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First Water Cooling Setup - Advice needed.

P

ProficienT

n00b
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
57
Here are my PC Specs.
Case:
800D​

Mainboard:
Asus extreme IV-Z​

CPU:
2600k​

GPU:
Asus GTX 580 DirectCUII - SLI​

PSU:
Silverstone 850​

RAM:
8gb G.Skill 1600Mhz CL7​

HDD:
OCZ Vertex 3 120gb​
WD Black 2tb​
Samsung Spinpoint 1tb​

Fans: 5x Scythe Tornado 120mm
1x 140mm Silverstone​
1x 140mm Noctua​





I am looking to spend a decent amount as i want to do it once and do it properly.

From what i gather,with absolutely no idea about watercooling.

I need Two of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...0_DCII_-_AcetalEN_Nickel.html?tl=g30c311s1351


One of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html?tl=g30c107s153


One of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5..._360_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Red.html?tl=g30c95s161


I also need a reservoir tubing and the other bits and pieces ( That i have no idea about )
I am looking to get White tubing and everything else ( The attachments and what not ) In black/red/white?

Can anyone give me advice on my current selections and what else i will 100% need.

All help is much appreciated.
 
Thanks caniba.

I will do the CPU. Currently have the H70 installed but im pretty sure the actual water cooling system will perform much better?

Probably not on the chipset, unless its more important than i realise?
Wont be going insane on the overclocks but will push it a little.
 
ProficienT said:
Thanks caniba.

I will do the CPU. Currently have the H70 installed but im pretty sure the actual water cooling system will perform much better?

Probably not on the chipset, unless its more important than i realise?
Wont be going insane on the overclocks but will push it a little.
Click to expand...

It will absolutely improve. I went from H60 to a custom loop, and my temps dropped a good 10-11*C on load, though with just slightly lower idle temps.

Don't worry about chipset cooling, just stick with CPU and GPUs, but to do that efficiently, you're going to want to do 2 rads: 1 after cpu and 1 after gpu for optimum cooling.

I'd say go with 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubing with some compression fittings where they fit (they look much cleaner). I grabbed some koolance 3/8 comp fittings on ebay at a good price. Also grab some yate loons 120mm fans for your rad(s). I got medium speed, and they work nicely.


caniba said:
Are you going to WC the cpu and chipset also or just the gpu's?

Check these sites for better selection and prices.

http://www.performance-pcs.com
Click to expand...

Good site, just ordered my gpu blocks from there.
Edit: I got my fans from fab-tech.com, but performance-pcs.com has good prices too
 
Last edited:
manofthem said:
Don't worry about chipset cooling, just stick with CPU and GPUs, but to do that efficiently, you're going to want to do 2 rads: 1 after cpu and 1 after gpu for optimum cooling.

I'd say go with 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubing with some compression fittings where they fit (they look much cleaner). I grabbed some koolance 3/8 comp fittings on ebay at a good price. Also grab some yate loons 120mm fans for your rad(s). I got medium speed, and they work nicely.
Click to expand...

Chipset cooling indeed is unnecessary unless you're aiming for the highest overclock you could possibly achieve using ridiculous amounts of voltage.

However, the advice about the radiator is wrong. Water temperature does not change much within a watercooling system, it just stays at an equilibrium point. At most there will be a maximum delta of 2 C within a properly set up loop (usually just means that flow rates are high enough).

3/8" ID 5/8" OD would be my suggestion, as they will bend much tighter without kinking than 3/8" ID 1/2" OD. If you like the looks of large tubing, go with 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. I personally use Primochill LRT tubing, UV Blue 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. Since you're using a MCP655, it'll be easiest if you get 1/2" ID tubing unless you get a custom top for it.

Compression fittings are nice, but can be up to 3-4 times as expensive over barb fittings. Average low price for one is ~$8, and in a typical system with one radiator, reservoir, and block, you need 6, which comes out to $46 in just fittings alone.

The Swiftech Micro-Res V2 is my favorite budget reservoir. If you're not on a budget, pick out something that appeals to you. They're all the same, they just store water.

Don't ever forget the silver killcoil or PT Nuke.

If you go with UV reactive tubing, don't forget UV Cold Cathode tubes. I use a pair of 12" ones, connected to a sound sensor (flashes the lights to sounds, pretty cool when it is flashing to music you're playing).
 
I'll agree with pretty much everything that has been stated, and i'll provide another option to consider:

instead of going with the full cover EK blocks, you can save yourself some money and gain some potential re-usability by going with a universal GPU block, such as this http://www.swiftech.com/mcw82vgawaterblock.aspx#tab4, with some memory sinks such as these http://www.swiftech.com/mc14bgamemoryramsinks.aspx and mosfet sinks like these http://www.swiftech.com/mc21mosfetheatsinks.aspx.

Those are just links from one manufacturer. Take a look around some of the mentioned sites for other similar options. I don't own any of these water cooling parts myself, but i'm planning on watercooling my next build and these were things i was considering to save some money. Also, the idea of being able to reuse some parts for future upgrades is definitely a plus. Just save the stock cooling for future resale for upgrades.
 
Tsumi said:
However, the advice about the radiator is wrong. Water temperature does not change much within a watercooling system, it just stays at an equilibrium point. At most there will be a maximum delta of 2 C within a properly set up loop (usually just means that flow rates are high enough).
Click to expand...

So one radiator would be fine for cooling an OC'd 2600k and 2 580's? That's seems slim to me. Makes sense to get not shoot water into your gpus with the heatdump of your CPU. But whatevs, even though I wouldn't do that, i cant say 100%, I'm no expert.

I have a 320 in front of my 2600k and I'm putting a 220 right after it, before going to the gpus. Of course I'm waiting for my gpu blocks. What would be a good alternative? I'm still figuring out the best way to squeeze everything into my Haf 932 efficiently.
 
manofthem said:
So one radiator would be fine for cooling an OC'd 2600k and 2 580's? That's seems slim to me. Makes sense to get not shoot water into your gpus with the heatdump of your CPU. But whatevs, even though I wouldn't do that, i cant say 100%, I'm no expert.

I have a 320 in front of my 2600k and I'm putting a 220 right after it, before going to the gpus. Of course I'm waiting for my gpu blocks. What would be a good alternative? I'm still figuring out the best way to squeeze everything into my Haf 932 efficiently.
Click to expand...

One radiator is fine as long as it is large enough to dissipate the heat effectively. The reason for this is that due to the high specific heat of water, which is why it is a great coolant, it absorbs a whole lot of heat before rising in temperature. That's why high flow rates are important, to keep the water temperature in equilibrium. In fact, water temperature typically only changes about 1-2 C at most within a properly set up cooling solution, as I have stated before.

That is why all seasoned watercoolers tell you that loop order does not matter. The only thing that matters is that the pump is after the reservoir, beyond that it makes absolutely no difference.

You mean a 360 radiator, right? 3x120 = 360. However, by your naming, I'm assuming you're using Swiftech radiators. A 3x120 is sufficient to cool your system at max load with ~1500-2000 RPM fans.
 
Tsumi said:
One radiator is fine as long as it is large enough to dissipate the heat effectively. The reason for this is that due to the high specific heat of water, which is why it is a great coolant, it absorbs a whole lot of heat before rising in temperature. That's why high flow rates are important, to keep the water temperature in equilibrium. In fact, water temperature typically only changes about 1-2 C at most within a properly set up cooling solution, as I have stated before.

That is why all seasoned watercoolers tell you that loop order does not matter. The only thing that matters is that the pump is after the reservoir, beyond that it makes absolutely no difference.

You mean a 360 radiator, right? 3x120 = 360. However, by your naming, I'm assuming you're using Swiftech radiators. A 3x120 is sufficient to cool your system at max load with ~1500-2000 RPM fans.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I've researched a lot into the water cooling, and I've heard similar to what you are saying before. Then again, I've heard others.

I have 2 swiftech rads: an MCR320 and MCR220. I was running the 220 and CPU block only before with the 355 pump/Res.

Im running 2x6950 cfx. But I ordered an Alphacool Nexxxos gpu block to test before ordering another, though I plan on getting 2 blocks total.

So Would there be any benefit to using the 220 also? And do you think I would need another pump? (using 355 with CPU and 2 gpu blocks through rad(s)) (using yate loons medium fans push/pull with fan controller)
 
One 355 pump is enough.

There would be a benefit with also using the 220 radiator. You would get lower temperatures, and you don't have to spin up your fans as high.
 
Tsumi said:
One 355 pump is enough.

There would be a benefit with also using the 220 radiator. You would get lower temperatures, and you don't have to spin up your fans as high.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm going to try with 1 gpu first and check temps. If all is well, I'll go with the second. Trying to fit the 220 also is proving to be a pain without modifying the case, so I could always go with a 120 after CPU if it looks like the gpu is high. We shall see.
 
 
Last edited:
That bridge thing is designed for universal waterblocks, not full-cover waterblocks.

As for full-cover waterblock compatibility, check out the EK website, they will list if it is compatible or not.

Your tubing dimensions has to completely match up with your compression fitting dimensions.
 
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