Debezelling the Rog Swift (Photo Tutorial Odyssey)

l88bastard

2[H]4U
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Oct 25, 2009
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So I am a portrait orientated whore. Many of you know me for my copy cat debezzeled 5x1 Vegamatic display setup that shook the entire planet a half degree off its rotational axisa few years ago.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/l88bastard/5x1club1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/l88bastard/5x1club3.jpg

So now I am back. Back with three Rog Swifts begging to be debezelled and a tool drawer full of hammers, electrical tape and flat head screw drivers! So is there hidden gold to be found underneath the Rog Swifts Plastic Backside? Will the plundered bezelless booty be worth the warranty voiding risk? I will answer all of those intriguing questions soon, but first a word from our sponser...CHIIIIIWWWAAAAAWWWWAAAAAHHH BEEER....when you feeling thirsty grab a chiiiiiiwwwwaaaaaaawwwwaaaaahhhhh!!!!


Ok that was great, thank you chiiiwwwaaaawwaaaah beer, your sponsership keeps me intoxicated 24-7....so first things first. Take your Swift, spin it around and remove the rubber stoppers from its backside. This will reveal the phillips head screws and allow you to detach it from the adjustable stand.

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Once all four screws are removed, you can see that its a clean break. Interesting to see the connections for the power to the red ring base, please do not attempt to lick the exposed metal connections while the monitor is still plugged no matter how tempted you are! VESA freaks take note that once the screws are out you can easily connect the swift to your own freakish VESA stand of your perverted choosing.

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Next there is a single small screw filling up a blow hole on the base of the display, unscrew this sucker and try and refrain from swallowing it as you may want to save it as a snack for later.


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Now your ready to punch yourself in the nuts! The Swift Bezel is like no other...meaning its a real pain in the fucking ass. You have to gently (or not so gently if thats your bag) wedge some flat screw heads in between the face of the bezel.

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After working several of the screw heads into the face of the bezel, you can begin to pry the entire assembly free. At this point you will want to keep other foreign objects wedged into areas that you have already pried free as this will prevent the bezel from popping back into the base and ensure that the game of wack a bezel is not needlessly dragged on. I found that wedging the handle size of sizzors into the exposed areas was both dangerous and progressively exciting for keeping my debezell popping progress on track!

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After some bloody mishaps some real progress is made and you can sort of begin to lift the entire screen assembly out of the bezel casing....but then you notice how everything is looslely connected inside like a spider web from hell and then begin to second guess the eight shots of patron and five chiiiiwaaahhhhwaaahhh lights that you have taken in so far. And then you begin to realize that humpty dumpty may be a real pain in the ass to put back together again....all the while as you are teetering over the point of no return you sense Gerard Butler hovering behind you in a creepy mask, calling you Christine....Christine....you dirty.......

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Being a dumbass that always errors off the side of stupidity....I had a moment of lucid relaps and realized that the entire debezelling process is completly fucking futile with the Rog Swift because THERE IS NO BEZEL to remove. Because of the way they designed the display casing, it sits inside a bezel exoskeleton and that bezel exoskeleton is not the problem....the actual metallic bezel case on the bottom of the display is fatter than on the top and sides, so even if you remove the display casing it still has that big fat area...so its bezel inception and unless you are Callsign Vega and willing to perform some serious surgery and open up the actual display casing (NOT RECOMMENDED) then you are wasting your time :mad:

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I hope you enjoyed wasting your time reading this futile mess as much as I hated doing it!
 
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well since you already opened it up, you should attempt removing the antiglare film :D
 
Did removing the rubber stoppers on the VESA mount reduce input lag at all?
 
don't know about him, but YEA it totally did for my vg248qe. as soon as i removed the plugs for the screws the screen immediately felt 4 times more responsive and i instantly ranked up in csgo. then i tried crysis 3 and i was able to get 300fps whereas before i was struggling to get 50 fps !!!
 
I hope to see single curved display like this and art of debezelling dying b4 my EOL :D.

Yea a 32-36" 120hz ULMB 4K with a slight curve would be my uber mucho wanto displayo

Did removing the rubber stoppers on the VESA mount reduce input lag at all?
No but it broke BF4s net code and now I can only play on a server for five minutes before being auto booted as the lack of rubber stoppers has been identified as a L33T hack by punkbuster :(

Best way to rectify the situation :D
I was actually just going to sell two of them for a slight markup since portrait is a bust for me.

I did that with my old VG24QEs and it wasn't worth the hassle because I only keep displays for a month or two before getting bored of em.

Yo dawg, I heard you like bezels...
So we gave you a big booty kim kardashian brazillian butlift bezel within a bezel to drive around in a bezel
 
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Damn it, that's really disappointing to read. Thank you for taking the time and energy to open one of these up!

I have the same issue with these eizo's, the bottom portion of the display casing is thicker than all of the other sides. I wonder if they have to do that because something has to go in that part of the casing. It just sucks that we can't get a symmetrical display for a perfect surround set up. :(
 
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