cooling a Q6600

[nst6563]

So, I've got a GemniII which really sucks when massive amounts of heat gets pumped throught it (was free so I can't complain too much).

I was thinking of the TRUE120, or possibly one of the HDT hsf's I've seen recently.

However...I'm also intrigued by water and the possibility of getting my Q6600 to 4ghz. Right now I'm stuck at 3.6ghz due to heat output during load.

I'm also a complete noob at watercooling. So, given that...I was looking at Petra's Tech Shop and their kits as they look to include everything a person would need to hook it up and run with it.
So given that - which one of these would people recommend?
http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoki.html

I was looking at the basic rev2 or the Elite rev 2. Cooling the GPU would be nice as well, but not a necessity (8800gts 640) (the danger den kit comes with a GPU block I see)

The biggest question I have would be if a single 2x120 rad is enough? Or should I go with a 3x120?

Saving money and going with something else is ALWAYS an option as well but my limit would be the Elite kit + shipping. Or would that swiftech H20-220 setup at the bottom of that page for ~$170 do the trick (and I would probably upgrade later).

With all that in mind, I'd appreciate some suggestions. I've been looking at the various parts and whatnot for a while now, and the kits on Petra's seem pretty good and well put together from what I've been seeing.

thanks,

 

[Xilikon]

The elite kit would make a perfect choice for your needs♥. However, keep in mind that if you want to add anything more later, you may need to get a bigger radiator.

My best advice would be to email Alex from this store and ask for help about picking the right kit. He is very helpful

 

[nst6563]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot and see what he's got up his sleeves.

If a single 2x120 radiator is enough and all I'll really be cooling is the CPU, would there be any benefit going with a 3x120?

thanks again.

 

[magoo]

I'm just here to throw a wrench in your plans.

If you are just going to cool the Q6600 and are imtimidated by watercooling......

a thought would be this:http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...d=4584&zenid=69afa766a953c0ce106df2085b761ace
coupled with this:http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...=21389&zenid=69afa766a953c0ce106df2085b761ace

I have a Nautilus currently.....and a OC Q6600.....let me tell you, the Nautilus is a great system, coupled with the Apogee GTX it keeps my cpu at 30 C in gaming easily.
Honestly, the block that Corsair supplies is very good, I just didnt like the hold down mechanism.

I graduated to a more beefy system when I added a GPU to my loop, but even before I did, my Nautilus kept my CPU and an 8800 GTX nice and cool.
Alot of pure water cooling guys will thumb their noses at external systems, but I sure like my Nautilus for ease of set up and use. It is very quiet and well built as well.

 

[fluke420]

Alot of pure water cooling guys will thumb their noses at external systems, but I sure like my Nautilus for ease of set up and use. It is very quiet and well built as well.

I would have to agree with you. Never understood why everyone is against external coolers. My Koolance Exos-1 has been going strong for over 2 years nonstop. It's a quality unit with plenty of cooling power.

 

[nst6563]

interesting... hmmm.... Is that a single 120 radiator in there?

Whatever I end up going with, the radiator will be located on the outside of my case. I have an Antec 3700AMB and squeezing a 2x120 INSIDE the case would take quite a bit of work. So I figured whatever I got, I'd simply run the tubing outside the case and either attach to the top of the case or the back (radbox style).

I've kind of made my mind up with going with either a 2x120 or a 3x120 radiator though. Just for the added piece of mind that it WILL be plenty to cool the cpu no matter what and I could add NB or GPU cooling to it as well in the future.

 

[nst6563]

I sorta picked out these components, which end up close to the Elite Kit but a little less $.

Swiftech ApogeeGT
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swapexpeunwa.html

Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html

D-Tek dB-1 12V DC Inline/Submersible Pump
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ddb12inpu.html

7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer (10' just in case)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html

Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmchire.html

120mm Scythe SY1225SL12M "Slip Stream" Case Fan (68.54 CFM, 24 dBA)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsysstcaf2.html


Total comes to ~213 after shipping.

I know it's not the greatest pump, but it's the quietest pump (and I'm looking to get as quiet as possible) I saw there, and if I needed something better down the road if I add the GPU into the loop I can upgrade.

Opinions? I tried to match everything to 1/2" but it was late when I put the list together.

 

[Xilikon]

Good choice but you could also get a Swiftech MCP350 as well. It's also pretty quiet and you can easily mod it to MCP355 (just link 2 points on the PCB).

 

[Croak]

That pump is very borderline in terms of flow rate and pressure with your block and radiator.

Move up to the MCP-350 or a Laing DDC 3.1 (same pump), and you'll be better off.

You could consider moving to a D-Tek FuZion CPU block, which is less restrictive, but that's still a weak pump.

If you want to simplify your loop, you might also look at the Swiftech MCR-220-QP-RES, which has a built in fill-port/reservoir, eliminating the need for a reservoir and associated tubing.

And don't forget you'll be needing barbs with any Swiftech radiator other than the 120 series, because they don't ship with any.

 

[nst6563]

Thanks for the tip on the pump. Which is better? The 350 or 355? I noticed the 355 is quite a bit more powerful than the 350...more power/max head is better for the entire system right? But just how much louder is the 355 than the 350...and I assume I can regulate the speed on the 355 if desired for quieter operation? I also noticed it has 3/8" barbs...with that work with the tubing (7/16" ID)? I'm a total fool right now at this point with the ID/OD and sizes of each. I'm definately not a plumber and the world is better off that way.

also with the barbs for the rad, Petra's includes barbs:
"Petra's Tech includes (2x) 1/4" NPSM, 1/2" OD Threaded Hose Barbs (for 1/2" and 7/16" ID Tubing) at no extra charge."

 

[Croak]

The 350 runs at 9w, the 355 runs at 18w. There's no physical difference between the two units, other than a soldered connection on the circuit board. If you buy the 350 and want more pumping power, you can quickly solder that connection, making your unit a 355/DDC 3.2.

If you get the 355 and it's too loud, you can de-solder the connection.

Noise is relative and subjective, the 350 makes a low hum, the 355 makes a slightly louder low hum, which is quiter than the typical 7200 RPM hard drive.

The real issue is vibration, any centrifugal pump can transmit vibration to the case, and that can get real loud and real annoying, real quick, and the faster spinning 355 creates more vibration.

Not the end of the world though, you can soft mount it, suspend it on something flexible, place it on a very thick pad that'll absorb the vibration. And some cases are solid enough to shrug off the the vibration. The neoprene pad that comes with the Swiftech branded DDC's doesn't work that great for vibration control, but does make it dead easy to mount.

With today's modern blocks, there's a flow-rate threshold you need to hit, and the rule of thumb there is 1 gallon per minute. Anything over 1gpm is good, but the gains are very minor once you hit the threshold.

Below 1gp is bad, and that D-Tek pump, or its Danger Den brother, would be hard pressed to make 1gpm with just a CPU and a MCR-320, and would be fall well below that once you start adding GPU or chipset blocks.

The 350 will easily get you over 1gpm with the rest of the hardware you've picked out, and keep you there when you add more blocks to the loop. The 355 has more margin for error and expansion, plus it provides a very minor improvement to overall cooling. But as I mentioned above, it's five minutes work to convert a 350 to a 355.

The stock top that comes on DDC pumps has molded-in 3/8" barbs, but that's no hill for a climber, Petra's sells replacement tops that come with larger barbs, AND improve flow rate quite a bit, for $30. Of course, that puts you at $100+ for a pump.

Or you can stick with 3/8", because the real deal is, other than for looks, I think 3/8" tubing is a better choice than 1/2" for most rigs. It's far easier to route, and has such a low impact on flow rate and temps compared to 1/2" that any difference is nearly theoretical. It makes about as much real-world difference as a UV reactive cable sleeves and LED lights. Which is quite important to some people, I'm not knocking the bling factor, but you just need to recognize it for what it is. 1/2" tubing is not a necessity by any means.

 

[Xilikon]

Yes, 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing is a great choice and that's what I picked myself. It combine the advantages of good flow and ease of routing compared to 1/2" ID tubing. Like Croak said, you cannot notice the temp difference since it's within the margin for error (under 0.2C variations).

Croak summed very well about the pumps so you should have enough informations to take a decision but aim to get something strong enough to push above 1 GPM.

 

[magoo]

The MCP 350 doesnt make any noise......I just replaced all my Nautilus stuff and went with a Dual 120 Rad,MicroRes,350 combination. I'm not kidding.....the MCP just is silent,period. I cant see how the 355 would be much different, especially if its in the case.

Use a Radbox, it was so simple I couldnt believe it. All the hardware is included, so the installation is a piece of cake. I drilled two small holes in the bottom of the case to mount the pump, put it on the foam pad, and it is dead silent.

I improved cooling by 10C over the nautilus, which cools my OC'd Q6600 and a stock 8800 GTX.

I use 3/8" ID/ 1/2" OD tubing with coil sleeving and you can do pretty much anything with the tubes in terms of routing.

 

[Markyip1]

I would recommend the 355 over the 350 based on the fact that there was a rash of reports about failing 350s a while back. The 355 does not seem to have any issues. A failing pump while your computer on is very bad news. This is one reason why the 365 / D5 is a more popular model than the 355/DDC-3.2

 

[Xilikon]

I would recommend the 355 over the 350 based on the fact that there was a rash of reports about failing 350s a while back. The 355 does not seem to have any issues. A failing pump while your computer on is very bad news. This is one reason why the 365 / D5 is a more popular model than the 355/DDC-3.2

You got things backward, the MCP355 has more failures than the MCP350. However, it's not a problem anymore with the new DDC 3.2 board and as long as you don't sit the pump on the gel or anything which block airflow from the bottom, it's very reliable.

The few DDC 3.2 failures reports are all user errors.

 

[Markyip1]

I stand corrected.

 

[nst6563]

I think I'll go with the 355 with their own top for it. If it's really as quiet as the average 7200rpm hdd...I can live with that.

I really appreciate all the input here - after I get some bills paid off with the tax refund I plan to pursue this very seriously. Heck I'll probably go overboard on it as it'll be a fun project. I plan on getting a 3x120 radiator at the minimum.

I picked up a couple Aquagate Viva setups a while back at a local shop that was trying to get rid of their stock (going out of business) and I got 2 for the price of one. So I linked both together and it's cooling my HTPC which is a A64 X2 4000+ very nicely. I was surprised as for the price I paid...I expected it to fail reasonably quickly but they've been running for around 6-8 months now and are still quiet.