Gaming PC build... quick advice

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dv042b

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Joined
Apr 29, 2010
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1 Sony Optiarc 24X DVD/CD Rewritable Drive Black SATA Model AD-7240S-0B - OEM
$21.99

1 HEC Blitz Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 585W Power Supply
$74.99

1 Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST3500418AS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
$54.99

1 ASUS VH222H Black 21.5" 5ms HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
$169.99

1 MSI 770-C45 AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
$74.99

HIS H577FM1GD Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP
$154.99

1 G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 160
$109.99

1 AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition
$99.9

2 Rosewill RFA-120-BL 120mm 4 Blue LEDs LED Case Fan
$9.98

COOLER MASTER RR-H101-22FK-RA 80mm Long life sleeve bearing CPU Cooler
$14.99


Subtotal: $796.88


Promo Code: -$6.00

Grand Total: $820.60



i dont know crap about computrs it took me 2 hours to select all this stuff based on different resources and forum help... this website rocks and melts faces the users on here should create a secret society and slowly take over the world by building peoples computers that send all the info relayed on them back to a data base so you know everything going on in the world.... that being said

does this build suck or not? for gaming... and other stupid stuff im gonna do like pr0n n all that jizz... i mean jazz
 
Pretty shitty solely on the PSU: The included PSU is just plain shit.

When I get near a PC, I'll post a more detailed reply. But for now: don't buy that setup.
Posted via [H] Mobile Device

EDIT: Near a PC now but I need you to please answer the stickied "ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS FIRST" so that we can help you better.
 
Last edited:
Switch the drive to a Samsung F3 HD502HJ or WD5000AAKS -- both should be faster than the 'cuda.12.

Need sticky answers for more suggestions; also, what games do you play and at what res/settings?
 
WD5000AAKS is Caviar Blue. He wants a Black if it's gonna be anything like an F3.

Also, SSDs. Every new system these days needs to have a Speedy System Drive. But I see that you're trying to save money, which won't fit an SSD very well.
 
Do the blacks use 500GB platters now? Last I heard, the Blue's now use 500GB platters.
 
No way in knowing whether or not your WD5000AAKS is a 500GB platter drive though is there?

And why wouldn't the Blacks, as the newer and higher end models, also be using 500GB platters?
 
NoForgiveness said:
No way in knowing whether or not your WD5000AAKS is a 500GB platter drive though is there?
Click to expand...

There is a way but not before you buy online. Just run HDTune and compare it to these results:


And this older HDTune by Enginurd:
http://www.alphaq.org/enginurd/hdd/HDTune_Benchmark_WDC WD5000AAKS-00YGA.png

See the difference in performance?

Oh and not necessarily about the Blacks, While your logic is sound, I've haven't seen any actual evidence backing that logic. In addition, the fact that the WD 750GB Black was made a black drive despite it's being slower than the WD 640GB Blue and Black.
 
From SPCR, the revisions 00M9A0/00D2B0/00V1A0/65V0A0 of the WD5000AAKS are single platter 500GB drives.
 
NoForgiveness said:
WD5000AAKS is Caviar Blue. He wants a Black if it's gonna be anything like an F3.

Also, SSDs. Every new system these days needs to have a Speedy System Drive. But I see that you're trying to save money, which won't fit an SSD very well.
Click to expand...

You mean Solid-State Drive?

I wouldn't say that any system *needs* one. You can get a hell of a lot more system for the money if that money is allocated elsewhere, even if you're dumping $2000 on a new rig. Purely a luxury IMHO.

Also, I'd recommend an Antec, Cooler Master, Thermaltake, etc, case... stick with a reputable brand if you're planning on using an included PSU. A nice case will last you through several upgrades, give you better cooling, and won't kill your shiny new hardware with a crap PSU. You don't wanna spend a fortune replacing tin-foil cases, with junk power supplies.
 
get a better psu, for harddrive get a samsung (they die much less than the other ones), and for gpu get a 4870 or a used 5850. 5770s for 160 is definatly not a good price.
 
Izza said:
Also, I'd recommend an Antec, Cooler Master, Thermaltake, etc, case... stick with a reputable brand if you're planning on using an included PSU. A nice case will last you through several upgrades, give you better cooling, and won't kill your shiny new hardware with a crap PSU. You don't wanna spend a fortune replacing tin-foil cases, with junk power supplies.
Click to expand...

The only case manufacturer that includes PSUs that are worth a damn is Antec -- and only because it's been using (almost) solely Earthwatt PSUs with its cases. But the Earthwatts aren't the most powerful PSUs you can find today, and for many people using high-end video cards (not to mention any multi-GPU setup), they aren't the best choices, either.
 
1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? primarily gaming... some other media and web surfing... but primarily gaming

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?
800 bucks pre tax

3) Where do you live?
Florida

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? Case, processor, memory, graphics card, case, power supply, fans, mobo, monitor, optical drive, hard drive... pretty much everything except the keyboard and mouse

6) Will you be overclocking? no

7) What size monitor do you have and/or plan to have? 22 in

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
newegg

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? etc.
not sheeeeet

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? 32bit or 64bit? Yes, 64 bit windows 7... yay for ebing a student! $30
 
i playa large variety of games ranging from CS...to some MMOs... LoL..... BLC... planning on playing starcraft 2.... diablo 3... stuff like that
 
the bad PSU... is it not enough power? is it just a junk part? is the risk i run burning up my mother board and what not? anyone care to elaborate? i just dont know anythign about this stuff so its been a frustrating process for me to deal with all this but i thank you guys again for your help
 
Generic brand PSUs oftentimes can't handle the full load that they're "rated" to handle. In other words, there's a good chance that your 585 watt PSU (that comes with the HEC case) would struggle with a high-end video card. To put it another way: It IS junk.

We often recommend name brands like Antec, Corsair, and Seasonic (among others) because we've had positive results from them and they've been reviewed positively by sites that know how to properly stress-test PSUs. (The short list of those who can include the [H], AnandTech, JonnyGURU, and Silent PC Review.)

You also didn't answer question 8 properly: How soon are you going to start buying parts? A week? Two weeks? A month? When?
 
ah.... sorry misread... im answering these at work... i plan on buying ASAP.. within the next few days
 
Not yet... It's all in my cart waiting to be ordered but I don't wanna order it if it's gonna suck... I really need to stay on this budget though... 825 or less AFTER the monitor
 
Go with this build instead:

$173 - AMD Athlon II X3 440 & Gigabyte GA-770TA-UD3 combo
$95 - Corsair XMS3 DHX 2x2GB DDR3 1333 kit
$160 - XFX HD-577X-ZNFC Radeon HD 5770
$56 - Western Digital WD5000AAKS
$24 - LG GH22NS50 DVD burner
$60 - Antec NEO ECO 620C
$60 - Antec Three Hundred Illusion
$170 - ASUS VH226H 21.5" 1920x1080 monitor
=====
$798 - Subtotal (not including shipping, taxes, or rebates)

What you get over your build in the OP is:

- A retail processor with a CPU cooler already included
- A better motherboard
- A faster HDD
- A better quality PSU
- A better quality video card (with a much better warranty)
- A good case with fans already included

If you could up your budget, I'd recommend a larger (23" or 24") 1080p monitor and an HD 5850 (you may have to find it used) to power it.
 
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