Canon 7D settings for Landscape and Portrait Photography, Ideas, and Purchase Input

[ComputerGeek]

Hello, guys someone lent me a Canon 7d and a 18-135 kit lens (Not the best, but beggars can't be choosers), I really wish I could have borrowed his 11-16 Tokina but I didn't get that.

I also have a Nikon d70 with a 70-210mm f/4-5.6 and a 50mm f/1.8. I bought a Adapter from the Nikon mount to the Canon as well. I have a Manfrotto ball head tripod and Two folding reflectors. I also just bought a cheap eBay intervalometer.


I plan on buying a nd filter and a CLP for the 18-135 lens I was looking at these,
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/116781-REG/Hoya_A67CRPL_67mm_Circular_Polarizer_HMC.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/752945-REG/B_W_1066184_67mm_110_Solid_Neutral.html
Just wondering if you guys have any other suggestions on things to get? Other than a lens, its just not in the budget, unless its wide cheap under 200 and decent.

Now for the Questions,
Can someone give me some the different settings they use for landscape and Portraits, I will be shooting RAW possibly with JPEG's. I usually do all Manual, otherwise Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority in some cases, like when I am at a event and I have to interact and I am feeling lazy. Anyway, I was wondering if someone could tell me the more in depth custom settings they use, if they use HTP or keep it turned off. the AF mode they use, ect. I know the basic settings I just want the more advanced ones. Also, which settings carry into RAW? I know the Picture styles don't.

Timelapses, If you could suggest any guides that you have found helpful on this that would be great. Also, if someone could explain how you deal with a sun rise and the changing light that would be great. Do you shoot full size? Have you ever tried RAW? Do you just shoot a frame every one second and Toss the Frames that you don't need?

ISO Should I use 200 for all the landscapes? I read that 100 was a digital reduction of 200 and not native. Should I use 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, for Low Light and High Shutter and Video or should I use a different set?

And If you guys have any shots that you find interesting, that I might be able to try throw they up here.

Sorry for the long list. Thanks!

 

[SilverMK3]

Now for the Questions,
Can someone give me some the different settings they use for landscape and Portraits, I will be shooting RAW possibly with JPEG's. I usually do all Manual, otherwise Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority in some cases, like when I am at a event and I have to interact and I am feeling lazy. Anyway, I was wondering if someone could tell me the more in depth custom settings they use, if they use HTP or keep it turned off. the AF mode they use, ect. I know the basic settings I just want the more advanced ones. Also, which settings carry into RAW? I know the Picture styles don't.

I shoot RAW without jpeg - what's the point of doubling up when you can make a jpeg in your conversion software or in camera as needed? I leave HTP turned off but enable the blinking warnings. I'm a fan of Spot AF and using the joystick to set my AF point, it's the most accurate and the AF squares are smallest that way. Most of the settings will carry into your raw file, depending on your conversion software; but being a raw file, they're adjustable after the fact.

ISO Should I use 200 for all the landscapes? I read that 100 was a digital reduction of 200 and not native. Should I use 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, for Low Light and High Shutter and Video or should I use a different set?

The native ISO on most Canon bodies seems to be multiples of 160. They'll give the cleanest files.

 

[ComputerGeek]

I shoot RAW without jpeg - what's the point of doubling up when you can make a jpeg in your conversion software or in camera as needed? I leave HTP turned off but enable the blinking warnings. I'm a fan of Spot AF and using the joystick to set my AF point, it's the most accurate and the AF squares are smallest that way. Most of the settings will carry into your raw file, depending on your conversion software; but being a raw file, they're adjustable after the fact.


The native ISO on most Canon bodies seems to be multiples of 160. They'll give the cleanest files.

What are the blinking warnings? Shooting just RAW does make sense, I might shoot both In case I don't feel like retouching them all and for a reference Image.

Also I read here, http://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/2009/10/10/canon-7d-noise-and-iso-test/ that 160, 320, ect, are digital conversions of the native iso, The y said that
The effect of using ISO 320 is the very same as using ISO 400 with +1/3 EV bias. Of course the higher exposure leads to lower noise – but it leads to clipping sooner.

And someone else gave this explanation.

I received raw files targeted towards this issue and created a demonstration with detailed explanation; see http://www.cryptobola.com/PhotoBola/Canon7D_ISO.htm

The result is in short:

- the 7D’s hardware does not support the fractional ISOs; they are created by underexposing the previous lower ISO respectively overexposing the following higher full-stop ISO,

- the +1/3 EV ISO steps, like 125, 250 reduce the dynamic range by 1/3 EV,

- the -1/3 EV ISO steps, like 160, 320 cause an “overmetering” by 1/3 EV, which may cause clipping,

- the ISO steps 100 and 125 cause about 1/4 EV higher exposure than it should be: ISO 100 is rather 119, thus the metering for ISO 100 may cause clipping.

Someone also gave this description.

Now, let’s look at how fractional iso is achieved. Taking all the complexities out of the way, basically operation is reduced to sensor gain set to “native” gain mode with bias applied. So , at let’s say iso160, what is actually happening is that camera is recording at iso200 with -1/3 stop bias applied. That results in clipping of the highlights, so when color correction filter (e.g. curves) is applied to bring out visible noise pattern, the overall image appears to be cleaner. In other words, noise is there, but due to highlights clipping the final image in turn appears clearer.

In more detail… There are 19 photos above that show noise levels similar to tests in those videos. These are the values represented (low to high)
100-125-160-200-250-320-400-500-640-800-1000-1250-1600-2000-2500-3200-4000-5000-6400

these are all steps of one-third stop (1/3EV). Agreed? Good.
Now, let’s pick out “base reference” iso.
100 – 200 – 400 – 800 – 1600 – 3200 – 6400
these are all steps of one stop (0 EV) Agreed? Good.

next, let’s get a bit into more detail of how image is actually recorded (but not too complex). There are actually 2 stages that take place:
1. Analog Exposure (that’s physical light)
2. Digital Exposure (converting analog system to bits for image recording).
Agreed? Good.

Here’s why some images are clearer than others.
Fractional ISO is achieved in two ways:
1. Underexpose analog + Overexpose digital. Result: lose shadow detail (dynamic range)
2. Overexpose analog + Underexpose digital. Result: clipping of highlights

When we examine each image sample one by one, we can see that in case #1 we get more grain than base iso. In case #2 we get low noise picture. Of course, image degrades in higher iso ranges, but relatively we can see significant noise reduction in case#2. Here they are one by one (note, these are all 1/3EV – use website link for reference to images)
iso100 – base iso
iso125 – shot at 100, analog -1/3; digital +1/3 – increased noise/lost shadow
iso160 – shot at 200, analog +1/3; digital -1/3 – lower noise/highlight clip

iso200 – base iso
iso250 – shot at 200, analog -1/3; digital +1/3 – increased noise/lost shadow
iso320 – shot at 200, analog +1/3; digital -1/3 – lower noise/highlight clip

iso400 – base iso
iso500 – shot at 400, analog -1/3; digital +1/3 – increased noise/lost shadow
iso640 – shot at 800, analog +1/3; digital -1/3 – lower noise/highlight clip

iso800 – base iso
iso1000 – shot at800, analog -1/3; digital +1/3 – increased noise/lost shadow
iso1250 – shot at 1600, analog +1/3; digital -1/3 – lower noise/highlight clip

iso1600 – base iso
iso2000 – shot at1600, analog -1/3; digital +1/3 – increased noise/lost shadow
iso2500 – shot at 3200, analog +1/3; digital -1/3 – lower noise/highlight clip

iso3200 – base iso
iso4000 – shot at 3200, analog -1/3; digital +1/3 – increased noise/lost shadow
iso5000 – shot at 6400, analog +1/3; digital -1/3 – lower noise/highlight clip

mystery solved.

Not sure what I should do.

Now if I am shooting RAW does this matter? Won't the ISO be calculated inside Lightroom? Or am I not thinking correct?

Do you know if 100 or 200 iso or 160 is better for landscapes?

Also, what is the highest ISO you go to?

 

[SilverMK3]

Yup, there's a big debate about interpolated ISOs vs. native ISOs. The fact is that there are many comparisons showing that the multiples of 160 are the cleanest as far as luminance noise goes. Regardless of how we arrive to them, they look cleanest straight out of the camera. By selecting one of these ISO's you are essential exposing to the right by 1/3rd of a stop. More information is stored in the highlights than in the shadows of a file, meaning it's easier to recover highlights than it is to lift shadows.

Choose whatever ISO best suits your exposure parameters. The difference between them is negligible. If you're shooting in JPEG and not post processing anyway, you're not going to see any difference at all.

Blinking warnings are the Highlight Alert setting (blue triangle, two dots). It'll blink to black wherever you've clipped your highlights.

 

[ComputerGeek]

OK, maybe I am over-thinking it. Something you said confused me though, I have always been told that you can't get detail back out of the highlight areas if the white clips, however, you can get detail out of the shadows, so it is better to underexpose than overexpose. Is that not correct?

If I am shooting RAW does ISO matter? Won't the ISO be calculated inside Lightroom? Or am I not thinking correct?

Also, what is the highest ISO you go to?

Do you use picture styles?

 

[ComputerGeek]

Also, if someone wants to answer these, doesn't have to be SilverMK3, you have been very helpful.

Do you have Lens Peripheral Illumination Correct Enabled?

Where do you have Auto Lighting Optimizer? And what does it do?

What do you use for the Color Space?

What AF mode do you use?

Do you have Exposure Simulation On?

What do you have Silent Shooting set to?

Do you have Long Exp. noise reduction Enabled?

What do you high ISO speed noise reduction set to?


And if someone might be able to go Over the settings in the Custom Section.

 

[patric]

I'm just going to reply within the quoted text. Hope this helps!

Also, if someone wants to answer these, doesn't have to be SilverMK3, you have been very helpful.

Do you have Lens Peripheral Illumination Correct Enabled?

I never enable this as I just let Lightroom take care of it.

Where do you have Auto Lighting Optimizer? And what does it do?

I don't use this either and am not really sure what it does. Enabling this does reduce the number of frames I can shoot in a burst so I leave it off.

What do you use for the Color Space?

sRGB, although if you shoot in RAW it doesn't matter. You don't need to worry about the color space until you export your images for print or viewing. sRGB is the default for images on the internet though.

What AF mode do you use?

For the 7D I tend to use spot, single point, and single point expansion and use the joystick to select the point I want. Spot is the most accurate, but it's not always the fastest. Single point for tracking something against a busy background, and expansion for something like a bird in flight against a blue sky. I don't use the zones or all 19 points enabled as Canon cameras tend to just pick the closest high contrast subject to focus on, even if it's not your intended target

Do you have Exposure Simulation On?

Usually, yes. Especially when using a 10 stop ND filter. If the light is still bright enough you can still recompose your shots to some extent using liveview. The only time I tend to turn it off is when I'm trying to get critical focus using liveview on a night scene and exposure simulation makes the image on the screen too dark.

What do you have Silent Shooting set to?

On the 7D, silent shooting only works in liveview. It might be possible that it'll reduce camera shake when you take pictures, especially when using a remote shutter release, but I haven't really noticed anything.

Do you have Long Exp. noise reduction Enabled?

If I'm shooting some night shots I tend to keep it enabled until I get frustrated that it doubles the length of time it takes to take a picture, turning a 30 second exposure into a 1 minute one.

What do you high ISO speed noise reduction set to?

I leave it off. Lightroom has pretty good noise reduction algorithms and I also use Imagenomics Noiseware when I shoot at really high ISOs.


And if someone might be able to go Over the settings in the Custom Section.

There are a ton of custom settings. Anything specific you're interested in?

 

[SilverMK3]

OK, maybe I am over-thinking it. Something you said confused me though, I have always been told that you can't get detail back out of the highlight areas if the white clips, however, you can get detail out of the shadows, so it is better to underexpose than overexpose. Is that not correct?

If I am shooting RAW does ISO matter? Won't the ISO be calculated inside Lightroom? Or am I not thinking correct?

Also, what is the highest ISO you go to?

Do you use picture styles?

Right, the key is to make sure you don't clip in either direction (highlights or shadows). Use the clipping warnings in camera or look at your histogram to make sure none of it spikes past the top of the chart or is trimmed off either the left or right edges. That being said, exposing to the right (ETTR) is a common practice used to keep the majority of the information towards the right of the histogram, giving you the largest bit depth and most usable information. Pulling details from shadows produces more noise than recovering highlights.

Choosing the correct ISO in camera is important. Use the lowest ISO possible, as it'll give you the least noise and most dynamic range from your sensor. It is part of the exposure triangle, however, so you'll need to set your shutter speed and aperture accordingly. Your RAW converter has no impact on the ISO the image was originally shot with.

Also, if someone wants to answer these, doesn't have to be SilverMK3, you have been very helpful.

Do you have Lens Peripheral Illumination Correct Enabled?
I leave mine disabled, I like lens vignetting and tend to add a little in post anyway. If I want to remove it, it's just a checkbox in lightroom

Where do you have Auto Lighting Optimizer? And what does it do?
I leave the lighting optimizer off. It's automatically lifts shadows and recovers highlights in an attempt to try to compress the dynamic range of the image for you. I'd rather do this myself.

What do you use for the Color Space?
I use AdobeRGB because it is a larger color space than sRGB. I do my own printing, so I want the largest color gamut possible. When I export to jpeg, I convert to sRGB for web-sharing.

What AF mode do you use?
same as patric above

Do you have Exposure Simulation On?
Yes. It gives you a preview of what your exposure will look like in live view.

What do you have Silent Shooting set to?
disabled

Do you have Long Exp. noise reduction Enabled?
no

What do you high ISO speed noise reduction set to?
I do my noise reductin in post

And if someone might be able to go Over the settings in the Custom Section.
It's all in your manual

To be honest, it really does sound like you are over-thinking the technical nuances of the camera before really getting comfortable with your workflow and understanding the more important aspects. Just get out there and use it, see what settings work for YOUR style and which ones don't.

 

[UnknownSouljer]

To be honest, it really does sound like you are over-thinking the technical nuances of the camera before really getting comfortable with your workflow and understanding the more important aspects. Just get out there and use it, see what settings work for YOUR style and which ones don't.

I agree with this statement by SilverMK3. It's impossible to know everything technically out of the gate. You're going to have to experiment and learn.

 

[patric]

The 2 biggest challenges I found with the 7D are picking the appropriate AF mode for what you're shooting and if you're using higher ISO's (1600-6400) it's best from a noise perspective to overexpose by about 1/3 of a stop or so and bring it back down in post. It helps a lot with noise in the shadows which to me is the 7D's biggest weakness.