Core i7 Build

[oliveash]

I haven't built a new pc in about 8 years. Less than stellar income and a quickly budding family have left the enthusiast in me on the back burner. Long story short, a portion of this year's income is for my new desktop.

As this may very well be my only significant PC investment for a few years, I wanted to push the envelope as much as possible. I have what I believe to be a solid build, which I'll detail below, but as it's been so long for me I wanted some more "in-tune" eyes raking it over the coals.

I am not set firm in any of the components I list. Or brands. If you see an area that can be better served by going a different direction, convince me please!


1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc

Primary use is gaming. Secondary use is office applications/websurfing. Tertiary use is media editing and playback (sound, pictures, video).

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?

$2,000 including tax and shipping.

3) Where do you live?

Bowling Green, Ohio. Zip code is 43402.

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. Please be very specific.

Everything except the keyboard and mouse.

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.

I'll be reusing my USB keyboard and mouse. Other than that, I need all new.

6) Will you be overclocking?

Not right off the bat, but definitely a possibility.

7) What size monitor do you have or plan to have?

Looking at a 24" 1920x1200.

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?

When the refund arrives, which should be the week of February 16.

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? etc.

If I decide to keep my current hard drives (IDE), I'll need PATA.

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license?

Yes. Though I'm not opposed to more.


My Current Build Proposal

Case - Cooler Master HAF 932 - 149.99
PSU - PC Power & Cooling S75CF 750W - 109.99
Mobo - Asus P6T Deluxe - 299.99
CPU - Intel Core i7 920 - 294.99
RAM - OCZ Gold 6GB DDR3 1600 (3x2GB) - 169.99
HDD - 2x WD6401AALS - 159.98 (79.99 ea)
CD/DVD - LG Black 22x DVDR/RW - 21.99
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 295 - $504.99
Display - Sceptre X24WG - 269.99

SUBTOTAL - 1990.90
SHIPPING - 54.70

TOTAL - 2045.60 (yeah, I failed on my own budget)

 

[tiraides]

The easiest way to stay below your $2000 budget is to swap out the GTX 295 for the GTX 280. However, you'll notice a performance hit if you try to play some of the today's games with all of the bells and whistles.

There is a deal going on where you could get the WD6400AAKS hard drive for $60. I recommend you go with that, as you won't notice a significant performance drop compared to using the WD6401AALS.

Go with the G.Skill DDR3 1600 kit. Its more generous voltage would aid you in overclocking (though, for best results, you would need a third-party CPU cooler as well).

Do you have a 64-bit version of Windows on hand for this build? 32-bit versions of Windows have a 4GB system memory limit, which would subtract the amount of "usable" RAM you have by the amount of memory taken up by other system components, including (but is not limited to) the video card.

 

[lt_shiro]

Cost cutting

- You are dead set on this case or you are open too suggestions.

- GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD4P is $260 with SLI and full 6 ram dimms and GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD3R is $199 with only crossfire and only 4 dimms.

- G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7T-6GBPK - Retail $140

- ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail $250

Saving $90 to 130

I would suggest getting a good air cooler, such as a Xigmatek Rifle or Coolermaster V8.

 

[oliveash]

The easiest way to stay below your $2000 budget is to swap out the GTX 295 for the GTX 280. However, you'll notice a performance hit if you try to play some of the today's games with all of the bells and whistles.

I went with the 295 because I don't know when I'll be able to upgrade the machine and wanted to extend its ability to hold its own as long as possible. If I were confident in annual upgrades I'd pick a 280/285.

There is a deal going on where you could get the WD6400AAKS hard drive for $60. I recommend you go with that, as you won't notice a significant performance drop compared to using the WD6401AALS.

I'd heard through posts here and reviews elsewhere that the AALS had a hefty performance increase over the AAKS. Is that not true?

Go with the G.Skill DDR3 1600 kit. Its more generous voltage would aid you in overclocking (though, for best results, you would need a third-party CPU cooler as well).

Switched the RAM. I want a third party cooller (leaning toward TRUE) but was going to buy that later when I was seriously looking into overclocking.

Do you have a 64-bit version of Windows on hand for this build? 32-bit versions of Windows have a 4GB system memory limit, which would subtract the amount of "usable" RAM you have by the amount of memory taken up by other system components, including (but is not limited to) the video card.

I'm aware of the x32/x64 differences and have a legit copy of Vista x64.

Cost cutting

- You are dead set on this case or you are open too suggestions.

Very much open to suggestions. I heavily favor full towers.

- GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD4P is $260 with SLI and full 6 ram dimms and GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD3R is $199 with only crossfire and only 4 dimms.

From the reviews I've read (both "professional" and end-user), the Asus seemed a more reliable and better product - which is worth the extra cost to me.

- G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7T-6GBPK - Retail $140

I wanted to go with 1600 now to facilitate overclocking later. Am I wrong there or is that 1333 going to scale well if I push the CPU?

- ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail $250

Here's a question. I picked the Sceptre because it claimed a 2ms response time. Is 5ms detrimental to fast-pased gameplay?

Saving $90 to 130

I would suggest getting a good air cooler, such as a Xigmatek Rifle or Coolermaster V8.

I definitely want an air cooler, but was looking to hold off on it until I was serious about starting to overclock.

 

[lt_shiro]

Here's a question. I picked the Sceptre because it claimed a 2ms response time. Is 5ms detrimental to fast-pased gameplay?

I got 3 friends with this screen and it looks great and its 16:9, perfect for watching TV and other video.

I definitely want an air cooler, but was looking to hold off on it until I was serious about starting to overclock.

Less stress on you, taking out your motherboard after you have done cable management is a pain.

Asus seemed a more reliable and better product

Gigabyte is a great brand, I would buy the Biostar board before I buy an ASUS board. Cause their is not advantage in the cost premium in their products.

 

[oliveash]

I got 3 friends with this screen and it looks great and its 16:9, perfect for watching TV and other video.

For PC use I'd really prefer a 16:10. I've seen the 16:9's in-store and they seem somehow "off" to me. Probably a personal preference though.

Less stress on you, taking out your motherboard after you have done cable management is a pain.

That's a good point. Though, to be honest I somewhat enjoy the pain.

Gigabyte is a great brand, I would buy the Biostar board before I buy an ASUS board. Cause their is not advantage in the cost premium in their products.

I'll have a look at their offerings.

Any other tips or pointers? I really appreciate the feedback!

 

[engiNURD]

Gigabyte and Asus are both top tier companies producing similar products. IMO, one is not much better than the other, and I've used both brands for X58 builds -- get whichever one has the features you need at the lowest cost.

No, there isn't a hefty performance increase going from the Caviar Blue to the Caviar Black... around 5MB/s -- negligible.

CPU HSF... I agree, its a pain to remove stuff after you've done all your cable management to install a new HSF. I'd suggest getting it now unless your case provides you with access to the rear of the mobo without having to pull the mobo out (so you can install the backplate of the CPU HSF while its installed).

Case... This is the easiest place to save money since it does not affect performance of the system. However, if you really want to save money here, you'd probably have to drop the full tower requirement.

 

[PC_User]

CPU HSF... I agree, its a pain to remove stuff after you've done all your cable management to install a new HSF. I'd suggest getting it now unless your case provides you with access to the rear of the mobo without having to pull the mobo out (so you can install the backplate of the CPU HSF while its installed).

I agree. You want want to go back and have to remove the entire motherboard, cpu, cables, etc to put in a new heatsink. I'd strongly recommend the TRUE 1366.

 

[oliveash]

Gigabyte and Asus are both top tier companies producing similar products. IMO, one is not much better than the other, and I've used both brands for X58 builds -- get whichever one has the features you need at the lowest cost.

Out of curiosity, which x58 board did you prefer and why?

No, there isn't a hefty performance increase going from the Caviar Blue to the Caviar Black... around 5MB/s -- negligible.

Wouldn't the doubled cache have a benefit beyond raw read/write speed?

CPU HSF... I agree, its a pain to remove stuff after you've done all your cable management to install a new HSF. I'd suggest getting it now unless your case provides you with access to the rear of the mobo without having to pull the mobo out (so you can install the backplate of the CPU HSF while its installed).

It probably would be best to get it from the start, though the extra $50-ish (or more) hurts.

Case... This is the easiest place to save money since it does not affect performance of the system. However, if you really want to save money here, you'd probably have to drop the full tower requirement.

I prefer full towers because of the roominess. I also like knowing that, to a degree, whatever I upgrade to in the future is more than likely going to fit without any problems. I've read a lot of mid-tower reviews with complaints about cramped conditions, especially between the video cards and hard drives.

And while you're right that a good case won't improve performance; a bad case will certainly degrade it.

I agree. You want want to go back and have to remove the entire motherboard, cpu, cables, etc to put in a new heatsink. I'd strongly recommend the TRUE 1366.

Know where I can find one? Newegg doesn't seem to carry Thermalright. And the last time I checked they were out of stock just about everywhere (for the 1366 anyway). And is there any significant difference between the standard and Black versions?

 

[lt_shiro]

COOLER MASTER RC-690-KKN1-GP Black SECC/ ABS ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail ~ $70 is nice roomy case.

 

[PC_User]

Out of curiosity, which x58 board did you prefer and why?

Know where I can find one? Newegg doesn't seem to carry Thermalright. And the last time I checked they were out of stock just about everywhere (for the 1366 anyway). And is there any significant difference between the standard and Black versions?

Ask and you shall receive.

 

[engiNURD]

Out of curiosity, which x58 board did you prefer and why?

None of the i7 builds were for me, so I didn't pick any in particular -- I suggested whichever one fit the client's needs. All of the X58 boards are high level enthusiasts boards, so you can't really go wrong. Many people like the BIOS setup of the eVGA, but I, personally, like the Gigabytes. Asus' are nice, too, especially if you get ExpressGate working (and you like such a feature). One of my buddies wanted Tri-SLI, so he had to pick a board who's layout matched his plans for 3x dual slot cards and a soundcard. As I said, pick whichever one fits your needs.

Wouldn't the doubled cache have a benefit beyond raw read/write speed?

Nope, not at these volumes (640GB). Its ever so slight of a difference, but more evident in the 1TB drives... still negligible, though. Maybe later, when we're into the 2TB or 4TB level, the extra cache will improve performance more noticeably.

I prefer full towers because of the roominess. I also like knowing that, to a degree, whatever I upgrade to in the future is more than likely going to fit without any problems. I've read a lot of mid-tower reviews with complaints about cramped conditions, especially between the video cards and hard drives.

And while you're right that a good case won't improve performance; a bad case will certainly degrade it.

Most of us don't recommend bad cases, and I doubt vidcards will get much bigger. So, even dropping down to the CM RC-690 that lt_shiro mentioned would not only save you money, but also provide you with a lot of room inside the case.

Know where I can find one? Newegg doesn't seem to carry Thermalright. And the last time I checked they were out of stock just about everywhere (for the 1366 anyway). And is there any significant difference between the standard and Black versions?

http://jab-tech.com/Thermalright-Ultra-120-eXtreme-1366-RT-pr-4332.html

The Noctua & CM V8 are good alternatives.
http://jab-tech.com/Noctua-NH-U12P-SE1366-pr-4331.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103055

 

[oliveash]

None of the i7 builds were for me, so I didn't pick any in particular -- I suggested whichever one fit the client's needs. All of the X58 boards are high level enthusiasts boards, so you can't really go wrong. Many people like the BIOS setup of the eVGA, but I, personally, like the Gigabytes. Asus' are nice, too, especially if you get ExpressGate working (and you like such a feature). One of my buddies wanted Tri-SLI, so he had to pick a board who's layout matched his plans for 3x dual slot cards and a soundcard. As I said, pick whichever one fits your needs.

Problem is I don't have any current plans for SLi, and who knows what the upgrade path for this machine ends up being. It's hard to plan ahead with slot layout when you don't know if/when the slots will be filled. Or how.

Nope, not at these volumes (640GB). Its ever so slight of a difference, but more evident in the 1TB drives... still negligible, though. Maybe later, when we're into the 2TB or 4TB level, the extra cache will improve performance more noticeably.

Sweet. I'll swap out for the AAKS then.

Most of us don't recommend bad cases, and I doubt vidcards will get much bigger. So, even dropping down to the CM RC-690 that lt_shiro mentioned would not only save you money, but also provide you with a lot of room inside the case.

I didn't mean to infer anyone here would recommend me a bad case. A lot of it has to do with taste since it represents the exterior of your rig. For me, I hate LED's, side windows, and anything more flashy than a plain metal exterior. However, I want good airflow and plenty of room, so had to settle for the HAF since the kind of case I prefer is somehow more expensive than the flashy ones (i.e. Silverstone/Lian Li).

http://jab-tech.com/Thermalright-Ultra-120-eXtreme-1366-RT-pr-4332.html

The Noctua & CM V8 are good alternatives.
http://jab-tech.com/Noctua-NH-U12P-SE1366-pr-4331.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103055

Is there a review anywhere that discusses the various 1366 heatsinks and their comparative performance?

 

[notalent420]

If you go with the GTX 280/285 you can always use the step-up program if you feel they are too slow for your use.

Besides, unless you want to play Crysis nearly maxed out, the 280/285 are just fine for 19x12.

 

[oliveash]

If you go with the GTX 280/285 you can always use the step-up program if you feel they are too slow for your use.

Besides, unless you want to play Crysis nearly maxed out, the 280/285 are just fine for 19x12.

Well, I do want to play Crysis maxed out. However, I didn't come up with this build for that purpose. I was thinking more along the lines of what's coming out this year, and hopefully some of next year.

 

[tiraides]

The GTX 280 would be fine for your needs. When I made my earlier comment about performance hits, Crysis was the game that I had in mind.

For reviews on CPU coolers, check out FrostyTech.

Here's another case in the design of the Cooler Master Centurion 690: its sibling, the 590. For additional case fans, pick up some Yate Loons from Jab-Tech.