Critique on my first loop

[rampantandroid]

Hi all,

Being driven to WC by my 5970, so I'm hoping everyone here can help some and give me some input. To begin with, my basic specs: Core i7 920, 5970, eVGA X58, HAF 932 (so all of this will be mounted internally)

What I want: To just drop temps. not doing insane OCing here...I'd like my 5970 to hit 5870 speeds though.

My loop so far:
CPU Block: Apogee XT. Seems to get good ratings
Rad: XSPC RX360. Again, good ratings it seemed like.
Resevoir & Pump: D5/MCP655 & Res combo (constant speed pump...see no need for variable
Tubing: Tygon is a name I recognize; I'm thinking 1/2" ID is good for flow, and 3/4" OD is good for not getting kinks. Is this thinking valid?
Fans: 3x Noctua NF-P12The RX360 is supposed to be optimized for low airflow, so I figured these.

Now, my dilemma:I don't know which 5970 block is better. The EK block is more expensive, but seems more common. The DD block is cheaper, and seems an OK block as well?
DD
EK

Open questions:
What about adding a second 120mm radiator between the CPU and GPU
What type of fittings? Barb and a clamp, or compression?
What tubing size?
Is my pump right? Seems high enough flow & head
How much tubing?
Why do some waterblocks come with nickel plating, is this just to protect from mixing metals/corrosion?
Am I missing anything here? What I list there is all I would buy. I already have AS5 and all...
Do I need to buy any extra mounting hardware?
What order should the water flow? Pump -> cpu -> gpu -> rad -> res

Thanks SO much to everyone, looking forward to this (itching to pull the trigger and spend a weekend setting this up!)

RA

 

[rampantandroid]

Bump...please?

 

[Cruiza]

What about adding a second 120mm radiator between the CPU and GPU?

Wouldn't be a bad idea, IMO, but not completely necessary either.

What type of fittings? Barb and a clamp, or compression?

Fittings are mostly up to you and won't really affect anything besides looks and your wallet.

What tubing size?

1/2" is generally recommended due to theoretically higher flow over smaller diameters.

Is my pump right? Seems high enough flow & head
How much tubing?

The XT block is very, very restrictive, but I think you'll be fine. I think most people recommend buying about 10' for your first purchase. It's much better to be safe than having to wait another few days, IMO.

Why do some waterblocks come with nickel plating, is this just to protect from mixing metals/corrosion?

Yes, and looks.

Am I missing anything here? What I list there is all I would buy. I already have AS5 and all...

Looks fine. Just make sure you buy clamps if you need them, and any specialty fittings (angles and such). I would recommend getting Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans instead of those Noctuas - the GTs are highly effective and extremely quiet.

Do I need to buy any extra mounting hardware?

As long as the rad is retail/new, I believe it will come with the standard mounting hardware.

What order should the water flow? Pump -> cpu -> gpu -> rad -> res

The standard loop order is pump > rad > cpu > gpu > res.

 

[Balthazor]

I have a Noctua NF-P12, but I think the newer Gelid Wing PL 12 fans are better, and are rated for higher static pressure. The Gelid fans are 4-pin PWM fans, though, so that might require a harness to use with your radiator.

Another alternative would be the Scythe Gentle Typhoons - 1850 RPM version, which are 3-pin fans. Those definitely sound quieter than the Notcua fans at full speed - they use a weird shape fan blade to change the tone of the fan's sound, and it really does make it less perceptible.

I'm using the Koolance VID-597 v2, and it is much improved from the rightly-maligned v1 of the block. Just another option; I went with the Koolance blocks because I liked the spacing of the inlet/outlet holes.

You may want to consider using some Koolance quick disconnects, they are really helpful in key parts of your build to make it easier to modify components or whatever. I added some to my reservior/pump combo (Koolance RP-1000), and a set at the bottom of my loop, which I can disconnect and use as a drain.

You could also consider adding in a water temp sensor in case you want to use that as a metric for controlling fan speed. That sensor and block there can be adjusted to be in-line or you can change it around to make it a 90 degree turn.

To be able to control my pump and fans I ended up adding a TMS-200.

 

[vjcsmoke]

It's pretty easy to mount a 360 rad to a HAF932 because it has predrilled holes at the top to accept that type of radiator. Just remove the 230mm fan first. As for adding another 120mm rad internally, sure why not? More cooling is always better with a water loop.

I have a question for above poster though - where is the ideal spot to put quick disconnects into a loop? I'd like the convenience of easier drainage without having to risk spills. And how many pieces do you need to purchase?

 

[Balthazor]

I have a question for above poster though - where is the ideal spot to put quick disconnects into a loop? I'd like the convenience of easier drainage without having to risk spills. And how many pieces do you need to purchase?

For draining, you'll want to place QDCs somewhere towards the bottom of the loop, so gravity assists in the draining process.

What I did was put one set (male / female) connected to a radiator at the bottom of my loop. I then have a spare female connected to a length of tubing, and a spare male connected to a length of tubing; to drain, I just disconnect the first pair, and can then attach one of the 'spares' and let the fluid drain out to a container.

Got the idea from someone on the Koolance forums, but it is handy. Plus the set of QDCs you use for draining can double to help in modifying your loop or replacing components, depending on the placement.

To do this you'd need two male QDCs and two female. Unfortunately they aren't cheap, but the VL3N QDCs really work well.

 

[rampantandroid]

Wouldn't be a bad idea, IMO, but not completely necessary either.

Would it help much? It isn't just as simple as adding a few dollars of cost, so if it's worthwhile, I have no problem doing it....if not, then I'd prefer to skip it.

1/2" is generally recommended due to theoretically higher flow over smaller diameters.

What about outer diameter? How does that weigh in - would a larger OD help prevent kinks?

The XT block is very, very restrictive, but I think you'll be fine. I think most people recommend buying about 10' for your first purchase. It's much better to be safe than having to wait another few days, IMO.

Would the EK Supreme do better then? I read the EK block has poor mounting hardware...what else is a good option? Like I said before, I'm not doing an insane OC, so a degree or two difference won't kill me.

Thanks again!

 

[Balthazor]

Kinks can be managed by good tubing routing, anti-kink coils, and fitting choices.

The thicker the tubing, the less likely it will kink when doing bends over short distances, but it can also be harder to work with in tight spaces and may require heating/cooling to shape to fit.

Pick your poison, you can make either work.

 

[Balthazor]

The Koolance CPU-360 block is excellent.

Adding radiators will reduce temps, but only you can now how much you need additional cooling. It completely depends on how hot your components are and how much of that heat you want to get rid of.

I'd start with the 3 x 120mm rad you have and start with that, for one 5970 and the CPU you should be ok. But if you want to go all out, go for it.

 

[EricFX1984]

consider the Enzotech Sapphire CPU block... much cheaper, yet almost identical performance

 

[rampantandroid]

About to finally order: one final question: any thoughts on that bay resevoir/pump combo? Will that be hard to fill? Am I better getting them separate, and dealing with the mounting?

 

[rampantandroid]

Oh, also - will I need anything for anti-corrosion? I don't THINK I have any aluminum in the parts I've listed.