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Can't overclock E2180. Processor limitation or mobo settings?

Mopower

Gawd
Joined
Feb 13, 2006
Messages
519
I just bought a : Intel E2180 and a GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3L. I'm using a Xigmatech cooler.

I disabled all the SMART fans and throttling that the mobo has. If I try to set the FSB to higher than 230 the bios resets and it's back to 200. 230 will work but sometimes when I restart my PC it will automatically be set back to 200. I have also tried using the EZTune software that came with the mobo but when I try to set the CPU speed to higher than 2300 mhz the PC freezes up when I hit the GO button on the program.

Any ideas? Or is this processor just a dud?

I am using 4gb of Corsair XMS ram as well.
 
More information needed.
Running @ 230 what does CPU-Z report for your vcore idle/load. What about cooling? Are you using stock HS/F or aftermarket? What are your temps idle/load (use Coretemp, Realtemp, or Speedfan - they all report different numbers I think).

FYI, these series chips are usually a total B to OC. Here are some 2180 OC threads, and 2200 OC thread.
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1319390
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1310754
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1280001
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1270983
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1254918


 
Probably you left the System Memory Multiplier (SPD)=4, so if the FSB=230 the resulting DDR frequency is 920MHz. If your XMS memory is rated at 800MHz 5-5-5-18-2T@1.9V - then you must apply abut 2.1V to the RAM modules and set the Performance Enhance to Standard to achieve higher speeds. You can use the 2.4 multiplier till 333MHz FSB easily.
Usually above 266MHz FSB you must raise the CPU voltage as well. Pay attention to the vdroop, because the DS3L has a lot of it ;)
Please put your rig in the sig !
 
My 2180 on a BadAxe2 is running fine, with no Vcore changes at 2.5GHz.

It's a backup/e-mail rig, so no need to push it further, but it was an easy OC.
 
Mine (last link up above) maxed out a little over 3.0ghtz on a P35-DS3L. It's currently sitting in a shuttle @ 2.5ghtz due to memory setting limits in the Shuttle Bios. Great temps, stable OC. Just a PITA if you want to push it over say 2.8-3.0ghtz.

 
Subscribing....
I just finished putting together almost the exact same setup. I've got everything running at stock right now to be sure I don't have any issue and then I'm gonna try for 3GHz.
 
Subscribing....
I just finished putting together almost the exact same setup. I've got everything running at stock right now to be sure I don't have any issue and then I'm gonna try for 3GHz.
Mine hit 3ghz on the stock cooler and a Gigabyte P31 DSL (I think DSL) easy. Bumped VCORE less then .5 volts. Memory at 4/5 or something, (running at DDR800 with a 333FSB)
333x9
 
Advice here is solid.

To summarize:

1. Check temps, they should be under 60C load otherwise you may run into stability issues.
2. Raise Voltage. Assuming your temps are okay, slowly up the voltage.
3. Unlink memory and FSB clocks.
 
Ok, thanks for the advice.

I changed the System Memory Multiplier to 2. Now I'm at 2.6 stable with no problems or automatic resets by the mobo. I'll try for 3.0 tonight. Right now my temps at 2.6 are 31C idle and 41C under load. Is this good? How high in the temps can I go without causing problems. And also I have the smart cpu fan mode disabled. Should I keep it disabled. It's pretty damned loud that way. I'd like to turn it on because the fan was a lot quieter with it on but if it's better to leave it off I will I'm sure the temps would sky rocket with it on.
 
If you are running it under load 24x7 (like if you're folding for the [H]orde) I would try to keep it under 60C, though you will likely need an aftermarket HS/F for it (I recommend the TR Ultima-90). If it will only occasionally be under full load (like when you are gaming, or ripping a CD or something) then anything under 75C @ full load should be safe, you may still need an aftermarket HS/F. You're current temps seem pretty damn good with the stock cooler. Mine is running in the mid 40's @ 2.5, but it is in a Shuttle (airflow = bad, ICE cooler = good). Your temps will rise quickest with vcore bumps, keep your vcore as low as you can while still maintaining stability (I recommend a 24h prime95 test).

The stock intel HS/F is indeed very loud at full speed, whether you should keep smart fan disabled is up to you and your usage (see above). I would suggest getting it stable at a good temp with it disabled, and then enable it and see what your temps do under your normal usage. Worst case pick up the TR Ultima-90 and a Scythe PWM 92mm fan. This will keep the temps low even with smart fan enabled. It's what I used on my E8400@3.8ghtz and my Q6600@2.7ghtz (the quad is a little warm for it, I'm moving to a bigger HS/F for the quad). The biggest issue with smartfan is that the fan will never reach full RPM, even when the cpu is pretty damn warm it stays roughly 5-10% below the max compared to running it with smartfan disabled.

 
I think I forgot to mention I am using a Xigmatec cooler and fan. I don't fold and only game about 10 % of the time the PC is on. My temps sound good right now. Probably because the PC is about 5 feet from an air conditioner. ;) I'll download Prime95 and try it.

Thanks for the help.
 
Yeah, give prime a spin - only real way to know if the OC is stable is to stress it for long periods of time.

With the Xig you should be able able leave it on PWM (smartfan) mode up to ~3.0ghtz without any problems. Though again, I would recommend validating a good stable OC before enabling it. If it starts to fail after that you can be pretty sure it is temp related.

 
Many of these CPU's have a FSB wall near 400-420 but that would mean you do a 100% OC (if ya keep ya multi at stock ofcourse) My CPU didn't do much with added voltage...

I did E2140@3.2Ghz

E2140.JPG
 
Well I guess everything isn't working as I thought. Even now if I restart my PC I get the Gigabyte start screen then my PC shuts off and restarts with all the settings back to default. I got the processor up to 3ghz with it 33C at idle and 52C at load in Prime95. Everything works fine. Turn my PC off and back on and everything is reset to default. This is starting to piss me off. I have the memory multlipler set to 2 the FSB to 300. This even happens if I try to overclock the PC to 2.1ghz. Anything over stock and it resets it after reboot. Any ideas?
 
Try clearing your CMOS and starting again.
It may be possible you buggered something in you BIOS and it doesnt like you.

Also, if possible, try boosting all chipset voltages +0.1 (or 0.01... whatever your smallest increment is) to take those out of the equation.
 
Trying to think back to the DS3L bios... Try pushing the FSB/NB/Memory controller (should be one of those) up 0.1, after you reboot go into the bios and check the various voltages (should be system health screen if I remember correctly). Make sure your dram voltage is within a good range for your ram... If your ram is set @ 2 it should be running @ ddr2/600 speed, so I wouldn't put it above 1.9v

Also, disable the GB start screen so you can see anything it might be saying prior to restarting...

 
...Turn my PC off and back on and everything is reset to default. This is starting to piss me off. I have the memory multlipler set to 2 the FSB to 300. This even happens if I try to overclock the PC to 2.1ghz. Anything over stock and it resets it after reboot. Any ideas?

That is typical for the DS3L, it's called the "stupid mode" (you can not overclock or underclock even 1 MHz !!!).
The most common solution for that problem is to clear CMOS in the proper way, disable the USB Storage Detect function in BIOS and don't change the memory timings. If you search among several forums, you'll find a lot of similar issues with the DS3L. :(
 
Ok I'll try that tonight. How often do I have to clear the CMOS? Just this one time? And disable USB checking. I do have a USB drive hooked up. And here I thought this was the best budget motherboard for this sort of thing. :mad:
 
That is typical for the DS3L, it's called the "stupid mode" (you can not overclock or underclock even 1 MHz !!!).
The most common solution for that problem is to clear CMOS in the proper way, disable the USB Storage Detect function in BIOS and don't change the memory timings. If you search among several forums, you'll find a lot of similar issues with the DS3L. :(

All those links you posted were for the P35 board. The OP has the newer EP35 version.
I don't believe there is that much different between the two besides extra energy saving options but the available BIOS's for each board is definitely different.
 
Well I disconnected my My Book USB drive and disabled the USB drive detection in the bios. Set everything up for 3ghz and rebooted. So far so good. I rebooted 3 times and shut down and started 3 times. Then I hooked up my drive and did the same. It's never reset the bios yet so far. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 
I'm glad I never had this issue with my two rev 2.0 P35 DS3L boards... That would have pissed me off...

Hopefully this fixes your issues. Luck.

 
Well I disconnected my My Book USB drive and disabled the USB drive detection in the bios. Set everything up for 3ghz and rebooted. So far so good. I rebooted 3 times and shut down and started 3 times. Then I hooked up my drive and did the same. It's never reset the bios yet so far. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
You were lucky, because disabling the USB storage detection was not always the solution for all people.
I'm glad to see that your problem it's solved. :D
 
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