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Cold Cathode borked my box!!!!!

M

magoo

[H]F Junkie
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Joined
Oct 21, 2004
Messages
14,699
Alright, I knew this was too good to be true......
I bought a set of 12" blue CC (2 tubes,dual inverter) the other day for 3 bucks(regularly 13 bucks,yeah,yeah......I should have known better) some company named Voy-Tech, when I bought a new side door from ISI Technologies. Anyway.....installed and attached the molex. The power is also connected to my HD and 2 80mm fans .

If the CC is switched "on" on start up everything is fine. If I boot up and then switch "on" the CC my comp freezes solid. WTF????? Too much power draw on that line???? I dunno.

Suggestions???? Or just tear it out???? I dont want to because I spent an afternoon rerouting cables and the like. :eek:
 
Sounds like power supply issues to me. Give us some info on your PC specifically Power Supply Wattage and Brand and the # of hard drives/cd drives you've got running in it.
 
From your sig, I can see you have a very demanding build. Like MjrStryker said, it is probably your PSU.
 
I built a system once that every time you tirned the lights on, it would reboot.

If the lights were already on when you booted up, it was fine.
 
I believe it's the nature of CCFL's to draw a spike of current when turned on. You might have better luck if you develop a brushless switch circuit to activate them so you get a steady ramp of current instead of a spike that levels off.
 
Thanks for the info.......fo' sho' it could be the PSU load.

I have a PC P&C 510 SLI.....runs the cpu and MB, separate line: 2 optical drives, separate line: HD, CCFL, 2 80-mm fans, separate line: 4 80mm fans and the MB molex for SLI. Each GPU has its own PCIe connector. Total amps= 36

I was certain the PSU could handle it......essentially, if I power up the CCFL after boot the HD call light comes on and the system freezez.....I think for some reason the volt/amp draw on this particular line causes the HD to get confused.

Oh well.....maybe God is telling me to get more power.
I dont need the ligthts that badly......it was just something to do on a rainy afternoon.

Anybody got any other ideas, come on in.
 
MjrStryker said:
I believe it's the nature of CCFL's to draw a spike of current when turned on. You might have better luck if you develop a brushless switch circuit to activate them so you get a steady ramp of current instead of a spike that levels off.
Click to expand...

How do you do that?????
 
Here is a really easy solution, try putting the CCs on the rail that has the optical drives on it. That way, the spike will not draw current away from the HDDs and cause freezing. That is assuming we are talking about seperate rails, not just wires :D
 
You'll need a circuit called a "switch conditioner" or "bounceless switch". (I mistakenly called it a brushless switch earlier: My bad) It's a circuit that prevents a connection from being made and broken several times in rapid succession, which happens when you flip a mechanical switch. Having a bounceless switch might help reduce the load on your power supply. Of course the simpler solution is to get a better power supply or a fan controller that's compatible with CCFL's too.

If you go with the bounceless switch option, try googling it to get some schematics. You'll have to find a blueprint that will work with your needs.
 
synaps3 said:
Here is a really easy solution, try putting the CCs on the rail that has the optical drives on it. That way, the spike will not draw current away from the HDDs and cause freezing. That is assuming we are talking about seperate rails, not just wires :D
Click to expand...

That is most helpful. I had thought of that myself, however am feeling the pain of needing to reroute a boatload of wiring to do just that......next rainy weekend I think that is in order.

I also think its a really good excuse to get one of those 850 watt PC P&C PSUs or maybe a KW.....bahhhhhhhhhahahahahaha. :D (recalls Frankenstein's lab)
 
MjrStryker said:
You'll need a circuit called a "switch conditioner" or "bounceless switch". (I mistakenly called it a brushless switch earlier: My bad) It's a circuit that prevents a connection from being made and broken several times in rapid succession, which happens when you flip a mechanical switch. Having a bounceless switch might help reduce the load on your power supply. Of course the simpler solution is to get a better power supply or a fan controller that's compatible with CCFL's too.

If you go with the bounceless switch option, try googling it to get some schematics. You'll have to find a blueprint that will work with your needs.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
 
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