Complete parts list for first build - Need comments

auceny

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Messages
248
I think this is my final parts list. This is all based on parts/prices from Jab-Tech.com and Sidewindercomputers.com (found out sidewinder is like 20 miles from me)

Purchased - Swiftech Apogee GTZ Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock

Purchased - Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump with tach sensor

Purchased - Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator

Purchased - EK MultiOption 150

Purchased - PrimoFlex uv red tubing 1/2"

Purchased - YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed

Purchased - PT Nuke + 4oz. Pentosin

Purchased - LOGISYS 12" DUAL UV COLD CATHODE KIT

Purchased - Logisys 4" dual red ccfl kit

Purchased - Danger Den fillport (CM Haf has a pre-drilled hole for it so i had to buy it)

Purchased - Cooler Master Haf 932

Purchased - PC Power & Cooling S75CF 750W Red
 
What components are you cooling? What's your budget?

Right off the bat you can lose the coolant. Distilled water and a little PT Nuke, aquarium algaecide, or a kill coil is best. Also, you don;t really need the antikink coils. I personally think they are unnecessary and unattractive.
 
What components are you cooling? What's your budget?

Right off the bat you can lose the coolant. Distilled water and a little PT Nuke, aquarium algaecide, or a kill coil is best. Also, you don;t really need the antikink coils. I personally think they are unnecessary and unattractive.

For now it would just be cooling the cpu (E6750@3.2) but in the future it would be cpu (i7 920@4.0), gpu (GTX260), and maybe the nb/sb.

Budget is as cheap as I can keep it. If needed in the future I would add a 120.1 or 120.2.

The coolant I figure isn't really all that expensive and it keeps it simple for a first timer.

I'm not sure about the antikink coils. Some pictures I've seen and liked them and others have been meh. Figure for $8 might as well. The black coils on red tubing could look awesome.

If I want my system to pretty much be black and red should I use red uv cathodes instead of the normal uv cathodes?
 
Slipstreams don't work well on radiators - not enough static pressure. Would suggest some nice Yate Loons from Petra's or some S-Flex if you're willing to spend more.

I would also lose the coils as really the only situation you should be concerned about are sharp angles coming in/out of the rad/pump/res, in which case you're better served with some angle adapters.

If you're going to add a gpu and the chipset, you're going to to need at least another double rad, especially considering those i7 hot potatoes.
 
OK are the new fans I listed good? Yate Loon D12SH-12. Also got rid of the antikinks and changed up the cathodes. How does the D-tek Fuzion V2 compare to the GTZ? Looks better to me but I don't know how well it cools so I stuck with the GTZ for now. If they're identical in performance I'd probably go with the D-tek.
 
Most people would recommend the GTZ these days for performance. The V2 is a good block, but GTZ is said to be better.
 
OK are the new fans I listed good? Yate Loon D12SH-12. Also got rid of the antikinks and changed up the cathodes. How does the D-tek Fuzion V2 compare to the GTZ? Looks better to me but I don't know how well it cools so I stuck with the GTZ for now. If they're identical in performance I'd probably go with the D-tek.

Yes. At 12v they're loud as hell, and push a ton of air. I hope you have a fan controller to dial them back to about 5v or so.
 
I have a GTZ on a i920 with a dual 120 radiator.
Works very well. About 3 degrees cooler than my "old" GTX. Unfortunately I think the GTX looked alot better than the GTZ.

My 920 is at 3.85 GHz and runs about 23C idle and 40C under gaming load. 4 core Orthos was around 58C if I recall.

I use Swiftech coils. I use cheap tubing so the coils come in really handy.:D

Also, I don't understand why people want to use all this fancy-smancy watercoloring. I use distilled water and Swiftech Hydrx.....because that's what Swiftech recommends and I have had no problems with algae or corrosion. I do change my tubing and rinse the system every year or more if I have a major hardware change.
 
Also, I don't understand why people want to use all this fancy-smancy watercoloring. I use distilled water and Swiftech Hydrx.....because that's what Swiftech recommends and I have had no problems with algae or corrosion. I do change my tubing and rinse the system every year or more if I have a major hardware change.

haha fine fine i'll lose the coolant and add the Feser Base Corrosion Blocker. i don't think i want the swiftech hydrx because its green, unless i change the whole setup from red to green.
 
k the few updates are in red. i guess if it would be too loud i could add a fan controller as well.
 
Good choice on the reservoir. I have that reservoir, and it really makes things a lot easier. The way I have it set up is I use the top as a filport, bottom to feed the pump, bottom left as the return, and bottom right as a a convenient drain line(going to need a plug though).

I use the apogee gtz and that block rocks.

I wouldn't use plastic clamps for 1/2 in. tubing. I'm sure it will be
fine, but I use worm clamps for added security. Leak prevention is
more important than looks IMO.
 
I wouldn't use plastic clamps for 1/2 in. tubing. I'm sure it will be fine, but I use worm clamps for added security. Leak prevention is
more important than looks IMO.

would i be better off to ziptie the nozzles? i don't really like how big and clunky the worm clamps are. is there any alternative to these methods that works well? i've seen koolance's reusable clamps.

if i want to sleeve the cables from the power supply i would need this correct http://jab-tech.com/Molex-removal-tool-for-female-pins-Power-supplies-pr-1882.html

and thanks everyone for your patience and help. so far the majority of the people i've seen comment anywhere on this forum has been kind and helpful.
 
Last question I hope. The final list of parts is edited in the first post up top. My question is about the tubing. Since I'm using UV fluid should I just get cheap clear tubing? If there are benefits for the Primoflex tubing such as no clouding (since its red plastic you can't see it at least), less kinking, or better overall performance I'll definately keep it. If clear tubing won't cloud, kink, or restrict flow I'll go with it. Then the question comes wether to use Primoflex clear or just use the Masterkleer 7/16" tubing.

Thanks and I swear this will be my last "what parts to buy" question.
 
I would still say drop the coolant and go for distilled water and two drops of PT Nuke. It is cheaper and more effective. Otherwise you are good to go.
 
I would still say drop the coolant and go for distilled water and two drops of PT Nuke. It is cheaper and more effective. Otherwise you are good to go.

ended up going with red tubing and will use distilled water and most likely red antifreeze or maybe pt nuke.
 
Back
Top