EP45-UD3P optical out issue.

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Supreme [H]ardness
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Nov 17, 2000
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I have this hooked up to my zero and when there is sound the Zero clicks on and then as soon as the sound stops the zero will click back off. This did not happen with my Asus Rampage board. Is there an option to change this? It seems like maybe its a power saving feature? I can't seem to locate a setting in the OS. Thx for any help!
 
To tell you the honest truth, I stay away from gigabyte motherboards (and really all brands except Asus, but especially Gigabyte) because they usually have a least a back i/o port that never works (from my own experience, and other's), because they load the back i/o panel with too many ports, and I've heard that tends to cause electrical problems.

From my own experience with a gigabyte board, I had an optical out port that didn't work either, and it was an X38-DQ6 board; I got it in 11/2007, IIRC.

So, my personal advice: I'd recommend an Asus board or a sound card; but if 2 usb ports go out, I'd definitely rma, and sell the board you get back.
 
To tell you the honest truth, I stay away from gigabyte motherboards (and really all brands except Asus, but especially Gigabyte) because they usually have a least a back i/o port that never works (from my own experience, and other's), because they load the back i/o panel with too many ports, and I've heard that tends to cause electrical problems.

From my own experience with a gigabyte board, I had an optical out port that didn't work either, and it was an X38-DQ6 board; I got it in 11/2007, IIRC.

So, my personal advice: I'd recommend an Asus board or a sound card; but if 2 usb ports go out, I'd definitely rma, and sell the board you get back.

I left an Asus to go to Gigabyte lol. I read more ppl complaining about Asus then I do Gigabyte. Gigabyte is the one company I have used over the past 10 years that never gave me a problem.... until now!
 
Wierd.. the microsoft driver works fine. When I load the Realtek is when I start having problems. Because I'm using the optical out does it matter if im using the microsoft or Realtek driver? Its all feeding into a Zero.
 
Wierd.. the microsoft driver works fine. When I load the Realtek is when I start having problems. Because I'm using the optical out does it matter if im using the microsoft or Realtek driver?

One works, the other doesn't...
 
One works, the other doesn't...

hahahaha yeah good point. I have gone back and fourth between two and the realtek is enhancing the sound somehow. I might just throw a sound card in it. I had issues with my mic and the windows drivers last time.
 
Sound card could be an easy solution. Also a portable one - if you get a card that works, it should work for most any motherboard you get later.
 
Sound card could be an easy solution. Also a portable one - if you get a card that works, it should work for most any motherboard you get later.

hmm kinda gives me an idea.. budy owes me some $ and said he would order me a card just so he could put it on his CC and I will be paid off. I was looking at this one. He owes me 75$ but said he would order this one if I wanted it and to be honest this might be the only way I get my money back lol. If you can recommend a better card in this price range let me know.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271001
 
It's a good card, yes. However that's a largely analog issue. If you're using digital output, then the output stage of the card is irrelevant provided it works at all - $20 card, $200 card, same result. The exception is if there are DSP or positional features (e.g. EAX) which occur prior to the output stage.
 
It's a good card, yes. However that's a largely analog issue. If you're using digital output, then the output stage of the card is irrelevant provided it works at all - $20 card, $200 card, same result. The exception is if there are DSP or positional features (e.g. EAX) which occur prior to the output stage.

Hmm.. well if its a good card at least I get my $ back somehow. Plus if I ever decide to ditch my zero I will have a decent analog card also.
 
Yeah, same plus or minus.

I'd get the "Fatal1ty" model just for the extra EM shielding, despite the ridiculous branding.
 
Yeah, same plus or minus.

I'd get the "Fatal1ty" model just for the extra EM shielding, despite the ridiculous branding.

haha ok, I got my buddy in a headlock now so we are gonna go get this. Im just gonna cover the difference so it wont cost me much. Thx for the help!
 
For what its worth, my P5E-VM HDMI also does this. The connection is only "live" when its got activity on it. Otherwise, everything goes passive.
 
Picked up the Creative Fatality1 Titanium at Bestbuy for 108 out the door. From looking online it looks like I got a good price. Problem solved. My box amp isn't clicking on and off anymore!! Does the EAX etc work through the Digital output at all?
 
I've been told so.

In general, digital output bypasses the analog stage (often just a preamp) but keeps any digital preprocessing. They don't have to implement it that way, but they have to go out of their way not to.
 
I've been told so.

In general, digital output bypasses the analog stage (often just a preamp) but keeps any digital preprocessing. They don't have to implement it that way, but they have to go out of their way not to.

Ok, That makes sense. Are there any other settings that should be changed using Optical out? I did have to turn on the digital output but other then that I haven't changed any default settings.
 
TMK only if you want to enable EAX and so forth (I haven't used a Creative sound card since...dunno, somewhere between 386/SX and Pentium III). Some of it can cause issues when you're not gaming, I think virtual surround particularly so.
 
TMK only if you want to enable EAX and so forth (I haven't used a Creative sound card since...dunno, somewhere between 386/SX and Pentium III). Some of it can cause issues when you're not gaming, I think virtual surround particularly so.

Thx for the info!
 
Also is there any point in installing DTS or Dolby Digital Live with my current setup going through the Zero?
 
Can the Zero decode those things?

That is kinda what I was wondering. I am debating on doing away with the zero but Ive been told it wont sound as good through the sound card in Vista because of Vista. I also dont know if the creative card is strong enough to push my headphones.
 
The Zero's amp can use a bit of modding, but I'd put it against the X-Fi's easily. Creative designs those thinking you're going to plug some Xbox headset or maybe some Logitech speakers into them. Different target audiences. The digital part is a different story, and we can exploit that for our purposes by using the digital output and hooking up a better amp - which is where the Zero comes in.

Anyway...when you have two alternatives in hand, my advice is always to try both and find out for yourself.
 
O boy..

The Zero is a 2 channel DAC, so no it will not decode DD/DTS. And why people are once again bringing up $$$ gaming soundcards in a thread where the OP clearly uses a nice DAC to feed a (presumably) nice 2 channel audio setup is beyond me.

EAX/CMSS3D is (largely) irrelevant to someone looking for clean quality 2 channel audio for music.

If the S/PDIF output on you're motherboard is not functioning to you're liking then you can just pick up a cheap soundcard or USB device that has S/PDIF out and you're all set.
 
EAX/CMSS3D is (largely) irrelevant to someone looking for clean quality 2 channel audio for music.

Yup, I said as much earlier. Only turn those on for gaming.

And why people are once again bringing up $$$ gaming soundcards in a thread where the OP clearly uses a nice DAC to feed a (presumably) nice 2 channel audio setup is beyond me.

If the S/PDIF output on you're motherboard is not functioning to you're liking then you can just pick up a cheap soundcard or USB device that has S/PDIF out and you're all set.

We discussed this earlier too. I believe I said something along the lines of "$20 card, $200 card, same result." We only went into more expensive cards as a way to get his money from someone who owed him and was unlikely to pay cash, and I steered him towards the X-Fi over an HT-Claro since it would at least add those features for gaming so the extra money wouldn't be a total wash.

This was all covered in the last 20 posts that showed while I was replying. Cliffs are free this time, next time read them yourself? That, or, you might know this is the same horse I always flog with this topic. :D
 
Well im not ditching my ZERO. I took it out and ran off the card and the sound wasn't as clean or full. I also could not get my AV40s as loud without distortion. The ZERO is a big improvement. Trying to power my Denon headphones off the Titanium was even more of a joke. It just really lacked the power.
 
FWIW I wasn't suggesting getting a cheap soundcard to use the analog out's, just so you could get a different S/PDIF out to use.
 
Well im not ditching my ZERO. I took it out and ran off the card and the sound wasn't as clean or full. I also could not get my AV40s as loud without distortion. The ZERO is a big improvement. Trying to power my Denon headphones off the Titanium was even more of a joke. It just really lacked the power.

There you go.

A little first-hand experience adds more than I could in pages and pages of explanation - now you KNOW what it's contributing.
 
There you go.

A little first-hand experience adds more than I could in pages and pages of explanation - now you KNOW what it's contributing.

Yeah, I played a few different kinds of music then went back to the ZERO and played them again. The ZERO really helps. I imagine if the EAX works in games it should sound pretty good. Still on a fresh install so I will work on installing the games tonight. Thx again for your help!
 
For what it is worth..I have about the same set up. The only time my Zero shuts off is when there is static..Like when I touch the volume knob after walking in the room.
There is no spark or anything like that. Maybe change from optical to coaxial, but if you are hearing sound then your settings should be correct
 
For what it is worth..I have about the same set up. The only time my Zero shuts off is when there is static..Like when I touch the volume knob after walking in the room.
There is no spark or anything like that. Maybe change from optical to coaxial, but if you are hearing sound then your settings should be correct

It has to be a setting somewhere. I had a USB to optic out and tried that but had the same issue. It would turn off the zero. I dont mean it would wait a while to turn it off.. about 4 seconds after no sound it would click off. So everytime there was a windows sound. It would click on and off. My problem is solved with the Creative card though.
 
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