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Cutting Case

Midnite8

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
230
Hey guys, I don't have a dremel but only a reciprocating saw, will this still be ok in cutting some areas of my case?
 
What, like a sawzall? I suppose it would work if you got a fine blade for it. It might wrangle your case if it's really thin metal though. Also, it might lack the delicacy required for nice straight lines, and detail on corners and stuff.

Something tells me that if you do try it, you'll want to go slow and come at it from an angle, not straight perpendicular. I can see it just grabbing your case and having its way with it...
 
You could, but I certainly wouldn't. Recip. saws are basically designed to tear through whatever it's cutting, even with a proper metal-cutting blade. Getting any kind of precise cut out of one would be very difficult, and the resulting edge would be fairly rough and probably require a fair amount of touch-up with a file or sandpaper.

A rotary cutter (e.g., Dremel) or maybe an oscillating tool are really the best bet. If you're doing fan holes a hole saw works reasonably well.
 
Would you recommend a dremel or a jigsaw? Or a dremel with a saw attachment like this
r20044v15.jpg
 
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You need something that makes small and fine cuts with precision like a dremel or a small hand held jigsaw.

I second this^.
But if you want to use that big boy, please post some before and after pics. :)
 
You want a rotary tool.
This is what I use:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-4000-Series-High-Performance-Rotary-Tool-Kit-4000-6-50/202713349?N=5yc1vZc2fpZgr
Specifically you want the EZ lock Metal cutting blades. They can actually make a straight clean cut in rolled steel with no starting place, but they wear down quickly. Use some wax if you want to try to hang on to them. If you have a Dremel already you'll want the EZ lock mandrel to go with those blades because changing the non EZ lock blades is a pain in the ass.
4c6950ab-d84c-484d-b688-6ad26202fc6c_1000_zps45f34c04.jpg~original

And wear gloves because the sparks will eventually give you a nasty rash.
 
I'll jump on the bandwagon against the recip. saw - I've had one bend 16 gauge mild steel when cutting curves with it. Your case is almost certainly a LOT thinner than that - it'll get mangled.

The problem with nearly all reciprocating-blade-type saws is that they push and pull the material they cut as the teeth "catch" before they cut. Even a jigsaw can bend the edge of a cut or even a whole panel if you aren't careful or the blade is dull (though I know plenty of folks use them for case cutting).

With that in mind, I'll second the recommendation for a rotary tool with a good cutting wheel. And not only should you wear gloves, but be sure to put on safety glasses too - those sparks fly, and they don't feel too good in your eye :)

-Tuthmose
 
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And not only should you wear gloves, but be sure to put on safety glasses too - those sparks fly, and they don't feel too good in your eye :)

-Tuthmose

One other word of warning. These things are often painted with Lead. You do not want to breath in any of that or the debris coming from the blade. It will get in your nose if you don't wear a mask.
 
Use a jigsaw with a fine toothed blade. Nothing beats this. Dremels are too finnicky, thd cut radius is so small its easy to make a single line into a jaggdd msss, with lots of entry Nd exit pointz, and the discs throw out fiberglass soot as they cut.

A solid multispeed jigsaw, at full speed, moving through 2mm aluminum at 1 inch every 15s, or through 1.3mm steel at 1 inch per 20s (aka full speed, very light pressure) will get you an exceptionally straight and smooth cut, no need for filing.
 
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