump in your list. I would suggest using the MCP355 with a replacement top, such as the XSPC Res top. It's the best performing pump top out there and it will eliminate the need for a separate res and it cuts down on barbs and tubing runs. All of this can be gotten at Jab-tech.com or performancepcs.com. Hope that helps and welcome to water cooling.
 
- Ok, made some changes once again...but I placed the order on these already...so these items won't be changed out. I almost pulled the trigger on the quadruple fan rad but decided that with my current setup, it was not necessary. I found that the difference as far as temps go from the Apogee GT to the Apogee GTZ was around 2c..just not worth it. I did get the metal high flow barbs for the apogee gt though to replace the plastic ones. All I need is a reservoir, tubing, and a Grill for the Rad. I'm just going to use black zip ties for the clamps.


XSPC Razor GTX260 Full Cover VGA Water-Block Options: Barbs: 1/2" XSPC Barbs

Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller

Swiftech Apogee GT universal water block

Swiftech high flow Barbs 1/2" -

Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator Options: Barbs: 1/2" Swiftech Metal High Flow
 
Masterkleer 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD will be good tubing. You may need to heat up the tubing to allow it to slip over the 1/2" barbs, but it will be tight, which is what you want, then zip tie it. You can get the new Swiftech Micro Res for $25, it has a port on the bottom and the top is now a G1/4" fitting which means it will except a regular barb. You can use the bottom one as a drain port and the top as a filport. You could do a T-line, I just don't recommend them due to the fact they are harder to bleed the air out and since you did not get the MCP655 variable you are going to have a hard enough time bleeding it. I have one and it is a pain to bleed. Don't forget fans, the Zalman ZM3 only run $10 and are almost as good as San Ace fans. Have fun with it.
 
utnorris said:
Masterkleer 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD will be good tubing. You may need to heat up the tubing to allow it to slip over the 1/2" barbs, but it will be tight, which is what you want, then zip tie it. You can get the new Swiftech Micro Res for $25, it has a port on the bottom and the top is now a G1/4" fitting which means it will except a regular barb. You can use the bottom one as a drain port and the top as a filport. You could do a T-line, I just don't recommend them due to the fact they are harder to bleed the air out and since you did not get the MCP655 variable you are going to have a hard enough time bleeding it. I have one and it is a pain to bleed. Don't forget fans, the Zalman ZM3 only run $10 and are almost as good as San Ace fans. Have fun with it.
Click to expand...

Yah, I read that boiling some water and dipping the tubes in it will help. So I guess I will get the Swiftech Micro Res then. Doesn't the Micro Res come with barbs?

As for bleeding...or getting the bubbles out...I guess I'm just going to have to tackle that when I get to it. Been looking at the enlobal or scythe fans right now.

Also what do you think about waterblocks for the chipsets and drivers. I don't think I could get away with removing the front and rear 120mm case fans as it would still be a good idea to have air flow in the case regardless I assume. But if say both chipsets, hard drives, and ram were water-cooled, then technically.
 
CaptainSoble said:
Yah, I read that boiling some water and dipping the tubes in it will help. So I guess I will get the Swiftech Micro Res then. Doesn't the Micro Res come with barbs?

As for bleeding...or getting the bubbles out...I guess I'm just going to have to tackle that when I get to it. Been looking at the enlobal or scythe fans right now.

Also what do you think about waterblocks for the chipsets and drivers. I don't think I could get away with removing the front and rear 120mm case fans as it would still be a good idea to have air flow in the case regardless I assume. But if say both chipsets, hard drives, and ram were water-cooled, then technically.
Click to expand...

First, I finally got 99% of the air out of my loop. I had to fill the micro res almost to the top and the move it around to get the air out, all while cycling the pump. Like I stated befor get the new one, should be easier. I know it comes with plastic barbs, but I am not sure about the new one. You do not want to use plastic barbs, they are a real PITA.

Scythe fans are good, here is a review of some fans done by Vapor on xtremsystems.org:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=171661
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=193126

Chipsets are not necessary, however I do w/c mine. As for the Ram, no need and it will not benefit you to w/c the Ram.

Yes you will need some air flow still, the mb still gets hot and can benefit from some airflow.
 
MrE said:
Depends on the room in your case. The MicroRes is a good reservoir, but if you have the room the Multioption res 400 is a good reservoir to grow into. This will be going into the rocketfish case I take it.
Click to expand...

Yah, going in the rocketfish. I decided to go with the MicroRes after all since everyone seems to like it and use it.

MrE said:
What do you plan on running for fluid? Distilled water? Any Biocide in the mix.
Click to expand...

I have no idea. Now that I am getting rid of my GTX260 for a 4870x2, I want to run 7/16" tygon clear tubing with a red coolant type fluid if possible. Now that I know dyes are no good, what coolant would you recommed? I know Swiftech makes a fluid that they say will last for five years without changing. I just want a fluid that I can put in and not have to worry about changing it out for a year or so. I heard that Feser One is non-conductive..so I might go that route just to be on the safe side.
 
I personally run Feser One. The coolant is bright, and I haven't had any clogging. I took my loop apart a month ago after running it for 3 months with no blue gunk in either CPU or GPU block. Its pricey at $20 a liter, but I like premix. Many others will run distilled water with some PT nuke + a GC inhibitor and its much cheaper to produce.
 
Is FeserOne really non-conductive. I mean, if it spills on the PC it won't damage the components? I find that a bit hard to believe. If it's true, then that $20 is certainly worth it. It must be true as I cannot find any feserone in stock at any of the online tech sites.:(
 
Ok, Finally done ordering all the parts, thanks to those who have helped and cleared the air with tubing size, coolant, etc. I think I got all the parts I need now:

XSPC 4870x2 Waterblock
Swiftech 655-B Water Pump
Feser Xchanger Quad Radiator w/ 1/2" xspc metal barbs
4.5" Hole Saw (To make holes for 120mm fans on Rad)
3/8" Arbor for Hole Saw
4 Yate Loon D12-SL (Plan to get fan controller if they are too loud)
Swifttech Apogee GT
Swiftech Micro-Res Revision 2 / with 1/2" xspc metal barbs
Tygon 3603 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Clear Tubing
Zip Ties for Clamps
Feser F1 Red Coolant
 
One quick question, why did you go with the Apogee GT? Was that something you already owned?
 
I went with the Apogee GT because based on reviews, there was like a 2-4c difference in temps from the GTZ. GTZ didn't seem worth it. Are those reviews correct?
 
GTZ is better, it's worth the extra money. Also, get the variable speed MCP655, it makes bleeding the loop much easier.
 
Get the GTZ for the extra few dollars. It has a better mounting system than the GT, and knowing Swiftech, they'll come out with a new mounting plate for Intel's new LGA1366, where as the GT is an end of life product from Swiftech.

I like the variable speed 655 for the pump too. It simplifies getting the bubbles out of the loop. Full blast when you first have the loop filled, then turn it down to 2 for 1/2 hour and the bubbles are gone.
 
Well it's too late, I can't make the change as I ordered those items already, so I'm going to have to make due. Hopefully they will come out with a mounting plate for the Apogee GT when intel's new socket comes out. I doubt it as they probably want to sell more of their newer units. As for the pump...any tips or strategies to make the bleeding process easier without the speed bing adjustable?

I am starting to wonder about Feser One Coolant though. Distilled Water is in fact non-conductive...and Feser One is supposedly a bit more non-conductive correct? Is Feser One simply glorified distilled water with UV Dye in it? Hmmm...

Alright, I got a pretty good idea of how my set up is going to look like. I took this pic from another member in these forums to serve as an example as he has a rocketfish case and pretty much the same setup minus the reservoir. This is not my pc:

IMAGE_031.jpg


So from this guy's set a good order for the loop would be:

From Reservoir to Pump to Rad to CPU Block to GPU Block to NB Block - Back To Reservoir.

Of course I don't have a NB block so I'll just go from the gpu block to the reservoir. Since I have a Quad Feser it will definitely fit, but it's going to cover the whole length of the case, and I'll be losing the two front USB Ports. That's Ok though as the G15 USB Ports will make up for that loss.

I will have to mount the Feser Rad like this guy has with the Tits / Barbs towards the rear because if I do it the other way around, it's going to be at a tough angle going from the Rad to CPU Block due to the DVD Drives getting in the way.
 
CaptainSoble said:
Distilled Water is in fact non-conductive...
Click to expand...


Sorry, but this is not true. Most off the shelf distilled water is in fact, filtered with carbon, which is a conductor.

Pulled from a water conductivity page
Ordinary distilled water in equilibrium with carbon dioxide of the air has a conductivity of about 10 x 10-6 W-1*m-1 (20 dS/m). Because the electrical current is transported by the ions in solution, the conductivity increases as the concentration of ions increases.
Click to expand...

The Feser One is good fluid, but as I stated before, you'd be fine with distilled water + Bioside, and run colored UV treated tubing.
 
MrE said:
Sorry, but this is not true. Most off the shelf distilled water is in fact, filtered with carbon, which is a conductor.

Pulled from a water conductivity page


The Feser One is good fluid, but as I stated before, you'd be fine with distilled water + Bioside, and run colored UV treated tubing.
Click to expand...

Distilled water is still 1000 times less conductive than tap water, and only 10 times more conductive than absolute pure water. For all intents and purposes distilled water doesn't conduct enough to cause immediate damage in most cases. However the problem with distilled (or deionized) water is that it does not stay nonconductive for long. As soon as you put it in your loop it starts stealing ions from everything it can and will quickly become conductive. Supposed non-conductive fluids prevent the leeching the ions and stay non-conductive longer.
 
Understood, but I was simply pointing out that distilled water is still conductive, and according to the formula for conductivity, gets progressively worse as time goes on.
 
What about Pentosin G11. I've read a lot of people use that. They say it's basically
Volkswagen Anti-Freeze.
 
It doesn't matter about the fluid being non-conductive. As soon as it hits your board if there is dust particles, dirt, hair, whatever, it will become conductive to a degree. If you leak test it ahead of time for a good 12 hours and you use clamps of some sort or compression fittings then you will be fine.

I have used G11 in the past, the blue version, looks fantastic Use it if you need the anti-corrosion properties or you like the blue color, otherwise straight distilled water is the best. Personally, I am using the Feser Blue pre-mixed in my loops. I used the G11 blue before and only went with the Feser because I got a deal on it. If you do use the G11, I would not recommend a biocide with it as it will make the blue color lighter.
 
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