Cutting a side panel with a CNC mill

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Starholdest

Weaksauce
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Aug 23, 2007
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Hi, I have this case:
soprano-01b.jpg


I know they sell it on newegg with a side window, but when I bought mine, it came with two fully enclosed side panels (no windows).

My dad has a milling machine that he converted to use CNC a year or so ago. I was just wondering, I would like to cut out a window on the side of my case because my airflow over the 2 years i've had it has gotten worse and worse.

The thing is, I asked him if it's possible, and he said yea, but he said that it would scratch up all the paint while it's cutting. I was just wondering, what would I be able to put around my "window area" that I want to cut out, so the paint doesn't get scratched?

Also, what do you guys do exactly? Do you get a piece of lexan and just cut a piece out and put it on the inside? or do you cut out a piece that fits exactly into the window you just made and then glue it in there or something?

What do you say I should do?

Thanks for your help guys,
Elliott
 
i was watching sevreal window cutting tutorials today using jigsaws and stuff. in all of them they put masking/blue painters tape on the side panal so it didnt scratch.
 
Best I could do in Paint up here at work, bear with me.
window.jpg



black sqaure is the hole you cut


dotted line is the plexi glass


ouside box is case side


dots are screws, rivets, whatever



mask it up, start cutting, then peel the tape off real slow... theres is a possiblity of some paint chipping off around edge of the line, or when you peel the tape off some paint may come to.

If you're trying to increase your cooling i'd just cut two fan holes on the side. less risk.
 
f1y said:
Best I could do in Paint up here at work, bear with me.
window.jpg



black sqaure is the hole you cut


dotted line is the plexi glass


ouside box is case side


dots are screws, rivets, whatever



mask it up, start cutting, then peel the tape off real slow... theres is a possiblity of some paint chipping off around edge of the line, or when you peel the tape off some paint may come to.

If you're trying to increase your cooling i'd just cut two fan holes on the side. less risk.
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So, what you're saying is: the lexan goes on the inside of the window?
 
what size mill is it? the X and Y maximum travel should be bigger than your window, or you will have to do it in 2 seperate operations.

and if you are milling, why make a square hole? you could make it a nice shape, and make the plexi the same shape stepped to fit the hole perfectly. no ugly screws or rivets.
 
DeFex said:
what size mill is it? the X and Y maximum travel should be bigger than your window, or you will have to do it in 2 seperate operations.

and if you are milling, why make a square hole? you could make it a nice shape, and make the plexi the same shape stepped to fit the hole perfectly. no ugly screws or rivets.
Click to expand...

It's a decent size. It's no small dremel type thing i'll tell you that. It's about the size of one of these:
67_79520_300.jpg


Except it's newer looking and it's not the same as that one. It has been converted to work with CNC though. I don't think it would be any problem to cut it.
 
just tape it up (with blue painters tape like you've seen) and have it cut on the inside so if anything is scratched around it it's not shown on the outside. Then you can pick up some double sided tape (A lot of people recommend the Scotch brand #4010 by 3M as it sticks really well and if you do ever need to move the plexi for whatever reason you wont destroy the panel attempting to do so) and install the window on the inside.
 
well if its as big as that is probably very accurate as well. make sure you have a nice sharp cutter, and it should make a very nice crisp cut.as long as you protect the panel from getting scratched by whatever you clamp it with, the mill will not scratch it.

the only thing is that the panel is black and the cut will be bare metal.
 
Just so you know the guys at kikboxes put a window in the exact same case as yours, using a jigsaw and a dremel:

Youtube is being funny at work today. So if you do a search for 'monstermawd' it should pull up some of their work/tutorials.
 
why not get a holesaw and cut 2 holes for 120mm fans if your concerned about airflow? imho much easier.
 
aggr1103 said:
Just so you know the guys at kikboxes put a window in the exact same case as yours, using a jigsaw and a dremel:

Youtube is being funny at work today. So if you do a search for 'monstermawd' it should pull up some of their work/tutorials.
Click to expand...
I've seen people using dremels to cut out windows and personally (no offense), I think they look really bad since all the edges come out really uneven and not straight.

troisanh said:
why not get a holesaw and cut 2 holes for 120mm fans if your concerned about airflow? imho much easier.
Click to expand...
Read above

stain. said:
and do some cable management on it.
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I already have :)
 
Starholdest said:
I've seen people using dremels to cut out windows and personally (no offense), I think they look really bad since all the edges come out really uneven and not straight.
Click to expand...

They didn't use the dremel to cut the window. They used the dremel to start and make room for the jigsaw to cut the window. Then they filed the edge to make it clean and covered it with small window molding. Looked really good when it was done.

Youtube link

Also in my experience if you take your time with the dremel your edges can come out even. It takes patience and practice.
 
Truthfully you are going to have a couple issues -

Lubricant is going to stain/alter the finish slightly and there is no way around that. When we machine stuff, we always take into account that refinishing will need to be performed AFTER the machining. I just did my own engine block machining and powdercoated it AFTER. There's no way around it - steel sheets can vibrate/catch and where you clamp it down is going to leave marks.

I vote you strip or bllast the panel, machine it, and then powdercoat it (and the other 3 panels if you wish) gloss black.
 
UrineMachine said:
Truthfully you are going to have a couple issues -

Lubricant is going to stain/alter the finish slightly and there is no way around that. When we machine stuff, we always take into account that refinishing will need to be performed AFTER the machining. I just did my own engine block machining and powdercoated it AFTER. There's no way around it - steel sheets can vibrate/catch and where you clamp it down is going to leave marks.

I vote you strip or bllast the panel, machine it, and then powdercoat it (and the other 3 panels if you wish) gloss black.
Click to expand...

My dad has a lot of tools including a sand blaster right here at home, but I don't have any way to powdercoat my panels.
 
Starholdest said:
My dad has a lot of tools including a sand blaster right here at home, but I don't have any way to powdercoat my panels.
Click to expand...

All it takes is a $99 powder coat gun (from EastWood) and some powder, and an oven that can do 400F for ~30 mins.

Here is my antec case I just did this weekend. Bead blasted, tanked, and powder coated.

case1.jpg
 
Starholdest said:
Oh well. It looks nice but I don't exactly have $99 laying around to buy a powdercoat gun.
Click to expand...

But you've got a CNC mill. Sorry, not trying to flame, just pointing it out. ;)

And yes, I do realize its not technically yours.

And urinemachine, that looks awesome. Brings back memories of the good ol' antec/chenming behmouths of old.
 
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