• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

confused on psu

S

stpstrn

Weaksauce
Joined
Oct 26, 2004
Messages
97
i am only figuring i will need a 400W psu to run effieciently. i had planned on buying thermaltake but antec seems to be more trusted.
major components include
6800OC
MSI Neo2 Platnium
A64 3000
Corsair 1Gb
id like to save some money if at all possible. prices for these components are going up day by day so saving money is a good thing. think i can run anything lower?
 
If you want to go with a name brand, then this antec from the stickied thread looks like it would meet your needs. Personally, I've been using a Rosewill 500watt power supply for a week now and it has worked beautifully. It was about $50 compared to $65 for the Antec. I'll post a link to it if you're interested.
 
Dragon365 said:
If you want to go with a name brand, then this antec from the stickied thread looks like it would meet your needs. Personally, I've been using a Rosewill 500watt power supply for a week now and it has worked beautifully. It was about $50 compared to $65 for the Antec. I'll post a link to it if you're interested.
Click to expand...

that would be appreciated. thx for the reply
 
actually the prices on quality ATX12V v2.0 supplies have been dropping
stpstrn Id recommend you actually determine the load you need to power
see the How to Buy a PSU sticky
 
well, not much are known about the Rosewills
they are obviously not a PSU manufacturer being a major rebrander of many components

more useful would be to post that its performing with X range of voltage fluctuation (as logged by say MBM) for X amp load (which youd figure out in the How to Buy a PSU sticky)
and then describe the environment, UPS yes or no, ambient room, and case temperature, where its located in your case, if you overclocking and how stable that would be (a fairly good indicator with a load its powering being weighted with it)

while that isnt definative information, it would be indicative
since few actaully have real test instruments
(hi-res loggable DMM, Variac, Oscilliscope ect)
 
Let's see how much info I can give you...

The voltages never seem to be more than 5% outside of the normal (the worst offender is the 5V line, which sometimes drop to 4.89.) I don't have an amp figure, because the takaman calculator in the sticky doesn't seem quite right, but overclockulator 1.34b (which, btw, I recommend to calculate your power supply needs) says that I am using about 384 watts. MBM indicates a 25C ambient case temperature, and the house temp is usually around 20-23C. The power supply is on top and in back of my case, right above the processor.

Personally, I haven't had any problems with it - runs well and is quiet enough for me (the 120mm fan runs at about 1100rpm i believe.) Oh, btw, don't be fooled, the power supply is silver and not black. I don't have a case window or anything so it doesn't affect me. And if weight is any indicator, it is quite a bit heavier than my old generic 400w supply.
 
at 5% varience its in spec but I wouldnt recommend it as a high quality supply
if it under any circumstances it where to exceed that however Id put it on the avoid list
as over time it will wear on the mobos VRM and any other components

Basic 5% range is
+12V....11.4V to 12.6V
+5V......4.75V to 5.25V
+3.3V...3.135V to 3.465V

it wouldnt be a supply Id recommend for overclocking though where ideally youd want no fluctuation at all, of course load regulation is heavily effected by the actual component load as a maximum total (at any given time) and as the dynamic of those components as they change the draw (the worse case high draw to low draw), in addition the AC voltage stability which plays a very big role

exhausting the CPU Heatsink like it is in that location, drops its capacity over what a different position or ducting scheme could provide

thank you for the info :D
 
and I wouldnt recommend the overclockulator over takamans calculator
its simply like any other PSU calculator with a number of set values that will eventually be outdated, and a basic wattage figure

no amps broken out
thus its very misleading
simplistic isnt better ;)

actually following the instructions in the How to buy a PSU sticky thread and doing the research will get you a much much better idea of your needs ;)

it is however useful to figure up the watts on an overclock
which you can then convert and employ as a figure to add to takamans for the CPU amp draw
 
I wouldn't recommend it to a die-hard extreme overclocker either (I'd probably recommend a PCP&C) - I've only overclocked my video card (6800NU to 16/6 pipes and 350/425.) From my point of view, it's a pretty good value for a power supply going into a gaming system that will not be overclocked too much.
 
well if you even void the warranty and pop the top, please post pics ;)
 
Ice Czar said:
well if you even void the warranty and pop the top, please post pics ;)
Click to expand...
Don't plan on it :p, but I can see that there are two aluminum heatsinks inside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top