Cathode array

[ManiacChart]

So here's what I'm trying to do. I want to do some background lighting for a bar type thing. Anyways, I need 8 light sources, for the 8 seperate spaces I have. I'm thinking of buying this :
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=17288&vpn=CLK12UV2&manufacture=Logisys Computer x 4

# Tube diameter: 3.0mm
# Tube length: 300mm/100mm
# Input voltage of inverter: 12v
# Output voltage of inverter: 680v
# Current draw: 5.0mAv
# Brightness: 28,000~30,000 cd/m?
# Lifetime: 30,000 hours

Now I saw this thread : http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1207762 where I saw someone recommend this : http://www.jab-tech.com/12v-DC-Power-Supply-with-Single-Molex-Connector-pr-3776.html

Now that sounds like what I need. Now I assume the Cathodes I listed have one Molex connector for both "bulbs". So I would need a 4-way molex splitter to interface between the external PSU and my cathodes right?

These have a current draw of 5.0mA. I dunno if that's for both or for one though. Let's assume it's for one. That means a total draw of 40mA for all 8 bulbs. Or would that be it since they are all in parallel or something? And someone in that other thread said that whatever current needed by the inverter times two needs to be less than 2A. So I'd be okay right?

For some reason it all sounds too easy. And I don't know much about this stuff... Someone tell me this is not working. I can feel it.

Okay. Now step two. I'd like to be able to switch this on/off. Anyone has any idea how I could do this? Right now my best idea is to plug that PSU on a powerbar that has a switch on it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[Mohonri]

I'm going to assume that the current draw for the cathodes is 5mA per cathode, off of the 680v from the inverter. That gives you about 3.5 watts per CCFL. That isn't a whole lot of light, so I think something may be a bit questionable.

In any case, though, the electrical load from those CCFL's is going to be very much within the capability of the PSU. All you need is a couple splitters if the PSU doesn't have enough of its own plugs.

To switch it on and off, all you need is a switch that's connected to two wires on the ATX connector: The green one and a black one (doesn't matter which). Plug the PSU in and make sure the switch on the back is on (if it has one). The switch that's connected to the green and black wires will be fine.

 

[game14]

have a look at http://www.vibelights.com/, they have some interesting lighting options there . I ordered from them and their cathodes are a little brighter then most other , also their converters are of higher quality .

 

[ManiacChart]

I'm going to assume that the current draw for the cathodes is 5mA per cathode, off of the 680v from the inverter. That gives you about 3.5 watts per CCFL. That isn't a whole lot of light, so I think something may be a bit questionable.

In any case, though, the electrical load from those CCFL's is going to be very much within the capability of the PSU. All you need is a couple splitters if the PSU doesn't have enough of its own plugs.

To switch it on and off, all you need is a switch that's connected to two wires on the ATX connector: The green one and a black one (doesn't matter which). Plug the PSU in and make sure the switch on the back is on (if it has one). The switch that's connected to the green and black wires will be fine.

As far as the light goes, I'd be okay if it's not very bright, I'd like a gentle lighting. But I'm glad to see you confirm I'll be good with one PSU. And thanks for the switch suggestion!

Also thanks for the link Game!

 

[Arcygenical]

Those CCFL's draw closer to 6w when loaded with 2 bulbs... At least, the logisys ones do.

Makes sense though, as I picked up a 10w straight CFL bulb to help me add some light to my plants... and it's bright as hell. CCFL lamps meet or exceed the luminosity of a T8 CFL+ballast apparatus... Straight white tubes let off almost 150 lumens per watt... Therefore, I'm assuming a 7w CCFL bulb would easily match the luminosity of that 10w CFL bulb... for immediate use (only downside is it's heat output). That's a lot of light, but also describes how the light loses it's potency within 3-4 feet from the bulb (as seen in computer lighting).

But that means I wouldn't trust running 4 of them on that power supply. It would run 4 of them, but it would be RIGHT at it's operating limit!

 

[qbert3]

I did this once for my old desk. I re-wired a power supply so that all I had to do was turn the switch to "ON" on the back of the power supply. I just searched on the net for how to make your own testing power supply. From there I hooked the powersupply to a power socket on the wall that was connected to a light switch on my wall. Worked out great for the cathodes.

Problems I ran into -
I ended up strapping the power supply underneath my desk because of all the energy that would build up. Sometimes even touching it would shock me just a little. It was a POS, but it worked.

Another problem was that I bought sound reactive lights and every single set I bought stopped working within a few weeks. The lights would turn on, but would not react at all to sound.

For some reason it all sounds too easy. And I don't know much about this stuff... Someone tell me this is not working. I can feel it.

Okay. Now step two. I'd like to be able to switch this on/off. Anyone has any idea how I could do this? Right now my best idea is to plug that PSU on a powerbar that has a switch on it.

My best suggestion is to create a "Test power supply". I dont even know much about wiring but I was able to do it with scissors and electric tape.