dangerden tdx lapping? help!!

J

Jay Style

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
67
i just got another tdx today for another system i'm doing.

i had some 220 sandpaper lying around and i decided i was just gonna fool around with lapping. i know the ddtdx comes prelapped to 1200+ so i only sanded for a few seconds, the bottom is a bit more shiney but i am wondering because of the lines that are vivible if i hurt the block in anyway...will it perform aswell as an un *messed* with block...what do you think...there are no deep cuts or anything and when i put the back of a knife to the block and move it along it is all still level and the block is smooth to the touch...what do you think...
 
220 is way to rough :eek:

why not just go lap it on the cement outside?


(I'm kidding)
 
If you care about performance, why are you screwing around with the block when you don't know what you are doing? Practice on a random chunk of metal first.
 
hey hey guys I dont mean to sound like a jerk but instead of just telling him what he is doing wrong tell him what he should be doing also, I dont mean to rant in this thread but I see more and more of this on the forums everyday.

Now on with my post, To the original poster. Start out and go to your local hardware store or paint shop. and find a multi pak of sand paper for auto finishing. It should cost around 5-6 bucks and have an assortment of sand paper ranging from 400-2000 grit sand paper... Usually one sheet of each. Next, when you get home find a nice flat surface. I usually use a small mirror or the glass kitchen table.

Now, start by drawing an X with a magic marker across the bottom of your block. Now get your 400 grit sand paper and start sanding in a circualr motion until your X is mostly gone. That is as simple as it gets just keep working "up" through the diffrent grades of sand paper. if you want a really shiny block wet sand it with the higher grit sand papers.

I hope that this helped and as far as the rest of you guys next time try to help the guy out :rolleyes: dont bash on him for doing it the wrong way point out the problem and tell him how to correct it.
 
I agree mostly with the last post. It helps if you take your marker and squiggle lines all over the bottom of the block. This way you can look at it as you sand, and see any high or low spots anywhere on the block.

As far as the sanding process goes, what I do is take a smallish piece of glass (like 4"x6" or so) and tape your sandpaper to the glass nice and tight, then just put it in a sink and run a small trickle of water over it as you sand. Once in a while turn the water on higher for a second to clean the paper.

I've also found that circular sanding is great for when you want to take off more metal faster, while sanding straight up and down for 10 or so passes, then turning the block 90 degrees, take another 10 passes, and so on until you've gone 360 degrees works best for a nice finish.

Granted, i've only lapped 4 or 5 heat sinks, so this is just based on my experience.
 
hmmm I am going to have to try sanding like that see if it makes a diffrence. *Runs off to get some sand paper and a heatsink* --->
 
Enigma said:
hey hey guys I dont mean to sound like a jerk but instead of just telling him what he is doing wrong tell him what he should be doing also, I dont mean to rant in this thread but I see more and more of this on the forums everyday.

Now on with my post, To the original poster. Start out and go to your local hardware store or paint shop. and find a multi pak of sand paper for auto finishing. It should cost around 5-6 bucks and have an assortment of sand paper ranging from 400-2000 grit sand paper... Usually one sheet of each. Next, when you get home find a nice flat surface. I usually use a small mirror or the glass kitchen table.

Now, start by drawing an X with a magic marker across the bottom of your block. Now get your 400 grit sand paper and start sanding in a circualr motion until your X is mostly gone. That is as simple as it gets just keep working "up" through the diffrent grades of sand paper. if you want a really shiny block wet sand it with the higher grit sand papers.

I hope that this helped and as far as the rest of you guys next time try to help the guy out :rolleyes: dont bash on him for doing it the wrong way point out the problem and tell him how to correct it.
Click to expand...

thanks man...i had almost lost faith in the forums.
 
Not a problem. just here to help out. God knows how much help I have gotten out of these forums I think it is time that I start giving it back :cool:
 
Enigma said:
hey hey guys I dont mean to sound like a jerk but instead of just telling him what he is doing wrong tell him what he should be doing also, I dont mean to rant in this thread but I see more and more of this on the forums everyday.

Now on with my post, To the original poster. Start out and go to your local hardware store or paint shop. and find a multi pak of sand paper for auto finishing. It should cost around 5-6 bucks and have an assortment of sand paper ranging from 400-2000 grit sand paper... Usually one sheet of each. Next, when you get home find a nice flat surface. I usually use a small mirror or the glass kitchen table.

Now, start by drawing an X with a magic marker across the bottom of your block. Now get your 400 grit sand paper and start sanding in a circualr motion until your X is mostly gone. That is as simple as it gets just keep working "up" through the diffrent grades of sand paper. if you want a really shiny block wet sand it with the higher grit sand papers.

I hope that this helped and as far as the rest of you guys next time try to help the guy out :rolleyes: dont bash on him for doing it the wrong way point out the problem and tell him how to correct it.
Click to expand...


the problem is that he KNOWS that the block is 1200+ grit... and he KNOWS that he's using 220 grit sand paper.. and he KNOWS that it'll hurt the block...

i don't think he doesn't know how to lap.. but he's just fooling around with the block
 
There's nothing wrong with lapping a 1200+ block with 220 grit, if you want to even it out. When I lap a block, I usually start with 220 myself, no matter what the factory finish is. The reasoning behind the madness on my part is to just get the thing flat first, which can take an aweful long time if you're using 600-800 and it's very uneven, or a big HS (p4 heat sinks come to mind...). Once you have the thing flat, then move up progressivly to your 600, 800, 1000, 1200, etc, for the finish you want.

Not sure how much that applies to the original post, though ;)
 
the problem is that he KNOWS that the block is 1200+ grit
Click to expand...

Yes its a good factory finish but when my brother got his I was not impressed at all by the finish. Its smooth but I could see a lot of scratches in the base. Plus 220 is a good starting point to work from.
 
Jay Style said:
i just got another tdx today for another system i'm doing.

i had some 220 sandpaper lying around and i decided i was just gonna fool around with lapping. i know the ddtdx comes prelapped to 1200+ so i only sanded for a few seconds, the bottom is a bit more shiney but i am wondering because of the lines that are vivible if i hurt the block in anyway...will it perform aswell as an un *messed* with block...what do you think...there are no deep cuts or anything and when i put the back of a knife to the block and move it along it is all still level and the block is smooth to the touch...what do you think...
Click to expand...

here he said the block is level... i think all he wanted is to make the base mirror finish
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top