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Found a sweet pump for under $20!!!!!!

S

Six

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 15, 2002
Messages
353
Found a sweet pump for under $20 at Fleetfarm.
attwood a750 aerator pump.
750gph 12v dc.

On another note, anyone know how to fix radiator leaks because I melted some solder off? :(
I fixxed some of the obvious spots but the holes are in the center? fill the hole up with solder??? JB weld??? or just buy a new rad???
 
how much head does it get?

edit: i found my own answer, it gets 11 feet max head. so long as it is reliable and quiet it sounds like a good unit.
 
Anything that pushes that much water will dump more heat into the loop than it's worth....
 
The price is right, my rad is huge so i dont think that will be a problem..... who knows. :D
 
please let us know what kind of results you get.

it may not be the best pump out there, but that is a very sweet price, and it has 12V convience, which the similarly priced via 1300 does not.
 
With A large Rad (Or maybe 2 rad's with this much water.) And maybe 2*120 fans. I think this would be a good hi-flo WC pump =D. Let me know if you get it and how it works.
 
Clamp those hoses tight, or your computer might turn into a fountain :D

And radiator repair can be done with solder and a good soldering iron, or with a torch. Either way you have to be careful that you don't end up melting solder elsewhere. A radiator repair place might be able to fix it for cheap, call some up.
 
this is a marine bilge pump, so there are a few drawbacks to using these:

these pumps are almost invaribly rated for "intermitt" use, meaning there are NOT designed to run 24/7 - it kind of the same principle as a car starter, they are designed for short periods of use, more then that tends to burn them up

they tend to be loud, as they are more of little screamers then workhorses. These pumps are designed to pump a fairly small volume of water fast, and then be turned off. I remember everytime my pop turned on the pump in our boat, that sucker would scream


long story short, even if it works, no way in hell would i trust this pump with anything i considered valuable in a system :eek:
 
IT is NOT a marine bilge pump it is a arrerator pump for a livewell. Now if I'm correct it would operate as long as the boat is on so, no not intermitant use.

oh and im going to go get a new rad, $20 is worth the security.
 
Six said:
The price is right, my rad is huge so i dont think that will be a problem..... who knows. :D
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter how big your radiator is. Check the ProCooling forum for a thead titled "How much pump is enough" It shows that as you increase the flowrate performance tends to increase. However, there's a point where the pump is dumping too much heat into the water that it negates all performace increases and starts to decrease the performance...
 
Maximus825 said:
It doesn't matter how big your radiator is. Check the ProCooling forum for a thead titled "How much pump is enough" It shows that as you increase the flowrate performance tends to increase. However, there's a point where the pump is dumping too much heat into the water that it negates all performace increases and starts to decrease the performance...
Click to expand...
so long as it can do as good or better at cooling than the via aqua 1300, then it is a great pump. $20 bucks man! it doesn't need to be the best performing pump out there at that price, since other DC pumps with that level of head cost 4 times as much.
 
Maximus825 said:
However, there's a point where the pump is dumping too much heat into the water that it negates all performace increases and starts to decrease the performance...
Click to expand...
Someone's got pump envy ;)

And the radiator does matter, if the radiator is big enough your water will always be cooled to ambient, even if you've got a hot pump. So while a really hot pump might be too much for a Boneville HC, there's always quad-heatercores that could handle them :D
 
My main concern with this pump is the size and the amps it draws. If you've got a big case great give it a try.

But do keep in mind the pump draws 4 amps from your 12v rail. Here is what some other pc cooling pumps draw:

CSP Mag =.66 amps
MCP 600 = .75 amps
DD D4 = 1.25 amps
DD DDC = .9 amps

Make sure you have a nice fat beefy power supply.
Heat wise, that pump probably puts around about 43 watts of heat into your water. A decent amount but not too much if the rest of your components are good.
 
ok thx for the info. My water system is DD RBX, The pump mentioned above and a boniville hc.

On another note, what do you all find to be the nessary amount of pressure to apply to hose clamps, this is my first system after all. Should I try to put silicone sealant on the connections.
 
sealant on the barbs is probably overkill.

a fair number of people use cute little plastic pinch-on clamps without problems. as long as you tighten your gear clamps down firmly with an appropriately sized screwdriver, then that should be fine.

i've tried narrow gear clamps before, and they really did a number on the tubing, the wider ones the i get at home depot don't seem to have that particular problem.
 
That thing maybe 12v but how many amps does it pull? Sounds like an awful lot of pump, just make sure you dont have ANY restrictios, like 90 degree bends and sharp turns in your hose. Restriction causes pressure and at 700+gph it will build up fast.
 
Guys,
This sounds like a lot of pump...
But there isn't any rule against putting a PWM speed control on it or even just a reostat.
Either would slow it down or allow you to match the flow to the system it's in.

And he's right about the live well thing. A buddy of mine keeps his livewell running for days at a time, before he puts bait in it or goes fishing. He says it "seasons" the tank. Go figure.

 
plywood99 said:
My main concern with this pump is the size and the amps it draws. If you've got a big case great give it a try.

But do keep in mind the pump draws 4 amps from your 12v rail. Here is what some other pc cooling pumps draw:

CSP Mag =.66 amps
MCP 600 = .75 amps
DD D4 = 1.25 amps
DD DDC = .9 amps

Make sure you have a nice fat beefy power supply.
Heat wise, that pump probably puts around about 43 watts of heat into your water. A decent amount but not too much if the rest of your components are good.
Click to expand...

If it's too much he could always get a second cheap PSU. one of the ones that we would never use in our systems for the cpu.


 
Six,
Keep in mind that this thing is a through the bulkhead style pump.
That means it wants to be mounted through the side of a reservoir. And a pretty big one at that, a 5 1/4 bay res wont cut it with this baby.

You could modify it but it will be easier just to find something to use as a res.

If you want to mod it. you'll have to find a 90-degree bracket for it to mount it with. and find a threaded PVC end-cap. Trim the threaded bulkhead stub down a little and screw on the end cap. Drill and tap the endcap to fit your choice of barb. The endcap can act as the securing nut to hold the pump in the 90-degree bracket.

I was thinking about doing something similar, with a livewell pump that I found at wallyworld. And I found the perfect res for it. Go to HomeDepot or Lowes and look around in the electrical section. They'll have a lot of PVC switch enclosures and junction boxes. the one I found would hold about 1/2 gallon of fluid and had an O-ring seal on the top cover. It was gray and ugly but it would work.

I didn't do it at the time because my case didn't have room for it. Still wouldn't.

Good luck with it.

 
Wow, nice find. I just hope that it will not die in a year or so after continuous use. Good lukc with it.

I actually tried to find a chart or something giving head loss and flow, but I couldnt find one, only that it pumps 690 or so gph at 2' head, which is excellent nonetheless. I would assume that the head is good at lower flow...
 
Well, im not using a res at all for the moment, giving that a shot, if I have to I can get a bigger tank. I have yet to test the system, the water block just came today, I will let you all know how it goes.
 
Yeah Six, let us know how that badboy works. Nothing like trying out the untried...
 
You can be the guinea pig... er, test subject. :D

If it works then we can all tell these $100.00+ pump makers to go jump!

 
Six,
Once you get the six-pack and half-bottle of valium out of your system....
What - exactly - exploded?
Is there any way to salvage it?
If it exploded from too much pressure build up, maybe you should try a res. Leave some room for air and put a breather vent in it. Heat could have caused the water to expand increasing the pressure in the system. And if it didn't have anywhere for the extra volume to go - the she go BOOM!

Good Luck & try again!

 
HAHA it didn't explode, just kidding. I ran it overnight, had one small not even a drip leak that went away by morning, but the pump is cavitating, makes it kind of loud. other wise on a scale 10(delta screamer)-0(dream fan) I give it a 7 for noise. I may part with it to go to a different pump but I still want to test it in overclocking... I will have results today.
 
on the subject of cavitation: are you running closed loop, or open?

an open T line with at least a foot of watercolumn will greatly reduce pressure fluctuations, and help with cavitation.
 
Ok, I will give that a shot, I can run it either open or closed, but I do only have 4 in of water in the pipe.
 
Six said:
Ok, I will give that a shot, I can run it either open or closed, but I do only have 4 in of water in the pipe.
Click to expand...
is the T right before the pump inlet?

if you can see the water bobbing up and down in the tube while the pump is opperating, then the T is doing it's job properly.
 
Its right before the inlet and it is taking on the bubbles in the water, the cavitating is almost gone, i cant see any bubbles.

temps right now:
25c stock speeds on my 3000+ winchester more to come.
 
37,38C running prime95, any good :D :confused: :D


I have yet to build a shroud for the rad, thats todays project.


I heard some people remove their heatspreader, what do you all know about this process...?
 
Another question, the second I turned prime on my temps jumped instanly, is this normal? I though it would be smooth increase in temps.
 
is 25 C you idle temp at stock speed? is 38C your prime temp at stock speed? what is your room temperature while doing this? how beefy are the fans on your rad?

my diode temps change pretty rapidly, my socket temps change slowly. i'm on an a32, though. it may be different for a64.
 
Guess that sounds confusing
25c stock speed Idle
36-38c load, room temp is around 20-22c
 
You left water on my floor last night, SiX.

Later!

PS - Compliments on the nice job with the dremel tool.
 
you could have a y fitting that has a 1/2" inlet from the pump outlet and another 1/2" outlet to feed the system then a 3/8" tube to a rad to the res so the built up pressure would bleed off and also be cooled/restricted so all the flow isnt diverted from the system
 
wow diggin around in the thread basement, lol im not even watercooling currently. Im not sure if anyone else has tried this pump, i went through 2 of them and gave up, they only lasted me about 2 months and then would crap out.(i think because i overspun them while filling though...)
 
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