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Finalizing My WC Setup

J

JOKER_JOKER

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 2, 2005
Messages
471
My parents want me to start ordering my watercooling setup, and since this is my first one, I thought I would run it by you guys to make sure I'm not missing anything and for suggestions. Here it is:

CPU Block
Dual GPU Blocks
Pump
Radiator
7' Of Tubing
Fillport

A grand total of about $335, not bad.

Am I missing anything? Do you guys think getting the low-profile gpu blocks would provide less cooling or flow restriction? Feel free to give me any suggestions you may have.
 
If your using a t-line make sure you buy one ;) .

Also, a heater core with a 2x120mm shroud should cool the loop plenty for your components. I'd go with 7/16 ID tygon tubing for the 1/2 OD barbs. Otherwise, get a bunch of worm clamps or zip-ties. When you setup, try using the least bends and place the t-line right infront of the inlet.
 
1: you dont need the triple radiator, but if you have the space go with it. I would go with the dual BIP, costs as much as a HC will in the end with less work and same performance.

2: dont forget fans for your rad

3: get 10 feet of tubing... you never know

4: tubing can be had for much cheaper (2.80 a foot is a ripoff, honestly)... www.mcmaster.com stands out, search for tygon, but masterkleer works just as good (same stuff pretty much, not rated for food, etc) and is priced at about $0.40-0.50 per foot

5: If you do order from mcmaster, get the 7/16 stuff like thunderstruck said

6: your gonna need at least one low profile block for an SLI setup. AFAIK they dont hurt performance from the regular ones.

7: while you are at mcmaster, get a 1/2" OD T-fitting for your t-line. might as well while you by tube, otherwise go to home-depo or somthin for it.

8: hose clamps - always a good idea. get some (zip ties work as well)
 
the swiftech MCW 55 GPU waterblocks are SUPPOSED to have less pressure drop than the maze 4. who knows if they really do, just thought that i'd metion it.

the only reason to go for a triple rad is for low noise opperation, and the black ice pro 3 works better with low noise fans than the xtreme 3 does.

it's good to have extra tubing handy. chances are that you will wnat to re-work you layout at some point, even if you don't use all of it now. it's also really annoying to run out of tubing. if you make a few mistakes and end up short tubing because you had to throw some away, since this is your first build, it could end up costing you a few days with your rig down until you get some more.

i think that the others have covered the other points well enough.
 
The reason I'm getting the BIX III is because I want to expel as much heat as humanly possible. Something is screwed up with my 7800 and I can't even run BF2 at close to full settings because the card will overheat. Then multiply that by two. And yes, I not only have the room for it (on top of the case), but it's gonna be camouflaged and will match perfectly with my case mod design. Another thing, I was looking at the peltiers at dangerden, what are they? They look like little hot plates.
 
JOKER_JOKER said:
The reason I'm getting the BIX III is because I want to expel as much heat as humanly possible. Something is screwed up with my 7800 and I can't even run BF2 at close to full settings because the card will overheat. Then multiply that by two.
Click to expand...
you don't need a triple rad, for performance reasons, even with two 7800s. seriously, the BIP III will do better with fans with individual ouputs lower than 100 CFM. there is no benifit to having fans with higher output than that, in a config like yours, so there is no benifit to getting the xtreme. get the pro, load it up with three yate loon fans, and run the fans off of a controller.

you are unlikely to see a difference in temps between running your fans at full and running them silent. if you select your equipment to take advantage of that fact, then you can test it for yourself and, once you have had a look at your temps with various fan speeds, you can then dial them down and be happy with almost inaudible fan noise and wicked temps.

you seem to be coming at this wanting the best temps you can get. using the BIP III won't hurt your temps, and nets you the added bonus of low noise opperation.
JOKER_JOKER said:
And yes, I not only have the room for it (on top of the case), but it's gonna be camouflaged and will match perfectly with my case mod design. Another thing, I was looking at the peltiers at dangerden, what are they? They look like little hot plates.
Click to expand...
i do pelt cooling.....you don't want to go there your first time out. one side of them is a little hot plate that is not easy to keep cool, and the other side of them wants to be a little condensation generator, which is hard to keep dry.
 
Don't worry, I'm wasn't even thinking about doing a peltier cooling setup, I just wanted to know what it was. I believe you, but it just seems the BIX III (9702 BTU's per hour) would be better because it can expel a lot more heat than the BIP III (6875 BTU's per hour). I'm just having trouble understanding why the one that can expel less heat would be better.
 
JOKER_JOKER said:
Don't worry, I'm wasn't even thinking about doing a peltier cooling setup, I just wanted to know what it was. I believe you, but it just seems the BIX III (9702 BTU's per hour) would be better because it can expel a lot more heat than the BIP III (6875 BTU's per hour). I'm just having trouble understanding why the one that can expel less heat would be better.
Click to expand...
there are two performace factors to consider: surface area and air flow.

more surface area is good. air can pick up more heat per volume of air moved, if it is moving past a larger surface area.

more airflow is good. move more air past the rad, and you can get the rad closer to ambient.

however, increasing surface area typically makes the rad more restrictive and reduces airflow. it's therefore a balancing act to get the optimal amount of surface area and airflow for a given fan.

HWlabs rates that xtreme as being able to get rid of more heat because it has a larger surface area, and they can move tonnes of air past any rad using their test equipment. as such, their ratings are a bit deceptive when it comes time to see how well the rad will cool with a normal case fan attached to it.

end users usually get somewhat better performance out of the pro rad because it's lower restriction to airflow. the added airflow does more for performace than the reduced surface area. unless you are running insanely loud and powerfull fans, they don't push air hard enough to take advantage of the added surface area.

take a look at the relative thicknesses of the two rads to get some idea of the increase in restriction.

also have a look at some of the rad reviews: http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index31.asp#WATER COOLING
 
Ahhh, now I get it. Unless I have 3 jet engines blowing air through the BIX III, I wont be taking advantage of the extra surface area. Well, I'm gonna have to go with the BIP III then. And thanx for that link.
 
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