Delidded 6700k

KIAman

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 17, 2013
Messages
288
I've been building my own systems for a long time so I'm pretty experienced but I've never delidded a CPU before.
I did a lot of research on instructions and the pros/cons.

I have a Noctua NH-D14 with 2 fans as a cooler and used AS5.

Before delid, I was able to run 4.5ghz @ 1.35v but Prim95 always forced my CPU to shut down from heat protection, climbing beyond 90c.

After delid, I am now able to run 4.7ghz @ 1.4v and my CPU does not go over 68c loaded. In the end, totally worth it IMO. I was reading on how much difference it could make but I could hardly believe my own results.

1. Used double sided razor (it's super thin) I got from target in a 5 pack for 2 bux.
2. Used double sided sticky foam tape to completely tape off one side of the blade
3. Just patiently slide the blade in the corner and slide it back and forth until it the blade goes in about 1/4 of an inch
4. Cut all around the lid using gentle sawing motion, the blade will just slice right through the glue
5. All done in less than 5 minutes
 
Thats good to see since I'll be using my Noctua NH-D14 also. (pumps die!)
I'm not quite brave enough to use a razor though, I ordered a delid tool from Rockit Cool along with the relid tool and some CLU.
Now I just have to decide between a 6700k or 7700k, it all depends on what deals are available after the holidays in January.
 
Thats good to see since I'll be using my Noctua NH-D14 also. (pumps die!)
I'm not quite brave enough to use a razor though, I ordered a delid tool from Rockit Cool along with the relid tool and some CLU.
Now I just have to decide between a 6700k or 7700k, it all depends on what deals are available after the holidays in January.

If you're buying new then get the 7700k. It's much of a choice, its that obvious imo.
 
If you're buying new then get the 7700k. It's much of a choice, its that obvious imo.
Its not quite that simple in my case.
I bought an Asus Z170-A mobo on black friday sale, and there's no way to tell which bios it came with.......so i don't know if it will post with a 7700k if it doesn't have the latest bios with Kaby Lake support added.
I'd have to take that chance and if it doesn't boot, buy a cheap cpu to get the board to post just to update the bios.
Not sure it is worth the chance/hassle/extra cost.
 
Its not quite that simple in my case.
I bought an Asus Z170-A mobo on black friday sale, and there's no way to tell which bios it came with.......so i don't know if it will post with a 7700k if it doesn't have the latest bios with Kaby Lake support added.
I'd have to take that chance and if it doesn't boot, buy a cheap cpu to get the board to post just to update the bios.
Not sure it is worth the chance/hassle/extra cost.

Take it to a shop and ask them to flash it. It couldn't cost more than a twelver of beer.
 
2. Used double sided sticky foam tape to completely tape off one side of the blade
This part is actually pretty damn brilliant. It adds a physical barrier to prevent the blade from slipping, cutting in too deep, then accidentally hitting a trace or one of those surface mount capacitors near the CPU.

I will remember this if I end up de-lidding a chip in the future.
 
did you relid after changing thermal paste or run it naked?

I relidded it after changing the paste. I wasn't sure if my cooler would even make contact with the bare CPU without the added height of the lid.
 
I relidded it after changing the paste. I wasn't sure if my cooler would even make contact with the bare CPU without the added height of the lid.

If you have to wonder, going bare die is not the right choice.

When I delidded, I was surprised I saw my voltages drop. I asked others who had delidded and not many seemed to note a difference. I checked with the two guys at Anand with 7700ks, no change in their voltages. However, I saw 2 hundredths, sometimes nearly 3 hundredths drop in voltage. Core temps dropped 20c to 30c as well of course.
 
Last edited:


Before

RjW0bbL.jpg




After

JbxkkID.jpg


And this is Prime 28.10 running Blend with memory at 3733mhz.
 
That's crazy. Was there a defect with your chip? My 6700K has never hit those temps, I don't have as much voltage hitting it either though I suppose.
 
That's crazy. Was there a defect with your chip? My 6700K has never hit those temps, I don't have as much voltage hitting it either though I suppose.

I'm running Prime Blend 28.10. Blend is very hard, especially on the later builds. Were you running blend with very high clocked ram?? Try it out. The beginning test alone pushes the cores to 60c, before the real test even kicks in. The two guys at Anand who got 7700k, delidded, they won't even run Blend lol. I keep asking them to run blend so I can see exactly what their chips are capable of. Running Small fft is let down imo as the load on small doesn't even pull max voltage. Like for ex, if I ran small pre-delid, small would only draw 1.360v whereas Blend pushes my cpu to draw 1.376v or higher.
 
I was able to trim more voltage. I'm gonna have to set aside some time to trim all my profiles now.

oKYj2Xr.jpg
 
Now to be fair. I quickly applied AS5 and put my PC together before the delid so I might not have done a good enough job being careful. However, just running p95 forced my PC to shutdown for thermal protection. It took about 30 minutes. The first 10 minutes, the temps were tolerable around 70-80c but out of nowhere, the temps climbed to over 90 before my PC shutdown.

I've lowered my voltage to 1.375 and it passes intel burn test and occt but cannot pass p95 blend. So back up to 1.4 and still happy.


This part is actually pretty damn brilliant. It adds a physical barrier to prevent the blade from slipping, cutting in too deep, then accidentally hitting a trace or one of those surface mount capacitors near the CPU.

I will remember this if I end up de-lidding a chip in the future.

The funny thing was I mainly used it to not cut my fingers up but it had the secondary advantage of adding a safety net of how far the blade could go.
 
You can only go bare die if your cooler footprint is smaller than the CPU socket.
Otherwise it will sit on the edges of the socket, not the die.
You need a spacer to prevent chipping the edges of the core and to prevent the chip bending.
 
You can only go bare die if your cooler footprint is smaller than the CPU socket.
Otherwise it will sit on the edges of the socket, not the die.
You need a spacer to prevent chipping the edges of the core and to prevent the chip bending.

there are couple of retention brackets made for direct die cooling, even some motherboard manufacturers provide their own tool. as the case of MSI as example.

500x1000px-LL-f05e58ef_764888d1409173925-review-msi-z97-xpower-ac-titel_2.png


there are other like this one which also are going to work perfect for direct die cooling..

screenshota005.jpg


but also a cooler mounting modification may also be needed on some coolers.. as the steps mentioned here
 
there are couple of retention brackets made for direct die cooling, even some motherboard manufacturers provide their own tool. as the case of MSI as example.

500x1000px-LL-f05e58ef_764888d1409173925-review-msi-z97-xpower-ac-titel_2.png


there are other like this one which also are going to work perfect for direct die cooling..

View attachment 13445

but also a cooler mounting modification may also be needed on some coolers.. as the steps mentioned here
Interesting.
I wonder if a better contact is made with this
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3378
They included this note
Important note:
The usage of the CPU without the heatspreader makes it necessary to pay attention to the contact surface of heat sink. If its contact surface is too large it can rest on the plastic corners of the CPU socket. Since these corners are slightly higher than the CPU die, an incompatible heat sink could have no contact at all!

This is Skylake specific.
 
That's why the examples i've posted are better for direct die cooling as those allow to remove the CPU retention bracket from the motherboard.. that aquacomputer spacer don't do anything special really, look at the MSI Delid Die Guard how it allow to remove the retention bracket and still offer solid protection and retention to the CPU PCB without having to care about cooler footprint as happen with the aquacomputer spacer, if you are looking to go direct die, I would look for a retention like the MSI one. as far I know they sold one version for each CPU generation.
 
That's why the examples i've posted are better for direct die cooling as those allow to remove the CPU retention bracket from the motherboard.. that aquacomputer spacer don't do anything special really, look at the MSI Delid Die Guard how it allow to remove the retention bracket and still offer solid protection and retention to the CPU PCB without having to care about cooler footprint as happen with the aquacomputer spacer, if you are looking to go direct die, I would look for a retention like the MSI one. as far I know they sold one version for each CPU generation.

The spacer sits a tiny bit lower than the die surface so full contact is guaranteed.
Other methods cannot do this when they cover the whole socket because it is higher than the die surface.
Thats why I question the effectiveness.
 
Its not quite that simple in my case.
I bought an Asus Z170-A mobo on black friday sale, and there's no way to tell which bios it came with.......so i don't know if it will post with a 7700k if it doesn't have the latest bios with Kaby Lake support added.
I'd have to take that chance and if it doesn't boot, buy a cheap cpu to get the board to post just to update the bios.
Not sure it is worth the chance/hassle/extra cost.

Asus mobos have this nifty feature called usb bios flashback.
 
I think this is one of the worst way to do it the hammer method

So what type of material is good for gluing back the cover?

 
Last edited:
I think this is one of the worst way to do it the hammer method

So what type of material is good for gluing back the cover?




There is no point in gluing the lid back on.
However, a dob of black RTV should work fine.
 
There is no point in gluing the lid back on.
However, a dob of black RTV should work fine.

I do a small dot of crazy glue on two corners then rtv. Who has time to wait for rtv to set? From the outside you can't tell its been relidded too.
 
I think this is one of the worst way to do it the hammer method

So what type of material is good for gluing back the cover?



I considered doing this approach (similar to the compression approach) but after handling the 6700k, the pcb that the chip is on is actually pretty thin and fragile. The heatspreader is like 10x tougher than the pcb. I imagined crushing the pcb long before the heatspreader gave way.
 
Are most people here going naked? I just repasted and then put it back on. Delidding was really pretty easy and I'm not a pro builder by any measure.
 
I found the stuff used to seal the processor lid back on the chip in the Walmart hardware dept.

There about 6 different tubes in the auto dept. I seen the RTV stuff which was good for 600 degrees but it was red and there was some silicon stuff like in the video
There also was a tube that is for pistons that was tolerant to grease. Also a black one that was silicon based.
 
I was contemplating to ask somebody to delid my 6700k and actually did here, but in all responses alongside withe price tag for this operation I always got the message that it's not really worth it. Now I'm in doubts again. I run [email protected] on Cryorig A8 with standard rpm and it doesn't go above 70 C in realbench stresstest.
 
I was contemplating to ask somebody to delid my 6700k and actually did here, but in all responses alongside withe price tag for this operation I always got the message that it's not really worth it. Now I'm in doubts again. I run [email protected] on Cryorig A8 with standard rpm and it doesn't go above 70 C in realbench stresstest.
Do you suffer framerate loss due to cpu maxing out?
 
Do you suffer framerate loss due to cpu maxing out?

Nope. I'm quite far from it at 1440p. The cpu rarely goes beyond 60% utilization in any game, including GTA 5 and Witcher 3. The only game that still seems cpu bound us Attila when closing in with max number of units.
 
Then they are right, its not really worth it unless it causes you a problem in Attila.
 
Delidding mine soon with the Rockit Cool 88 delid tool. I have done the hammer and vice method with success to a 4770k and then just the vice method without issue but then I saw how thin the PCB is on the skylake and don't want to risk it.


http://rockitcool.myshopify.com/
 
Damn. I'd love to delid mine, but I'm a total noob and would totally F something. Also, I would definitely prefer to cool it bare rather than relid - especially if I could find the bracket or something that would work with the cpu cooler I have (AIO H115i).

Time to go on an internet binge.....
 
Just delid my 6700K and got a drop in temps of around 10C.
Just used mx4 between die and ihs and waterblock.
now running around 50C using prime95.
Delid.jpg

Used razor blade method and was very easy to do.
Replaced IHS but not bothered to glue it back down just left it floating.
 
Before delid, I was able to run 4.5ghz @ 1.35v but Prim95 always forced my CPU to shut down from heat protection, climbing beyond 90c.

After delid, I am now able to run 4.7ghz @ 1.4v and my CPU does not go over 68c loaded. In the end, totally worth it IMO. I was reading on how much difference it could make but I could hardly believe my own results.

Holy crap that's really close to watercooling temps.
 
Damn. I'd love to delid mine, but I'm a total noob and would totally F something. Also, I would definitely prefer to cool it bare rather than relid - especially if I could find the bracket or something that would work with the cpu cooler I have (AIO H115i).

Time to go on an internet binge.....

There's a 30 bucks tool you can get to do it
 
Back
Top