First WC Project: Complete loop in my 600T

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Intro:
I've decided for various reasons to do my first WC project on my current computer. I've been gaming and building since my college days and I've never dabbled in the water cooling stuff. So here I am doing a complete loop on my sig rig!

Goals:
Whether you agree with them or not, here is my rationale for putting my PC under H20:

  1. Quiet down my system (whiny GPU under load);
  2. Drop my temps for more overclocking (probable won't OC the GPU much if at all);
  3. Experiment and learn another realm of custom PC building;
  4. And build the WC setup to be easily upgradable and adaptable to new components.
The Parts!:
Purchased from Performance-PCs with my 10% off code, NewEgg and a couple of EK radiators purchased from another [H] member. Misc. stuff I already had or am picking up from the Lowes down the road.

  1. XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit
  2. XSPC Rasa Universal GPU block
  3. Arctic Cooling VRM heatsink kit
  4. Scythe Kaze Master fan controller / temp monitor
  5. Qty2 EK XT120 radiators
  6. Additional fittings and tubing
IMAG0079.jpg

IMAG0078.jpg

IMAG0077.jpg


To be continued... The build has begun and more details and photos of the install are to follow! Subscribe and leave your questions and comments, thanks! :D
 
Last edited:

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
First off, the quality of the XSPC parts are outstanding! Everything has a great finish, plenty of fasteners and thermal paste (though likely not the best in the world), and all well packaged. But let me also add that they include nearly NO instructions! But that's okay, as I'm not a noob at turning a wrench and I've been browsing the interwebs and drooling over WC loop photos and studying closely.

Swapping out the Intel bracket for the AMD; simple:
IMAG0091.jpg

IMAG0092.jpg

IMAG0093.jpg

IMAG0101.jpg

IMAG0096.jpg


Installing the res next; a little bit of trouble, but nothing a file can't fix...
 
Last edited:

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Got the res/pump in. It doesn't quite fit properly. The reservoir is about 2mm too wide. I had to file down the inside of the case. But it's in now!

IMAG0086.jpg

IMAG0089.jpg

IMAG0090.jpg
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
The Corsair 600T is a great case, no doubt. But it needed a little attention to get squared away and quieted down. The hexagonal mesh found on the fan ports is actually quite noisy. So, I got rid of it (and just though, I still need to cut out the rear 120mm exhaust).

IMAG0133.jpg

IMAG0136.jpg

IMAG0137.jpg

IMAG0139.jpg

IMAG0157.jpg

IMAG0158.jpg


And this is how my PC currently sits. I'm still waiting on my EK rads to show up. Not sure exactly when they will, but it should be any day now. Once they come in I can start plumbing it up and leak testing. I'll be using distilled water.
IMAG0162.jpg





 

Joe S

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
446
Nice work so far. Looking forward to seeing how this finishes up.
 

sabregen

Fully [H]
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
19,502
I have the same XSPC kit, and I'm concerned about your head pressure going through two extra rads.
 

sabregen

Fully [H]
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
19,502
you may need to add another pump before you go from the XSPC rad into your GPU block(s) and then into the additional rads. I've used the MCP355s and the 655s and Liang D5s with and without Petra's modifications, and I can honestly say that I was surprised at how low-flow the XSPC kit was when I fired it up.

I'd love to add more rads and put my GPUs into the loop, but I think I'd be better off just running a second loop, after seeing the XSPC pump in action.
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
I'm eager to get this WCing thing done, because I was last playing through the Gothic series and I've got the itch to play! But I want to take my time and do this thing right.

Okay, here we go: water cooling the GPU. This is a ZNFC non-reference card. Rockstar card.

Just a couple of screws and the stock HSF comes off:
IMAG0112.jpg

IMAG0113.jpg


Here's the Arctic Cooling VR001 heatsink kit and where they'll be located:
IMAG0116.jpg


Small problem: the XSPC rasa block barbs interfere with the middle two heatsinks and the edge of the one on the left:
IMAG0117.jpg


Problem [Solved]: just had to grind them down a little:
IMAG0120.jpg

IMAG0121.jpg


Semi-finished product: the 5870 now under water and looking good! Having the universal block will be great whenever I move on to the next card. No proprietary full cover blocks for me right now.
IMAG0125.jpg


Coming right along! I'll keep you posted with more. :D
 

AdvanSuper

Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
826
you may need to add another pump before you go from the XSPC rad into your GPU block(s) and then into the additional rads. I've used the MCP355s and the 655s and Liang D5s with and without Petra's modifications, and I can honestly say that I was surprised at how low-flow the XSPC kit was when I fired it up.

I'd love to add more rads and put my GPUs into the loop, but I think I'd be better off just running a second loop, after seeing the XSPC pump in action.

I'd just sell the XSPC res/pump combo and get their DDC res and a 355 for a single loop.


Think I'll be alright with just the XSPC RS240 + EK XT120?

I'm more concerned about flow rate, but your temps should be fine with the 240+120mm and hopefully you have enough pressure to drive all of that with the XSPC pump. Before you start the PC do the PSU paper clip trick and see what your flow rate looks like when it's all hooked up with water.
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
I'd just sell the XSPC res/pump combo and get their DDC res and a 355 for a single loop.

I'm more concerned about flow rate, but your temps should be fine with the 240+120mm and hopefully you have enough pressure to drive all of that with the XSPC pump. Before you start the PC do the PSU paper clip trick and see what your flow rate looks like when it's all hooked up with water.

Cool, thanks. Yeah, I've got the included little 24pin jumper thing that XSPC hooked up. I'll make sure nothing leaks and that the flow is good before powering the PC up. I'm counting on the fact that the same pump is used on the RS360. This may be relatively close to my 240 + 120. And then I'm relying on margin to make up for the GPU block, haha. I got tired of theorizing and decided to buy it and try it out. :)
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
I did another little mod: I combined to PCI slow accessories. I took the USB3 pass-thru bracket and my CMOS reset switch and "combined" them. All I did really is cut out a hole for the USB3 cable to pass through. Clean up the rear and reduces the number of slots taken up. Bonus :D
IMAG0152.jpg

IMAG0153.jpg
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
I need some 120mm fan suggestions for my loop. I've got the stock XSPC fans (decent) and a bunch of CM fans w/ sleeve bearings. But I'll need some better ones. Suggestions?
 

AdvanSuper

Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
826
If you want silence and budget is not an issue then you should look for Gentle Typhoon AP14's.
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
If you want silence and budget is not an issue then you should look for Gentle Typhoon AP14's.

Something like [ame="http://compare.ebay.com/like/260806984336?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y"]this on eBay[/ame] seem like a good deal?
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
How about an MCP655? Based on what I've read around the net it should be plenty for my loop. Ya think?

Update: Still waiting on my EK rads, so the PC is out of commission for now. So eager to get it back together! But the same gentlemen I bough the EK rads from is selling some other great stuff, including the aforementioned pump. I'm thinking I will go with a few of ya'lls suggestions to sell the XSPC X20 750 pump/res while it's new and buy up a nice deal on the [H].
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Just picked up a new pump, pump top and res from CrazyV! The MCP655 should have plenty of umph right? And the smaller res will allow me to keep my card reader in. And there was much rejoicing... :D

Here's what's coming soon:
MCP655_01.jpg

D5_X-topV2_01.jpg

Tecnofront-Eagle_01.jpg
 

AdvanSuper

Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
826
You should be good. Just double check your fittings and tubing to make sure all is secure before filling it up!
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
I've been toiling over the tubing because I'm not a huge fan of the clear tubing that comes with the XSPC kit. So I went to Lowes and got black vinyl tubing. But It's just a hair too small:
IMAG0174-1.jpg


Rather than order new tubing I decided to mod my existing clear tubing; mad scientist style!. Break out the beakers!!!
IMAG0176.jpg


Rubber gloves, old pot, RIT dye and the clear vinyl tubing; check. Let's get to it!... I got this trick from my old RC car days, taking white plastic parts and dying them colors. And as you can see the results are quite impressive! That color is all the way through the tubing and as black as midnight:
IMAG0177.jpg


If you've never done this before; fear not! It's very easy. The biggest thing is make sure you don't have anything around you don't want dyed.

  1. Gather together: rubber gloves, old pot, RIT dye (available at any pharmacy or grocery store; laundry section usually)
  2. Mix the RIT dye and water (I like to use a good amount of dye (1/8 - 1/4 of the package)
  3. Set to medium heat on the stove (don't let it boil!!)
  4. Once warm, drop the heat to low and lower in the tubing (or whatever you're dying)
  5. Let it sit awhile (10 minutes or so). If doing tubing, make sure there's no bubbles inside.
  6. Turn off the heat and carefully withdraw the tubing from the pot and rinse off and let it dry!
The end! I'm just killing time til my parts come in. It'll probably be later in the week, but I'll be ready!
 

magoo

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
14,492
Question: do you run the RIT dye through the inside of the tube? I'd be concerned over time that the dye would spoil and run into the copper parts of the water blocks.

Second: on your GPU, consider using 90 degree compression fittings. That would place the tubing up and away from the modded heatsinks. I'd be a little concerned with the tubing so close to the sinks.....once those sinks get hot, they could damage the tube and cause a leak.:eek:

Last: when those Rads arrive, rinse the shit out of them to remove left over flux. EK has had some really suspect QC lately. Not saying anything will be wrong, but just clean them well and look for any defects.:p
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Question: do you run the RIT dye through the inside of the tube? I'd be concerned over time that the dye would spoil and run into the copper parts of the water blocks.

Second: on your GPU, consider using 90 degree compression fittings. That would place the tubing up and away from the modded heatsinks. I'd be a little concerned with the tubing so close to the sinks.....once those sinks get hot, they could damage the tube and cause a leak.:eek:

Last: when those Rads arrive, rinse the shit out of them to remove left over flux. EK has had some really suspect QC lately. Not saying anything will be wrong, but just clean them well and look for any defects.:p


  1. Yes, the dye is all the way through the tubing. It's not going anywhere. Once it's in, it's in. :) The wonders of thermoplastics. I've done this before on an old college project (portable water purifier) and it's still good to go.
  2. Yeah, didn't think of that. I'll have to keep any eye on the temps of those sinks. May need to shield the tubing or add the elbows like you said.
  3. I've heard stories of the flux in rads. I think I'll run some distilled water through the rads a few times (including the XSPC one) just to make sure.
  4. Thanks for the input! :D
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Just hot water. Think dipping the end in boiling water will do it? Only thing is after getting it on I'd be afraid I wouldn't be able to get it off w/o cutting it off. :(
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Update: just dipped the tip in boiling water and pressed it onto the fitting. I had to persuade it on with a small flathead screwdriver. The fitting has an OD of 1/2" and the tubing has ID of 3/8", OD is 1/2". So I'm stretching the tube's ID to it's OD. The flow looks like it would still be just fine.

IMAG0180.jpg


It'd be great if I could use this stuff because I have a tone of quick disconnect fittings and T's! :D Which I will dye black.
IMAG0182.jpg
 
Last edited:

magoo

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
14,492
Only problem with putting the tube to fitting now.......you have to rotate the tubing to screw in the fitting.:mad:

Make sure to test the loop for leaks before you power up the components.:eek:
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
I've decided to try a little pre-stretching to the tubing; flaring the ends so that they are easier to slide onto the fittings. Here's what I did:

  1. Pressed a wirenut into the end of the tube:
    IMAG0185.jpg
  2. Dipped in simmering water; just below boiling; for about 10 sec.:
    IMAG0184.jpg
  3. Press the wirenut in MORE;
  4. Quench it in cold water so the tubing retains its flared shape:
    IMAG0186.jpg
  5. And remove the wirenut to reveal the flared tubing end:
    IMAG0188.jpg
Now the tubing fits snuggly yet fairly easily onto the fittings. And I'm able to work the tubing off the fitting without reheating or prying.
 

AdvanSuper

Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
826
Just hot water. Think dipping the end in boiling water will do it? Only thing is after getting it on I'd be afraid I wouldn't be able to get it off w/o cutting it off. :(

That's what you do for a tight fit. And you will be able to get it off without cutting, I've done it many times. You also shouldn't need a flat head or anything else to get it on if you soak it in the boiling water long enough.

Edit: No wonder why it doesn't fit that well you're using 3/8'ID with 1/2" fittings lol. Should have went 7/16"ID, you'll probably have to cut the tubing if you need to take anything apart.
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
That's what you do for a tight fit. And you will be able to get it off without cutting, I've done it many times. You also shouldn't need a flat head or anything else to get it on if you soak it in the boiling water long enough.

Edit: No wonder why it doesn't fit that well you're using 3/8'ID with 1/2" fittings lol. Should have went 7/16"ID, you'll probably have to cut the tubing if you need to take anything apart.

Yeah, I realize it isn't ideal. The tubing I dyed is in fact 1/2" ID, so i can use that if 6ft is enough. But I think I can make the 3/8" ID tubing work with flaring the ends. Seems good so far!

I've put some brass bushing in there while they cool and relax as a trial. Now they fit nicely on the 1/2" fittings:
IMAG0194.jpg


Edit: I don't believe I can find good call to reason on why to use this 3/8" ID tubing over the 1/2" ID tubing that came with the kit. Unless I really want/need to use my quick disconnect fittings or don't have enough of the larger tubing; I'll just use the bigger tubing.
 
Last edited:

AdvanSuper

Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
826
If you're using 1/2" ID on 1/2" fittings then you should use clamps or zipties to secure the tubing on the barb. The reason for 7/16 on 1/2 is because you just heat up the tubing pop it on and once it cools it's secure.
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Cool. I'm just assuming it's 1/2". Could be 7/16" for all I know. It is a tight fit when I push it on. And requires a screwdriver or strong fingers nails to pry off. Either way, I do have clamps :)

Question: I'm going to flush everything out before closing and running the loop. Do I need to flush it out with distilled water? Or can I flush it with regular water? Add vinegar? Thanks in advanced!
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
  1. What should I rinse my rads out with? Tap water? Distilled water? Vinegar? Gasoline? Elven blood?
  2. Should I use my second XT120 in the loop? (XT120 on the right below the res)
    IMAG0212.jpg
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Gee, thanks for all the input, haha. Guess no one else is as interested in this as I am. Oh well. Here we go anyways...

Got the rest of my parts in: MCP655 pump, EK X Top and a Tecnofront Eagle 5.25" reservoir:
IMAG0227.jpg


Then I flushed out the radiators and reservoir by pumping distilled water through them. Quite a bit of residue came out of the XSPC rad (I'm assuming this is flux, though it was sort of hard and could hear it 'ping' on the bottom of the catch pot):
IMAG0225.jpg


Got the radiators mounted up. Just barely enough clearance for the EK XT120. Because of how little room there is here, the fan is on the outside of the case. Not ideal, but it will work just the same:
IMAG0214.jpg


I chose to mount the pump on the side of the HDD cage. I used the neoprene adhesive-backed pad. It has some serious glue on it! Looks pretty good sitting there. The EK top is really nicely made:
IMAG0231.jpg


I ran all the tubing and had just enough from my XSPC kit to do it. Only about 3" to spare! The black tubing looks pretty slick. And I have plumbed so there are no hard bends or kinks:
IMAG0233.jpg


Made up a little funnel fixture to fill the loop with distilled water. I must say, filling it up was a pain. I even though that I had things plumbed backwards; my INs mixed with my OUTS. But it was all fine, just a little difficult for whatever reason. Lots of gargling, but still moving plenty of water:
IMAG0234.jpg


The reservoir is an interesting design. It's meant to remove and keep bubbles out of the loop. I'll have to wire up some LEDs behind this thing because it's pretty sweet looking.
IMAG0238.jpg


The pump has been doing its thing for about 12 hours now with no signs of leaks or issues. I'm at work now, but I showed my wife what to look for and told her just to shut it down if she sees any droplets. But I don't imagine I'll have any at this point. Having not seen my CPU/GPU temps yet, I must say that WCing is a pain in the butt. Fun, but a pain. When I get home from work today (might have to take off early :) ) I'm going to check it out and power it up. I'm eager to do some gaming! Temp testing first though, I guess...

:D
 

tangoseal

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
9,417
Buddy you have way too many rads for a gpu and CPU.

I'm running a 6990 and 4.8 ghz on a single 3 fan rad and my idle temps are 32 avg.

Under full load the gpu is maybe 48-50.

My 6970 in my Sig is not plugged in due to leaking waterblock on rma right now.
 

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Buddy you have way too many rads for a gpu and CPU.

I'm running a 6990 and 4.8 ghz on a single 3 fan rad and my idle temps are 32 avg.

Under full load the gpu is maybe 48-50.

My 6970 in my Sig is not plugged in due to leaking waterblock on rma right now.

Too many rads!?!? Two is too many? (120 + 240). Isn't that essentially what you have?
 
Last edited:

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438
Word from the wife is no leaks. This is outstanding!

I'm eager to get home and get this thing buttoned up so I can do some gaming! It will be interesting to see how water cooling works for me.
 

magoo

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
14,492
I like your setup.
Glad it worked out well.

Looks nice and tidy.

You used the space you have very well.

My only thought is I hate those bay reservoirs. I had a BP one just like that, looked real nice but was a pain in the ass if you had to drain the loop or fill it. I had a tube on top just like you do.
They have a tendancy to harbor air that just won't go away. thats why I use the Swiftech Micro-Res.

Just my 2 cents.:D
 
Top