E8400 High Temps, PLZ HELP!

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crew10489

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Nov 6, 2007
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i just got my 8400 installed today in a asus 750i chipset board. it idles in the upper 40's to 50's celcius. i have a artic cooling freezer pro 7. i first tried installing it with the thermal grease pre applied to the heatsink. then i tried zalmans thermal paste ( which i theink is very good and i got lower temps with that than artic silver) but thats besides the point. why are my temps so high? thanks
 
When you pull the heatsink off, what does it looks like. Can you see a square of paste on the heatsink or is it more like a circle?

What method are you using to apply the paste?

What type of chasis cooling do you have?
 
hey, i also realized that the temps are shifting slot, like 5*C every few seconds on speed fan. could this mean anything?
 
crew10489 said:
hey, i also realized that the temps are shifting slot, like 5*C every few seconds on speed fan. could this mean anything?
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If it's Vista, than no. If it's XP, then yes. Vista doesn't like to let the cpu idle, so your temps are always changing. XP lets the cpu sit at 0% utilization.

I'm going to go with what the other poster said about the push pins. If you see a full square of paste on the heatsink, it's making contact across the entire heatspreader, it just must not be pushed down all the way.

My heatsink was free after rebate and does a pretty good job I think. Idles @ 33/31 and sometimes hits 29 if the room is cool. Under prime load @46/44. That's lapped heatsink though.
 
does anyone have any advice on re-mounting the heatsink then? im gonna try again later on wen i get home. and shold i re-applu thermal paste wen i re-mount it?
 
crew10489 said:
does anyone have any advice on re-mounting the heatsink then? im gonna try again later on wen i get home. and shold i re-applu thermal paste wen i re-mount it?
Click to expand...

Always re-apply the thermal compound when you remove and replace the heatsink, otherwise you might get gaps.
 
There are some known issues with the idle temp readings and the e8400. It seems that a lot of the temp programs out there are setting the TJMax too high for the 8400 (some agree with this and some don't). Take a look at This thread and make the decision for yourself. You need to atleast read the first post of the thread, there are ~30 pages, but the first one is the important one. I use RealTemp and it gives me a lot more believable idle temps, while still reporting the correct Delta to TJMax.

But you should still check your seating of the HS.
 
ok, so i tried, core temp, real temp, and the asus probe.
core temp is giving me 32C/36C (and the 36 never chnages)
realtemp is 21/26
asus probe is giving me upper 40's
i have no idea wats going on, but i jave heard that the new 45nm cpu's have temp problems. any ideas on wat one is right?
 
Did you read the first post of the thread I showed you? Also what is your ambient temp? If you take the FSB and the voltage down on your cpu with your HSF at 100% RealTemp should be about 3-5* above ambient. If it's not then there is some calibration you can do with RT to give you more accurate idle temps.

Does the 26* change in RealTemp? You can test your sensors to see if one of them is stuck.
 
it looks like the second one is stuck, but the first temp rises and lowers really fast. the temps are jumping each time the program updates like over 5* C sometimes
 
Some probes can get stuck at lower temps, but once they reach a certain temp they will start to work again. Did you click on the Test Sensors button on the bottom, or are you just watching it.

To get RealTemp to report close to proper idle temps you should calibrate it, according to the post I showed you. Once you do that I feel that the temps are very accurate.
 
i have no idea how to calabfate it, i read that thing and mist of it made no sence, wats the point of lowering the temp?
 
You are lower the amount of heat your cpu will create. If you take the FSB down and you take the voltage on your cpu down, the less voltage to the cpu the less heat it will create. With you HSF at 100% you are getting the best cooling you can get. This will help you calibrate RT so that it will show accurate idle temps. If you don't care about idle temps and only care about Delta to TJMax, then don't worry about the calibration. I wanted accurate and believable idle temps so I did the calibration.

What's your ambient temp? Air temperature of you house, apartment, whateva....
 
65*F is about 18*C. I would guess that RealTemp is actually showing lower temps than what it should be. 21/26C are not that high above your ambient temp, I think you would need a calibration of +1 or +2 to get more accurate idle temps.

To calibrate got into the RealTemp folder and open the RealTemp.ini file. Should be able to open it with Notepad. Change the Idle0=0 to Idle0=1 and change the Idle1=0 to Idle1=1. You can go as high as 3 or as low as -3 on the calibrations as long as you have the latest version of RealTemp.

Please realize that is is a guess on my part. Unless you do the low voltage/mhz calibration test you won't know what you need to calibrate RealTemp to. I am basing this on what I get on my CPU, but I have a different case and HSF than you.

Once you do the +1 calibration report back with what RealTemp says and maybe it will be closer to the truth. I highly suggest you do the low voltage/mhz test though. This will eliminate a lot of the guesswork.
 
If you know how to OC which by your sig I would assume that you do. Then you should be able to underclock your system. Plus it's in the first post of the link I gave you.

edit: just re-read. This is also in the post I linked to you, but your idle temps with the low voltage/mhz and your HSF at 100% should be about 3-5* above your ambient(room) temperature. Make the calibration adjustments either up of down so that the RealTemp idle temp is within 3-5* Once you do that you can return the cpu to it's previous state and Realtemp should be calibrated and giving you more accurate idle temps.
 
big problem!!! I need help. I lowered the voltage too low I think and when I turn the computer on nothing displays on the screen
 
Reset the CMOS. No more problem.


If you don't know what to do when the machine fails to boot after a settings change you have no business OCing and I refuse to help you any more (for your own good and the good of your machine) until you read up more on OCing. There's a very good thread stickied in this very forum -- check it out.
 
Did you lower the FSB too?

On my EVGA 780i I did 6x333 = 2.0ghz and my voltage was 1.10. That's the lowest my mobo would allow me to go. Make sure you turn down the FSB to creating an underclock for your cpu.
 
my last mother board had a feature that recovered any settings in case of a situation like this, never had to before
 
vcore: .8xxx
fsb lowest setting was 533 (but thats the auctual fsb, which im not used to)
and the multiplier to 6
 
+0.8 vcore? Or 0.8 vcore? I'd be surprised if it boots at 0.8, and if it's +0.8, you can pretty much kiss that chip goodbye.
 
I would set the vcore to 1.0 or somewhere around there. And try to get the mhz on the cpu around 2.0.
 
His problem is not voltage, set it to auto and forget it. His problem is heatsink related. You don't lower your stock voltage and lower your multiplier to create less heat. Yes it might work but that's not the right fix.
 
bigdogchris said:
His problem is not voltage, set it to auto and forget it. His problem is heatsink related. You don't lower your stock voltage and lower your multiplier to create less heat. Yes it might work but that's not the right fix.
Click to expand...

You don't understand what we're trying to accomplish here.

We're not saying he should run at 2Ghz with low vcore from now on, we're saying the chip will run very cool then and likely be no more than 2, 3C over ambient at idle, so he can then recalibrate the thermal sensor data and hopefully get something nearer the truth, rather than the unrealistically high temps he is now seeing.
 
silent-circuit said:
You don't understand what we're trying to accomplish here.

We're not saying he should run at 2Ghz with low vcore from now on, we're saying the chip will run very cool then and likely be no more than 2, 3C over ambient at idle, so he can then recalibrate the thermal sensor data and hopefully get something nearer the truth, rather than the unrealistically high temps he is now seeing.
Click to expand...

+1

We are trying to calibrate his RealTemp so that he can see if his temps are outlandish, or if it's because the other programs set the TJMax too high causing higher than normal idle temps.
 
i think i have them pretty close, i hope.... i get upper 40's on load and upper 20's and lower 30's near idle. i set it to +1. im not 100% sure of their right but i know my processor is not burming up casue theres not much heat comming outta my case. eventually i will get a new heatsink, problay a zalman 9700 again...i have one already but i lost a part thats required for intel sockets cause i used amd b4. after reading reviews, your better off ussing a different snap-on system than the regular one intel has to make sure u get a secure fit
 
You can probably ghettomod a new LGA775 mounting plate and use some hardware from Lowes or Home Depot or something for the 9700... but if you get a new HSF don't get another Zalman. Their price to performance is not very good. The Noctua HSF the [H] just reviewed destroys all the Zalmans for less cash, as does the Zerotherm Nirvana NV120 and Xigmatech RIFLE 120mm.
 
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