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Cubed

Silent Assasin

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 1, 2004
Messages
1,120
My case build model is going to be the U2-UFO cube case made by mountain mods. I love the looks and size of this case and it just seems right for any type of computer.
U2UFOO.jpg


First off, this is pretty much my first big job with alumunim so I planned everything out to the closest 1/16 of and inch in AutoCAD 2006. This proccess took about 2.5 weeks between classes and work.

Here is where I'll post all my pictures taken for quick referance, and the best photos will make it here to the thread.

To build the frame, I am going to use 2 different types of angled aluminum both purchased from www.onlinemetals.com. The inside part of the frame will be Aluminum Angle 6061 T6 with 1.5" legs and .125" thick. The rounded edges are a plus so that it reduces chances of sharp corners in the case.

That outside angle will give me a recessed edge for me to easily lay the side panelling. It is Aluminum Angle 6063 T52, is has 1" legs and is also .125" thick. I will use JBWeld to connect them together and then cut them to length(16") using a chopsaw. After they are properly cut with the 45* angle, I will clamp them down to the drill press and drill and and countersink 3 rivets on each side of the angle to hold it together.

Running total:
19' of Aluminum Angle 6061 T6 1.5"x1.5"x.125":...................$26.97 - Onlinemetals.com
19' of Aluminum Angle 6063 T52 1"x1"x.125":.......................$18.68 - Onlinemetals.com
1' of Aluminum Channel 6063 T52 1.5"x1.5"x.125":..............$2.71 - Onlinemetals.com
JB Weld Epoxy..................................................................$3.78 - Menards
24"x48"x.063" Sheet Dimond Plate Aluminum:......................$25.00 - Cutsmetal.com
24"x48"x.063" Flat Sheet Aluminum:....................................$25.00 - Cutsmetal.com
25'x9/16"ID Chemical tubing $.44 per foot..............................$11.00 - McMaster.com
Scocket cap screw 3/8" longx #8/32 thread(100 pack)............$9.64 - McMaster.com
Hex washer slotted screw, 1/4" longx#6/32 thread(100 pack)...$5.18 - McMaster.com
Fan filter assembly for 120mm fan (x2)...................................$4.34 - McMaster.com
Steel fan guard for 80mm fan (x2)..........................................$1.66 - McMaster.com
Old Raidmax ATX case for scrap pieces:................................$35.00 - Bidgdaddy51 in FS/T forum
Shipping, Tax, Other Fees:....................................................$19.43
====================================================
Grand Total:.........................................................................$188.58

Price differance from actual U2-UFO case:..............................$111.41
..............Also, remember the U2 doesn't come with any of the screws, fans, gaurds, tubing, and whatnot.


The total cost to build this case is almost half the price of my model, plus labor. I have a feeling that this could be a bit harder then expected, but it will be a great expierance for me and fun to do.
 
Well, today, I ran over to Menards again looking for something else and decided to check out the matel workings section as well. After comparing some of the sizes of aluminum angle, I've decided to go with 1.5" and 1" bars for the frame. It's almost twice as expensive, but alot more sturdier and it will give me quite a bit more room to work with while putting the whole thing together. This stuff I figured out that it was just cheaper to purchase it in store, so I will head back over to Menards tommarow to make my purchase of the Aluminum angle and begin work on my frame.

I also just placed my order for the sheet aluminum that will be used for the sideing. I ordered one sheet of 24"x48"x.063" Aluminum Dimond Plate, and one sheet of the same specs of flat aluminum sheet 5052. This was ordered from a guy that I found on ebay. After talking with him via email for several days, he gave me a great deal on the 2 sheets at $50 flat for both sheets and shipping. I could not pass up the deal. He has also been a great guy to work with the past couple of days and I would highly like to recomend him for any future aluminum purchases. His store can be found Here

My first actual pictures I will take tommarow when I come home with my new aluminum angle from Menards.
 
Going with the longer angled bars is probably a good idea. You have probably already taken this into account, but it allows for more space to drill your holes for rivets or tap holes for screws (if you are going this route). It will also put less stress on these connection points.

Excellent work so far, it looks very professional. Are you an engineer or engineering major?
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Going with the longer angled bars is probably a good idea. You have probably already taken this into account, but it allows for more space to drill your holes for rivets or tap holes for screws (if you are going this route). It will also put less stress on these connection points.

Excellent work so far, it looks very professional. Are you an engineer or engineering major?

Ya, this was my main concern with going with the larger frame. When I was looking at screw hole placements, it started to seem tight for the screws, too close to the edges for me....

And for your second part all I can say is lol..... I'm actually still a senior in high school, so no engineer expirance as of yet. I am planning on on going to UW Milwaukee to study more on architecture and engineering though.
 
I don't know if they sell this stuff where you are (I live in Tokyo), but I built a couple of frames out of this:

www.lubic.jp/index_lubicn.html

Assembly manual (sorry, it's in Japanese)

www.lubic.jp/archive/howtolubic.pdf

It's basically an anodized aluminum channel system for building framework. They have kits of parts, and tons of acessories for mounting pretty much everything. I don't know if they export though. People have built some whack stuff with it that blows my mind, like this:

http://lubic.jp/com/builder/img/14-1.jpg

More gallery images here:

http://www.lubic.jp/mmvp.html

Good luck with your project, I hope you find some ideas in the above links.
 
There is a custom frame that I know I could of ordered, but building a case is just part of the expierance.... It's something that I'd like to do. The only thing that would be nice is those plastic corners that they have on those cases, that is exactly what I've been looking for except in aluminum, but if I could find those in any material, I think I could do.... I've been trying to plan out how I might be able to make something like that myself.
 
The corners I used on my Lubic frame were chromed steel, not plastic. I haven't seen the plastic ones.
 
Random thoughts:

I bought an electric shear from Harbor Freight when I built my first cube. Slices thru sheet metal like its butter. *BUT* it is VERY difficult and TEDIUS to get perfectly straight cuts in sheet metal, powered shears/table saw/jigsaw/whatever. My suggestion would be to do it right, which in this case would be paying a metal shop [$5-10] to shear the pieces for you.

Very cool idea on using the two pieces of angle for the recessed edge, I might have to 'borrow ' that :D I'd probably reinforce the corners with polycarbonate cut into triangluar supports. Its simple to cut, lightweight, and strong as f***. The aluminum siding should keep the case plenty rigid. US Plastics for cheap plastic.

Sheet metal is ridiculously overpriced. I buy scrap/drop pieces from Frigodesign via Ebay and then cut them to size. Their stainless is awesome and CHEAP. They charge actual UPS shipping, NO handling bullsh**.

McMaster Carr is a great source for drills/taps/dies/etc. I also like their selection of hardware (hint, rivets are butt-fugly, check out their button head screws instead). They ship USPS and charge actual shipping $$.
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Where would you get corners like this?

I got mine here: http://www.lubic.jp/metal.html (top right, 8 for $10) but I live in Tokyo, so they're easy to get. I don't know which US distributor might sell the parts for Lubic in this way, but send them the link, and maybe they can order them. I have also seen corners like this used in cabinetmaking catalogs used to re-inforce wooden boxs. You might try that route.
 
Lubic is over priced for most of there things, here is the company in america that i believe lubic buys their metal from.
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp
The company is called 80/20 inc and you want the 1010 Tslotted series which costs about .21 cents a inch here in america and they sell connectors and what not also they will cut your metal to spec.
 
I am not looking for the frame itself, I've got that under control, I'm in search of the corner pieces to hold it together. When I get home from work, I'll show you a CAD image of what I need. If I can't find any, I'll have to make it outa scrap sheet aluminum which won't look as good....

What I need is a 3-sided angle joint....
 
dogbyte_13 said:
Lubic is over priced for most of there things, here is the company in america that i believe lubic buys their metal from.
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp
The company is called 80/20 inc and you want the 1010 Tslotted series which costs about .21 cents a inch here in america and they sell connectors and what not also they will cut your metal to spec.

This is precisely what I'm looking for, but I can't find any place that sells these peices individually. Here are a couple CAD drawings as to exactly what I need to do with it.

untitled.jpg


1.jpg
 
no problem :), and they are hella cheap just download the catalogs and price list, also i called them and they are very helpful.
 
Wow, the guy from Ebay that I bought my aluminum from is a trusthworthy guy. Just look at what I got just 12 hours after my payment reciept.

P1000219.jpg


When the UPS truch came I was like wtf... Then opened the door and saw the 2'x4' package and almost crapped myself thinking, "It can't be...." Sure enough, I opened it up to see this.

P1000216.jpg


Then right behind it I pulled out the second sheet of Dimond Plate. It came neatly protected by a thin plastic film that I wouldn't be taking off until the build is done, but I did peel off a small corner and it is extremely shiny!!!

P1000215.jpg


Here is the backside of the dimond plate. It wasn't protected, but then again, it didn't realy need to be. Still very shiny.

P1000217.jpg


There was no bad marks or anything in materials either. Great product from a great guy. I still HIGHLY recomend him for any future aluminum purchases.
 
Well, I'm still waiting on my old case and my aluminum angle to arrive I wasn't able to get any work done today. Although I do have the sheet aluminum, I don't want to start cutting until I get the frame done to be sure of the exact size they need to be cut at.

But I do have another quick question for you guys. All of my current drives and whatnot are all black facing to match my current case. I want to keep the aluminum look and polish it up a bit on this case. But trying to not spend more money on this, I would like to keep all my black gear, so I think I'm going to try and attempt to use the black as a trim color. Everything will be polished aluminum except for the drives and I think I might go with some black hex steel hex nuts. I know a guy down at the local hardware store that said they had placed a huge order of about 200 for a company that ended up not needing them. Luckily for me, they are just about the right size, #8/32 and 3/8" long. They also have standard threads. The store normally sells them for 35c a piece but since they have such a large stock at the moment, he will give me as many as I need for 10c a piece. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not I should keep the black screws and use them as accents, or if this will pull away from the shinyness of the rest of the case.

Also, my original plan was to rivet all of the drive bays into place on the aluminum, and then rivet the permenant panels in place. This was so that I didn't have to spend $20 on just screws that the store did not have enough of. But I think that plan will now change since the conditions. I might be making everything removable with these button head screws with no rivets at all.
 
The matte black will be a great contrast to the polished sides and frame. And as this is where most of the "finger" activity takes place, you'll save on the task of cleaning and polishing all the time. Sounds great, do it! :D

PS, there must be a way to order that black hardware online for a lower cost. I'm sure someone will be able to suggest a link for that ????
 
themark said:
PS, there must be a way to order that black hardware online for a lower cost. I'm sure someone will be able to suggest a link for that ????

I looked on McMaster for them and they sell packs of 100 for around $9.50, not much cheaper then buying them in the store, plus I don't have to pay shipping. I'll only need about 50 of these as well. If I end up ordering my new tubing from them as well, I'll probably end up ordering all my screws too. I noticed they also have screws that fit optical and hardrives, 100 for 5 bucks so I'll prolly pick some of them up as well.
 
I think button head screws look great with aluminum........... :D Om my UFO I replaced all the thumb screws with button head screws and I think it came out pretty good.


dsc002591zz.jpg
 
That diamond plate is going to look fly! Check this thread if you want. I built a home made cube a while back. The only thing I would recomend is be sure you want something this big. Otherwise it just takes up a crapload of room. :)
Keep us updated.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=717675
(helps to add the link)
 
Ok, well sorry for the long delay, but I've been busy while I was away, hehe.... Finally all of my parts have arrived and in tip top shape. The thing I needed first happened to come in last. My angled aluminum from www.onlinemetals.com just arrived last night. I orderd some screws, hose, and some fan gaurds from McMaster.com on Monday and they arrived on Wedesday. Ordered 4 days after the metal and shipped 1 day before. But eh, it's some good metal at a very cheap rate.

Here's some work that I did on the case from BigDaddy the other day
P1000220.jpg


P1000221.jpg


P1000221.jpg


P1000222.jpg


P1000223.jpg


And now on to the work that I got done today. Here is a picture that I took after I sanded down, cleaned, and preped the surface of the angled aluminum to be glued together with JBWeld.
P1000227.jpg


Here is a couple of pics that I took after I glued them together. This is the first time that I've used JBWeld, and in my opinion the hardner smells like catpiss..... But anyway, I didn't get that great of a glue job, but hopefully it still works. You don't get much working time when the room is onlye 45*F. I was only able to get 1 8' and the 3' pieces glued together before the hardner started to get too cold to squeeze out. So right now, I'm waiting for my hardner to loosen up a bit inside.

Here's the 8' piece.
P1000229.jpg


And the 3' piece.
P1000230.jpg


I also ran outa clamps too, so hopefully it will be dry enough that I can take them off by tonight so I can glue the last piece and let them sit overnight.
 
So finally I find a free day from work and am able to get some work done. I pretty much wasted my whole weekends work trying to fix the car door on my '95 Jeep Cherokee that pretty much fell off. The weld holding the hinge on broke.... Also with it being halloween weekend and I live in Madison, I'm sure you've heard of last's party downtown on CNN....

But anyways, I've finally got around to making some cuts for the frame. I've got a jig set up to give me exactly 16" cuts on all the angles every time. So far the system has been pretty reliable with straight cuts. I forgot to take pictures of all the angled aluminum glued together before I made the cuts, but it's really not that big so I don't think you'll miss much.

Here is a flat picture of 3 of the sides that I have cut so far.
P1000231.jpg


And here is a shot of the end of a piece to show you the 45* angle for my joints and the resccesed edge.
P1000232.jpg

P1000233.jpg


And here is the cutting device. It's a 10" Craftsman compound miter saw. I don't have a specified metal cutting blade for it, but the blade I am using has quite a few teeth per inch and is labeled as a "All purpose" saw blade.... Eh, I'll probably chew the hell outa it by the time I'm done, but we'll see how it goes.... Cuts like butter with a great edge if I go slow enough. If I got too fast like I did with my first cut, I actually started to melt part of the edge.
P1000234.jpg



I've only been able to make 3 of the sides so far. I'm supposed to meet someone in a little bit to get my car door hinge rewelded. I'll be back and post more pictures whenever I get the rest of the edges cut. Hopefully I should have that done by Thursday or Friday. The quarter ends on Friday for school so I'm kind of in a mess of papers that I haven't done all quarter.
 
Meh, don't worry about the blade. I've cut thicker aluminum than that with a wood blade before without too much wear. Mind you I was in the high school's woodshop at the time....


Great Idea though. I'm all for the money saving ideas. Always glad to see another young guy around here.
 
The blood has been drawn.... After school today I went up to the garage to do some more cutting on the edges and a chunk flew up and cut me in the side of the face.... A pretty good 4 inch cut at that.... But ya, I'm really starting to notice the balde getting more dull as I go. Hopefully it will last me another 2 dozen cuts or so.... It's starting to chew at the metal a bit more then it used to.

I got tired of getting hit in the face by metal flakes and after I got cut it started to burn when I got hit, so I ended up grabbing my paintball mask. Yet another use for that thing. Works great and no more injuries to the face.... I got the enitre 8' piece all cut up today and I haven't started on the other 8' piece but I might get to it later tonight when I finish work.
 
So now I've got enough pieces cut up to at least show you how the general layout. I don't have anything put together yet, but I've got some pics of a general layout of what's going on. I still need to sand down the ends to get rid of all rough edges and there are a couple pieces that are about 1/8" longer then the others. The biggest downside to building the frame is that everything needs to be exactly the same length so that it all fits togethor correctly without one side beyond wierd.

Here is the general shape and size of the cube, it ended up being 15.5" after shaving some of the edges down too far, but it will still work.... I was intending for 16".
P1000236.jpg


That level is 10 inches long.
P1000237.jpg


Here is kind of how the frame will be put togethor.
P1000238.jpg


And here is the inside joint. Remember nothing is glued together yet, so it doesn't fit togethor perfectly.
P1000239.jpg
 
Looking great! I cut angled aluminum for the frame of my external w/c box, but unfortunately I didn't have the equipment to cut them at a 45 degree angle. This would have been much too difficult to do with a dremel and hacksaw...

Props to you for doing a good job. I can't wait to see it done.

Oh, will you be using metal corner covers (I don't know what they are called) on the corners were the edges meet?
 
DarkenReaper57 said:
Looking great! I cut angled aluminum for the frame of my external w/c box, but unfortunately I didn't have the equipment to cut them at a 45 degree angle. This would have been much too difficult to do with a dremel and hacksaw...

Props to you for doing a good job. I can't wait to see it done.

Oh, will you be using metal corner covers (I don't know what they are called) on the corners were the edges meet?

Well, I will be using the tri-corner pieces if I can find them anywhere locally. So far I have not been able to find any. I still need to make a run to Home Depot and hopfeully they have some, but if they don't I'm screwed. I will try to make some out of the sheet aluminum that I bought, I've got plenty more sheet then I actually need, so I'll try to cut some up and hopefully that will work. Not exactly user how I'll get it bent right, but I'll at least try if I can't find the pre molded ones anywhere.
 
HammerSandwich said:
Any progress, SA?

Eh, it's going very slow, but it's goin. I've been way to busy with the hunting season, work and school. But hopefully I should have all the frame corners sanded down and finished by the end of this week. It's taking alot long then expected to get everything sanded down to the exact lenth.... I'll post more pics when I have all the pieces sanded down...
 
[D]ark[A]cid said:
Whats goin on, we want updates!!

It's finally time for some work tongith. My project has been sitting in the garage for the past month or so, just WAY too much crap going on.... Finally, I get a break from school for a little more then a weak. My parents are also going to be gone, so no one complaining what I do with my time. I was planning on finishing my frame tonight and/or tommarow.

Thanks for checking in man, I really hope I haven't lost anyone with the time delay. I just wasn't expecting such BS to come up in the past month....
 
Ok, so as I said, I began my work again tonight. I finished cutting all the edges to exact length and just about 10 minutes ago, I started drilling holes for the corner screws that hold the hold thing together..... And well, with me being myself the idiot..... I broke off my screw tap.... And on my first hole....

DSCN0016.jpg

DSCN0015.jpg


This is going to be a pain in the ass to save. I don't want to drill it out because otherwise my screws won't fit... I have to find a way that I can back it out slowly.

I had a second tap which I drilled a second hole on a nother piece and it works great....
 
Eh, I should also mention that you guys should prepare for a barrage of photos now. Before I was using my dad's digital camera which he didn't like me using, but now my grandparents bought me one for christmas which I'm already using....
 
So which screws do you guys like better to hold the corners together... The silver round ones are what came with the corners and the black oxidised ones are the ones I bought several weeks ago from mcmaster.com. I have a feeling that I'll end up using the silver ones, but the black ones is what's going to be used throughout the rest of the case....

DSCN0024.jpg

DSCN0023.jpg

DSCN0025.jpg



Here is how it looks with 2 peices connected using the silver screws
DSCN0021.jpg


Eh, I'm becoming a picture whore..... I just love this new digi cam.... It's the Nikon 5600. 5.1 megapixles and extremely small with 1.5" screen.
 
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