FX55 Too hot?

[DeathMan]

I just installed watercooling on my cpu and gpu...

got the Apogee waterblock on the CPU and running stock i'm getting ~43*C idle...

is this bad?

running SP2004 i get around 55*C.. i have the swiftech 2 fan radiator, with fans that are more powerful than god (and louder...) blowing on them.

should i try reseating the block or is this normal?

the cpu is a Clawhammer core, so i guess they run hotter than the 90nm's

btw i'm getting around 40*C stock on the 6800 Ultra

i'm really just trying to get to 2.8 - 3.0 ghz on this cpu (runs 2.6 stock) and changing the fsb to 216 X 13mult when i run 3dmark 05 it crashes halfway thru.... just stops completely... should i up the voltage?

sorry if i sound like an idiot... it's partly because... i am..

anyhow, any help is appreciated.. gunna run stock until i figure out what good temps are

 

[L1ght]

I would try to reseat it, if you can. I also have a clawhammer, temp sensor on my mobo doesnt work tho, so I cant compare temps with you. Temps do seem a little high, how much themal paste are you using? You only need a little.

 

[dtess17]

temps seem to be on the high side, you could have a bad temp sensor, what were they with air?

otherwise reseat, and reapply the thermal paste.

 

[DeathMan]

temps were a little high on air.. of course i don't remember, being the stupid that i am...

i'll try and reseat (i was trying to avoid having to do that )

i have the Abit 32X mobo.. don't know how accurate their temps are, and i doubt i can get a more accurate reading w/ a different temp probe... also... i don't have another temp probe

any more helps?? like, anybody know how accurate the probes on the Abit are?

 

[DeathMan]

now i'm starting to think the temp probes on the mobo are inaccurate...

when i start up aim for instance, the temp on uguru will jolt up to 60*C, but immediately after (it stays at 60 for about a second) it will go back down to ~40

could a temp probe be that bad?

again, suggestions are welcome...

 

[dtess17]

ABIT did have some trouble with it's probes back on the p4 boards...could be it's true again.


I would reseat to be safe

 

[rohcky]

now i'm starting to think the temp probes on the mobo are inaccurate...

when i start up aim for instance, the temp on uguru will jolt up to 60*C, but immediately after (it stays at 60 for about a second) it will go back down to ~40

could a temp probe be that bad?

again, suggestions are welcome...

Mobo sensors can be very off. Lavalys says my 3200+ venice's temps fluctuate between 90c and 110c. I repeat, celsius.

 

[DeathMan]

lol... that can't be right...

or ur computer would be on fire..... wewt

 

[Danith]

lol... that can't be right...

or ur computer would be on fire..... wewt

I've got my 6800GT up to 95C before.. It didn't start on fire...

the computer locked up after about 4-5 mins though

 

[Bbq]

before I reseated it, my Opteron 146 + Zalman CNPS7700 was idling at 55, loading at 70.

Then I found out I forgot to remove the plastic cover on the bottom.

 

[DeathMan]

lmao

that's funny..

i'll reseat the apogee when i get a chance....

probably sometime next millenium

 

[DeathMan]

welll i got around to it.. my rad was leaking, so i fixed that and also used all tygon tubing...

anyways.... i'm getting the same temps..... i completely cleaned the apogee and the FX and i still got the same temps...

Alex (read sig) says that the backplate on the mobo (abit an8 32X) is ubercrap, so it would be mounting wrong.... i don't like that idea because it means i would have to take off the waterblock again...

so i'm just hoping the probe is f'd up...

any suggestiones senor?

 

[theseeker]

The only accurate way to check temps is by using inline temp sensors. MB monitors and the like are a complete waste of time, of course this is my 2 cents and my opinion.
I had an FX-55 a few months back OC'd to the max and I never registerd temps like yours.
Once again, the H20 temps are the important thing. TG for Aquasuite. JMO.

 

[Alex41290]

The only accurate way to check temps is by using inline temp sensors. MB monitors and the like are a complete waste of time, of course this is my 2 cents and my opinion.
I had an FX-55 a few months back OC'd to the max and I never registerd temps like yours.
Once again, the H20 temps are the important thing. TG for Aquasuite. JMO.

I was talking to him and I told him that it could very well be a crappy temp sensor as well. The thing about the backplate is that the holes for the mounting screws stick out seemingly much too far. This could create a situation with inadequate contact on the core, but I really don't know for sure. I tried looking for some other people with the same mobo and using watercooling, but didn't come up with much.

Besides that I told him to try it out with the Asus A8N that he has sitting around, as maybe the temp sensors are a bit more accurate or the mounting plate problem might be fixed. I really don't know, just trying to toss out possible suggestions

 

[DeathMan]

liking the probe ideas.... easier.... i think

what would be the best way to monitor the cpu?

if it is getting bad contact, that wouldn't be shown in a probe in the water (in the tubing or whatnot).... so should i just put a probe... i dunno....


that's why i'm asking you!

 

[mwin]

Do you have the most recent BIOS update? With my FX-55 and AV8 mobo, the temp readings on the CPU were outrageous with the BIOS that came on the board. The BIOS update that came out not too long after the FX-55s fixed the problem.

 

[DeathMan]

i think i have the newest...

i'll flash again when i get home

 

[phide]

Inline water temperatures can't tell you if you have a poor mount, but they CAN be used to start establishing baselines. By using a single probe at some point after the block outlet, you have an accurate way to measure water temperature fluctuations. It is possible, with highly accurate probes, to determine whether a mount is comparatively poor or comparatively good by gauging increases in coolant temperature. Mounting a probe to the side of the IHS can also allow you to begin establishing baselines, and you can begin to correlate data with the inline sensor.

The backplate may be an issue here. Although I'm not familiar with the Abit backplates, I know that the DFI backplates prohibit proper mounting (the bolts will just spin around when a minor amount of torque is applied). It's generally fine, on IHS covered procs, to go a little crazy with mounting pressure. Experiment with dropping the backplate, FIRMLY secure the bolts by using nylon washers and nuts and then mount your block. Direct it down the bolts, make sure it's fairly level, apply firm pressure in the center (tricky with the Apogee, but grabbing either fitting should be pretty adequate - or both at once!) and then secure it with the wingnuts. Try to avoid removing pressure while securing it. I'd do this once or twice with thermal paste, checking the paste each time the block is removed. If you see any "veins" or it looks like the paste is not spreading, your mounting pressure is inadequate. If the paste looks nice, flat and uniform, and covers most of the IHS, you've found the right amount of TIM and mounting pressure.

AS5, and other TIMs, can require some significant curing time. AS5 tends to settle best when significant heat loads are introduced for short periods of time and then removed. Load the proc for an hour or two, then shut the machine off for an hour or two. Repeat this three or four times, and the TIM will be significantly settled. You can then gauge how good the mount is and if you want to re-mount.

I'd advise to not check the onboard sensor at all. If you're satisfied with your overclock, and it's as stable as you want it to be, then you should be satisfied with the performance of the cooling system.