Cooling Advice - Budget: $220

D

Dark_Legacy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
251
Currently Installed

CPU: Intel E6600
Clock Rate: 3.0GHz
Voltage: 1.288V
Model: Revision B2, Stepping 6
FSB: 1334 MHz
Bus: 333 MHz
CPU currently underclocked to 30C because of dust that clogged up CPU cooler. Unstable @ 3.2GHz with dust.

Cooler: Cooler Master UFO Cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103001

Thermal Paste: Arctic Silver 5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007

Case Fans:
3x Antec TriCool 120mm

Back: Intake, [BROKEN].
Top: Exhaust [Functional]
Front: Intake (Pointed towards GPU with dust grill) [Functional]

Case: Antec P180
Motherboard: eVGA680i

Changes

Budget: $220

* New 3x 120mm Fans
* New CPU Cooler

Cooler: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134
Fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2000110573+1372726538&name=120mm
Supreme Fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...2000110573+1372726538+1373026503&name=>80+CFM (Apparently, these are very noisy. People are comparing the sound to a Harrier taking off. I sleep in the same room as the machine.)

Addendum

You guys have given me absolutely solid advice for years, and now one of my fans has died; and after a recent system upgrade I want to overclock my CPU further.

What do you guys recommend in terms of CPU Coolers and 120mm fans?

(Remember, the size of the P180.)

Thanks in advance.
 
Aerocool's 90CFM fans aren't too bad non-filtered, it's when you throw the filters on that they start to become noisy. I've got 3 in my case (along with 2x other 120mm, 1x 70mm, and 1x pci), and the entire system is pretty loud because of them. Not in a bad way - it's like a low droning noise which just lulls me to sleep should I ever leave the PC on overnight.

You might want to try to get some fans that have built in controllers on them however - that is you don't want to take a chance on noise levels being too high because it's purely subjective on that part.

And if you are looking to overclock as much as possible on air - TRUE 120 as the heatsink.
 
Could go water for that.

Swiftech MCR220 QuietPower 2x120 radiator = $45
(can be top-mounted internally in the P180)

AC Ryan HEXX Black 2x120 RadGrill = $22


2 Yate Loon mid speed fans - $3.50 x 2 = $7
(or something like a pair of Scythe S-flex, though that would be 4x as much for not much more performance)

D-Tek Fuzion CPU block = $65

6 D-Tek Hi-Flow fittings (G 1/4" thread 1/2" OD) - $2.30 x 6 = $13.80

D-Tek DB-1 inline/submersible pump = $45
(fine for a single block loop like this, you can add a second if you decide to expand the loop and feel it isn't offering enough flow -- it's small and will fit easily in your case, and it's 12v so you don't have to bother with pump relays or anything like that.)

Swiftech MicroRes reservoir = $20
(again, small, will fit in the case, or get a fillport for $12 + t-fitting for $2 or so and run a T-line if you'd prefer)

Tubing = $10-20

PT_Nuke antifungal/bacterial = $2.50


You're around $10 over budget when all is said and done... and that's before shipping... but if you feel like a project that'd be a lot more fun that mounting up a big air cooler. Just make sure you have a dremel and a drill available, at very least. It'll be -far- more quiet than running those 90CFM fans. You could pretty easily get it within budget by staying with less expensive tubing and switching to a less expensive or second-hand CPU block.
 
silent-circuit said:
<SNIP>
You're around $10 over budget when all is said and done... and that's before shipping... but if you feel like a project that'd be a lot more fun that mounting up a big air cooler. Just make sure you have a dremel and a drill available, at very least. It'll be -far- more quiet than running those 90CFM fans. You could pretty easily get it within budget by staying with less expensive tubing and switching to a less expensive or second-hand CPU block.
Click to expand...

Water cooling!? :eek:

I had not even thought of the concept, nor ever attempted to water-cool a computer. This would overshadow all of my previous accomplishments, ten-fold.

This is indeed a project worth looking into.

What happens if the tubes/waterblocks/ANYTHING leak, by the way? (Reading wiki article on watercooling as you read this)

Also: I am willing to strech the budget for this project. (How about GPU blocks and etc?) :p
 
I'd just get a high end air cooler and keep the extra cash for later, or if you really feel like going with water, get a Swiftech kit or a external kit from any number of manufacturers and work your way into it rather than buying individual parts right off the bat.
 
Watercooling is cool n' all (no pun intended), I tried it. However I didn't see enough of a difference in cooling to really justify that pain in the ass. I've got a Zalman CPU cooler (don't remember the exact model but it's huge) and an after market cooler for my 8800GTS plus 2 high flow exhaust fans, works great for me.
 
Don't get the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. This is much cheaper and performs similarly:
$16 - Cooler Master RR-CCH-L9U1-GP HYPER TX 2 CPU HSF ($15 MIR)

Oh, wait... thats a $220 budget?!?! not $22?!?!? Ok then, water cool that thing! lol. But I agree with kirbyrj and BrandonB... its not worth it, but if you want to try, get a kit first. High end air is much easier, IMO, and cools enough for a nice OC, unless you live where its 95°F.

I'd strongly suggest a Scythe Ninja Plus Rev.B, Tuniq Tower 120, or Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme + S-Flex fan:
$35 - Scythe SCNJ-1100P Ninja Plus Rev.B 120mm CPU HSF

$45 - Tuniq Tower 120 CPU HSF

$55 - Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme CPU HSF
$15 - Scythe S-Flex Fan SFF21E 120mm fan 1200RPM 49CFM 20.1dBA

The S-Flex fan is because the Ultra 120x doesnt come with a fan. You also what a reliable fan, so the S-FDB should keep that thing goin for YEARS. With any of those three coolers, you should be able to hit 3.6Ghz or higher, if your chip can handle it.

E6600: 9 × 266 = 2.4Ghz, DDR2-533 << STOCK speeds
E6600: 9 × 333 = 3.0Ghz, DDR2-667 << Nice OC
E6600: 9 × 400 = 3.6Ghz, DDR2-800 << Great OC, near its max on good air

OH, fans! Case fans, use Yate Loon (sleeve bearing) 120mm medium or low speed fans. They're much better than TriCool fans, and very cheap. Though they're sleeve bearing, you can buy 3 of them for the price of one S-FDB fan, lol. Some people get the high speed and use a fan controller or volt mod it so its more quiet.
$5 - YATE LOON 120mm Fan - D12SL-12C 1300RPM 44.5CFM 20.8dBA Sleeve
$3.50 - YATE LOON 120mm Fan - D12SL-12 1350RPM 47CFM 28dBA Sleeve

Just search for "yate loon 120mm" at jab-tech or any other retailer.


With my E6750 and the Tuniq, my 3.8Ghz OC is sittin rather cool at 52°C during Orthos, and 27°C idle (22°C ambient).
With my E6400 and the Ninja, my 3.6Ghz OC is sittin rather cool at 57°C during Orthos, and 35°C idle (22°C ambient). Temps were similar (slightly higher) with the Tuniq on this setup, lol.
 
Wow...nice price on that Coolermaster cooler. I might have to pick one of those up for a HTPC build.
 
Eh. Avoiding something because it's more difficult is anything but [H]ard. What's wrong with you people? ;)

OP: For $110 you can get the D-Tek Fuzion CPU and GPU blocks together from Petra's Tech Shop. Add another $25 for the G80 (8800) D-Tek "UniSink" to cover the RAM and other heat-producing components aside from the GPU itself on the GTS, so... About $70 for GPU cooling, plus you'll want a second radiator to cover the extra heat -- a 1x120 so you can keep it internally mounted, you can pick one up for $20 or so second-hand -- and probably a stronger pump, which bumps up cost of pump to around $75. Total cost to add the 8800 GTS to the loop would be $100 or so.

You have to look at it as a project, as it's really difficult to justify to most. You can always look at it as a longer-term investment. If you're willing to work on mounting you can reuse the blocks and everything else with all your future hardware. You may have to get new RAMsinks or something similarly minor, but the 'big cost' is out of the way. There are always exceptions to this, of course.

In the end I think you should spend a good bit of time asking questions in the watercooling forum if you're interested and make your own decisions.

It's true that watercooling can be more difficult than dealing with air -- mostly because it is much more likely to involve case modification -- but if you use clamps and barbs and leaktest properly (24+ hours) outside of the case it's not really dangerous. Yes, if there's a leak your hardware may be damaged, but if you use high quality components and occasionally check your tubing, you should be good.
 
silent-circuit said:
Eh. Avoiding something because it's more difficult is anything but [H]ard. What's wrong with you people? ;)

OP: For $110 you can get the D-Tek Fuzion CPU and GPU blocks together from Petra's Tech Shop. Add another $25 for the G80 (8800) D-Tek "UniSink" to cover the RAM and other heat-producing components aside from the GPU itself on the GTS, so... About $70 for GPU cooling, plus you'll want a second radiator to cover the extra heat -- a 1x120 so you can keep it internally mounted, you can pick one up for $20 or so second-hand -- and probably a stronger pump, which bumps up cost of pump to around $75. Total cost to add the 8800 GTS to the loop would be $100 or so.

You have to look at it as a project, as it's really difficult to justify to most. You can always look at it as a longer-term investment. If you're willing to work on mounting you can reuse the blocks and everything else with all your future hardware. You may have to get new RAMsinks or something similarly minor, but the 'big cost' is out of the way. There are always exceptions to this, of course.

In the end I think you should spend a good bit of time asking questions in the watercooling forum if you're interested and make your own decisions.

It's true that watercooling can be more difficult than dealing with air -- mostly because it is much more likely to involve case modification -- but if you use clamps and barbs and leaktest properly (24+ hours) outside of the case it's not really dangerous. Yes, if there's a leak your hardware may be damaged, but if you use high quality components and occasionally check your tubing, you should be good.
Click to expand...

It's not just that it's a lot more difficult than water, it's that the temperature differences you get are simply not enough to justify the cost or work of getting it setup. Don't get me wrong, watercooling can be fun, however it's still not really worth it. It's more of a niche market. To be honest my current air setup is quieter and runs cooler than the watercooling system I had setup.
 
BrandonB said:
It's not just that it's a lot more difficult than water, it's that the temperature differences you get are simply not enough to justify the cost or work of getting it setup. Don't get me wrong, watercooling can be fun, however it's still not really worth it. It's more of a niche market. To be honest my current air setup is quieter and runs cooler than the watercooling system I had setup.
Click to expand...

Then to put it simply, your water setup must not have been that good, because if water is louder than air /and/ giving mediocre temperatures you don't have enough surface area for heat-exchange (not a big enough radiator) and are running fast/loud fans trying to compensate. Your pump may also be over-taxed or just loud.

With sufficient surface area for heat exchange you can run lower speed, quieter fans with water than you can air.

Perfect example: 8800 GTX at 575Mhz core on stock cooling ran at 65C idle 75C load with the fan set to 100%, which was definitely loud enough to notice. It's running 38C idle 44C load at 675Mhz core on water, and the three Yate Loon mid-speed fans I have on the radiator for it are far quieter than the stock cooler was.
 
silent-circuit said:
Then to put it simply, your water setup must not have been that good, because if water is louder than air /and/ giving mediocre temperatures you don't have enough surface area for heat-exchange (not a big enough radiator) and are running fast/loud fans trying to compensate. Your pump may also be over-taxed or just loud.

With sufficient surface area for heat exchange you can run lower speed, quieter fans with water than you can air.

Perfect example: 8800 GTX at 575Mhz core on stock cooling ran at 65C idle 75C load with the fan set to 100%, which was definitely loud enough to notice. It's running 38C idle 44C load at 675Mhz core on water, and the three Yate Loon mid-speed fans I have on the radiator for it are far quieter than the stock cooler was.
Click to expand...

http://www.anandtech.com/casecoolingpsus/showdoc.aspx?i=3097

this article basically clears this matter up. simply put, if you are not willing to spend BIG money on water, don't bother and get a thermalright cooler. You need to spend a lot of money on water cooling for it to pay off. Your cooling results with your thermaltake may be good, but that kit is known to have reliability issues.

Having reliable and effective cooling = $$$
Having very good air cooling = way more affordable and easier
 
silent-circuit said:
Then to put it simply, your water setup must not have been that good, because if water is louder than air /and/ giving mediocre temperatures you don't have enough surface area for heat-exchange (not a big enough radiator) and are running fast/loud fans trying to compensate. Your pump may also be over-taxed or just loud.

With sufficient surface area for heat exchange you can run lower speed, quieter fans with water than you can air.

Perfect example: 8800 GTX at 575Mhz core on stock cooling ran at 65C idle 75C load with the fan set to 100%, which was definitely loud enough to notice. It's running 38C idle 44C load at 675Mhz core on water, and the three Yate Loon mid-speed fans I have on the radiator for it are far quieter than the stock cooler was.
Click to expand...

Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator x2
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Res
Swiftech Apogee GT CPU Block
Coolance Full Cover 8800GTS Block
Pentosin G11
PT Nuke
8x Yateloon 120MM fans (push pull system)
Masterkleer tubing

It's certainly not the best but that should have been just fine for a Core 2 Duo and an 8800GTS, no?
 
BrandonB said:
Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator x2
Swiftech Apogee GT CPU Block
Coolance Full Cover 8800GTS Block
Pentosin G11
PT Nuke
8x Yateloon 120MM fans (push pull system)
Masterkleer tubing

It's certainly not the best but that should have been just fine for a Core 2 Duo and an 8800GTS, no?
Click to expand...

In short, no. A G80 need a dual rad for itself alone. The Core 2 Duo really should have another dual rad, though it can get by with a high-quality single rad. You just didn't have enough surface area.
EDIT: Misread. Not sure what was going on there -- running a single loop you should see temps around the mid 40s to low 50s C due to the GPU dumping a great deal of heat in to the loop, but it shouldn't change much between idle and load. Loop design is also more important with a single loop. I think Pump > CPU block > 2x120 rad > GPU block > 2x120 rad would be ideal.
 
silent-circuit said:
In short, no. A G80 need a dual rad for itself alone. The Core 2 Duo really should have another dual rad, though it can get by with a high-quality single rad. You just didn't have enough surface area.
Click to expand...

*Sigh* <Insert emo comment about how wonderful it could have been if I had gotten good enough radiators>
 
BrandonB said:
*Sigh* <Insert emo comment about how wonderful it could have been if I had gotten good enough radiators>
Click to expand...

I didn't see the "x2" bit after the MCR220. You had enough surface area, I think it just came down to bad loop design, and possibly, too high ambient temps.
 
silent-circuit said:
I didn't see the "x2" bit after the MCR220. You had enough surface area, I think it just came down to bad loop design, and possibly, too high ambient temps.
Click to expand...

Well, I didn't have any exhaust fans so all the other heat giving components (pretty much everything) was heating up the case too much, and the loop was: Rad > Pump > Res > Rad > CPU > GPU > Rad. As for ambient temps my room is almost always at 68f.
 
$220 is a lot. On air, it seems agreed upon that the Thermaright Ultra 120 Extreme is the best air cooler. Kinda wish I saw it for 55 like in the link. I went with its little brother the Ultima 90 for like $10 less.

As for fans, I would go with whatever is cheap. I mean if it breaks just replace it. I could never see myself getting one "nice" $20 fan.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top