Deathadder dying again, good quality alternatives?

M

metallicaband

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Messages
484
Hey all,

I'm very used to the comfortable grip of my Razer deathadder, but the left click is starting to double click a lot recently and that's very annoying, can't even highlight things properly, I had one before that did the same thing and ended up having to replace it.

I used to play a lot of League of Legends before so figured that's what killed the mouse so got another one, but I've barely done much gaming with my current one (I mostly use controller these days for the games I play the most) that I own for around a year now and the issue is starting to happen again so I'm not too eager to get a 3rd deathadder if there are some other good options with similar comfortable grip.

Any help would be appreciated it guys.
 
yeah every razer mouse i've owned has done the same thing after about 15-16 months, had one last 3 years but i was barely using my computer during that time due to work. personally i've had no issues with logitech mouses, definitely liking the G203 right now since i'm not gaming as much these days and don't need some crazy ass 10 button mouse or 5 million dpi(/s) but still like having the extra 2 buttons for when i do get time to game.
 
I've had enough Logitechs (about 7-8, MX revolution, MX1100, LX8 among others) that suffered from the same symptom. And not only Logitechs.
A4 (Blody) has a very similar mouse that may please your requirement - Bloody V3m. I have mine for 3+ years, not a single glitch. Its metal feet are the absolute perfection on my Razer Sphex v2 pad! No teflon feet can match the feeling of these metal feet of this mouse. Not any of what I've tested so far.
Another solution is to use an Autohotkey script that alleviates some of the problems with double clicking. I have used such script for a year with one of my old logitechs when I got pissed of opening the mouse and fixing the spring in the omron button every 3-4 months.
Eventually I switched back to A4s (Bloodys) and at least I didn't have any issues with double clicks with them (as much cheaper as they are compared to razers and logitechs!).
 
Yup. The scroll wheel on my Razer gave out after ~1 year. Right after warranty expiration. It's a known issue with that mouse and could have been fixed by using a part that costs $0.50c more than the part they use. Instead, my mouse broke and I ended up spending $80. And it was not for a Razer mouse, nor well I ever buy one again.

I'm really happy with g703. There is no input lag and the sensor is great. The fact that it's wireless & charges wirelessly off the mousepad makes it more convenient, but that wouldn't matter if the mouse weren't good at being a mouse. It's a very good mouse.
 
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My Corsair Scimitar middle button has given up after 2 and a bit years.
fyi
 
If you can find one, the best damn mouse ever made is the Logitech MX-518. It should never have been discontinued.

Nearly every Logitech mouse I've thrown away has been because of the clickers.

We need MX to make clicker switches :)
 
Have you tried the DeathAdder Elite yet? I go through a DeathAdder every year or two (double click issues) and decided to give them one more chance with the redesigned Elite. I picked it up back in February and it is better than the standard Deathadder Chroma in every conceivable way. The switches are supposed to be much more durable too, but I can't comment on that just yet as I've only been using it for seven or eight months. Zero issues so far though.
 
My corsair M65 (pro rgb) has begun to exhibit the same issues with double clicking. Around 2-3 years old. Not what I expected for something that a $5 mouse wouldn't have any issue with.

My recommendation would be something cheap as long as its comfortable for you.
 
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Neapolitan6th said:
My corsair M65 (pro rgb) has begun to exhibit the same issues with double clicking. Around 2-3 years old. Not what I expected for something that a $5 mouse wouldn't have any issue with.

My reccomendation would be something cheap as long as its comfortable for you.
Click to expand...

Most mice use the same cheap omron switches that will eventually happen with. Unless you get a higher end gaming mouse that specifically advertises something else, most don't.
 
I come to save your day! (And probably many others') :cool:

I've had my same Razer Copperhead since 2005! I too went through the issue of the multiple phantom clicks, and was unwilling to part with my dear friend.

The fix is simple, but may be a little involved if you don't have luck with disassembling things.


What has happened is that over time, the actual switches have gathered a fine layer of dust. I originally figured it was just carbon scoring like most switches or contacts exhibit who see a voltage, but after seeing what changes the inside of my Copperhead has gone through over these 13 years of use, I think it may be fine plastic dust. EITHER way it is causing the switch to not make solid contact which results in the intermittance, even during that brief moment you've clicked.

[Note: I'll go into detail so that anyone here who doesn't know this stuff can still accomplish the task. This will apply to other mice from different brands, but I only have experience with my Razer, so the initial steps are for similar-era models]
TL;DR for Advanced Users - Pull the covers off the internal switches to expose the copper switch contacts. Take a piece of paper towel (ideal as it doesn't make further dust like toilet papper), and feed it between the contacts. If you're having trouble, use a tiny flathead screwdriver or a sewing needle. Work it around good and when you remove it you should see black residue on the paper towel. Do it again for good measures, then put everything back together how it was! :D Problem solved.

TOOLS NEEDED: Clutter-free work surface. Small Philips + head screwdriver. Small Flat - head screwdriver. Some paper towel. Optional: Flashlight. Magnifying glass or +4 Reading glasses (find them in the Pharmacy area). Superglue. Razor blade
What you have to do is take the mouse apart, which to start is probably a single screw hidden under the teflon pad under the palm-side of the mouse. It's easy enough to remove with your fingernail, or a flathead screwdriver, or a razer blade. (be sure to put the remove pad down sticky-side UP, since we'll be putting it back after)

Once the screw is out, lift on the top half of the case to split it open. If it's anything like my Copperhead, then it'll be held by one or two plastic clips at the front near the cable. This is actually tougher to get apart than a lot of mice, but if you're careful and persistent it'll pop free (maybe twist a tiny bit to help)

After opening, remove the PCB from the bottom half (may be held down with a screw or two). BE CAREFUL as the side buttons and bottom DPI button are kept in only by the switches! You don't want to lose any of them (or not notice they've fallen out and not put them back in the first time).

Inside you'll see a bunch of plastic rectangular boxes with a thin lined-'bump' on the top (black rectangles with a gray bump in mine). These are the mechanical switches that we need to open up and clean.

This is where things really get difficult. The plastic switch housings do come apart, and are held together by the same clip retention style as the mouse body. It's been 6 or 7 years since I had to clean mine last, so I don't know what I used to pry the clip free, but carefully do so while putting some angular pressure against the top-side of the switch so that it can be unclipped. BE CAREFUL, as I'm pretty sure that the little 'bump' I mentioned, is a free-part and may also fall out (again, these specific details here escape me over the years).

Once you've removed the cap, you'll see some bent metal pieces (copper strips) held in place by a plastic frame. That little bump is all the buttons press against, which in turn press against that top piece. When enough pressure is applied, ince it's being pressed in the opposite direction of the bend, it 'clicks' when it reaches a certain point and completes a circuit which is translated by the computer. It's that sudden 'snap' that allows for it to only happen with enough pressure and also only as long as said pressure is applied, versus just bending and touching easily with only the weight of your finger. (They are probably just copper coated spring steel, but they could be solid copper, I don't know and it's not too relevant. I can say that they do weaken, but none have actually broken in mine yet! It is weak enough that my finger resting can induce an unwanted click though.)

Anyways, now is where the paper towel comes in. Tear off a small piece and feed it between where those metal pieces touch together. You'll need to clean out any dust that you see there, but you only really need to worry about that side since that's the part completing the circuit, and is where the dust is preventing the metal from making reliable contact; thus, the double/triple phantom clicks!

After you've cleaned it to the degree you are happy with, or until there is no more black/dark stuff after getting on paper towel pieces, you'll now have to put the switch's cap back over the actual switch. Be sure that the bump is inside the cap, or that you've placed it on top so that it'll be in the correct place! Press the cap down until it's seated fully and the clip appears in place (you may hear it, may not).

If you have more than one mouse button producing multiple-clicks, repeat the process over again on those as well.

Place the PCB back in the bottom half of the mouse, making sure all the buttons are still in their places (particularly the DPI button on the underside which has to be in place before putting the PCB in).

Optional: Grab the top half and look at the underside of the Left and Right mouse buttons. There is a post on each that makes contact with the little 'bump' on the switch. After no doubt hundreds of thousands of clicks, my switch 'bumps' have actually worn a groove into the button's post! This, too, resulted in having multiple-clicks AND mis-clicks. Reason was because that groove became so deep that the 'bump' was unable to be pushed down enough. This is where the Superglue comes in. You'll just need to squeeze enough out of the nozzle to see it, and gently touch it to the post at the groove. You only want enough to fill the groove in with glue, so a whole drop is WAY too much. Give it 10+ minutes to make sure it's completely dry and hardened, if you don't and it is wet underneath, it'll glue your switch and it's going to be a headache to fix! After it's dry make sure it is smooth and level, or level enough, with the rest of the post plastic. If it isn't, too much pressure will be applied directly to the glue and it'll crack off. I've had that happen, and had to re-apply the glue. If there's too much dried glue you can try to use the razor blade to plane down the dried glue. Don't hold the razor blade to "cut" it, but perpendicular to the post so it "shaves" away the glue.

With all of this completed, reassemble the mouse, and you're done! You should now have a fully functional mouse just like it had originally been when new! It should, in turn, provide you many more years of service! :pompous:
The next thing that wore out on mine was the USB cable, at the USB-end. Too many years of being connected to my keyboard, where I would move it on and off my lap (couch gamer here), and it would bend at the plug resulting in stress cracks in the actual wire. (I ghetto-repaired it by bending and taping lol I really should solder in a new one... Yes, I said replace the cable. Fuck you if you think I'm giving up this mouse!!! lmao I have a brand new DeathAdder with frag-harder disco lights that I refuse to use cuz it's uncomfortable!)



Sorry it was so long. I just wanted to be thorough. If any part is too confusing, please let me know (be sure to either quote me or @ mention me so that I for certain get an alert). I'll be happy to try and explain it differently. (y)
 
Formula.350 said:
I come to save your day! (And probably many others') :cool:

I've had my same Razer Copperhead since 2005! I too went through the issue of the multiple phantom clicks, and was unwilling to part with my dear friend.

The fix is simple, but may be a little involved if you don't have luck with disassembling things.


What has happened is that over time, the actual switches have gathered a fine layer of dust. I originally figured it was just carbon scoring like most switches or contacts exhibit who see a voltage, but after seeing what changes the inside of my Copperhead has gone through over these 13 years of use, I think it may be fine plastic dust. EITHER way it is causing the switch to not make solid contact which results in the intermittance, even during that brief moment you've clicked.

[Note: I'll go into detail so that anyone here who doesn't know this stuff can still accomplish the task. This will apply to other mice from different brands, but I only have experience with my Razer, so the initial steps are for similar-era models]
TL;DR for Advanced Users - Pull the covers off the internal switches to expose the copper switch contacts. Take a piece of paper towel (ideal as it doesn't make further dust like toilet papper), and feed it between the contacts. If you're having trouble, use a tiny flathead screwdriver or a sewing needle. Work it around good and when you remove it you should see black residue on the paper towel. Do it again for good measures, then put everything back together how it was! :D Problem solved.

TOOLS NEEDED: Clutter-free work surface. Small Philips + head screwdriver. Small Flat - head screwdriver. Some paper towel. Optional: Flashlight. Magnifying glass or +4 Reading glasses (find them in the Pharmacy area). Superglue. Razor blade
What you have to do is take the mouse apart, which to start is probably a single screw hidden under the teflon pad under the palm-side of the mouse. It's easy enough to remove with your fingernail, or a flathead screwdriver, or a razer blade. (be sure to put the remove pad down sticky-side UP, since we'll be putting it back after)

Once the screw is out, lift on the top half of the case to split it open. If it's anything like my Copperhead, then it'll be held by one or two plastic clips at the front near the cable. This is actually tougher to get apart than a lot of mice, but if you're careful and persistent it'll pop free (maybe twist a tiny bit to help)

After opening, remove the PCB from the bottom half (may be held down with a screw or two). BE CAREFUL as the side buttons and bottom DPI button are kept in only by the switches! You don't want to lose any of them (or not notice they've fallen out and not put them back in the first time).

Inside you'll see a bunch of plastic rectangular boxes with a thin lined-'bump' on the top (black rectangles with a gray bump in mine). These are the mechanical switches that we need to open up and clean.

This is where things really get difficult. The plastic switch housings do come apart, and are held together by the same clip retention style as the mouse body. It's been 6 or 7 years since I had to clean mine last, so I don't know what I used to pry the clip free, but carefully do so while putting some angular pressure against the top-side of the switch so that it can be unclipped. BE CAREFUL, as I'm pretty sure that the little 'bump' I mentioned, is a free-part and may also fall out (again, these specific details here escape me over the years).

Once you've removed the cap, you'll see some bent metal pieces (copper strips) held in place by a plastic frame. That little bump is all the buttons press against, which in turn press against that top piece. When enough pressure is applied, ince it's being pressed in the opposite direction of the bend, it 'clicks' when it reaches a certain point and completes a circuit which is translated by the computer. It's that sudden 'snap' that allows for it to only happen with enough pressure and also only as long as said pressure is applied, versus just bending and touching easily with only the weight of your finger. (They are probably just copper coated spring steel, but they could be solid copper, I don't know and it's not too relevant. I can say that they do weaken, but none have actually broken in mine yet! It is weak enough that my finger resting can induce an unwanted click though.)

Anyways, now is where the paper towel comes in. Tear off a small piece and feed it between where those metal pieces touch together. You'll need to clean out any dust that you see there, but you only really need to worry about that side since that's the part completing the circuit, and is where the dust is preventing the metal from making reliable contact; thus, the double/triple phantom clicks!

After you've cleaned it to the degree you are happy with, or until there is no more black/dark stuff after getting on paper towel pieces, you'll now have to put the switch's cap back over the actual switch. Be sure that the bump is inside the cap, or that you've placed it on top so that it'll be in the correct place! Press the cap down until it's seated fully and the clip appears in place (you may hear it, may not).

If you have more than one mouse button producing multiple-clicks, repeat the process over again on those as well.

Place the PCB back in the bottom half of the mouse, making sure all the buttons are still in their places (particularly the DPI button on the underside which has to be in place before putting the PCB in).

Optional: Grab the top half and look at the underside of the Left and Right mouse buttons. There is a post on each that makes contact with the little 'bump' on the switch. After no doubt hundreds of thousands of clicks, my switch 'bumps' have actually worn a groove into the button's post! This, too, resulted in having multiple-clicks AND mis-clicks. Reason was because that groove became so deep that the 'bump' was unable to be pushed down enough. This is where the Superglue comes in. You'll just need to squeeze enough out of the nozzle to see it, and gently touch it to the post at the groove. You only want enough to fill the groove in with glue, so a whole drop is WAY too much. Give it 10+ minutes to make sure it's completely dry and hardened, if you don't and it is wet underneath, it'll glue your switch and it's going to be a headache to fix! After it's dry make sure it is smooth and level, or level enough, with the rest of the post plastic. If it isn't, too much pressure will be applied directly to the glue and it'll crack off. I've had that happen, and had to re-apply the glue. If there's too much dried glue you can try to use the razor blade to plane down the dried glue. Don't hold the razor blade to "cut" it, but perpendicular to the post so it "shaves" away the glue.

With all of this completed, reassemble the mouse, and you're done! You should now have a fully functional mouse just like it had originally been when new! It should, in turn, provide you many more years of service! :pompous:
The next thing that wore out on mine was the USB cable, at the USB-end. Too many years of being connected to my keyboard, where I would move it on and off my lap (couch gamer here), and it would bend at the plug resulting in stress cracks in the actual wire. (I ghetto-repaired it by bending and taping lol I really should solder in a new one... Yes, I said replace the cable. Fuck you if you think I'm giving up this mouse!!! lmao I have a brand new DeathAdder with frag-harder disco lights that I refuse to use cuz it's uncomfortable!)



Sorry it was so long. I just wanted to be thorough. If any part is too confusing, please let me know (be sure to either quote me or @ mention me so that I for certain get an alert). I'll be happy to try and explain it differently. (y)
Click to expand...
Thanks man! Bookmarked
 
Been happy with SteelSeries mice for a while.
Started on a Sensei (still have it, just had an issue with a corrupted Windows install that made me buy a Rival 310 that I happened to like even better).
 
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