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In preparation for trying to fit an SFX-L PSU in the M1 without using a custom bracket (and losing the second 120mm side mount area) or putting pressure on a GPU with a backplate, I tested whether the Method posted by Blah123 on Hardwareluxx.de[url] for modifying PCI-E power connectors to exit at a right-angle could be extended for the ATX 24-pin plug.
Short answer: yes, it appears.
Long answer: Yes, but it means that the rest of the plugs will need to be modified slightly differently, either to have the cables exit to the side or over/around the retention clips.
So here's a short guide.
You will need:
Step 1:
Remove all the pins from the PSU-end connector. This is the one with the 'narrow' retention clip, rather than the 'wide' one.
Note the way the wires are inserted; the 'top' cable will insert into the 'bottom' row of pins, and vice versa. Look at the connector, and you will see three wires labelled as I, II and III.
Mark wire I (I used PVC tape) on both cable ribbons.
Plug something into the unused pin 20 hole so you don;t forget (rolled up PVC tape worked for me)
Step 2:
Mark holes aligned with each pin. These holes should be 4mm from the 'top' of the connector.
Drill the 2.5mm holes through to the top 'chamber' of the connector (first row of pins), but stop before you drill into the second chamber. I messed this up with the first hole
Step 3:
Slice from the top of the connector down the the sides of the holes, to make a 'U-shaped' slot.
You can see where I drilled too far for the rightmost hole. I started out using a small hobby-saw to cut out the slots, but the sharp knife ended up being both faster and cleaner.
To cut the slots:
Start by cutting the thick upper section of plastic in line with the edges of the holes. Cut from the 'face' of the connector so you are only slicing into the lip:
Cut down (from the 'top' of the connector) on one side:
And the other:
Then clean up the slot by sliding the blade down the sides to remove any lumps, and scrape the blade along the bottom to clean up the drilled hole:
Completed row:
Step 4:
Drill another row of 2.5mm holes down into the bottom 'chamber'. Again, be careful not to go through the back wall of the connector. Drill the holes to the hole just touches the edge of the top edge of the connector.
Step 5:
Slice the U-shaped slots in the for back row. the plastic here is a lot thinner here, without the thick upper 'lip', so this is much easier:
Step 6:
Re-insert the pins. I found it easier to alternate between the top and bottom row rather than trying to insert a whole row at a time, due to the need to interleave the wires. Once all the wires are inserted, pus them down to a right-angle with the connector. You may need a pair of tweezers or a similar thin object to guide in the lower wire.
Finished connector:
Almost totally flat! Unlike the connector modified by Blah123, the sires of the PP05-E are flexible enough to bend out and sit there without needing to cut into the insulation. I will likely seal the wires with either hot glue, a flexible epoxy, or Sugru (an air-curing silicone rubber) anyway just to keep the wires in place while the connector is manipulated. Not too worried about the hot glue remelting for the ATX 24-pin connector, but the PCI-E connectors the wires may heat up enough for that to be an issue.
As mentioned earlier, the port layout on the SX500-LG means that having the wires exit the ATX 24-pin plug this way impinges on the other smaller plugs. These will likely need to be more aggressively cut down to allow the wires to pass, but with how flexible the wires in the PP05-E are I don't think this will be too much of an issue.
I do not yet have an SX500-LG with which to test clearance.
Short answer: yes, it appears.
Long answer: Yes, but it means that the rest of the plugs will need to be modified slightly differently, either to have the cables exit to the side or over/around the retention clips.
So here's a short guide.
You will need:
- The [url=http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=438]Silverstone PP05-E
- replacement modular cable set.
- Molex Mini-fit Jr. pin removal tool (I used a pair of bent staples)
- A pin-vice (tool to hold a drill bit and rotate it by hand)
- A SHARP hobby knife (chisel-style Scalpel blade works well)
- Ruler or callipers (recommended)
- (Optional but recommended) Sharp pointed scribe/awl
- (Optional but recommended) Rubber-jawed vice
- (Optional) hot glue or epoxy + plastic plate to cap the connector
Step 1:
Remove all the pins from the PSU-end connector. This is the one with the 'narrow' retention clip, rather than the 'wide' one.
Note the way the wires are inserted; the 'top' cable will insert into the 'bottom' row of pins, and vice versa. Look at the connector, and you will see three wires labelled as I, II and III.
Mark wire I (I used PVC tape) on both cable ribbons.
Plug something into the unused pin 20 hole so you don;t forget (rolled up PVC tape worked for me)
Step 2:
Mark holes aligned with each pin. These holes should be 4mm from the 'top' of the connector.
Drill the 2.5mm holes through to the top 'chamber' of the connector (first row of pins), but stop before you drill into the second chamber. I messed this up with the first hole
Step 3:
Slice from the top of the connector down the the sides of the holes, to make a 'U-shaped' slot.
You can see where I drilled too far for the rightmost hole. I started out using a small hobby-saw to cut out the slots, but the sharp knife ended up being both faster and cleaner.
To cut the slots:
Start by cutting the thick upper section of plastic in line with the edges of the holes. Cut from the 'face' of the connector so you are only slicing into the lip:
Cut down (from the 'top' of the connector) on one side:
And the other:
Then clean up the slot by sliding the blade down the sides to remove any lumps, and scrape the blade along the bottom to clean up the drilled hole:
Completed row:
Step 4:
Drill another row of 2.5mm holes down into the bottom 'chamber'. Again, be careful not to go through the back wall of the connector. Drill the holes to the hole just touches the edge of the top edge of the connector.
Step 5:
Slice the U-shaped slots in the for back row. the plastic here is a lot thinner here, without the thick upper 'lip', so this is much easier:
Step 6:
Re-insert the pins. I found it easier to alternate between the top and bottom row rather than trying to insert a whole row at a time, due to the need to interleave the wires. Once all the wires are inserted, pus them down to a right-angle with the connector. You may need a pair of tweezers or a similar thin object to guide in the lower wire.
Finished connector:
Almost totally flat! Unlike the connector modified by Blah123, the sires of the PP05-E are flexible enough to bend out and sit there without needing to cut into the insulation. I will likely seal the wires with either hot glue, a flexible epoxy, or Sugru (an air-curing silicone rubber) anyway just to keep the wires in place while the connector is manipulated. Not too worried about the hot glue remelting for the ATX 24-pin connector, but the PCI-E connectors the wires may heat up enough for that to be an issue.
As mentioned earlier, the port layout on the SX500-LG means that having the wires exit the ATX 24-pin plug this way impinges on the other smaller plugs. These will likely need to be more aggressively cut down to allow the wires to pass, but with how flexible the wires in the PP05-E are I don't think this will be too much of an issue.
I do not yet have an SX500-LG with which to test clearance.