First Build in 2 weeks

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Gobstopper

n00b
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
47
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Update 8-16-08

I have a few questions regarding this build.

1. I'm going to be buying the monitor separate from the system. The thing is, I can't find it anywhere at retail stores (Best Buy, Fry's, Circuit City) so I guess my only option is the online route. Newegg apparently has a bad dead pixel policy so where should I buy it? Should I go directly with Samsung or some other online store?

2. The optical drive I've listed below is shown as a deactivated item on newegg.com. Should I find it somewhere else or is there an alternative I should look at? I've tried researching a different drive, but I don't know a lot about optical drives so I'm having trouble figuring out which one to go with.

3. Do I need a bracket for the heatsink? I saw it in person today and it seems pretty heavy and I'm afraid of damaging my motherboard.

4. While reading the forums, I've kind of been wanting to try building the pc myself. The thing is, I've watched a lot of videos that cover the basics and I thought I had a grasp on how to do it: prep the case, install power supply, place the cpu and heatsink, mount the motherboard, ram, gpu, hard drives, optical, case connections, etc. The most recent article I read though hinted at small details that the videos overlooked. Does anyone have a very detailed, up-to-date guide that they can link me to? I've read the ones in the stickies and googled a few, but a lot seem outdated and miss out on small details.

End Update 8-16-08
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Was going to build a new pc back in May, but I decided to wait for the new gpus. Here's my updated build that I plan to start in about 2 weeks. I did a lot of research back in May, but haven't really kept up much since then so I'm looking for suggestions. This will be my first build.

Budget
Around $2000 including monitor. That's my max for the actual computer and monitor, but I'm willing to go over that for shipping; I doubt I'll have to though. Buying from my friend who works at a custom computer company here in the Bay Area. Their prices are similar to newegg so I'm going to be using newegg as a reference for pricing. I won't be taxed for this.


What this build will be used for
Gaming: I'd like the gaming life of this build to be around 2 years. I don't want to have to upgrade anything until then. I don't mind not being able to play future titles at max resolution and settings, but I don't want to play on low settings either.
Examples: CoD4, Supreme Commander, Spore, Crysis, Mass Effect
Movies: Thinking about getting a bluray drive in the future. For now, I'm just going to be using this for standard definition.
Music: I'm no audiophile, but I've recently bought some pretty nice headphones and I'd like to have pretty good sound from the build. My ears aren't trained to hear every little detail, but I can tell the difference between good sound and just decent.

Overclock
Minimal overclocking if I decide to do it at all. With that in mind, if you see any components that are overkill then please suggest something cheaper. I will be buying extra fans though; just to keep things cool.

Build (Updated 8-21-08)
Monitor: Samsung 2493HM $429.99
Motherboard: GASUS P5Q Pro LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard $129.99
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor $169.99
Heatsink: XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler $36.99
Video Card: EVGA 896-P3-1260-AR GeForce GTX 260
Ram: G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1000 (PC2 8000) Dual Channel Kit $84.99
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s $84.99
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-S203B $29.99
PSU: CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply $119.99
OS: Windows Vista Home Premium 64bit OEM $109.99
Case: Cooler Master RC-690-KKN1-GP Black $79.99


Total: $1576.90
Shipping: $39.43

There you go. Don't hesitate to suggest alternatives to anything I've posted. Also, the case is only a mid-tower. Should I get something bigger or should that be fine? I hear the gtx260 and the gskill ram get really hot so I'm also concerned about airflow in the smaller case. Any compatibility issues that jump out to anyone?


Changes: Motherboard updated from ASUS Maximus II Formula LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard $259.99 to Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3R Intel P45 Motherboard $129.99
 
The Maximus II Formula is definitely and utterly overkill. I recommend these other motherboards:
Gigabyte GA-EP43-DS3L Intel P43 Motherboard - $93
MSI P45 Neo3-FR Intel P45 Motherboard - $107
Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3R Intel P45 Motherboard - $130
Asus P5Q Pro Intel P45 Motherboard - $140
DFI Lanparty DK X38-T2R Intel X38 Motherboard - $180
Asus P5E Deluxe Intel X48 Motherboard - $220
Gigabyte GA-X48-DS4 Intel X48 Motherboard - $225

Just to help you out: All of these motherboards have PCI-E 2.0 which may be useful for future GPU upgrades. If you don't need RAID, more than 6 SATA ports and only need semi-decent overclocking, check out the DS3L. If you need 8 SATA ports, RAID, 4 PCI slots, and legacy ports, then get the Neo3-Fr. If you don't need more than 6 SATA ports but want RAID, firewire, a second PCI-E x16 port, a second gigabit port, support for 16GB of RAM, optional eSATA, x8/x8 Crossfire, and high overclocks, then get the DS3R. If you like the DS3R but need 8 SATA ports, want an onboard pre-installed fast booting Linux setup, only need support for 8GB of RAM and don't need a second gigabit port, get the Asus P5Q Pro. If you want Crossfire with full x16/x16 bandwidth, get the Lanparty DK X38. If you have cash to burn and don't give a damn about getting the most value for your money, get the Asus or Gigabyte X48 motherboards. Do note that the Asus website can be slow sometimes.

The case is fine for your build. Stick with it.

Other than the motherboard, looks good to me.
 
I would suggest getting a 4870 if you are getting a crossfire board and if you are getting gtx 260 buy a sli mobo.
 
The DS3R seems to be the best bet for me, but after researching it, the "DS3R Boot Recycle Issue" has me a bit worried. I'll be purchasing from my friend's company here in California, but I go to college in the east coast. If I encounter the problem, I don't think I would have many options. How prominent is this issue? Also, if I go with the DS3R, should I go ahead and switch to the 4870 or can I stick with the GTX260?

After doing more research on the PSU, I think the 750W is a bit much. Would I be fine with the 520W Corsair? It's the same price as the 750W, but it's modular.
 
How about a quad instead of a dual core? If you are trying to future proof this computer, a quad core is the way to go.
 
Gobstopper said:
The DS3R seems to be the best bet for me, but after researching it, the "DS3R Boot Recycle Issue" has me a bit worried. I'll be purchasing from my friend's company here in California, but I go to college in the east coast. If I encounter the problem, I don't think I would have many options. How prominent is this issue? Also, if I go with the DS3R, should I go ahead and switch to the 4870 or can I stick with the GTX260?

After doing more research on the PSU, I think the 750W is a bit much. Would I be fine with the 520W Corsair? It's the same price as the 750W, but it's modular.
Click to expand...

You can stick with the GTX 260.

You would be fine with the 520HX. But unless you really want modular cables, get the 750TX since it's the better value IMO. More power than and equal quality as the 520HX? Plus larger PSU would make sure that you have plenty of power for future upgrades.

The DS3R reboot issue isn't that prevalent. Usually a BIOs update, clearing CMOS or swapping out RAM fixes the problem.
 
Ah ok. Thanks Danny Bui. I guess I'll stick with the 750W and just try to manage the cables.

Anyone have any recommendations for a quad core processor? I didn't think I'd need to go more than dual core since I don't run that many programs at once, but I guess it would be good for future proofing. Nothing too expensive since I might switch to the GTX 280 if I'm still a good amount under budget when I've finalized the build. Not to mention I still need to buy extra fans and an ethernet card.
 
Go with the Q6600. It's the best bang for the buck quad-core CPU out now. But since you only want this rig to last two years, the E8400 is still a good choice if you want to save some cash.

And you don't need an LAN card. The onboard LAN/ethernet of most motherboards out there are more than enough for gaming, downloading, etc.

Also I recommend these fans:
120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 Case Fan - $3.60
 
Ah okay, for some reason, I had the idea that onboard ethernet was terrible. Good to know I was wrong. Appreciate all the help. And thanks for using the world "prevalent" haha. I was trying to figure out what the word was and it was bugging me that whole time. Ended up using "prominent." Looks like I'm pretty much good to go.
 
1) Just buy it online from Newegg.com.

2) Just get its replacement:
Samsung SH-222F 22X DVD±R SATA DVD Burner - $27

3) Well the bracket allows for a much much easier way of installing the HSF. It won't damage your motherboard at all. Just be to be clear, you saw this bracket, correct?:
Retention Bracket - $7

4) What small details are you talking about? Just use both the videos and the written guides to build the PC. If you read through every single guide, that should provide you with everything you need to build a PC.
 
Danny Bui said:
1) Just buy it online from Newegg.com.

2) Just get its replacement:
Samsung SH-222F 22X DVD±R SATA DVD Burner - $27

3) Well the bracket allows for a much much easier way of installing the HSF. It won't damage your motherboard at all. Just be to be clear, you saw this bracket, correct?:
Retention Bracket - $7

4) What small details are you talking about? Just use both the videos and the written guides to build the PC. If you read through every single guide, that should provide you with everything you need to build a PC.
Click to expand...

1) Everyone here has said to avoid newegg for monitor purchases because of their dead pixel policy. I've been unlucky in the past with dead pixels and would like the option to return a highly defective panel.

2) Awesome, thanks.

3) I guess I worded the question about the bracket wrong. I meant that the heatsink felt heavy and I wanted to know if I needed a bracket to avoid damaging my motherboard due to the weight of the heatsink. And yeah, that's the bracket I was looking at.

4) I can't remember all of them, but a couple that stand out are: (1) having a lever on the PCI-e slot in a certain position before installing a gpu into the slot and (2) something about the position of a switch on the back of an optical drive during installation. I saw each of those things on different tutorials and they didn't appear in others. If I hadn't read those tutorials, I wouldn't have known about those details. Right now, I don't know if there are other details that I'm missing even though I've read a lot of different guides.
 
The retention brackets makes mounting the CPU cooler easier because it uses screws instead of the prevalent (and frustratingly annoying) push-pins.

Most SATA optical drives that I've used (both past and present) never had a noticeable switch in the back. As for the lever on the PCI-E x16 slot, it's not really difficult to operate (but if you're still concerned about it, rely on the motherboard manual for more details).

If you want a list of additional retailers to purchase your monitor from, check out the GenHard FAQ. We recommend NewEgg for its selection, though some of us forget about its dead pixel policy from time to time.
 
I would seriously consider upgrading your HDD to a Raptor or a VelociRaptor. I had a 74gb Raptor and I loved the thing - the speed it added to my system was incredible. Load times reduce, the system gets snappier, etc, and in my opinion it's completely worth the money.
 
tiraides said:
Most SATA optical drives that I've used (both past and present) never had a noticeable switch in the back. As for the lever on the PCI-E x16 slot, it's not really difficult to operate (but if you're still concerned about it, rely on the motherboard manual for more details).
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm sure it's fairly easy to understand once I'm aware of it. I can just read the manual. I'm just afraid I'm missing something else that should be easy to do, but I'm not aware of it. Maybe I'm being a bit too cautious, but this is my first ever PC build so I'm just being careful so I don't break any components.


Think said:
I would seriously consider upgrading your HDD to a Raptor or a VelociRaptor. I had a 74gb Raptor and I loved the thing - the speed it added to my system was incredible. Load times reduce, the system gets snappier, etc, and in my opinion it's completely worth the money.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about getting a 74GB Raptor to install my OS and some other applications that would benefit from a faster hard drive, but for now, the benefits don't really outweigh the costs for me.
 
Think said:
I would seriously consider upgrading your HDD to a Raptor or a VelociRaptor. I had a 74gb Raptor and I loved the thing - the speed it added to my system was incredible. Load times reduce, the system gets snappier, etc, and in my opinion it's completely worth the money.
Click to expand...

The Western Digital WD6400AAKS and the Samsung F1 750GB hard drives operate as fast as the 150GB Raptor X, if not faster. That, and their price per performance/GB, makes them better options.

While the VelociRaptor is much faster than any other non-SCSI drive around, you could purchase at least three of the above two drives for the cost of one VelociRaptor. (They're not the best choice for someone who is on a strict budget.)

Gobstopper said:
Yeah, I'm sure it's fairly easy to understand once I'm aware of it. I can just read the manual. I'm just afraid I'm missing something else that should be easy to do, but I'm not aware of it. Maybe I'm being a bit too cautious, but this is my first ever PC build so I'm just being careful so I don't break any components.
Click to expand...

Check the GenHard FAQ for a list of online building guides. There are several available that will go over (nearly) every detail of building a PC from scratch.
 
The Xigmatek is actually pretty light compared to the Thermalright Ultra120 eXtreme (TRUE), which is also held with a backplate and some screws. So, no, there's nothing to worry about regarding the weght of the HSF. I know, its hard to imagine that such a huge pile of fins/heatpipes won't damage a board, but as long as you get that retention kit w/ backplate, you'll be fine. PCB's are pretty strong. :p
 
Neither. Your board has the Intel P45 chipset, which supports AMD/ATI-only CrossFire.

With the monitor you have in mind, I recommend the HD4870 at a minimum. While the HD4870X2 would be better for gaming, it may end up bursting your budget.

A large part of learning how to build a computer from scratch is through trial and error. The guides and videos can't show you everything that could happen during a build -- or everything else that could go wrong. But most people get it right their first time. Just keep reviewing those guides -- the majority of them essentially tell you the same things to do.
 
I don't plan on ever going with a dual gpu setup and I'd like to buy from evga due to their step-up program. Is the 4870 that much better than the 260? Also, isn't the 280 the fastest single-gpu solution at the moment?

Is there an incompatibility issue with the DS3R and the Nvidia GPUs (aside from not supporting sli)?
 
Outside of the CrossFire incompatibility, there are no issues with NVIDIA cards and the P45 chipset. However, the HD4870X2 is cheaper in many places than the GTX 280, and it is the better card (though it is a dual-GPU card). The HD4870 is also better in more benchmarks than the GTX 260. (Many reviews consider the HD4870 the better of the two.)

If you are within your 90-day step-up window (with your current card), however, I see no reason why you can't go with the GTX 260. (The GTX 280, like the HD4870X2, may burst your budget.) Otherwise, I still recommend an AMD/ATI card.
 
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