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Fullproof watercooling

M

mdawg

Weaksauce
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Messages
79
I want to pullproof watercooling since none of my parts(major) have a warranty on them anymore. I want to get teh MCW6000 waterblock(discontined but good), and then take two 1/2' diameter pipes and weld/braze them on the waterblock. That way instead of having hose with clamps over my main parts its a nicley done connection that cant be messed with to leak. Thoughts?
 
Since the block you want is copper you can't weld or braze to it but you can sweat solder to it. Here's the kicker though, if you heat the barbs enough to solder them to another pipe you'll most likely succeed in desoldering them from the block.

Back to the drawing board...you might consider using an epoxy to attach the pipe to the block's barbs. You could solder the piping together and use JB Weld or something similar to attach the barbs. Just be aware that if you use 100% hard-lines after the system is hooked up it's all one solid piece.
 
ya, if you want something full proof, stick with air cooling. Watercooling can be just as safe "if you know what you are doing"
 
I think you underestimate properly used hose clamps. And if you're really worried about a leak, go with a non-conductive coolant like MCT-5 or PC-Ice.
 
Everyone seems to tell me the non-conductive will "eventually" get conductive. but I have never seen one test of people doing this and showing how long it takes to become conductive. If anything, non-conductive solution plus using epoxy on the pipes where it connects. I think thats pretty fullproof if you cant weld or anything with it.
 
BioPort said:
am i the only one who sees the irony of the thread title?
Click to expand...
nope, and i think its even more comical because more than one person has used that term in this thread.
 
i think someone who cant spell correctly shouldnt be trying watercooling.
 
FOOL PROOF!!!! I can't believe three other people came in here and kept saying "fullproof" arghhh!!! The internet is destroying the english language.

It *is* technically do-able to make a loop out of copper tubing. I have seen it done before. However it is incredibly difficult. Aside from the obvious difficulties of brazing the tubing to the block, you also need to get the tubing bent and cut exactly perfectly or it wont line up. It really isn't worth it because you lose the flexibility of adding something to the loop. It makes cleaning things out and performing maintenance a real pain. And if something were to break it makes replacing it hard as well.

Just get some worm clamps, use non-conductive coolant if you want (I would recommend MCT-5), and perform a full length 24-hour leak test. If you are careful with setting everything up there should be no problems at all.
 
HeC eyes don even bees usen the worm thingy's an mines don't be drippen.... w0000t
 
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