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Carputer

C

CHollman82

Gawd
Joined
Aug 15, 2002
Messages
531
I've been thinking of building a computer for my car for a while now and have finally gotten enough money to do it. I want some advice on what to get, where to put it, and how to do it in general. I already have a 7" LCD display and this is the rest of the hardware I've been looking into:

Board/CPU:
- VIA Epia M1000
- 1ghz VIA C3 Processor
- Onboard video, LAN, sound, TV-out
- $150

Memory
- Micron 512mb PC2100 (The fastest the board will take)
- $50

Hard Drive
- Western Digital 120gb ATA133 7200rpm 8mb cache
- $70

Misc
- M1-ATX DC-DC Automotive Computer Power Supply - $80
- Bluetooth adapter so I can link to my phone - $20
- DVD/Keyboard/Mouse/Game controller/Case ???

TOTAL: $370 - $420

The first thing I want to ask about is how hot will all this get? I want to put it out of site like in the glove box or trunk, but those places both seem like they'd get pretty hot. I don't want it freezing up all the time.

Another thing I've been thinking of is what OS to put on it. I have XP Pro, 2K Pro, 98SE, ME, and Linux (any distribution). I like linux because its smaller and faster than the others, but I don't know if there are console emulators for it. I want to be able to use my NES, SNES, and Genesis emulators. If anyone knows of good ones for linux tell me.Other things Ill be using it for are to play MP3s through my cars sound system, watch DVDs and TV show episodes, and (maybe) use the internet, if the city I'm moving to has any good WiFi hotspots.

How good is the video card (chip, whatever) on that board? Will I be able to play UT and HL1 and other games from that era? It would be great if it could play modern things but I doubt it. How much will I even be able to see on that tiny monitor? Is gameplay even feasable? I've never seen a monitor of that size working before.

Last question, should I spend the ridiculous amount of money to get a miniITX case for it or should I make my own? I'm pretty good with tools and was thinking about making a case out of either an old NES or my cousins Xbox case that hes custom painted with car paint (it looks really sweet).

Thanks for all the help I'm sure Ill get, this place is like ridiculously active 24/7...
 
You didn't cover THE most expensive and important part of a car PC: the miniature VGA LCD (with or without touchscreen).

Just go to mp3car.com, best place to work this stuff out.
 
Thats an awesome link, thanks. I did say that I already have the display though at the top of the post...
 
mame is available for linux. Then again, I'll pimp the 'nix ride ;)
 
I was also planning to do this and never got to it but that website mp3car has a lot of good info. If I were you i would invest in a Xenarc touchscreen. They are expensive but believe me when you are driving you dont want a keyboard on your lap just to change the song. Also touchscreens are so sexy. :D

If you are going to put it in the glove box you can always add fans to the glove box. Right underneath the dash. This should get some airflow going through there or put it underneath the seat. There is already a path for air to flow. You just need to add fans to help it out.

EDIT: Also have you thought about going with a notebook drive. I heard they are better at taking shocks from bumps when driving. I would consider it if I were you especially if you have a stiff driving car like mine.
 
Fanatik said:
EDIT: Also have you thought about going with a notebook drive. I heard they are better at taking shocks from bumps when driving. I would consider it if I were you especially if you have a stiff driving car like mine.
Click to expand...

You do realize that most modern desktop hard drives are rated at least 3Gs when operating (a lot more when not). Basically that means any bump that should damage your hard drive will probably splatter you against the headliner first.
 
could just get a laptop without a screen and squeese it in there somewhere. its flat, powerful, and has everything. probally hide it under your seat also. course, wheres the fun in that?
 
Othersider said:
You do realize that most modern desktop hard drives are rated at least 3Gs when operating (a lot more when not). Basically that means any bump that should damage your hard drive will probably splatter you against the headliner first.
Click to expand...

or you could just put a blanket around it or some sort of cushioning. gives me yet another reason to buy some bubble wrap
 
I checked Logic Supply and a worse system than what I am getting was over $700...

About the hard drive, I've kicked my computer out of anger (dont ask) before while it was running and destroyed the front bezel and knocked the side panel off and it shut off immediately. I fired it back up about a half hour later after checking to see if my huge HS broke the processor and expected the HDD to be bad, it started right up like nothing happened and has ran ever since like it never happened....
 
Maybe you should consider a Mac Mini.
They are small, you can mount it in your dash, and wireless and/or bluetooth is available. Plus you can easily adapt a laptop car psu to the mini.
 
I second the Mac Mini recommendation. Otherwise, you should invest in a laptop hard drive. Desktop hard drives are not designed to take the stress of an automotive environment, not without lots of cushioning/suspension. But hey, if you want to risk it, go ahead.
 
I just started my Carputer project. I got the PC-Chips motherboard M789CG. Has an integrated 800 MHz (2000+) Via C3 cpu w/ onboard Lan, audio, video. While this (or the M10k) wouln't be blazing fast, should be enough and it is 1/3 the price of the M10k. Newegg was the only one I could find that carried it.

Aux
 
CHollman82 said:
I checked Logic Supply and a worse system than what I am getting was over $700...
Click to expand...

I priced out everything you suggested(with more options like a startup controller and case) for less then 700. I've found Logic supply to be about 10% more expensive, but I can justify that because I don't have to hunt for everything I need.

As far as places to put things, under the seat is good. As long as it isn't in direct light, it shouldn't get hot enough to be a problem.
 
Be sure to post pics as you work on this project!
 
I was just wondering if the M1-ATX DC-DC ATX will work with the PC CHIPS M789CG. The specs say that you need a board that will run on the 5v rail and i can't seem to find out if the PC CHIPS M789CG runs on 12v or 5v. :(
 
Othersider said:
You do realize that most modern desktop hard drives are rated at least 3Gs when operating (a lot more when not). Basically that means any bump that should damage your hard drive will probably splatter you against the headliner first.
Click to expand...
lol
 
im looking into building a carputer aswell, heres what ive come up with so far:

Morex Mini-ITX Case
VIA EPIA 800
2x128MB PC100
30GB 2.5" HD
USB Remote Wonder
USB 802.11G Adapter

Generic 7.2" LCD
 
I've completed 2 seperate carpc projects in 2 seperate cars, and let me tell you, for all the hard work (and countless hundreds of dollars) that can go into it, it is completely worth it!

My current project is located here:
http://www.sethmesser.com
 
Do any of you know anything about the shutdown controllers? Im switching over to an HP 1HZ celery system (mITX) and a Generic 7" LCD. I see all these ITBM or w/e shutdown thingies that turn the comp off when ignition is off, and on when ignition is on....can anyone tell me where to get them cheap (ebay link PM'd to me preferably) and how to use them?

thx
 
Dillusion,

I currently use a dc-dc powersupply + shutdown controller (all in one) from Opus Solutions. I however will be upgrading to Carnetix's latest offering that not only will safely power x86 based hardware (along with your lcd screen) but will safely power a MiniMac.

My first setup in my Dodge Intrepid, I used an inverter and thats it, but then once I got my new car (Nissan Maxima), I switched to that Opus 150w unit. It's been quite reliable.
 
So this this auto shutdown business, i can use it with any DC Powered computer right? Is there any splicing involved? I see the two pinned headers on both sides of the board, but i have no idea what goes where, or where to connect anything, does it eliminate the need to use a 12V cigarette lighter plug? IE- use the power wiring from the head unit?

If i pickup a power inverter from a local store, lets say a 19.99 200w one. Ide have to unplug and replug it everytime i start my car correct? and using this ITBM switch thing allows it to shut off and ON via sensing the ignition, thats much better isnt it?

ALSO: what software do you recommend? IE- what car media center software do you use? and what version of windows, etc...
 
Dillusion,

To set you straight, i don't recommend an inverter at all, I recommend a dc-dc power supply with the shutdown unit BUILT ON to the power supply, much like the Opus ones or the Carnetix ones. It's well worth the investment to get both all in one. I'd recommend the 1900 series from Carnetix.
 
Yes but im not building my own EPIA anymore. Im using an HP ePC (Celeron 1GHZ, 256Mb PC133, 30GB HD, VGA) with Either Linux or Windows XP Pro SP2.

The HP Computer uses a Laptop-Style Power supply, so either i use an inverter, to hook it up to the 12v cig lighter, or i use one of those PCB type thingies to auto turn it on/off.
 
Dillusion said:
Yes but im not building my own EPIA anymore. Im using an HP ePC (Celeron 1GHZ, 256Mb PC133, 30GB HD, VGA) with Either Linux or Windows XP Pro SP2.

The HP Computer uses a Laptop-Style Power supply, so either i use an inverter, to hook it up to the 12v cig lighter, or i use one of those PCB type thingies to auto turn it on/off.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't it be easier to just use a laptop DC power supply that can run off the car's power?
 
Took too long to post. What voltage/amperage does the HP need?

Inverters are noisey electrically. Look at it this way, you are DC to AC to DC. DC to DC is the way to go and less parts in the chain to go wrong. Still, it is nice to have one around just incase you need to AC in the middle of a canefield.

i can use it with any DC Powered computer right? Is there any splicing involved?

The way it works is that it plugs into the header for the start switch and and into the ATX power connection. Start the vehicle and the computer starts. Turn off the vehicle and the computer goes to sleep or off.

You need three wires. Ignition, +12 and -12. All of which should be behind the head unit. You could get away with +12 and -12. There should be directions and polorized leads included with the controller. The only splicing you should have to do is to take the leads supplied and match the colors.

what software do you recommend? IE- what car media center software do you use? and what version of windows, etc

I use Co-Pilot which doesn't play well with frontends, so I've used WinXP and Win2K with A little fat trimmed and an Older version of MyHTPC. Most everything else is geared for autoplay when I insert a disc.

Other frontends I've played with were Mediacar and MediaEngine.

I looked at Linux, but what I wanted wasn't where I wanted it to be, but this was a year or two ago.
 
The only reason im leaning towards a windows XP pro sp2 install is because i will be using a USB 802.11G adapter to transfer files from my home PC to my carputer when my car is in the garage overnight, i do have a wireless home network to do this with.

IM not sure what the amperage on the HP is...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5191525159&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

thats the ebay link to it, donno if you can find anything out from that... I just a standard power brick, no more than 100-200w i believe.

I really wanna do that ignition on/off, turn on/sleep mode business. My jetta didnt play well with my old subwoofer amp i had in there, battery died allot, and i HATE dead batteries.

Anymore explanations on the auto on/off thing and any recommendations on which one to buy would be appreciated.
 
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
I dont see an explanation anywhere there, im still cloudy on this shutdown controller shit :(

If i use a Linux media center distro, will i have problems accessing my home network which is all windows xp pro sp2 computers?
 
What do you want to know about a shutdown controller?


When you start your vehicle, the voltage drops. It really drops. Like 7 volts. If you have an inverter, the computer reboots. The voltage jumps up when the vehicle starts and any device not designed for overvoltage can be harmed.

A shutdown controller is an electronic button. It plugs into the header your power switch does and converts the 12volts on the ignition line into a pulse that turns on the computer.Likewise, they shutdown the computer when IGN goes to zero. Normally there is a time delay built in so that the computer stays on for a little while and then shuts down. Nicer ones are also power supplies that filter and regulate the power so that it is always 12volts.
 
Ok, so lets say i already have the PSU, the power brick style one that comes with the computer, how can i make that power brick work with that HP computer, and with an ITPS controller thingy. I dont need a new ITX PSU, like the OPUS. I need that skinny green PCB looking thing with the black heatsink in the middle and the two headers one each side, right?

How would i take that approach...

EDIT: I have a good under standing of what the ITPS does now...but i dont understand the routing of the cables now, is it...

HU Wiring - ITPS - Power Brick - CPU

or Hu Wiring - ITPS - Inverter - Brick - CPU

If its the firs tone, that means i have to cut off the prongs from the wall outlet conenctor and splice that power brick onto the ITPS right?
 
Hook the power supply to the car and the computer.

Then hook the ITPS into your car power system and connect it to the header for your power switch.
 
ooooo, that makes allot more sense.

So if i had an M1 PSU i would only have to go computer to car power. But since i have this brick style PSU, i have to invert it to the car, then use the ITPS to turn it on/off?

Hope i got this right :)
 
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