Galvanic corrosion present in these components?

Y

young boy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 26, 2007
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419
Thinking of buying a PA120.3 + MCW655 + GTZ + MCW60. These parts are mostly copper or bronze from what I've heard. Just want to confirm with you guys if this is the case. I do not wish to have no anti-corogent agents when the parts have a mixture of metals.
Thanks!
 
Brass is an alloy, from zinc and copper. Both are next to each other on the periodic table of elements (Zn and Cu). So to answer your question, no you should not experience galvanic corrosion, unless you introduce foreign metals into the loop.
 
None that would cause you any problems. Beyond just cooper alloy blocks I try to use high-quality barbs AND a coolant variant that has an anti-corrosion/pH buffer element, just in case.
 
Always use at least distilled water+pt nuke.

I perfer Feser premixed stuff as it kicks major ass.
 
I'm using FluidXP Ultra right now, because it's supposed to keep my tubes from getting cloudy. So far, after maybe 5-months, my tubes are still like glass.
 
:eek:$30. I'm willing to pay for it but does it really improve thermal conductivity and "Breaks down liquid surface tension, which helps in preventing foaming in very high flow systems."

Whats the disadvantage of PT_nuke antifreeze? According to PCApex, it is very good at carrying an electrical current.

Edit: the performance difference is quite large. I'll weigh the disadvantage of the PT_nuke and ultra. Results: http://reviews.pcapex.com/cooling/image.php?url=fluidxp_ultra-deltatempchart.gif

It said "So, let's revisit the question I asked earlier: "Should these coolants prove to be competitive in the cooling department, why would you NOT want to use them?" The only feasible answer to that question is price... and that is not even a good answer since a bottle of FluidXP Ultra costs about $30. Let's take a look at the numbers. I already informed you that FluidXP Ultra has a shelf life up to 5 years. Let's use a more conservative estimate of 3 years before changing the fluid in your loop when using Ultra. OK, now let's figure the costs for the cheapest (and best performing) coolant in the bunch; the homebrew mix. A bottle of antifreeze will run you about $8, Distilled Water for 3 years worth of fluid changings (once every 6 months for a total of 6 times) would run about $4; and the algaecide to prevent algae growth will cost about $10 or more. That would bring the total to around at least $22. Of course, you would be able to make even more than 3 years worth of coolant but it would be hard to find the parts for cheaper and/or in a smaller amount. So, we are left with an $8 difference, right? Essentially, you are paying about $8 to help protect and extend the life of your pump and radiator as well as the luxury of not going through the usual, tedious fluid replacement ritual every 6 months. A single bottle was enough to fill my water cooling loop which I would consider a little larger than most single block loops since it is installed in a large Mountain Mods case and I had to use quite a bit of tubing."

How true? How's my worm drive?
 
I've used FluidXP for a long time, because frankly I'm not a chemist. I just want my coolant to work and cover all the bases. So far my particular choice of premix has served me well. As far as clamps, I prefer the the vinyl ones. The look a lot better on don't overly compress my tubes. If you can find the sizes you need for your blocks and such, take a look at the bitspower compression fittings. The don't need clamps and look REALLY sweet too. BTW, good job of researching, YB. :)

edit: All commercial amd homebrew coolants become increasingly conductive over time.
 
Ah I see. They mentioned "you are paying about $8 to help protect and extend the life of your pump and radiator as well as the luxury of not going through the usual, tedious fluid replacement ritual every 6 months". It's reasonable, considering I'm having 2 separate loops with 2 120.3 + mcw655.

As for performance, it's about 4.5 degrees C between homebrew and the fulidXP ultra, which is rather high but again, reasonable for the longevity of my pump and radiator.

Yes, I've been thinking about compression fittings. How reliable is it? If it's reliable, then the only clamps I have to use is for the thermochill rad.

Thank you!
 
4.5c difference? That's huge! Can you link that review? Compression fittings are very reliable in my experience. They're big though and heavy, which meant I couldn't put them everywhere. I've seen them on TC rads too. ;)
 
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