Future build

[antiv6]

I am building a new rig in a few weeks and I want to water cool it.

The parts I have so far are:
1x Laing D5 pump
1x Apogee GT CPU water block
1x Swiftech Micro Res
1x R600 full GPU waterblock or G80 Block
4x Yate Loons D12SH-12 Fans
1x Swiftech UV reactive Coolant
10' of Masterclear 3/8's tubing
and either a Swiftech/Black Ice GT 120.2 or 120.3 radiator

A few questions I have are:
- How much better would the temps be from a 120.3 radiator instead of a 120.2 rad?
- I really want to install this kit inside of an Antec P 180B or a Thermaltake Armor case. How hard is it to install the radiator inside the case?
- Is this a good system for a first time builder?

 

[Arcygenical]

Do you OWN those parts already? They're fairly good choices, but I've got a few changes I think would benefit you.

The triple would be a good idea, but it's not exactly required. Swiftech rads >>>>> Black Ice GTS radiators, so grab the MCR320.

Going from a double to a triple radiator (system 01 in sig, everything Wc'd except drives) netted me a drop of 6c, going to a quad rad netted me another 4c.

 

[MakubexGB]

I would get:

1x DDC 18w pump with Petra's top
1x D-Tek Fuzion CPU water block
1x Reservoir is up to you
1x Swiftech MCW60 w/ G80 Adapter Plate + blue Zalman Ramsinks and zip tie a couple of fans under the video card
6x Yate Loons D12SH-12 Fans + Fan Controller (unless you get a Heatercore, then I would get 2 x Sanyo Denki San Ace fans)
1x Pentosin + PT_Nuke
10' of Masterkleer 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD
and either a Swiftech 120.3 radiator or a Heatercore (assuming you don't have enough money for a Thermochill or just don't want to spend that much)

 

[antiv6]

Do you OWN those parts already? They're fairly good choices, but I've got a few changes I think would benefit you.

The triple would be a good idea, but it's not exactly required. Swiftech rads >>>>> Black Ice GTS radiators, so grab the MCR320.

Going from a double to a triple radiator (system 01 in sig, everything Wc'd except drives) netted me a drop of 6c, going to a quad rad netted me another 4c.

No I don't have these parts yet, so change what ya like.

@MakubexGB: Those componets seem a little expensive, I kind of want to keep it ~$250 + ~$125 for the GPU block.

EDIT: Do you mean this pump Makubex? Link

 

[Ranker]

Questions answered

1) You'll see anywhere from 5c-13c drop in temps, especially if you keep everything in one loop by going from a 2x120mm rad to a 3x120mm rad.

2) If your mind is set between one of those two cases, I'd go with the Armor case. I've done builds with the armor cases and they can fit a lot of things internally. You can strip out the bottom HD rack and fit an entire 3x120mm rad in the drive bay area and keep everything internal. You can't do that with a P180.

3) That's a great system you're building. My only advice would be to get a DDC-2 pump w/ Petra's top instead of the D5 and to go with the Swiftech Rads instead of black ice.

 

[MakubexGB]

No I don't have these parts yet, so change what ya like.

@MakubexGB: Those componets seem a little expensive, I kind of want to keep it ~$250 + ~$125 for the GPU block.

EDIT: Do you mean this pump Makubex? Link

A little expensive? Besides the small extra cost of the pump and even smaller extra cost of the tubing, I saved you like $60 on the GPU block and it will give you lower temps. The rest of the components have about the same price.

Yes, that's the pump I'm talking about. If you don't want to have to assemble it you can also get it from here: LINK

 

[antiv6]

A little expensive? Besides the small extra cost of the pump and even smaller extra cost of the tubing, I saved you like $60 on the GPU block and it will give you lower temps. The rest of the components have about the same price.

Yes, that's the pump I'm talking about. If you don't want to have to assemble it you can also get it from here: LINK

Assembling it wont be a problem.

What is so good about the DDC-2? I see that it is immune to galvanic corrosion, but the flow rate is noticeably less than the D5(933.5 LPH to 1200 LPH).

Thanks for helping guys.

 

[MakubexGB]

Assembling it wont be a problem.

What is so good about the DDC-2? I see that it is immune to galvanic corrosion, but the flow rate is noticeably less than the D5(933.5 LPH to 1200 LPH).

Thanks for helping guys.

The maximum head, which is even more important then max flow. It also has a lower heat dump.

 

[Ranker]

The maximum head, which is even more important then max flow. It also has a lower heat dump.

Maku knows his stuff. Flow rate means nothing for pumps. How much pressure it can exert is more important as it must force water through all of the blocks and tubing. Think of it this way..when they measure flowrate, they just pour water in the inlet and measure how fast water fills up a jug. It doesn't take the restriction of the loop into consideration. It's just how fast water empties from one end to another.

Head pressure is all that matters. Heat dump is a secondary concern.

 

[antiv6]

The maximum head, which is even more important then max flow. It also has a lower heat dump.

Maku knows his stuff. Flow rate means nothing for pumps. How much pressure it can exert is more important as it must force water through all of the blocks and tubing. Think of it this way..when they measure flowrate, they just pour water in the inlet and measure how fast water fills up a jug. It doesn't take the restriction of the loop into consideration. It's just how fast water empties from one end to another.

Head pressure is all that matters. Heat dump is a secondary concern.

Thanks for the help guys, I thought Flow rate was one of the more important things. I am going to use the list that MakubexGB made but only use 3 Yate Loons.

 

[Ranker]

Flow rate matters only when in relation to the speed of the water traveling through the water blocks themselves. However, it means nothing when dealing with pumps themselves. You want good flow rate, but that's achieved by using unrestrictive blocks AND have a pump with great head pressure.