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December 2011 Build

D

Dark_Legacy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
251
Hey guys, time for another [H]ard|OCP inspired build! You guys helped me out in 2008, the system that I assembled then, can run Skyrim right now at the highest settings! But as always, no enthusiast is ever content with "just barely". We always need 16x MSAA & AF!

I find that in general, I'm technically saavy enough to buy components that I think are good, but you guys are masters of the good deal. For example, I don't really know how to test PSU Quality, or other small intricacies, you do!

I've already bought the PSU and GPU for this build on Black Friday - call it the Black Friday inspired build, because of the deep discount on the graphics card, however the new PSU (which was required for it) doesn't fit in my current case! Why buy a new case and use old components, amiright?

Intended Purpose: Strictly Gaming Machine.
Budget: ±$1200, tax & shipping included.
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Maximum Resolution: 1920x1080
Monitor Size: 24"
Overclocking: CPU + RAM, yes.
Build Date: Dec, 2011
Features Required: PCI-Express Boot**, RAID-0**, GIGABIT Ethernet**, USB 3.0**, Z68** Chipset, Quad-Core/i5 Support**, Crossfire* (?) - Unsure if required for HD5970
OS: Windows 7 64-bit, Legitimate

Hardware
CASE: Corsair 600T White (Cost: $190)
PSU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer MK.II 950W (Paid: $140)*
MOBO: ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 (Cost: $190) *updated - thanks
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K, Quad Core, LGA 1155 (Cost: $225)
CPUC: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ (Cost: $26)
CPUG: Arctic Cooling MX-4 (Cost: $13)
RAM: Corsair Vengance 16GB DDR3-1600 (Cost: $90)
GPU: ATi Radeon HD 5970 (Paid: $300)*
SSD: OCZ RevoDrive 120GB (Recycling, $280)
HDD: 2x Samsung 500GB SATA (Recycling, $200)
HDD2: 2x Hitachi 1TB SATA (Recycling, $300)
SND: VIA Envy24 GT (Recycling, $42)
DVD: LITE-ON Black 18X DVD-ROM (Cost: $25)
DVDRW: ASUS 24X DVD Burner (Cost: $25)
FANS: 2x SCYTHE 120mm KAZE High Performance (Recycling, $26)
FANC: Scythe KazeMaster, 4-channel (Recycling, $20)

Recycled Value: $868
Already Paid: $440

Total Cost: $1,220

Thanks for your advice guys!
 
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Personally I'd change up the ram, and get 16GB of 1600 instead of 8 gigs of 2133 for the same price. Just make sure whatever you get fits under your cpu cooler.

I also don't like ASRock for MoBos, would go with an Asus, Gigabyte, or MSI.

As for your DVD drives/BluRay, how often do you actually use them? Personally I haven't touched my DVD drive in over a year. If you plan on renting and watching a lot of BluRay movies, by all means get a new one. Otherwise, your current drives should be fine.
 
No point at all in getting 2133 RAM - there is virtually no performance difference between even 1333 and higher speeds for SB. Just get 8GB of DDR3-1600 for around $45 and be happy. I would also ditch the Arctic Silver 5 for something non-capacitive like MX-4, that way you don't have to worry about getting it on any other components. Also, the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ is going to be pretty much the same performance as that Zalman, and only costs about $25, so I'd think about swapping out for that as well.
 
Be ready To oc that 2500k, I'm at 4.2 (oc genie cause I have had time to do stability) and there are points I'm both CPU and GPU limited. I don't think there will ever be a point where my CPU wont hold me back a bit. But it's fully playable (never below 60fps at ultra+ini tweaks). But 120 looks so good.
 
Forceman said:
No point at all in getting 2133 RAM - there is virtually no performance difference between even 1333 and higher speeds for SB. Just get 8GB of DDR3-1600 for around $45 and be happy. I would also ditch the Arctic Silver 5 for something non-capacitive like MX-4, that way you don't have to worry about getting it on any other components. Also, the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ is going to be pretty much the same performance as that Zalman, and only costs about $25, so I'd think about swapping out for that as well.
Click to expand...

Thank you to all of you for your advice!

I changed out the motherboard, ram, grease, and cooler on the list.

I personally prefer Cooler Master also, Forceman; I just figured with all the rave reviews the last Zalman got, that it would be a good CPU cooler.

See what I meant when I said you guys knew your stuff? You already saved me a bunch of money, at the same time picking out better components. :D

Now, what do you guys think of that particular ASUS mobo, and any other advice? I don't really watch BluRay movies on my box (I use it basically solely for gaming and browsing the 'net), would I get any benefit from using SATA DVD/DVD+RW, given how old IDE already is?
 
I would drop down to the -V Pro at least (maybe even the vanilla -V) unless you have to have the extra ports that the Deluxe and Pro provide (second NIC for the Deluxe, extra SATA 6GB and 1394 for Deluxe and Pro). Performance-wise the vanilla -V is going to be the same as either the Pro or Deluxe.

None of those boards even has an IDE connector, so if you want optical drives, you'll have to either get a new drive (easiest) or an adapter or add-in card.
 
Forceman said:
I would drop down to the -V Pro at least (maybe even the vanilla -V) unless you have to have the extra ports that the Deluxe and Pro provide (second NIC for the Deluxe, extra SATA 6GB and 1394 for Deluxe and Pro). Performance-wise the vanilla -V is going to be the same as either the Pro or Deluxe.

None of those boards even has an IDE connector, so if you want optical drives, you'll have to either get a new drive (easiest) or an adapter or add-in card.
Click to expand...

I'm going to be using my old SATA-2 drives, so I don't need all the extra SATA connectors, though they might be useful at some point in the future. Dual NIC is also unncessary.

I'll nab the vanilla -V. Also funny thing about that RAM, since I posted it here, it sold out. Newegg tends to do that when they realize they've accidentally under-priced something.
 
Yeah the p8z68-v itself is fine, though if you want to future proof it get the GEN 3, which has PCI-E 3.0, that's the one I have personally.

As for DVD, simply pick up a new dvd drive, cheap ones go for like $20, and it'll work better than your old IDEs.

Edit: Your case might also be overkill for the parts your getting. Honestly any $80-$110 mid ATX case will do you fine, since you don't run SLI a six core or w/e. Just find one with 4 internal 3.5 bays, 1 2.5 or a converted 2.5, and i guess one external 5.25 for cd.
 
Tsuyoi said:
Yeah the p8z68-v itself is fine, though if you want to future proof it get the GEN 3, which has PCI-E 3.0, that's the one I have personally.

As for DVD, simply pick up a new dvd drive, cheap ones go for like $20, and it'll work better than your old IDEs.

Edit: Your case might also be overkill for the parts your getting. Honestly any $80-$110 mid ATX case will do you fine, since you don't run SLI a six core or w/e. Just find one with 4 internal 3.5 bays, 1 2.5 or a converted 2.5, and i guess one external 5.25 for cd.
Click to expand...

The HD5970 is about 12" long, 3-4" wide, and the PSU has a gajillion wires. The 600T is also, just quite plain sexy. :p Besides, we were speaking of future proofing. I might get watercooling in the future, more drives, or something like that. I need all the room I can get.
 
I really like the Stormtrooper look of that case. If I didn't have a relatively new case, I'd get one myself.
 
Lol hey if you like the case, go for it. I picked up the Antec P183 for like $110, and it fits my beast GTX580 Lightning (13'' long), psu with wires, 2 HDD, 1 SSD, 2 5.25 external, etc just fine. Plus it has space and pre-alotted ports for watercooling. But if you got the money and space, that stormtrooper case is damned sexy.
 
Ordered it yesterday night, it's officially a build! :D

Major thanks everyone, you've been absolutely awesome
 
Just thought I'd update everyone on the status of this build.

It took a while because of finals coming up, but I spent the day today.

Total Build Time: 7 hours, 0 minutes.
Total Software/Config Time: 2 hours, 0 minutes.

I managed to overclock the 2500K to 4.3 GHz @ 1.2V, running stable on Intel Burn with a 73C Load Temp. In the lieu of safety, I've reverted to 4.2 GHz on the same voltage, which shows temps of about 60-65C with the Hyper 212+.

Yes, I know that Intel Burn is a synthetic benchmark and real-world scenarios will never actually push the CPU to that envelope, but I want a rock-solid overclock. CPU is currently humming happily at 30C Idle.

Now, the ASUS motherboard downclocked the RAM from 1600 MHz to 1333 MHz. I put that back up to normal, but I'm not sure of the RAM timings. I'd use the ASUS "XMP" thing, but I'm afraid it'll mess up my CPU ratios.

Anyone have any advice for the Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz series?
 
I would normally tell you to let the computer handle the RAM, but since you've already started adjusting the settings, place the RAM back to its rated timings.

Did you get the regular Vengeance RAM with the tall heatspreaders or the low-profile version of the RAM? If it's the latter, I would recommend buying a second fan for a push-pull configuration on the Hyper 212 Plus.
 
Forceman said:
No point at all in getting 2133 RAM - there is virtually no performance difference between even 1333 and higher speeds for SB. Just get 8GB of DDR3-1600 for around $45 and be happy. I would also ditch the Arctic Silver 5 for something non-capacitive like MX-4, that way you don't have to worry about getting it on any other components. Also, the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ is going to be pretty much the same performance as that Zalman, and only costs about $25, so I'd think about swapping out for that as well.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't even bother with extra thermal compound, the stuff included with the 212+ is fine.
 
tiraides said:
I would normally tell you to let the computer handle the RAM, but since you've already started adjusting the settings, place the RAM back to its rated timings.

Did you get the regular Vengeance RAM with the tall heatspreaders or the low-profile version of the RAM? If it's the latter, I would recommend buying a second fan for a push-pull configuration on the Hyper 212 Plus.
Click to expand...

I got the low-profile ram. What exactly is a push-pull configuration?

Why set it back to rated? The motherboard wants to run the ram at 1333 MHz, I set it to 1600 MHz. I didn't adjust timings, only clock speed.
 
Regarding fans, a push-pull configuration is when you have the "front" fan (closer to the front of the case) serve as an intake ("pushing" cool air into the heatsink) and the rear fan as the exhaust ("pulling" the out air away from the processor/heatsink).

Honestly, if you're using the processor's unlocked CPU multiplier to overclock, then the RAM would be fine at 1333 MHz. Since everything works fine, don't make any more adjustments.
 
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