gigabyte x58a-ud7 blocks

Loafdogg420

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
445
Hi all,

Sorry in advance for the wall of questions.

So, I just put the mobo in my sig under water. The mosfets and the ICH, IOH. I picked up the EK acetal + nickel blocks a couple of weeks ago from perf pc's. My problem is this, the temps on my board are significantly higher than they were, specifically the TMPIN0 and TMPIN2. First thing I did was try to identify which sensor corresponds to what. I found mixed answers on both the gigabyte forums and various others. Pretty sure that tmpin1 is a general system temp, what im not sure of is the other two (one has gotta be the NB right?). That's my first issue.

After seeing the increase I immediately thought it was the result of mis-mounted blocks so I reseated both the mosfet and ich/ioh. The result was the same. My TMPIN2 is reading ~60C at the lowest! With the stock heatsink I was seeing temps 20C lower. :eek: Everybody else is happy, the cpu and gpu are both chillin as normal.. And, although gigabyte says thats a perfectly acceptable temp, im thinking to myself.. why did I spend money on these blocks to have higher temps!?? :p

Is it possible that a component on the board which was transferring heat to the stock heatsink is no longer being cooled due to the installation of these blocks?

Any liquid users out there, with this mobo, having similar issues?

Much appreciated!
 
From my experience, it is sometimes very difficult to get full board blocks like that to make good contact with the chips/components. Based on any imprints on the thermal pads or what the TIM patterns look like, can you tell that each heatsource is making contact with the block?
 
I use everest to read temps no temp 1, 2, and 3 on there all labeled, for me NB tamps are temp 3 on speedfan, temp 1 is motherboard, temp 2 is CPU. My board was under water before I owned it and the temps were around 10-12C lower then stock coolers so must be a problem.
 
From my experience, it is sometimes very difficult to get full board blocks like that to make good contact with the chips/components. Based on any imprints on the thermal pads or what the TIM patterns look like, can you tell that each heatsource is making contact with the block?
Thanks!

In my panic, i didnt even think to check the imprints and TIM. estupido! I feel pretty dumb now lol. Maybe this time I will install some QDC's so this isnt a day long project each time :p

@Adz thanks for the info. I've used hwmon forever. Maybe I need to try my hand at something new.
 
Thanks!

In my panic, i didnt even think to check the imprints and TIM. estupido! I feel pretty dumb now lol. Maybe this time I will install some QDC's so this isnt a day long project each time :p

@Adz thanks for the info. I've used hwmon forever. Maybe I need to try my hand at something new.

Ah yes I remember now, he bought thicker pad's then stock ones but I don't remember the brand all I remember is they were not the usual off white pad's thy were grey. I pulled it all off and sold it on another forum, i'm an air guy to scared of open loops:eek:
P.S. VERY jealous of the 970 I want one so so badly.
 
Ah yes I remember now, he bought thicker pad's then stock ones but I don't remember the brand all I remember is they were not the usual off white pad's thy were grey. I pulled it all off and sold it on another forum, i'm an air guy to scared of open loops:eek:
P.S. VERY jealous of the 970 I want one so so badly.

The ones that came with were grey 1mm. hexacore pimpin :p
 
I texted him he said it was a 35CMX35CMX3mm pad he bought off of ebay and cut up, so I think the added thickness makes for a much better contact.

Interesting, very interesting.. Im gonna reseat once more and see where I am. If im still SOL, I think ill try some thicker pads. Thanks for your help!
 
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