Ceiling ventilation, halp

T

todlerix

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I'm going to be building a new system once intel/amd/nvidia/ati put out there new line of stuff. But I want to have the option of exhausting the heat effectively from the room, if its too warm.


The idea is case sits nearly flush to the ceiling, then have <halp> setup in the ceiling that goes to the attic's vents and blow out the heat there. I haven't decided where the fans will go, by the attic's vent or just above the computer. If I go with fans near the attic's vent I can have them large and beefy without the noise annoying me.

Anyone have some products/thoughts to share?
 
well youre going to need tools for the construction
sheetrock cutter -- basically a fancy box cutter
if your vent system is a light aluminum tin snips should cut through that easily
then you are going to need some spare aluminum to make your custom vent find some that already has bent edges so you can bolt it together. and some type of grill/fans for the ceiling. You could probably use pc stuff. Or go to home depot and see what they have to make it look more natural

Cut hole in ceiling and vent
attach your sheet metal/ aluminum /whatever to vent
run in to your whole
and then your choice of fans/grills

I wouldnt do it, but GL
 
ugh. look for a bathroom exhaust fan that mounts in the attic, ducting and metal (duct) tape. A power switch in your room. Duct will run to a vent above your computer. You can build a shroud to seal the gaps between the vent and the computer, but this can cause problems. the metal tape can hold everything together and seal the gaps.

overall not a trivial project. post some photos once you are done. :)
 
Here's a way better use of your time and money:

Buy a house fan, they sell them at any department hardware store. They look like this from the attic side after installation.
whole_house_fan.jpg


Here's a simplified picture with the grate included.
010207_ac_whole_house_fan_bro1.jpg


If you have a centrally located hatch to your attic, install the fan in that location. The fan should be exhausting into the attic.

Relating this back to your uses: When the room gets hot, open the window, turn the house fan on. 10 minutes later and any rooms with open windows are now at the outdoors temp. This is a great alternative to AC in the summer as well if you let it run at night and shut it off in the morning. It's basically the same amount of work as what you want except it'll benefit your entire house.
 
Crispy002 said:
open windows are now at the outdoors temp. This is a great alternative to AC in the summer
Click to expand...

I dont want any windows involved for pitch dark/sound leaking in/out. I live on a 1/4 acre so it wouldn't be the end of the world, but my goal is no windows involved.

I supposed another concern is things in the attic, small bugs, coming down through the vent. If I had airflow 24/7 I wouldn't have to worry, but I dont think that'll be the case.

Any particular type of material in the attic to prevent anything/whatever?



Also the house fan linked above would be terribly loud, atleast I assume so.

I have an AC, I'm trying to reduce its usage.
 
jiminator said:
ugh. look for a bathroom exhaust fan that mounts in the attic, ducting and metal (duct) tape. A power switch in your room. Duct will run to a vent above your computer. You can build a shroud to seal the gaps between the vent and the computer, but this can cause problems. the metal tape can hold everything together and seal the gaps.

overall not a trivial project. post some photos once you are done. :)
Click to expand...

I don't think I need to create any seals, with heat rising plus the vacuum effect from the exhaust fan in the attic I should be fine as long as its located above. I'll probably have it setup with the cpu and gpu(s) blowing upwards as well, so I think even something as small as a fire alarm should be fine. I should probably go to home depot but unless i find the right person to ask, its going to be difficult to find what I'm after
 
todlerix said:
I supposed another concern is things in the attic, small bugs, coming down through the vent. If I had airflow 24/7 I wouldn't have to worry, but I dont think that'll be the case.

Any particular type of material in the attic to prevent anything/whatever?



Also the house fan linked above would be terribly loud, atleast I assume so.

I have an AC, I'm trying to reduce its usage.
Click to expand...

They are loud, but generally running for 30 minutes is the most you need to drop your indoor temp to outdoor temp. It avoids using the AC and adds value to the house. I'm not sure what's in your attic either but I've never had any pest issues since installing mine about 4 years ago.

The only reason I mention it is that a bathroom vent is probably going to lack the airflow needed to make any significant change, in addition to the fact that rearranging the furniture would suddenly eliminate its usefulness.
 
Crispy002 said:
They are loud, but generally running for 30 minutes is the most you need to drop your indoor temp to outdoor temp. It avoids using the AC and adds value to the house. I'm not sure what's in your attic either but I've never had any pest issues since installing mine about 4 years ago.

The only reason I mention it is that a bathroom vent is probably going to lack the airflow needed to make any significant change, in addition to the fact that rearranging the furniture would suddenly eliminate its usefulness.
Click to expand...

No way it'd work then, its a small room, it gets hot quickly. I'd need something running for whenever I was using the room.

I'm pretty set on the bathroom vent type of solution with some sort of tubing/piping with fans at the end. It can also be hokey as can be because it will be in the attic, I'm going to take a peak up there tomorrow and see what's what.

I just need to worry about where to get fresh air, the only accessible source of air will be under the door. But I'd kind of like to seal that off for day time gaming/movies if the particular genre calls for black out.

I also need to look into a paint that doesn't reflect light to the extent my current paint does, or some other solution.
 
swimming pool said:
Something like this ducted from the case to the ridge vent or soffit vent in your roof?

Maybe add a thermal switch to automate it. Put a screen over the outlet to keep the bugs out.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...D26X-_-100073963&locStoreNum=3502&marketID=87
d514093d-badb-4d5f-92ce-3ebae284b0f9_300.jpg
Click to expand...

that seems spot on, now i just need to figure out placement. Problem with a near ceiling install is my cabling for mouse/headphones/keyboard/mic/speakers/monitor and access to usb ports.

I could run the exhaust down to the PC, but I think that'll look dreadful. Will have to mull that over for a bit.
 
Why use that to intake if you have no cool air. Your attic can hit 140 degrees in some states during the daytime, so it's a bad place to run intake. Put that in the attic attached to a tube that sucks air from your room. Word of warning, they take 110V to run, so you will need either a switch or a thermal diode of some type with a relay. If you can find one, put an automatic closing flap between it and your room, and you can get the ceiling vents at Lowe's or Home Depot for a clean look. They are in the ducting section. They also have an exhaust vent that has a flap on it to prevent things getting in, seems like mine was $8 for it for my bathroom fans. Also consider running insulated line to reduce condensation, as even if it's 85 degree air, if it's cooler than the attic it may condensate on hot days. I did it for the reverse reason: No condensation when it's cold INSIDE the tubing. Flexible insulated duct was something like $25 for 50 ft, but it's been a while so don't quote me.
 
brasherman said:
Why use that to intake if you have no cool air. Your attic can hit 140 degrees in some states during the daytime, so it's a bad place to run intake. Put that in the attic attached to a tube that sucks air from your room. Word of warning, they take 110V to run, so you will need either a switch or a thermal diode of some type with a relay. If you can find one, put an automatic closing flap between it and your room, and you can get the ceiling vents at Lowe's or Home Depot for a clean look. They are in the ducting section. They also have an exhaust vent that has a flap on it to prevent things getting in, seems like mine was $8 for it for my bathroom fans. Also consider running insulated line to reduce condensation, as even if it's 85 degree air, if it's cooler than the attic it may condensate on hot days. I did it for the reverse reason: No condensation when it's cold INSIDE the tubing. Flexible insulated duct was something like $25 for 50 ft, but it's been a while so don't quote me.
Click to expand...

Its meant for exhausting
 
i did something similar a few years ago, building a rack into a corner of a large closet/office.

the exhaust vent can simply be a 12x12 grill or perforated aluminum panel as long as there is decent open space above the ceiling and the warm air has somewhere to move. i don't think you will need to run a duct to the attic. that would be overkill. i don't think you would need a ceiling fan for this simple setup. way too much noise.

i cut a 12x12 hole (covered with a grate) in the floor under the rack and that drew cool air in from the crawlspace under the floor. i put a layer of small chicken wire under the grate to keep out the rodents. if you don't have the ability to draw in cool air, the exhaust vent won't work very well as the ambient temps will rise and get real stuffy with the door closed.
 
What kind of heat does your house have? Electric for ducted furnace?

I had a cabinet with all my AV gear including my PS3. Glass doors in the front and I added 2x 120mm USB powered fans to the back of the case, and lucky for me, the cabinet butted right against the wall to my cold air return vent. The vent pulls as it is, and the fans are bonus.
sdc10909.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
Do the same, but to the wall right behind your PC, vent into wall, or into a vent inside the wall and into the attic.

If you have a furnace, then you should have a cold air return system, and its designed to move air out. Even when a furnace isnt running the hot/cold cycle still moves air through the house.

I do home repair and renovation, specializing in water damage. 9/10 incidents Ideal with is water entering through top floor bathroom exhaust fans. I wouldnt want to park my PC right under one.

If I was you, Id leave my PC low, or on a desk as usual, and add an exhaust right behind the case. Between the studs should be a cavity in the wall that runs vertically, so all you would need to do is see it from above in the attic. Could even slide a dryer vent down in the wall cavity and fish it through your hole at PC level. Do the same for a wire and have the actual fan located in the attic far from the actual room. Would still pull the air, but wouldnt bother you with the noise.
or instead of using a big AC powered fan that really kill your hydro bill, at the wall, just make a cover plate for the hole and attach a 120mm fan. Thermaltake makes a USB 120mm fan, so just plug it into your PC and it run only when your tower is on. Quiet, efficient, cheap and easy.
T925-1328_main_image001_im.jpg


I wouldnt worry too much about drawing in cold air, as gaps in the door will allow for that, and if the rest of the hosue is regular temp and his heat is due only from his PC, it should be a major issue.
 
Ya know, for a few duckets you can just get a floor standing auxiliary AC unit or an inwindow unit to help you cool the room. I mean, that would be way faster, easier, and possibly even cheaper to keep your room and rig cool..... Just saying, we're killing a mouse with a trebuchet at this point. :confused:
 
brasherman said:
Ya know, for a few duckets you can just get a floor standing auxiliary AC unit or an inwindow unit to help you cool the room. I mean, that would be way faster, easier, and possibly even cheaper to keep your room and rig cool..... Just saying, we're killing a mouse with a trebuchet at this point. :confused:
Click to expand...

Its one small fan, a hole in the wall, and some duct - how is an AC unit cheaper?

Droc said:
What kind of heat does your house have? Electric for ducted furnace?

I had a cabinet with all my AV gear including my PS3. Glass doors in the front and I added 2x 120mm USB powered fans to the back of the case, and lucky for me, the cabinet butted right against the wall to my cold air return vent. The vent pulls as it is, and the fans are bonus.
<snipped photo>
Do the same, but to the wall right behind your PC, vent into wall, or into a vent inside the wall and into the attic.

If you have a furnace, then you should have a cold air return system, and its designed to move air out. Even when a furnace isnt running the hot/cold cycle still moves air through the house.

I do home repair and renovation, specializing in water damage. 9/10 incidents Ideal with is water entering through top floor bathroom exhaust fans. I wouldnt want to park my PC right under one.

If I was you, Id leave my PC low, or on a desk as usual, and add an exhaust right behind the case. Between the studs should be a cavity in the wall that runs vertically, so all you would need to do is see it from above in the attic. Could even slide a dryer vent down in the wall cavity and fish it through your hole at PC level. Do the same for a wire and have the actual fan located in the attic far from the actual room. Would still pull the air, but wouldnt bother you with the noise.
or instead of using a big AC powered fan that really kill your hydro bill, at the wall, just make a cover plate for the hole and attach a 120mm fan. Thermaltake makes a USB 120mm fan, so just plug it into your PC and it run only when your tower is on. Quiet, efficient, cheap and easy.
T925-1328_main_image001_im.jpg


I wouldnt worry too much about drawing in cold air, as gaps in the door will allow for that, and if the rest of the hosue is regular temp and his heat is due only from his PC, it shouldn't* be a major issue.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, I'll have to see about how the walls interface with the attic, thanks.
 
Let's say home store prices....
$25 for your in-duct fan
$2 for a switch if you go manual control
$20 for 12 gauge wire - 100 ft for run from breaker in main box (approx, price fluctuates)
$3 for 20 amp breaker
$2 for an old construction in-wall mount box
$10 minimum for a bunch of tubing and elbows
$8 to get outside exhaust vent with self closing flapper
$5 for in-ceiling grate, depending on style.

I'm getting $75 + tax, a little more for a drywall saw ($4?), and anything else needed to do it in incidentals. Pretty sure a cheap in-window is about that during the off season, maybe cheaper on CL. I'm not trying to harsh you, just saying it seems like this is at the point of lessening returns for intended purpose.......

Like I said, just trying to be the reality check.
 
todlerix said:
Sounds good, I'll have to see about how the walls interface with the attic, thanks.
Click to expand...
Forgot, typical fire code construction is that there is NO interface from wall to attic to slow fire propagation. Therefore, the wall is just a sealed space.
 
brasherman said:
Forgot, typical fire code construction is that there is NO interface from wall to attic to slow fire propagation. Therefore, the wall is just a sealed space.
Click to expand...

Depends where you are and age. I see all kinds of pre 85 buildings where that doesnt apply.
If your looking to do in wall, you can by code run venting in the wall and up into the attic.
 
Very true, parents farmhouse was full of sawdust top to bottom, two floors deep.... :eek: Dad added fire stops when he put the walls back together.
 
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