Sprayingmango
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2012
- Messages
- 1,259
Unless you overclock (which a true overclocker would use liquid anyway) they all operate and perform the same.
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Noise level is a big factor at the same temps/clocks.Unless you overclock (which a true overclocker would use liquid anyway) they all operate and perform the same.
It was up at $179.99 sometime during the weekend. Jacob said it was a fuck up after the outrage and said it's only supposed to be a $40 premium. Their excuse is that this is going to be a limited run part despite the interest from both Titan X owners who have been waiting 8 months and now all the added 1080 Ti owners...Anyone else notice they jacked the price from $119 to $159 today? Ouch! I tweeted to evga Jacob about it, that's quite a price gouge.
It was up at $179.99 sometime during the weekend. Jacob said it was a fuck up after the outrage and said it's only supposed to be a $40 premium. Their excuse is that this is going to be a limited run part despite the interest from both Titan X owners who have been waiting 8 months and now all the added 1080 Ti owners...
The only changes that were probably made are to the midplate and shroud to accommodate components not on the 1080. Screw layout is exactly the same between the FE versions of the 1070, 1080, 1080 Ti and Titan X. As far as we know at the moment it is still using a standard thickness 120mm radiator.They always seem to do that bullshit and have the kit in short supply and the same for the Hybrid models. Is there even any difference to the previous models in either plate/heatsink/radiator size or the distance of the mounting holes around the GPU?
It was up at $179.99 sometime during the weekend. Jacob said it was a fuck up after the outrage and said it's only supposed to be a $40 premium. Their excuse is that this is going to be a limited run part despite the interest from both Titan X owners who have been waiting 8 months and now all the added 1080 Ti owners...
The only changes that were probably made are to the midplate and shroud to accommodate components not on the 1080. Screw layout is exactly the same between the FE versions of the 1070, 1080, 1080 Ti and Titan X. As far as we know at the moment it is still using a standard thickness 120mm radiator.
So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
I asked Arctic cooling if it was possible with their hybrid coolers, unfortunately not.So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
^^ wow 47c is a very high idle temp. How is your case ventilation? Mine idles at 29ish
Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.
Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
So I guess you could probably just take a Hybrid kit meant for a 980 Ti or something and just mount the waterblock and pump on the card and use the stock midplate and fan if it's a FE card.
Personally after screwing around with heatsinks before, I decided to get ACX cards (now ICX) since they have full mid plates for heat dissipation and protection of the card components. The mid plates also add card rigidity.My Accelero III cooler arrived today, spent an excited 2 hours gluing heatsinks on ...
... then found a spacer is missing to mount the main cooler, doh!
I'm in 2 minds what to do, ask for another spacer or cut up one of the unused 4mm spacers down to the needed 2.5mm.
I dont have precision tools to guarantee the size but I'm sure I can do it.
Thats a £700 risk though.
I've had some port so I'd best think about it tomorrow.
You won't need a heater after that either. It will still dissipate the same amount of heat...
Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.
Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
Are there any aftermarket coolers / hybrids that would permit an SLI setup? My motherboard setup means I only have a single slot between the cards (i.e. I use the 60mm nvidia HB bridge).
Basically, is there an aftermarket cooler that doesn't push the card beyond 2-slots?
The back-side of the PCB also shows a tremendous improvement, with the green line indicating we’ve now mostly achieved parity with the front-side FET temperatures. This is largely attributable to the new backplate and the additional thermal pads, which work to ensure the backplate doesn’t become a hotbox for the VRM backside.
I didnt want to wait to buy a card nor pay silly money for the cooler.Personally after screwing around with heatsinks before, I decided to get ACX cards (now ICX) since they have full mid plates for heat dissipation and protection of the card components. The mid plates also add card rigidity.
ICX mid plate (from a 1080 ftw icx). I'm waiting on 1080ti FTW3 ICX stock and will just transfer my existing 780ti sc (acx midplate) AiO setup over.
Awesome work! I have an arctic accellero hybrid-II that I was thinking of using on my 1080 ti but the time spent installing the ram sinks is making it so I don't know if I want to do that again.... lol. Well done on the work performed! 70C+ or 50's like you see, man that 2 hours sounds worth it!I didnt want to wait to buy a card nor pay silly money for the cooler.
Its not for the faint of heart though, it was a pita to fit so I understand from that perspective.
Anyway, I decided to cut the missing spacer from a larger spare and got it working.
Temps are better than expected and its really bloody quiet!
During normal gaming overclocked it maxes around 52C to 54C, under long term stress testing it reached 59C. Ambient 21C.
Core clocks range from 1987 to 2025 when pushed hard. It downclocks under normal use because its quite hard to get high enough GPU use at 1080p, even using 4K DSR.
Memory clock has increased from +420MHz to +450MHz and may go higher, not fully tested yet.
Quite interesting, I couldnt raise the core +MHz any higher otherwise it would crash under stress testing.
It gives an auto clock increase of +39MHz due to the lower temps.
My main goal of making it silent and reducing temps drastically has been achieved and got a few % performance boost as well.
All for £52 and a pita.
Some piccies of the trauma.
The backplate at the end of the card needs fitting which required a bit of effort because the nuts (that take the rear plate holding screws) screw into the original cooler.
If you can get some nuts to bind them, thats a better approach. I couldnt find any locally so made my own from a supermarket plastic curry pot. Worked brilliantly.
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My room temp is 76F (24C).Mine idle at around that too, perhaps a little lower but not far off...nowhere near 29*C.
Mine are FE cards in SLI in a Corsair 540D. 3x 120mm in the front blowing, 120 (or 140) on the back exhausting out and the rad of my H100 on the top exhausting out...Ambient temps are probably in the mid-teens to mid-20s depending on the weather / whether the heating has been on in the house.
I didnt want to wait to buy a card nor pay silly money for the cooler.
Its not for the faint of heart though, it was a pita to fit so I understand from that perspective.
Anyway, I decided to cut the missing spacer from a larger spare and got it working.
Temps are better than expected and its really bloody quiet!
During normal gaming overclocked it maxes around 52C to 54C, under long term stress testing it reached 59C. Ambient 21C.
Core clocks range from 1987 to 2025 when pushed hard. It downclocks under normal use because its quite hard to get high enough GPU use at 1080p, even using 4K DSR.
Memory clock has increased from +420MHz to +450MHz and may go higher, not fully tested yet.
Quite interesting, I couldnt raise the core +MHz any higher otherwise it would crash under stress testing.
It gives an auto clock increase of +39MHz due to the lower temps.
My main goal of making it silent and reducing temps drastically has been achieved and got a few % performance boost as well.
All for £52 and a pita.
Some piccies of the trauma.
The backplate at the end of the card needs fitting which required a bit of effort because the nuts (that take the rear plate holding screws) screw into the original cooler.
If you can get some nuts to bind them, thats a better approach. I couldnt find any locally so made my own from a supermarket plastic curry pot. Worked brilliantly.
View attachment 21342 View attachment 21343 View attachment 21344 View attachment 21345 View attachment 21346 View attachment 21347 View attachment 21348 View attachment 21349 View attachment 21350 View attachment 21351
Haha, cheersThis is spectacular!! This is true [H] level shit right here lol!! Bravo.
Are there any other options besides the EVGA hybrid kit? Seems like those are going to be about as common as hens teeth thanks to EVGA fucking it away (again). I read that EK was coming out with some kind of kit that worked with them? I'm considering building a full loop but I have other things I want to spend money on right now, only reason I even bought the 1080ti is because I had $400 in dell rewards to put towards it.
NXZT G10 bracket + any of the Asetek coolers from that same period with the same mount.
There are a bunch of different brands who used this type of unit. NZXT, Corsair, Kuhler, Zalman etc. etc.
If you're in Australia I have a set for sale - if not, I'm sure you can find some end of life stock on ebay quite cheaply!
If you want to try a game that brings the 1080ti to it's knees try Metro Last Light on Very High and all the settings at Max was getting about 30-34 FPS on a 1440p monitor just a stutter fest. If you go down to High you get about 70 FPS.