Final water loop configuration... please check before I order

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allen5055

[H]ard|Gawd
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Mar 25, 2012
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I'm adding everything to my cart and am ready to buy everything. I just bought quick disconnects... apparently these are some of the only ones that work with 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2....html?tl=g30c405s1867&id=VgyiUZFB&mv_pc=23256
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2....html?tl=g30c405s1867&id=VgyiUZFB&mv_pc=22769



My setup:

1. Two alphacool UT60 480mm radiators
2. XSPC AX 240 raystorm kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Free_Dead-Water.html?id=VgyiUZFB&mv_pc=24371
3. 10 feet primochill primoflex clear tubing
4. Four EK Acetal waterblocks
5. Quad EK Terminal connector for the waterblocks
6. a silver wire
7. eight XSPC G1/4" Thread 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD low profile compression fittings
8. Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
9. 3 sets of Koolance QD3 quick disconnects for 1/2 ID 5/8 OD (supposedly these will work for 7/16 5/8 tubing)
 
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1. The kit comes with exactly as many as it needs. As for the rest of your build if i understand correctly you have:
2x 480 rads
4x GPU's hooked up using a quad terminal
in addition to the kit, right? am i missing anything else? if not you need an additional 6 compression fittings, though i'd be quick to keep 1 or 2 on standby in case you over tighten one or something.

2.Any should do, I'd get the bitspower ones as they seem the cheapest and I already use bitspower sparkle compression fittings.

3. the rad does appear to have a drain port you can use pic
 
I can't find quick disconnects for 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing. Can I use the quickdisconnects for 1/2 ID and 5/8 OD? I guess I can force the tubing on.

Also.... my Gigabyte Z87 OC Force motherboard has water cooling for the VRM's but it uses 3/8" barbs. How can I adapt my 7/16 tubing to hook up the VRM cooler?
 
They do make reducer fittings to change tubing size. Are you doing some heavy OCing to heat up the VRMs. From my understanding they don't get hot until you hit some high clocks. Otherwise people get them for the "bling" factor. It appears EK makes a waterblock for your motherboard if you wanted to replace the factory WC built onto it. I would actually recommend this though the cost isn't cheap($135). It appears that the factory watercooling block on the board is made of aluminum which is a big fail in watercooling. Not sure about the QDC situation though.
 
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silverstonec2d said:
They do make reducer fittings to change tubing size. Are you doing some heavy OCing to heat up the VRMs. From my understanding they don't get hot until you hit some high clocks. Otherwise people get them for the "bling" factor. It appears EK makes a waterblock for your motherboard if you wanted to replace the factory WC built onto it. I would actually recommend this though the cost isn't cheap($135). It appears that the factory watercooling block on the board is made of aluminum which is a big fail in watercooling. Not sure about the QDC situation though.
Click to expand...

The block is made of aluminum, but the part that the water travels through is actually a nickel-coated copper pipe which the aluminum block sits on top of.

I don't need to watercool the VRM's probably, but I just kinda figure why not?
 
Good point, guess I should have dug a little deeper into the specifics before posting that :eek: I can understand the "why not" though if your going all out. Either way, the EK aftermarket blocks would probably make your build look "cleaner" than with barbs/reducers and match your other EK blocks ;)
 
yeah.... I've spent too much already. I'm not getting backplates and that aftermarket cooler is very expensive.
 
silverstonec2d said:
Good point, guess I should have dug a little deeper into the specifics before posting that :eek: I can understand the "why not" though if your going all out. Either way, the EK aftermarket blocks would probably make your build look "cleaner" than with barbs/reducers and match your other EK blocks ;)
Click to expand...

Rather than using reducers, is there any way I can just run a short segment of 3/8 tubing for the before and after segments around my VRM cooler?

I was planning on going from the upper radiator to the VRM's, and from the VRM's to the CPU. Could I use 3/8 ID tubing for those two segments and avoid reducers altogether? I'm not sure how I connect the CPU raystorm block and the radiator to the tubing. Is this using compression fittings or barbs? If I bought one compression fitting/barb for 3/8" ID could I do this?
 
allen5055 said:
Rather than using reducers, is there any way I can just run a short segment of 3/8 tubing for the before and after segments around my VRM cooler?

I was planning on going from the upper radiator to the VRM's, and from the VRM's to the CPU. Could I use 3/8 ID tubing for those two segments and avoid reducers altogether? I'm not sure how I connect the CPU raystorm block and the radiator to the tubing. Is this using compression fittings or barbs? If I bought one compression fitting/barb for 3/8" ID could I do this?
Click to expand...

You could buy a few feet of 3/8 ID tubing and 2 compression fittings to match for those two short runs. Just make sure you match the ID and OD of the fittings and tubing.
 
wesnerer said:
You could buy a few feet of 3/8 ID tubing and 2 compression fittings to match for those two short runs. Just make sure you match the ID and OD of the fittings and tubing.
Click to expand...

Do I just use regular compression fittings to attach the tubing to the radiator and the cpu block?
 
wesnerer said:
Yes. You can buy clamps or just use zip ties over the barbs on the motherboard block.
Click to expand...

This is a good point. The pressure of the water flowing through the loop is relatively low so you can easily clamp fittings with regular clamps or zip ties. The barb actually does most of the work sealing the connection anyway.

Another plus is that you can use UV reactive zip ties (although some people don't think it's a clean enough look). It all comes down to your preference.
 
What was said above seems like the best option for functionality/looks. A few feet of smaller 3/8 ID tubing and matching barbs/compression fittings for connecting the smaller tubing. You would need a 3/8 ID fitting(barb or compression) with G 1/4 threading to attach to the radiator and the other end of tubing to the 3/8 barb on the VRM block. Then just attach another piece of tubing from 3/8 VRM exit barb to another 3/8 ID G 1/4 threaded(barb or compression) into the CPU block. Other than this, you can use your other tubing and fittings you mentioned earlier without using reducers.
 
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