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cpu temps with water cooling too high

V

VikingAnt

n00b
Joined
Mar 9, 2005
Messages
4
I recently switched from air cooling to a Swiftech setup on my system incorporating both cpu (mcw6000) and gpu (mcw50) blocks, a reservoir, a dual 80mm radiator, and their new pump (mcp350). After I fired up my system I was pleased that the temps on my 6800GT dropped noticeably. However, when I checked my cpu temps I was very disappointed. Idle temps of my AMD FX-55 (air cooled) used to be around 40C, and around 55C under load. However, my cpu temps after setting up water cooling were around 50C at idle and would jump as high as 68C under load. I am using an Epox 9NDA3J (socket 939) motherboard.

I removed the cpu block, cleaned it and re-applied Artic Silver (using the protocol recommended by Arctic Silver) with no change in temps. The cpu block is very snug against the cpu so I'm pretty sure contact is good. I've read posts about mb temp sensors being incorrect, but the temps seems to fine with an air cooled setup. Is it possible since there's no air flow around the cpu (i.e. no heatsink and fan) that the temp readings are being thrown off? One other thing, the cpu block is only mildly warm under load....is that normal as well? Lastly, I am not overclocking the cpu. My question is, any ideas what's going on?

Any thoughts or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
 
Don't hear about peoples temps going up when switching to wc'ing too often. Your temp sensor could be affected by not having any airflow around it but I kinda doubt it. It sounds to me like your just not getting good contact between your block and the cpu but it also sounds like you've taken the appropriate steps to insure that it is. I would check to make sure that you have good flow through your block for starters. How do you have your tubing routed? Are the 2 blocks in series or parallel? The rad your using isn't the greatest but should be sufficient. A 120mm rad would be better and dual 120mm would be great.

That's all I can come up with right now. Hope I helped a bit. Good luck.
 
you should try and get a hardware temperature sensor, they work a lot better than motherboard sensors..... and also, make sure that your using the proper coolant, and that the water is first going to your CPU, before it goes to the video card...

good luck with it..
 
just like sparky said, make sure it hits your cpu first, or, you can do it the way im going to set it up if you haven't already:just make it so you get the water cooled by your radiator after your gpu before it goes to your cpu, not cpu right after gpu or gpu right after cpu.
 
mattk said:
just like sparky said, make sure it hits your cpu first, or, you can do it the way im going to set it up if you haven't already:just make it so you get the water cooled by your radiator after your gpu before it goes to your cpu, not cpu right after gpu or gpu right after cpu.
Click to expand...

Why cant people get it through their heads that it doesn't matter worth a damn if the water goes to the CPU or the GPU first. For like the hundreth time...THE WATER DOESN'T HEAT UP ENOUGH TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE WHERE THINGS GO IN THE LOOP.

Ok sorry about that. I like what sideroxlyon said. It is a really weird problem, if the block is making good contact the temps shouldn't be that high cause the mcp6000 works well in low flow configurations. Seems to me like one of the most likely causes is that the blocks may be set up in parallel causing the cpu to get very poor flow. Either that or the block needs to be reseated/too much thermal paste was used or something like that.
 
Erasmus354 said:
Why cant people get it through their heads that it doesn't matter worth a damn if the water goes to the CPU or the GPU first. For like the hundreth time...THE WATER DOESN'T HEAT UP ENOUGH TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE WHERE THINGS GO IN THE LOOP.
Click to expand...

I was going to say something to that effect also but just didn't have the energy to say it again. :rolleyes:
 
Erasmus354 said:
Why cant people get it through their heads that it doesn't matter worth a damn if the water goes to the CPU or the GPU first. For like the hundreth time...THE WATER DOESN'T HEAT UP ENOUGH TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE WHERE THINGS GO IN THE LOOP.

Ok sorry about that. I like what sideroxlyon said. It is a really weird problem, if the block is making good contact the temps shouldn't be that high cause the mcp6000 works well in low flow configurations. Seems to me like one of the most likely causes is that the blocks may be set up in parallel causing the cpu to get very poor flow. Either that or the block needs to be reseated/too much thermal paste was used or something like that.
Click to expand...


dude, if it helps, have the EXACT SAME WATERCOOLING SYSTEM AS HE HAS!!! EXCEPT FOR THE RADIATOR......

neways..... if this hasn't helped, then check to make sure that your mobo temperature sensor is right... and second of all... buy a hardware temperature probe, they work a lot... A LOT!! better than the mobo sensor does...... umm... thinking..... are you sure you have the screws down tight?

try putting a dab of thermal paste on the CPU, spreading it, and put the HS on, and screw it down all the way... then take the block off, and check to see that the thermal paste is leaving a mark on the bottom of the heatsink, just to make sure that it's making adequate contact with the CPU, and if it's not add just a teeny tiny blob of thermal paste on it..... or, you can clean it all off, add a blob on the Heatsink, and squish it down onto the CPU and do it that way... but i applied it to my CPU first (p4 s474 2.4 NW) then put the CPU block on it and checked for a mark on the bottom, and idle temps are 34C....
 
Maybe the dual 80mm rad isnt enough to keep the fx55 cool. Generally the 80mm rads arent as strong as a 120 rad.
 
I tried reseating the cpu a bunch of times, using Arctic Silver. Each time I removed it the Arctic Silver was spread out nice and evenly (not thick either). The crazy thing is that the gpu stays nice and cool where as the cpu is so so at idle but goes way crazy under load. I'm thinking of moving the rads out of the case and also installing a 120mm rad in-line. I'm assuming my pump (mcp350) can deal with the additional rad and length of tubing.
 
The 350 can definitely handle a bit more restriction...gotta love those high head pumps. A double 80mm rad has about the same surface area as a single 120mm rad ( a little less ) but it should still be enough to handle the load of a cpu and gpu adequately well...nothing spectacular though.

Only thing I can think about is maybe something is wrong with your waterblock...or maybe that radiator just isn't up to the task. You might need some more powerful fans on it to get decent air flow. I know the 80mm rads tend to be pretty thick, which require powerful fans to get decent airflow through them.
 
CypHill said:
Might have air pockets in your cpu block - that'll heat things up nicely..
Click to expand...

How can I tell? More importantly, how can I prevent them?

Perhaps I should get a cpu block from Danger Den with an acrylic top.
 
VikingAnt said:
How can I tell? More importantly, how can I prevent them?

Perhaps I should get a cpu block from Danger Den with an acrylic top.
Click to expand...

Yes an acrylic top would make spotting the pockets easier -

I would run the whole system (not connected to you computer) for a few days to make sure all air bubbles are gone first.
 
CypHill said:
Might have air pockets in your cpu block - that'll heat things up nicely..
Click to expand...

Nice catch, forgot about that. When you bleed your system, make sure everything is securely fastened first of all (I mean everything). Then what you can do to make sure you get all the air pockets out is to twist the case around, left, right, forwards, backwards, upside down. Just everywhich way. It doesn't have to be fast, you just want to twist it everywhich way to make sure you dont have an air pocket hiding in the block, which would be more than likely if your block is the highest place in your system.
 
make sure that you let the system run for a couple of minutes, and flip it on its side, then back to where it was... but make sure you got res top on tight ;) i did that, and it spilt over my emptee case.. all well :p it didnt hurt nething
 
Also in the swiftech wcin kits directions, they say to make sure the CPU water block is flat when ur bleeding the ssytem, casue thats the only way to get the air that can be tracked in teh block. Hope you can get it working.
 
Thanks for the tips folks, I really appreciate it. I'm thinking of moving the dual 80mm rad outside the case and installing a single 120mmm rad in-line with it. I hope my swiftech mcp350 pump can handle all that (92GPH/350LPH, max pressure of 22 PSI, and nominal head of 13 ft).

Finally, I may get a cpu water block with an acrylic top (i.e. Danger Den) so I can spot any air bubbles.

Any final thoughts or recommendations before I spend more money?
 
VikingAnt said:
Thanks for the tips folks, I really appreciate it. I'm thinking of moving the dual 80mm rad outside the case and installing a single 120mmm rad in-line with it. I hope my swiftech mcp350 pump can handle all that (92GPH/350LPH, max pressure of 22 PSI, and nominal head of 13 ft).

Finally, I may get a cpu water block with an acrylic top (i.e. Danger Den) so I can spot any air bubbles.

Any final thoughts or recommendations before I spend more money?
Click to expand...

Before you jump on getting the Danger Den, a good way to see if there is an air bubble anywhere (in the pump, the CPU block, or the GPU block), just put your ear next to it and see if you hear any turbulence. It should be dead silent, but if there's an air pocket, there will be some turbulence noise. Also, tipping it around will help.

It seems that getting a clear block and a 120mm radiator is spending unecessary money. Your setup should definately be superior to your previous air cooling setup.

One thing though, is the FX-55's temperature sensor on Die? or is it a diode underneath the CPU?
 
A dual 80mm radiator is not enough to cool an FX55 at full load, unless you have four tornados on it. Get a real radiator, or better yet, a heatercore, and try again. Though it wouldn't heat up *that* much. Bad contact is my guess.
 
mwarps said:
A dual 80mm radiator is not enough to cool an FX55 at full load, unless you have four tornados on it. Get a real radiator, or better yet, a heatercore, and try again. Though it wouldn't heat up *that* much. Bad contact is my guess.
Click to expand...

Really? Hmm.... I'm suprised. I heard that it was. I've never personally had experience with an FX55 though.
 
Have you checked to make sure your cpu block is plumbed correctly? The water should be entering the center barb and exiting the outer barb. If the hoses are hook up improperly, aka reversed, this will cause the temps you are getting.
 
mwarps said:
A dual 80mm radiator is not enough to cool an FX55 at full load, unless you have four tornados on it. Get a real radiator, or better yet, a heatercore, and try again. Though it wouldn't heat up *that* much. Bad contact is my guess.
Click to expand...

A dual 80mm radiator is a lot better than you think. It wont be giving great temps by any means, but it is about the same performance wise as a single 120mm radiator, which is plenty sufficient for cooling any stock processor/gpu at a decent temperature.
 
Erasmus354 said:
A dual 80mm radiator is a lot better than you think. It wont be giving great temps by any means, but it is about the same performance wise as a single 120mm radiator, which is plenty sufficient for cooling any stock processor/gpu at a decent temperature.
Click to expand...

he's right you know.... he has more heat transfering over a greater surface area than a single 120mm rad... like i got... but still, a fx 55 should never get that hot while watercooling, so run it for a while in cool and quiet mode, and see what kinda temps you get on that..
 
DaLurker said:
Really? Hmm.... I'm suprised. I heard that it was. I've never personally had experience with an FX55 though.
Click to expand...

It'll work, but it'll suck. But it shouldn't suck that badly. That's just plain hot. Unless the fans being used are like panaflo L's... They won't move any air through something so thick. Tornados will work, but he'd go deaf.

I've seen temps that high with a dual 120 fan setup (BI2). The fans were off, and it took four hours to get that hot.
 
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