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Does this watercooling setup look good?

G

Gen.Ben

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
411
Well I am doing a over haul on my rig after christmas when I get some money. It will be including a good housing for future upgrades and watercooling so I can squeeze as much as I can out of my hardware.

These are my plans:

D-TEK Customs Fuzion CPU Water Block S478/LGA775/S939/AM2/S754 1/2IN Barbs

Swiftech MCP655-B 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump *Without Speed Adjustment* 1/2" Barbs

Masterkleer Pvc Tubing 7/16IN ID 5/9IN OD 10 Feet

D-TEK Customs 1/2IN G1/4 Chrome High Flow Barb Fittings (Pair) (a bunch of these)

nGear 120MM Chromed WIRE-FORMED Fan Grill ( a bunch of these)

Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power Water Cooling Radiator Black G1/4 Threaded

Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R ATX LGA775 Conroe P35 DDR2 1PCI-E16 3PCI-E1 SATA RAID Sound GBLAN Motherboard (need a new mobo so I have support for intels new procs)

Silverstone Temjin TJ04-BW Black ATX Case 4X5.25 2X3.5 4X3.5INT No PS W/ Window

Logisys CLK12GN2 12 inches Dual UV Cold Cathode Kit Dia 3.0MM 300MM 28,000 CD/M2

Swiftech Hydrx Water Additive Coolant 2 oz Bottle

Scythe Ultra Kaze 120MM High Static Pressure Silent Fan 38MM 2000RPM 87.6CFM 32.9DBA (3 of these for the rad, They are the huge ones)

Silverstone FP33-B Black Aluminum 3.5 Drive Bay 3 Port Fan Controller ( to control the huge fans on the rad, So I can turn the fans down when I go to bed :p)

Round Single IDE Device Cables 10" - Silver Braided UV Reactive Blue Round Single IDE Device Cables 10" - Silver Braided UV Reactive Blue

Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block

Serial ATA II Data Cable with latching mechanism 60cm (24") - Straight to Right Angle - UV Blue Serial ATA II Data Cable with latching mechanism 60cm (24") - Straight to Right Angle - UV Blue (lots of these)

Deluxe Wire Sleeving Kit - UV Blue (to get a little glow going on)

Tanky - Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir - UV Green

*** NEW *** EK-FC88 GT High Performance Water Block - Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube

Dual Head ATX & Auxiliary Molex Removal Tool (to sleeve the psu)



This is how I plan on setting it up

watersetup.png


Any suggestions on how to make this better without spending much more would be appreciated, also if you could comment on how my water loop would work that'd be great.

My hardware that I allready have

8800GT

Core 2 Duo E6300, Hold me over till I get money to get a new quad

2x 250gb sata's

DVDRW

550W psu

4GB memory
 
Post updated with those two products.

Thanks guys. Any more suggestions would be appreciated. Like, How does my loop look? Do you think it would cool good?
 
Honestly, it's good as is but if you can get 70-80$ more in the budget, get a Thermochill PA120.3 and you could ride on the same radiator for a very long time :)

 
That's what some others reccomended aswell.

If my budget allows it, I shall get it.

Thanks.
 
forgot a thing, get the D-Tek fuzion nozzles kit since it's cheap and will usually give you 1-3C better temps while fixing a water leak in the middle chamber ( not leaking outside but water lose pressure because the top and middle isn't sealed tight and will less water pressure, it is a bit less efficient). With the washer installed, the water will be directed directly to the base plate instead of spilling 10-15% in the middle chamber.

It's not required but since you didn't order anything yet, it's a cheap addition :)

 
I couldn't find a place that had the nozzle kit that shipped to canada that was in stock. If I find one I will add that to my list.
 
In my experience, getting a fillport is MUCH easier to use than a reservoir and a less noisy.. some reservoirs make a sloshy sound at times and I'll leave that to my fish tank.

Your schematic looks good though but one thing I have to tell you about the PA 120.3 is that it is MASSIVE... combined with the shroud and the 120 mm fans it is very thick and is not easy to mount without heavy modification to the case.

I'm not saying its bad (I own one myself) im just saying that if you're the type that likes things easy fit like legos.. its not gonna happen.
 
well i got a swiftech micro res and its a great res. no noises coming from it at all, bleeds fast, and looks at lot better than a tube coming down from the top of your case.
 
Wshmaster0 said:
In my experience, getting a fillport is MUCH easier to use than a reservoir and a less noisy.. some reservoirs make a sloshy sound at times and I'll leave that to my fish tank.

Your schematic looks good though but one thing I have to tell you about the PA 120.3 is that it is MASSIVE... combined with the shroud and the 120 mm fans it is very thick and is not easy to mount without heavy modification to the case.

I'm not saying its bad (I own one myself) im just saying that if you're the type that likes things easy fit like legos.. its not gonna happen.
Click to expand...

Hmm... A fillport? does that require a T-Line? The res that I want has a divider that I think would help alot with the sloshing.

I am aware of the PA 120.3 being huge. Although I might not even be including that rad in my loop if i cant afford it. I will be modding my case at the top for the screws to hold up the rad, and for the tubing to pass through. I made a thread about it http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1252840

Arcygenical said:
Where are you buying from?
Click to expand...
NCIX.com and Performance-PCs.com

Nick_Leo said:
well i got a swiftech micro res and its a great res. no noises coming from it at all, bleeds fast, and looks at lot better than a tube coming down from the top of your case.
Click to expand...

Personally I like the 5.25 Inch bay res. I want to see the liquid from the front of the case. My rad will be externally mounted on the top so tubes will be comming down from the top anyways.
 
Gen.Ben said:
Hmm... A fillport? does that require a T-Line? The res that I want has a divider that I think would help alot with the sloshing.

I am aware of the PA 120.3 being huge. Although I might not even be including that rad in my loop if i cant afford it. I will be modding my case at the top for the screws to hold up the rad, and for the tubing to pass through. I made a thread about it http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1252840
Click to expand...

This is a from an old setup I had. Since then I've replaced out the tubing with red. Also please ignore the fact that it doesn't have a back on the computer lol.. i was doing some routing with my wiring and so everything was out of place. The room was dark too so most of that yellowish tint is from the incandescent lamp. I use only distilled water and never mix copper with aluminum in the same loop.

Anyway it will give you an idea of what a fillport is. it does require a t-line but draining it is quite simple as well as filling.

shiva.jpg
 
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