• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Case painting woes

Y

YoMoma

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
201
Got a case im painting the inside on. Just found after the first layer dried that I can easily scratch my fingernail through the paint and see metal. I chose not to use primer as I was told that fusion paint itself would work well withouit primer. If I put more coats on it, will it get tougher to the point that the paint wont scratch off? How about if I put a coat of laquer or a urathane finish on when I`m done to keep the paint from scratching off?
I`d rather not sand off all I`ve done so far. The whole inside of the case has 1 coat on it.
What should I do?
 
I chose not to use primer as I was told that fusion paint itself would work well withouit primer.
Click to expand...

Who said that? That's totally incorrect. Fusion paint is made specifically for PLASTICS, it will work without a PLASTIC primer... On metal, it's bad enough WITH a primer, let alone without one.

If you're painting without a primer, you need to be using a tremclad rustpaint... Or at least sanding the inside of the case down with 200g sandpaper before spraying with any other rust-paint. Or, primering...

Your choices now are to sand it all off, and do it correctly, or apply a BIG-ASS coat of a car-quality clear coat... You'll probably need about 3 cans for the entire inside of the case in the amount required.

If you're allowed to, take all the plastic parts off the case, and put it in the oven for 3-4 hours before clear-coating it. Baking the paint increases it's durability considerably. Use the lowest heat your oven can provide... Generally about 170f
 
My bad... is not fusion paint, but Krylon interior/exterior. Says for wood, metal, glass, wicker. And I did sand the entire inside down before painting the first coat with 220 grit. My case apperars to be aluminum though. Very lightweight. Do I need to sand off and start over? The can says if I sand off paint it may release lead dust..
 
YoMoma said:
My bad... is not fusion paint, but Krylon interior/exterior. Says for wood, metal, glass, wicker. And I did sand the entire inside down before painting the first coat with 220 grit. My case apperars to be aluminum though. Very lightweight. Do I need to sand off and start over? The can says if I sand off paint it may release lead dust..
Click to expand...

Hmmm... Aluminum cases are much harder to paint than steel cases, unfortunately... You did good sanding the insides first, but you really need a good aluminum or self-etching primer. If you can, get some "Zinc Chromate" aluminum primer from an autoparts store. It's usually neon yellow (a bitch to paint over :p) but It sticks like super glue to aluminum! A single can should be sufficient. Only a thin layer is required, and no sanding is needed after it's applied properly.

If you can't get any of that, you *need* a self etching primer. Regular metal primers won't work too well.Two cans of SE primer should do it, as you do need to sand after the 2nd primer application.

After that, yes, I'd strongly suggest you sand what you've already got and apply a new paint... Wear a sanding mask please.

Aluminum is a really tough beast to paint and have the paint stick, which is why most aluminum is anodized.
 
I know it's a little late but 220 is too coarse for this. 400 or a scuff pad would work fine. Scuff pads are great for the inside of the case because it gets into the corners and hard to reach areas easily.

A self etch primer is good for aluminum or steel. Going without is taking a chance. I wouldn't even think you'd use a half a can of self etch on a case. It's not like regular primer, you just do 2 of light coats and then start your base once that flashes off. No sanding necessary.

Since you're using rattle can, you can probably take some paper towels and thinner and go over that first coat you already did. Should take it right off... if you didn't cake it on or anything. Then just reapply with the self etch first and then start your base coat.

I wouldn't recommend putting your case in the oven if you're new to painting. Use those 500watt halogen work lamps if you're in a hurry to get things to cure.
 
Qtip42 said:
Since you're using rattle can, you can probably take some paper towels and thinner and go over that first coat you already did. Should take it right off... if you didn't cake it on or anything. Then just reapply with the self etch first and then start your base coat.

I wouldn't recommend putting your case in the oven if you're new to painting. Use those 500watt halogen work lamps if you're in a hurry to get things to cure.
Click to expand...

Ooh? Does paint thinner really work for that? I've tried everything (short of turpentine) and nothing got rattlecan stuff off...

I've also found that those 500w halogens tend to make my paint bubble... Any tips?
 
Lacquer thinner always takes rattle can off (paint thinner is a bit diff).... Just don't use it when you lay down heavy coats because you'll have a mess on your hands instead of a clean part. HD has it in a blue/orange gallon container for $15.

Move the halogens further away! heheh 3 feet or more is fine.
 
i used regular gas to get paint off . Works very fast on freshly painted parts , on older paint it need to soak a while . Just dont do it inside , it smells a lot . And never on plastic parts , many plastic parts melt in contact with gas .
I used Rust-Oleum paint for my case on all plastic and aluminum parts . Worked good , just let it dry for enough time until you start a scratch test :rolleyes:
 
lol gas. Inventive but that's gotta be the worst. The smell alone would knock ya out.
 
Car wash pressure washer should get most of the soft paint off.....then hit it with automotive carb cleaner and pressure wash again.....heated pressure wash is best....but pressure will work if the paint is that soft.
 
Qtip42 said:
lol gas. Inventive but that's gotta be the worst. The smell alone would knock ya out.
Click to expand...

Thats why i said NOT inside , but outside is ok . Its not that you have to use gallons of it . Just pour a little gas over the paint and after a short time you gonna see the paint peeling off , then you easily wipe it away with a cloth .Done.
Have used gas to remove paint for many years and didnt find anything that works as good and is that cheap and easy to get .
But if someone is very sensitive to the smell of gas , then its better to stay away from this method before he gets knocked out :rolleyes:
 
When I did the scratch test, it was about an hour after finishing the first coat. Came off quite easily. Maybe I will try the power wash method first. Then carb cleaner. If that doesnt work, I will use a scuff pad idea. There are 2 pieces of plastic left in I couldnt get out. Down by the 3.5 inch drive area. I dont plan on using anything in this drive area. Will carb cleaner trash out this plastic?
 
Quick question since we are all talking about painting/removal. I want to paint my next case, I don't like to use rattle cans because it takes to damn long and is sorta expensive.

How good is this setup?

Ovens not a problem going to be building me a nice huge brick oven to cook it in. My main question is how good will it look?

I have noticed that people reviewing say that there is no need to sand it because it has no runs and etc....

I'd like a somewhat bright coat, but I am sure I can use some rattle can clear coat to make it look better.

Oh and to the OP sorry for stealing your thread.

Thanks.

Tyler
 
Still looking around for a primer made specifically for aluminum. I talked to a person at a paint store via cellphone. They didnt have primer for aluminum, but they had some for galvinized. Would this work on aluminum if its all I can find?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top