External Watercooling System :) 56k Warning

pakotlar

Gawd
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Messages
895
Check it out guys, took me 4 days straight to build with my grandpa. Specs are such : Hydor L30, Dtek Procore w/ 7v modded Aluminum fan ( 79cfm @ 12v), Dtek WW, 1/2 ID tubing, 5 1/2 bay resevoir. I LOVE IT. Temps never rise more than 4.5c above ambient (as taken by p4 diode sensor). It's a really great system, and was a fun project to build.

First time I installed the p4 adapter plate, I shorted out my motherboard. I took a dremel to it, thanks to Danny's advice (from Dtek Customs) and cut away wherever there was a resistor. I then covered it with electrical tape, attaching the tape with super glue at the corners for paranoia's sake. The system is amazing in my opinion. I'm running around 26-30db tops right now. I really need to get a gpu block for my 9800 pro. And yeah, that's Mushkin Black lvl2 pc3500 you see there :) (SORRY! :D ). I sealed the water block with some rooftop silicone sealant because I kept getting leaks. I realized I hadn't tightened the clamps all the way, so I did that first of course. The sealant is extra safety precaution. I leak tested it for 48 hours before using it :). Pump is quiet as all hell, thanks to a few rubberbands which I use to suspend it with (it is in the back you can't see it). The UV dye is next week, as well as a window kit which is coming soon. All holes you see in the side panel were done by me freehand with a dremel. I used a hole saw to grind into the metal a bit for an outline (the holesaw was only strong enough for wood and plastics). Enjoy the pics!

Water1.jpg

Water2.jpg

Water3.jpg

Water4.jpg
 
eh, I was afraid that would happen. geocities can't take the bandwith.

Could someone host my pics?
 
Just a suggestion, you should make those 2 outlet tubes between the block and the Y-fitting longer. The stress from those short tubes having to bend so much is what was causing your leaks. Looks pretty good though. My rig is also mostly external except I have my radiator mounted inside a window AC unit.
 
Originally posted by pHatalbOom
haha, awesome. good to see you working with your grandpa... :confused:

heh, thanks, I couldn't have done it without him. hes the man when it comes to carpentry.
 
Originally posted by cgrant26
Just a suggestion, you should make those 2 outlet tubes between the block and the Y-fitting longer. The stress from those short tubes having to bend so much is what was causing your leaks. Looks pretty good though. My rig is also mostly external except I have my radiator mounted inside a window AC unit.

hmmm... yeah i see your point. It's fine now so I'm not going to mess with it. Originally I had the hoses coming in through the back of the comp, through on of the fan grills (which I cut out), and the outlet tubes would kink if they were any longer. Figures that when all said and done they kinked anyways, and I had to dissasemble the damn thing anyways. For the first time in I'm happy with the results. And having the radiator drawing (relatively) cool ambient air is key - the air inside the case is a good 5 - 10c higher than ambient (according to my thermal probe), which would certainly impede effectiveness of the cooling rig. The white water is an incredible block btw, props Cathar if you read this.
 
holy bajeebus.. put those tubes through the back.. and is that epoxy i see holding the tubes on the block ?!?!?!!?!? get hose clamps for god sake!
 
Originally posted by heyheyhey
holy bajeebus.. put those tubes through the back.. and is that epoxy i see holding the tubes on the block ?!?!?!!?!? get hose clamps for god sake!

read the posts, sorry don't feel like explaining again :). I do have hoseclamps though. And I couldn't put them through the back, because the lines would kink.
 
Originally posted by pakotlar
read the posts, sorry don't feel like explaining again :). I do have hoseclamps though. And I couldn't put them through the back, because the lines would kink.

oops. lol must've missed that
 
You will have better luck with a sealed box that size, Radiator on one end sealed tight, and the Fan on the opposite end of the box sucking the air out.

So all the air comes through the rad.
 
Originally posted by Tedinde
You will have better luck with a sealed box that size, Radiator on one end sealed tight, and the Fan on the opposite end of the box sucking the air out.

So all the air comes through the rad.

all the air does come through the radiator, I'm using a shroud after all. Air pressure is fairly high despite the low rpm.
 
nice looking box you have there. are you able to get any more out of your p4?
 
Back
Top