First timer doing research

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denali

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Nov 7, 2008
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Hi!

I'm going to admit I'm a total n00b when it comes to LC. Every build I've done over the last 15 years has been air-cooled. However, thanks to a bit of good fortune, I may be able to pull off some upgrades in the next 3 months or so. Since I'm going to spend the extra cash, I figure I may as well LC it as well.

This is what I'm considering for my build:

MSI 790FX-GD70
AMD Phenom II X4 810
CM ATCS 840 case
MSI N295GTX-M2D1792
Antec Signature SG850 P/S

(And of course, the usual suspects for various pieces of support hardware. I don't think they're relevant, but if they are, please let me know.)

For the LC rig, I'm considering the following:

MCR320 Quiet Power
Yate Loon D12SM-12C (for the rad)
Swiftech MCRES
Swiftech MCP355
Swiftech GTZ block
Danger Den DD-GTX295 (or Swiftech's when it's released)

So... Here's where I'd like to hear your thoughts.

1) Should I put the NB/SB into this loop?
1a) If so, will this setup be (more than enough/enough/barely enough)?
1b) If so, what block would you recommend for both?

2) What recommendations would you make for tubing/fitting diameter?
3) Am I missing anything?

Any/all advice is appreciated! :)
 
I'd go for the 655 pump, might cost a little more but gives you more headroom for upgrades. It's very silent.

Go with 1/2'' ID tubing if you have room. Doesn't look like you're missing anything aside from clamps and some anti-fungal stuff.

Good luck its a lot of fun!
 
I have to say my advice to you would be to to change your system plans to an i7, even if it means you need to stick with air cooling due to the extra cost. You would get a lot better bang for your buck if you spent it on the hardware. If you insist on sticking with the AMD setup:

1) I don't know how hot the AMD chipset runs but you will likely need some extra cooling for the chipset since it's no longer getting any air from the CPU cooler. I have no idea if anyone makes blocks that fit these boards but manufacturers usually provide compatibility lists on their websites so you could start researching by looking those up. Another alternative would just be to strategically place some fans.

2) I've used lots of different diameters and tubing from different manufacturers and I have to say my favorite is the DD/Feser 16/10mm stuff. It can do some seriously tight bends without kinking and it's easy to work with. I also prefer compression fittings over barbs but that's a matter of taste.

3) Looks pretty complete though you may need more radiator if you decide to also liquid cool the chipset.
 
viets7ylez said:
I'd go for the 655 pump, might cost a little more but gives you more headroom for upgrades. It's very silent.

Go with 1/2'' ID tubing if you have room. Doesn't look like you're missing anything aside from clamps and some anti-fungal stuff.

Good luck its a lot of fun!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! I wondered about the 655, but wasn't sure if "too much of a good thing" counted here.

As for the 1/2"ID tubing, I've seen a lot of talk about 3/4"OD vs 5/8"OD. Most seem to lean towards 3/4"OD, I assume due to the thicker wall. I've also read discussions about fittings & clamps vs. compression fittings. Any suggestions on either of those?

anr11 said:
I have to say my advice to you would be to to change your system plans to an i7, even if it means you need to stick with air cooling due to the extra cost. You would get a lot better bang for your buck if you spent it on the hardware. If you insist on sticking with the AMD setup:

1) I don't know how hot the AMD chipset runs but you will likely need some extra cooling for the chipset since it's no longer getting any air from the CPU cooler. I have no idea if anyone makes blocks that fit these boards but manufacturers usually provide compatibility lists on their websites so you could start researching by looking those up. Another alternative would just be to strategically place some fans.

2) I've used lots of different diameters and tubing from different manufacturers and I have to say my favorite is the DD/Feser 16/10mm stuff. It can do some seriously tight bends without kinking and it's easy to work with. I also prefer compression fittings over barbs but that's a matter of taste.

3) Looks pretty complete though you may need more radiator if you decide to also liquid cool the chipset.
Click to expand...

Hi and thank you for the reply! I'm going to be honest, I'm not overly fond of Intel for personal reasons that really have nothing to do with tech. But I do appreciate the advice. :)

1) I don't know either and a couple of people I've seen say that no one is really doing AMD NB/SB blocks. After looking around, I think I have to agree. I know I can get some generic blocks, but since I've not seen under the factory heat sinks, I can't gauge how well they'll "fit".

2) I hate to admit, but I fail at the metric system. I'm guessing 10mm is 3/8", 13mm is 1/2", 16mm is 2/3" and 20mm is 3/4"? :confused: I'm glad you brought up compression fittings, because as I mentioned above I've seen discussions about both. So they're generally equal concerning their ability to prevent leaks? How about ease of installation?

3) I'll keep that in mind. I've seen recommendations on branching off runs into NB/SB blocks due to those types of blocks being restrictive. Any thoughts?

Thanks again viets7ylez and anr11. I really do appreciate this! :)
 
Go for the 3/4 OD, thicker wall is always better IMO.

I'm not sure which is better persay in regards to the compression fittings or the barbs but I just went with the standard barbs, cheap and works just fine if you do things correctly.
 
The tubing I was referring to is 3/8" ID, 5/8"OD. I prefer compression fittings because I think they look cleaner than barbs and find them easier to work with.

Given your planned system, I wouldn't worry that much about restriction, especially considering your choice of pumps. They are powerful enough that you shouldn't need to worry about it.
 
well, if you're going with a triple rad and yateloon fans, you have a really high potential for very low noise operation, with good temps. there are plenty of factors in the mix, but you might want to consider the option of getting one MCP355 now, with the potential for getting a second at some later date for added performance.

alternately, you could choose to go with a double rad, rather than a triple, and plan on sticking with a single pump. one MCP 355 with yateloon fans and a double rad is a good performance/noise match. a triple rad is a bit overkill if you only ever plan on running one MCP 355.

i favour 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubes on 5/8" barbs with gear clamps for my own use......but that is largely motivated by a past catastrophic failure. i now use overkill as a result. 3/8" ID and 1/2" ID with 5/8" OD on conventional is a perfectly valid option.

i have had good results for many years now using the swiftech MCX159 NB cooler. i would reccomend that you consider the MCX159-Cu as a valid cooling option for low noise operation with good cooling.

test thoroughly, and play safe.
 
I can vouch for the Yate Loons, they are silent. Same noise as the Noctuas I had but a lot cheaper. I use 3 on my MCR320 and it is silent the only fan noise I hear are from my Antec case fans. I'd replace them for quieter ones but why waste good fans :D
 
DFI Daishi said:
well, if you're going with a triple rad and yateloon fans, you have a really high potential for very low noise operation, with good temps. there are plenty of factors in the mix, but you might want to consider the option of getting one MCP355 now, with the potential for getting a second at some later date for added performance.

alternately, you could choose to go with a double rad, rather than a triple, and plan on sticking with a single pump. one MCP 355 with yateloon fans and a double rad is a good performance/noise match. a triple rad is a bit overkill if you only ever plan on running one MCP 355.

i favour 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubes on 5/8" barbs with gear clamps for my own use......but that is largely motivated by a past catastrophic failure. i now use overkill as a result. 3/8" ID and 1/2" ID with 5/8" OD on conventional is a perfectly valid option.

i have had good results for many years now using the swiftech MCX159 NB cooler. i would reccomend that you consider the MCX159-Cu as a valid cooling option for low noise operation with good cooling.

test thoroughly, and play safe.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! I considered the smaller rad/pump combo at one point, but I was afraid of not having enough cooling power, especially if I overclock.

Out of curiosity and a need to learn, what type of fittings were you using on the rig that had the catastrophic failure? At least, I'm assuming what occurred to you involved the fittings?
 
Personaly I think the MCP355 is a great pump and should have more than enough power to run what you are looking at here. Instead of the swiftech res I would recomend something like this however,

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...us_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c107s152

Not only does it simplify your tubing layout but it also makes filling and purging your loop a breeze. I had mine up and done within 10 minutes of first putting liquid in the system.
 
don't worry yourself too much about it, since i was running a peltier rig and had a failure that could only occur in a peltier rig, but i was running 1/2" barbs in 1/2" ID tubing.

power flickered, the computer and fans shut off, but the peltiers and pump didn't.........the water boiled from the waste heat of the peltiers and steam pressure blew the hoses off of the barbs.............things eventually got hot enough to melt the solder on my proc...........it was pretty spectacular.
 
DFI Daishi said:
don't worry yourself too much about it, since i was running a peltier rig and had a failure that could only occur in a peltier rig, but i was running 1/2" barbs in 1/2" ID tubing.

power flickered, the computer and fans shut off, but the peltiers and pump didn't.........the water boiled from the waste heat of the peltiers and steam pressure blew the hoses off of the barbs.............things eventually got hot enough to melt the solder on my proc...........it was pretty spectacular.
Click to expand...

:eek:

Wow...
 
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